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saxfiend
Sep 3, 2005, 1:08 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Goldenlocks at the Tennessee Wall. Says it a 5.8+ but it starts with like a v3 start and the top gets pumpy. That's the first route I thought of when I saw this thread. I've been told the start used to be easier before trail erosion lowered the ground under it. I'm really surprised it wasn't re-rated in the new Dixie Cragger. JL Nope, it's still 5.8+. That start is nowhere near V3, really. Not even a good boulder problem. The top is only difficult if you can't use your hands and feet in a crack. Go try the start of Puppy Ride, 5.9 only because of the first 2 moves, and still not hard, but great fun.
I've heard good things about Puppy Ride too. I miss T-Wall!
JL
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jelliott
Sep 3, 2005, 1:15 AM
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In reply to: The first 10 feet don't count at J Tree :wink:
DOH!! How could I forget that... well then biggest sand bag would be... uh dunno since I haven't had one and most of JTree doesn't count.... hmm nothing but the runouts in Tuolumne but those aren't sandbagged just bold right? :D :D :wink:
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csgambill
Sep 3, 2005, 2:38 AM
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Kudamundai Crack at Devil's Lake WI, Trad. I think it's rated 5.7 But mabye I just got off route. The guy who seconded me said he had done .10's the day before that were easier.
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426
Sep 3, 2005, 3:08 AM
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In reply to: How about the right side of the Remnant in the valley? But maybe 5.7 chimney has a different meaning there.
No, you're dead on...
Definitely a hideous sandbag. I led (can't fall off the crux or you'll die) and both my partners, solid 9/10- climbers couldn't TR it. You could get a KB in at the crux if you brought a hammer and pins, but who does that?
The left side (10b) felt easier IMO.
Sweet Jesus (5.9+, Tuolumne)...old school runs on mank. :evil:
The pitch above the Hollow Flake, Salathe Wall (.7 in the old guide) nearly killed me as well. I expended all my psyche on the HF and wasn't prepared to battle (again).
Also, the Big Grunt (10- in the So Cal guide) at Woodson. Features a roof slot entrance with a double decker fall 15'-20' onto blacktop. Then a 50' horizontal traverse. Commiting. (Hell, most routes at woodson are committing 'bags, for that matter). :shock:
Anyone notice that old school '10d' bouldering slabs are graded up to V5 or so these days?
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lofstromc
Sep 3, 2005, 3:11 AM
Post #30 of 68
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5.4 -5.7? I have a hard time rating that.
A (bad ass) said 5-10 - 5.12, I have hard a hard time rating that.
Just climb!
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kman
Sep 3, 2005, 3:52 AM
Post #31 of 68
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fivetendude tried convincing me that a .10c was actually a .6 ... :roll:
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 3, 2005, 6:04 PM
Post #32 of 68
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In reply to: In reply to: Worst sandbag I ever climbed was Diaganol (5.8+) at Crow Hill in MA. 5.8+ my ars! If someone told me it was 5.10+, I would have believed them. Josh Are you sure that you didn't do Cro Magnon? Diagnol is considerably easier than Cro Magnon, which is only 5.10. Was it wet when you did it?
No, every climb is stiff at Crow Hill. Cro-mag is sandbagged also, but I believe the rating is a little closer than Diaganol. Diagnanol is not 10+, but it's not 8+ either. Most of the climbs were put up when 5.10 was the hardest grade.
Josh
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rufusandcompany
Sep 3, 2005, 6:21 PM
Post #33 of 68
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Worst sandbag I ever climbed was Diaganol (5.8+) at Crow Hill in MA. 5.8+ my ars! If someone told me it was 5.10+, I would have believed them. Josh Are you sure that you didn't do Cro Magnon? Diagnol is considerably easier than Cro Magnon, which is only 5.10. Was it wet when you did it? No, every climb is stiff at Crow Hill. Cro-mag is sandbagged also, but I believe the rating is a little closer than Diaganol. Diagonal is not 10+, but it's not 8+ either. Most of the climbs were put up when 5.10 was the hardest grade. Josh
I think that your comment - no offense to you - is a product of modern sport climbing ratings. I did all of those routes almost twenty-five years ago, and I thought that they were on par with most trad routes in the country - especially routes in The Valley. Diagonal would probably be rated 5.7 at Seneca.
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mr-pink
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Sep 3, 2005, 6:35 PM
Post #34 of 68
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I had several,
like I climbed a route, sportclimb, I think: it should be around 5.10b, I ask someone: the tags say it's only 5.6.
I was like: wtf, but now the changed the tags, and it is 5.10c
On the same crag: I pick a route, the tags reads: 5.6, no problem I think.
I fell, I seriously taught something was wrong with me.
It was a 5.12, and I don't climb 5.12's outdoor.
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 3, 2005, 6:44 PM
Post #35 of 68
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Worst sandbag I ever climbed was Diaganol (5.8+) at Crow Hill in MA. 5.8+ my ars! If someone told me it was 5.10+, I would have believed them. Josh Are you sure that you didn't do Cro Magnon? Diagnol is considerably easier than Cro Magnon, which is only 5.10. Was it wet when you did it? No, every climb is stiff at Crow Hill. Cro-mag is sandbagged also, but I believe the rating is a little closer than Diaganol. Diagonal is not 10+, but it's not 8+ either. Most of the climbs were put up when 5.10 was the hardest grade. Josh I think that your comment - no offense to you - is a product of modern sport climbing ratings. I did all of those routes almost twenty-five years ago, and I thought that they were on par with most trad routes in the country - especially routes in The Valley. Diagonal would probably be rated 5.7 at Seneca.
You could be right, but I was not thinking of sport climbing when I made the comment. In my limited trad climbing career, I was comparing the rating to other areas I have climbed at including North Conway, Franconia Notch, Acadia and the Gunks. Only the Gunks seemed as stiff. I am not complaining, mind you, just making a comparison. It was a fun climb and I can't wait to get back on it to do it clean. I have only led up to 5.10a and i felt that Diaganol was the tougest one I have done.
Josh
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rufusandcompany
Sep 3, 2005, 7:00 PM
Post #36 of 68
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In reply to: You could be right, but I was not thinking of sport climbing when I made the comment. In my limited trad climbing career, I was comparing the rating to other areas I have climbed at including North Conway, Franconia Notch, Acadia and the Gunks. Only the Gunks seemed as stiff. I am not complaining, mind you, just making a comparison. It was a fun climb and I can't wait to get back on it to do it clean. I have only led up to 5.10a and i felt that Diaganol was the tougest one I have done. Josh
It's possible that you weren't used to that type of gritstone. It tends to hold dirt and moisture. If my memory serves me correctly, I thought Diagonal was straight 5.8, Cro Magnon 10b, and Jane 11b. I was a 5.11 climber when I did them, and I onsighted all of them. I free soloed Diagonal four times, so I don't remember it being insecure. I would compare the difficulty to Bonnie's Roof.
Wow. talking about these climbs brings back memories. Those were great days. I sometimes miss N.E. climbing. Those areas have rich historical roots. If you haven't already been there, you should check out under the overpass in Kenmore Square - just east of the BU Bookstore. Those granite walls are great for practicing face technique. We didn't have crash pads back then, so the falls were more serious, but pads would make the falls casual.
Cheers,
KC
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kappydane
Sep 3, 2005, 7:50 PM
Post #37 of 68
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It looks like the 1975 Eldorado Guide by Pat Ament lists a LOT of sandbags. I didn't know I was climbing so well. Below are some examples limited to some of the routes I did back then.
1975 Now
Anthill Direct 5.7or5.8 5.9S
T2 5.9 5.11a
Grand Giraffe 5.9 5.10a
Wind Ridge 5.6 5.7
Redgard 5.7 5.8+S
Edited since columns didn't format. first grade is '75, second is now.
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rufusandcompany
Sep 3, 2005, 8:06 PM
Post #38 of 68
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In reply to: It looks like the 1975 Eldorado Guide by Pat Ament lists a LOT of sandbags. I didn't know I was climbing so well. Below are some examples limited to some of the routes I did back then. 1975 Now Anthill Direct 5.7or5.8 5.9S T2 5.9 5.11a Grand Giraffe 5.9 5.10a Wind Ridge 5.6 5.7 Redgard 5.7 5.8+S Edited since columns didn't format. first grade is '75, second is now.
I would rate them as follows:
Anthill Direct 5.8
T2 5.10 I think a hold broke since the original rating.
Grand Giraffe 5.9
Wind Ridge 5.6. My students and clients had less trouble with this route, than on Calypso.
Redgaurd 5.6/7
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snoopy138
Sep 3, 2005, 8:23 PM
Post #39 of 68
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In reply to: you should check out under the overpass in Kenmore Square - just east of the BU Bookstore. Those granite walls are great for practicing face technique. We didn't have crash pads back then, so the falls were more serious, but pads would make the falls casual. Cheers, KC
Those were actually the only time I've really felt sandbagged on a climb (and I'm comparing these to Josh, Tahquitz, and a few Gunks climbs). I only climbed on the wall with the lone 5.7 (Warmup), the Boston guide listed a 5.13 on the other wall ... trying the 5.9s, I couldn't fathom what a 5.13 on those walls must look like.
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rufusandcompany
Sep 3, 2005, 8:39 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: you should check out under the overpass in Kenmore Square - just east of the BU Bookstore. Those granite walls are great for practicing face technique. We didn't have crash pads back then, so the falls were more serious, but pads would make the falls casual. Cheers, KC Those were actually the only time I've really felt sandbagged on a climb (and I'm comparing these to Josh, Tahquitz, and a few Gunks climbs). I only climbed on the wall with the lone 5.7 (Warmup), the Boston guide listed a 5.13 on the other wall ... trying the 5.9s, I couldn't fathom what a 5.13 on those walls must look like.
You are absolutely correct. If you are solid on these problems, you should be able to face climb anywhere. I have done every problem on those two walls, and they never felt easy. I did the hard problem after several years out west, and it still felt stiff - very fingery. That bridge is a hidden gem. It has some of the most challenging climbing in the Boston area.
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alpinerock
Sep 5, 2005, 2:33 AM
Post #41 of 68
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Humans are incapable of climbing above 5.9! anything i put up is graded accordingly!!!
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masterjuggler41
Sep 5, 2005, 3:42 AM
Post #42 of 68
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Circus Trick at Big Bend outside of Moab, Utah. It is listed as V4, but it is closer to V6. I have been told that most of Big Bend is sandbagged, but it is consistant within itself.
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cosmiccragsman
Sep 5, 2005, 4:00 AM
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Captain Kronos on the Brown Wall in the Real Hidden Valley is a pretty good sandbag. More of a sandbag I think, than Doublecross.
cosmiccragsman
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builttospill
Sep 6, 2005, 6:25 AM
Post #44 of 68
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Chicago Overhang in Rock Canyon, in Provo Utah. 5.8? I've climbed 5.9 and 5.10a on lead and I couldn't get up this thing top-roped. Overhung (which makes it tough for me)....but still. No way is that 5.8.
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t-dog
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Sep 6, 2005, 6:47 AM
Post #45 of 68
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In reply to: One of my first leads at J Tree originaly described in the Wolfe book as a "short beginers route" Damper 5.5 (Now 5.9, and that is a fair rating!)
People seem to confuse rating inacurracy with sandbagging.
Not the same thing IMO, a climb that is rated 5.6 but is really 5.7 is probably incorrectly rated (i.e. a 5.6 leader will probably still be able to make it up the 5.7). As our tradster friend pointed out above, to see a real sandbag in action, put a 5.5 leader on Damper, and enjoy the show, for that would be a real sandbag and I've got money the 5.5 leader is not only not going to make it to the top, but most likely get pretty bloody in the process.
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c22
Sep 6, 2005, 7:02 AM
Post #46 of 68
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In reply to: Woodson is home of the sandbag. 5.11c covers the spectrum up to and including routes with V5-V6 cruxes.
yup... was there 4 hours ago. and just to put it out there, 20 bucks to anyone who will show me how to finish lie detector. (and by show me, I mean do it). 50 bucks if your from out of state.
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ajkclay
Sep 6, 2005, 12:38 PM
Post #47 of 68
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In reply to: Woodson is home of the sandbag. 5.11c covers the spectrum up to and including routes with V5-V6 cruxes.
I see your Woodson, and raise you Moonarie...
there's virtually a different grading system there; someone will recommend a route, and then tell you the grade, (say 18) and then add, but that's a Moonarie 18, meaning you need to add anywhere between 2 to 4 grades.
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gunksgoer
Sep 6, 2005, 2:22 PM
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Any gunks route done before 1980
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lofstromc
Sep 7, 2005, 1:08 AM
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AKA 59er, is my nemesis at Mt. Rubidoux, Riverside, CA.
I've done harder routes and boulder problems there, but that @#$! problem spits me off all the time. :(
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cracknut
Sep 7, 2005, 2:11 AM
Post #50 of 68
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Primak's Suprise at Devil's Lake
Rating: 5.?
Description:"To rate this climb would ruin the suprise."
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