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majid_sabet
Dec 4, 2006, 10:12 PM
Post #26 of 42
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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can you email me your video, let me take a look at it.
Thanks
Majid_sabet@hotmail.com
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drfelatio
Dec 4, 2006, 11:22 PM
Post #28 of 42
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Registered: Sep 16, 2004
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What on God's green earth was that?!?!!??
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feanor007
Dec 4, 2006, 11:47 PM
Post #29 of 42
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cam wrote: deadhorse wrote: I realize that this WAS a stupid mistake- I was the belayer here, not the climber. Do not for one second think that being the belayer relieves any responsability from your shoulders. As the belayer, its YOUR JOB to see things that the leader misses. Sometimes the excitment or anxiety of a lead can distract from the task at hand. You are your partner's reality check and vice versa. Don't ever forget that.
i wish i had trophies today.
also, i didn't think you could get off route in sport climbs, if you can clip the bolt i think that's pretty strong evidence your on a route. maybe not the one you expected but a route
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phillygoat
Dec 5, 2006, 12:29 AM
Post #30 of 42
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Registered: May 22, 2004
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bigfatrock wrote: You don't have to be off route for this to happen. This past weekend my partner was just above his bolt and decided to take, it was a very shoft fall but was enough to flip him upside down. Somehow he flipped back upright before any part of his body hit rock. He was lucky as hell. It can happen to anybody.
I hope to god this is a troll.
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tradrenn
Dec 5, 2006, 12:37 AM
Post #31 of 42
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
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We all make stupid mistakes that's what makes us humans. I hope that you will learn from your bad experience and don't let it happend again. In future consider bailing off.
A little advise:
Keep in mind that almost every route has a NO FALL ZONE.
Happy Climbing ( in future )
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deadhorse
Dec 5, 2006, 8:43 AM
Post #32 of 42
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Registered: Jun 26, 2006
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yeah sorry about the vid link- I'm re editing it for better compression. Its tricky to keep vid quality high while under their set limit of 100MB. Anyways- in response to some of these-
"As a belayer I'm not relieved of any responsibilty"
To which I answer- exactly, which is why I was so upset about this. In this instance, I couldn't be the lookout guy, he'd been to this crag before and I hadn't. We had a guidebook and it was very vague abot where the ttwo climbs diverge.
"The bolt wasn't off route the climber was"
No, sorry, the bolt was off route. This is the fork where the routes diverge.
As for the fall- Like I mentioned earlier- It wasn't a true fall, it was a drop- which made it's result ever more shocking. He got stuck and wanted to hangdog, and let go. In the full res video it's more clear, but he falls pretty much with an upright body position, and it flips him as soon as he swings. That's happened to me before also, on a TR route where it meandered real far from below the anchor.
I should have a re-edited version up soon. And i really want to make it clear, that this is NOT for shock value. I want to learn as much as is possible about why this happened and how to prevent it. Even knowing what I know now, if I found myself in the same position belaying him, and he was exactly where he was (off-bolt and all) I don't know what I would do differently- At that point I suppose it was too late. But maybe there is a belay technique that would have helped here?
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deadhorse
Dec 5, 2006, 8:53 AM
Post #33 of 42
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Registered: Jun 26, 2006
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Yeah just a clarification for you gunksgoer on that clip-
The video intro is a clip that is completely unrelated, that is not the climber, and he doesn't have a fat lip (he does, have big lips though?). It got in there with bad editing, and bad editing alone.
He did not hit his face, like I said, the back of his head, and his back. Thank god.
I realize your resent for what you take to be lightheartedness, but how much of that is directed at that kid's narration that shot the video? I'm not even in it, and the climber was obviously stirred. He thought he was in shock, and we left early. Luckily, he has been able to get back on the walls, which I think is admirable regardless of whether or not it was his mistake which led to this accident.
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hyhuu
Dec 5, 2006, 2:19 PM
Post #34 of 42
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
Posts: 492
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deadhorse wrote: y "The bolt wasn't off route the climber was" No, sorry, the bolt was off route. This is the fork where the routes diverge.
Your OP stated otherwise "It is clear in restrospect that bolt wasn't for him (the rope took a 90 degree turn at it.)"
Just curious, which route is that and no I haven't seen the video.
hyhuu
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jt512
Dec 5, 2006, 3:56 PM
Post #35 of 42
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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bigfatrock wrote: You don't have to be off route for this to happen. This past weekend my partner was just above his bolt and decided to take...
Leader (above his bolt): TAKE! DURR!
Belayer (pulling leader off his stance): Gotcha Dood! DURR!
Jay
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jt512
Dec 5, 2006, 4:09 PM
Post #36 of 42
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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To borrow a phrase from aviation: this accident was caused by failure to maintain situational awareness. Think ahead. Know where your next pro is. Assess the risk before committing to the section. See dangers coming. Don't commit to a dangerous section unless you are either confident you can make it through the risk or you know you can reverse the section. In the present case, reversing the traverse before getting too pumped to hang on would have prevented the accident.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Dec 5, 2006, 4:16 PM)
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jt512
Dec 5, 2006, 4:14 PM
Post #37 of 42
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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deadhorse wrote: and the climber was obviously stirred.
Shaken, not stirred -- the climber, that is.
Jay
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alexmac
Dec 5, 2006, 5:58 PM
Post #38 of 42
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Registered: May 23, 2005
Posts: 550
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Okay, I missed the whole video and so sport or trad, traverse and not protecting it ?
No helmet, thats the climbing partners fault for even belaying someone
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sgauss
Dec 5, 2006, 6:11 PM
Post #39 of 42
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Registered: Nov 30, 2006
Posts: 138
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Have y'all noticed you're beating a deadhorse?
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gunksgoer
Dec 5, 2006, 6:18 PM
Post #40 of 42
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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deadhorse wrote: "The bolt wasn't off route the climber was" No, sorry, the bolt was off route. This is the fork where the routes diverge.
I hate to keep ragging on you, but if the bolt was "off route" its completely the climbers fault for clipping it. Some mean off-route bolt didnt clip itself to the rope. The lead climber made an error setting up his protection system.
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deadhorse
Dec 5, 2006, 9:52 PM
Post #41 of 42
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Registered: Jun 26, 2006
Posts: 241
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Absolutely, it was his fault for clipping it, but in terms of hindsight being 20/20 and all, there was really no way to know. It seemed strange that it would take such a hard turn, but the next bolt was obscured from his vision by that lip, and my vision b/c it was 65 ft up. Even when we lowered him it was hard to tell what he should have clipped. The bolt he clipped was about 8 horizontal feet from the bolt he should have used.
In a case like this, I guess you can only do the climb if you have somebody with you that's done it, and knows the bolt sequencing. I'm sure if i'd been up there, and had no knowledge otherwise, I would have made the same mistake.
For those of you not yet seen the video the climb is decompression sickness 5.10b/c
I'll get the re-edited version up soon. (very busy w/ final exams right now)
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caughtinside
Dec 5, 2006, 9:58 PM
Post #42 of 42
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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deadhorse wrote: "The bolt wasn't off route the climber was" No, sorry, the bolt was off route. This is the fork where the routes diverge.
No, the climber was off route. The bolt was on route. The problem was that it was on a DIFFERENT route. your climber left the intended route, by climbing off-route, onto a different route.
You don't hear about these routefinding dilemmas on sport climbs too often... despite the fact that it is common to not always be able to see the next bolt from below (hidden above a bulge, etc.)
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