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ghisino
Dec 11, 2007, 11:54 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249
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I've trained with both training philosophies...
I'd say periodization makes for quicker results but for some reason can easily become too power-focused...at least in my routine, it was 4weeks boulders-3weeks power endurance-2weeks endurance-1rest
I was feeling strong as hell but ended up wasting a lot in endurance climbing...good for boulders, good for short fingery routes...
Last year I pretty much followed the same weekly routine all the time, mixing one endurance session and a campus board/bouldering one...with obvious rest weeks every now and then.
I'd say I'm very happy with my endurance climbing improvent (physical, technical, tactical and mental...).
I din't loose any power...still improved my bouldering results.
I've seen the biggest results in the long run...
...I still experience mild peaking though, but feels like I'm doing between 60% and 80% of my potential...I get 100% when I stop training on plastic and dedicate at least two weeks to outdoor only, it really brings my climbing level up to the limit of my physical possibilities...
I'd say "progressive" is good for those who can take really long holydays or fo people who won't be able to climb a lot outdoors during winter, while having the possibility of doing a lot of cragging during summer...unless you dream about winter projects of course!!!
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jto
Dec 12, 2007, 10:02 AM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
Posts: 272
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about adklimbers training program: do a longer hypertrophy phase. in three weeks you can´t really build up much muscle. a good period could be around 6 weeks.
if you can, do a lot of the workouts bouldering and make the hangboard only a supplement (as I´ve always stated it should be). this will give you the best gains.
if you want to get good results in sport routes too, add a 3-5 week AE phase after the recruitment phase.
you could work your projects according to the phases you´re in:
- hyp: longer problems: 8-20 moves
- rec: short powerful problems 1-5 moves.
- AE: sport routes
this way you have the outdoor element near all the time and you don´t have to waste time in the getting-used-to-real-rock period.
cheers.
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munky
Dec 12, 2007, 12:17 PM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: Apr 26, 2006
Posts: 358
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I saw great results from training and diet restrictions this year. Here it is:
Only drink coffee and whiskey elliminating all excess water in the body to lower weight
Only eat raw ground beef to again shred every bit of fat.
Spend every waking moment not worrying about climbing itself but training for climbing.
I would do hundreds of pull-ups everyday. I would do Frenchies everyday. I would do dead hangs off of everything. One arms, Front levers, core exercises, dynamic training on stairs, trees, playgrounds. Lift weights to strengthen my shoulders and back.
Just to re-iterate the above NO ACTUAL CLIMBING TOOK PLACE.
Does this sound stupid to any of you?
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adklimber
Dec 12, 2007, 2:27 PM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Jan 27, 2006
Posts: 110
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jto wrote: . if you can, do a lot of the workouts bouldering and make the hangboard only a supplement (as I´ve always stated it should be). this will give you the best gains.
Actually JTO, bouldering is exactly what I do throughout hanging and campusing phases. I should of mentioned that.
I would like to train for sport climbing, however, bouldering is convienent for me. I am busy with family, job, and life...so I choose to boulder and get on the rope a lot in the summer (teacher's schedule).
One other thing I did not mention is that I did not have any injuries, not even shoulder or elbow pains, which seem to always happen.
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jto
Dec 12, 2007, 3:43 PM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
Posts: 272
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I´m a teacher too  june, july, ½ august vacation.
you could concentrate on bouldering hard during the nice spring frictions and get on the sport routes in the summer. this it might be good to do alternating 2 month hypertrophy and 1 month recruitment phases for the whole winter to get the bouldering levels sky high.
now you see I´ve left the basic endurance totally off. you could do ARC´s as a warm ups before bouldering. these serve the minimum amount to keep your capillaries worked. if you choose to work more on your redpoints it is more beneficial to get your strength than your endurance up.
this is a muscle cell level issue. anaerobic endurance depends more on the IIa and IIb cells that are worked during the strength and power workouts so they need to be in good condition.
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