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ajkclay
May 16, 2003, 11:01 AM
Post #26 of 38
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Now for those of you who looked at the title from a psychologists point of view, did you notice the hint of expectation that this is a common occurrence by the author?
It is NOT common to deck out.
It is not some rite of passage for climbers. For many, the FIRST IS THE LAST.
Maybe I'm being picky, but for you new climbers out there reading this thread, this is not a cool thing to be able to talk about, but something you should learn from, and try to avoid.
If I had decked out in this situation, my first words to my belay would have been "WHAT THE F**K WERE YOU DOING?!"
And the admission of holding the rope on the wrong side of the belay device would have been more likely to have earnt him a punch in the nose than an assertion of how experienced a belayer he was.
Overlord, I hope your first is your last, climb safe dude.
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ajkclay
May 16, 2003, 11:04 AM
Post #27 of 38
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On reading my above post, it may seem that I am criticising overlord. That is not my intention, I am merely wishing to point out that new climbers should not expect that decking out is a common an acceptable occurence.
(No troll here, move along, nothing to see)
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taino
May 16, 2003, 11:42 AM
Post #28 of 38
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In reply to: grigris should be made for both right and left handed use. i previously used my right hand to feed slack because im righthanded, but with grigri i have to use my left hand. but i got used to it. so did he. believe me. sorry, i cant post a pic because i dont have one.
Forgive this seemingly innocent, naive question, but to use a gri-gri with your left hand can't you just TURN THE DAMNED THING OVER??? I am forced to use that piece of crap belay device when I climb indoors, and use my right hand on the brake line. My climbing partner is left-handed; she clips the gri-gri facing the other direction, and uses her left hand on the brake line.
What's the effing problem? I mean, fock! - the damned thing has got pictograms on it, showing which end of the rope goes to the climber, and which end goes to the brake hand!!! As long as those criteria are met, and you've threaded the rope properly, and you're clipped in properly, it really doesn't matter which hand you use as long as the gri-gri is facing in the correct direction so as not to twist the krab!!!
The one time I was dropped, the new-ish belayer (met for the first time) was using a gri-gri; opened the gate wide, saw me start to come down, and panicked - and froze, with the gate wide open and no hand on the rope. 20'. I focking hate gri-gris.
T
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corpse
May 16, 2003, 1:05 PM
Post #29 of 38
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I should have my 9 yr old get an account here, so she could explain grigri usage!!
I have NO fear of her belaying me in the gyms using a grigri. When I ask her for slack, she STILL doesn't let go of hte brake hand.. the operation is pretty simple, and I can't believe petzl (in the info posted above) suggests what they do..
she will take her feed hand, or whatever ya call it, and use that to initially open the cam lock, then she'll put use a finer or 2 from her brake hand to keep it open - while holding the brake rope - and then take her feed hand and pull the rope through. For her, with her experience, this is good for a little extra slack - 6-12" or so..
I taught her that way becuase her fingers aren't as strong as mine - for me, I simply ensure I have extra slack between the grigri and brake hand, and use 2 fingers to hold the cam lock down (not using the handle) to ensure it doesn't catch - and then feed the rope like normally.
It does get a little trickier when u need to feed out more slack, like for belaying a leader (vs tr'er), however, the first time I belayed someone in a sport climb (in a gym) I used this method and it worked great, and I had the uttmost confidence I would catch em.
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jughead
May 16, 2003, 1:18 PM
Post #30 of 38
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In reply to: I can't believe people call this the fault of a grigri! If he had been holding the lead end of any belay plate on the market, almost exactly the same would have happened! It was completely human error - nothing to do with the mechanics of the grigri.
GRI GRIS ARE CRAP!!! TO MANY MOVING PARTS TO GO WRONG!! :x
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overlord
May 18, 2003, 10:19 AM
Post #31 of 38
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taino: im gonna try your suggestion. in a safe enviroment :P
and for the record: this was my FIRST decking experience and i dont want to try it again. and the first thing an onlooker said to the belayer was "what the hell were you thinking". the firs thing i said was "im okay."
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taino
May 19, 2003, 8:33 PM
Post #32 of 38
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Glad you're okay. :P
I was lucky - I landed on 12" padding, or I probably would have compressed my spine. The belayer was in much worse shape than I.
T
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reborne
May 19, 2003, 8:48 PM
Post #33 of 38
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sounds like you had a pretty god run out last clip at 3 m and going for the next at 5 i have to wunder how close you would have came to the ground even with an imediate lock on any device did you have about 2 m of rope out .... not to be captain obvious but 3 from 4 is -1
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ptone
May 24, 2003, 4:52 AM
Post #34 of 38
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I once got dropped to a scraper cause someone pulled the handle too fast or far on the grigri--I had just clipped the anchors, and then was swinging there 18m down, giving him the evil eye as I arced back by each time.
He didn't want to belay ever again (He was a newbie-friend, now he's great--just TG I didn't deck)
I'm glad you're OK
I'm SURE your belayer will think about this twice, and never do it again. I've never burnt my hands with a rope, but I saw some guy drop from 10m and save himself by grabbing a tr that was hanging there, and his hands were a MESS!!
Some lessons are harder learned than others, hopefully this is the case here.
Grigris don't drop people...
People drop people!
peace
-p
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climbsomething
May 24, 2003, 5:07 AM
Post #35 of 38
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In reply to: Grigris don't drop people... People drop people! |
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enigma
May 24, 2003, 8:59 AM
Post #36 of 38
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Registered: May 19, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: Grigris don't drop people... People drop people! PRAISE THE LORD! somebody who gets it!
The problem is alot of people don't no how to belay with them properly,especially on lead belay.
Thereby increasing the chances of accidents.
Two accidents using GriGri in my gym in a two week period. Both were serious.One ended up falling,sustaining a crushed vertebrate,and the other person a broken arm. (Something to think about :!: Not to be cavalier about, because people feel the gym is safe) :!:
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powrslave
May 24, 2003, 3:09 PM
Post #37 of 38
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Registered: Mar 29, 2003
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If a grigri is used properly like a typical belay device, it is probably better. I only use a grigri when I am climbing with a particular friend of mine that has one.
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arp30
May 24, 2003, 7:07 PM
Post #38 of 38
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I agree. People who do not know how to belay in a gym on a toprope situation should surely not be outside with a gri-gri. If someone can't catch a fall as short as that one THEN THEY shouldn't" BE DOING IT! Especially outside. i'm a big fan of the 'gri because it is so versitile. It's great. But i only switched to it after about three years on an ATC. I still use the ATC once in a while to keep up with the skill. But this was truly human error...not mechanical.
Climb On
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