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guangzhou
Jun 6, 2010, 2:44 AM
Post #51 of 55
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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rangerrob wrote: okay..lots of questions to answer..... First, what the hell would I carrya bolt kit for? I wouldn't even know how to use one if I had it.
When venturing up unknown cliff, a bolt kit could come in useful when the naturAL isn't there. Even routes that look protectable from the ground, are not always so.
When I put up Yellow Brick Road in CHina, the line had all these horizontal cracks. Looked a bit like climbing in the Gunk's from the ground. After 30 feet of hard for me climbing, I got in a very shallow #2 peanut. climbed tot he first horizontal and it was to shallow. Went a another 20 feet before I find a knob the size of my thumb to hang from. Placed a bolt. I was about 70FT up and my last gear, the peanut was 20 feet from the ground.
In reply to: Second, no I wouldn't mind at all if someone climbed a route later and then claimed a first ascent. I would laugh at them maybe, but hey, call it your FA if that makes you feel better. It's not like I am going to collect royalties everytime someone mentions my White Wedding route.
I don't mind either. It's happened to more than one of my routes. The Farside in California comes to mind. My buddy and I put up 20 or so gear routes. According to the guidebook I saw, all of them were later bolted and claimed as first ascent by someone else. Don't really care.
By naming and let others know the routes exist, it might get climbed again.
In reply to: Thirdly, of course I have guidebooks, and use them sometimes. You guys are taking this all too literally. The tone of my earlier post was meant to men my climbing in general has moved towards the purer form of climbing....for my amusement. I find it amusing that people obsess about their "FA's" so much that they have to post about naming obscure routes on obscure cliffs. RR
All cliffs and routes are obscure before climbers go and develop them. Don't believe me, roam areas like Red RIver Gorge. Places like the Traps and Cathedral were obscure before climber started climbing them, naming the routes, and enjoying themselves.
Personally, I like a combination of first ascents and climbing other peoples routes. I can't imagine going on a climbing trip to any state in America with zero beta on where to go for climbs and getting much done. Some cliffs would be found, Cathedral or Yosemite, but other places like red river gorge would never be seen by a climbing driving aimlessly in KY. Same is true if you showed up in Thailand or CHina with no beta.
My routes won't make famous. Some people will go climb them and enjoy themselves, others will never know about them. Either way, I am enjoying myself.
In China, I climbed with a guy I met on this site. He had a few days off while on Business in Guangzhou. We spent two days climbing together. At the end of the second day, we ran into another climber. My partner was chocked to learn I had put 80% of the routes in the area. I was not the one who mentioned it, the other climber had. He was even more shocked to learn the route we were on, a nice five pitch line, was a first ascent. I was going to tell him on the summit, the guy hanging from the belay to our left let him in on it. Oh well.
I name routes because it's convenient, nothing more. 90% say they want to do first ascents, but are not willing to put in the time. Scouting, cleaning,a nd preping a route takes time.
Even trad routes take time.
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airscape
Jun 7, 2010, 8:27 AM
Post #52 of 55
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Registered: Feb 26, 2001
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RyanJames1984 wrote: "is route naming arbitrary?" Is climbing up the small and large rocks strewn over our earth arbitrary?
What does this even mean?
(This post was edited by airscape on Jun 7, 2010, 8:34 AM)
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guangzhou
Jun 8, 2010, 3:32 AM
Post #53 of 55
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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You don't now the definition of arbitrary?
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raerae
Jun 8, 2010, 5:37 AM
Post #54 of 55
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Registered: Sep 24, 2008
Posts: 29
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Themes are awesome. What are some of the best? I like Christian Brothers at Smith. Funny names like Barbeque the Pope, New Testament, Revelations, and Blasphemy.
The Gunks names always have good stories. Well, maybe all places do, but in the Gunks it's in the guide book.
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guangzhou
Jun 8, 2010, 5:51 AM
Post #55 of 55
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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raerae wrote: Themes are awesome. What are some of the best? I like Christian Brothers at Smith. Funny names like Barbeque the Pope, New Testament, Revelations, and Blasphemy. The Gunks names always have good stories. Well, maybe all places do, but in the Gunks it's in the guide book.
Most routes have a story behind the name.
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