Feb 22, 2011, 3:03 PM
Post #51 of 151
(8348 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
Re: [kaizen] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
kaizen wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
gosharks wrote:
Samiam277 wrote:
One could campus their way op a route, or use technique and footwork to do the same route with half the energy
Technically, couldn't campusing require the least amount of work done? If you are strong enough, you won't have to waste energy on putting your feet onto the wall and your core won't have to do any unnecessary work.
Ideally, all your energy would be spent to propel yourself upwards, and campusing is probably the closest to that.
Next time you have the opportunity, try to campus a boulder problem or route. Report back if it is easier than doing it normally.
This problem is actually easier to campus then to use your feet. Mainly because the dolomite is unbelievably slick.
Feb 22, 2011, 9:05 PM
Post #53 of 151
(8293 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 268
Re: [johnwesely] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
johnwesely wrote:
gosharks wrote:
Samiam277 wrote:
One could campus their way op a route, or use technique and footwork to do the same route with half the energy
Technically, couldn't campusing require the least amount of work done? If you are strong enough, you won't have to waste energy on putting your feet onto the wall and your core won't have to do any unnecessary work.
Ideally, all your energy would be spent to propel yourself upwards, and campusing is probably the closest to that.
Next time you have the opportunity, try to campus a boulder problem or route. Report back if it is easier than doing it normally.
Feb 22, 2011, 9:42 PM
Post #54 of 151
(8276 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2011
Posts: 51
Re: [gosharks] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
i have no idea how many pullups a 5.14 climber can do. i climb around a 5.9 and i can't do any pullups i took a 7 year break from climbing, that's why i'm only at a 5.9. back before my break i was around a 5.11c/d and i could do about 10 pullups 1 two finger (each hand) pullup and i could dead hang on one finger (each hand) for over 5 mins. hung from both pinkies for about 20 seconds, but that hurt a lot
Feb 22, 2011, 10:15 PM
Post #55 of 151
(8257 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2009
Posts: 154
Re: [johnwesely] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
johnwesely wrote:
kaizen wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
gosharks wrote:
Samiam277 wrote:
One could campus their way op a route, or use technique and footwork to do the same route with half the energy
Technically, couldn't campusing require the least amount of work done? If you are strong enough, you won't have to waste energy on putting your feet onto the wall and your core won't have to do any unnecessary work.
Ideally, all your energy would be spent to propel yourself upwards, and campusing is probably the closest to that.
Next time you have the opportunity, try to campus a boulder problem or route. Report back if it is easier than doing it normally.
This problem is actually easier to campus then to use your feet. Mainly because the dolomite is unbelievably slick.
Feb 22, 2011, 10:21 PM
Post #56 of 151
(8254 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
Re: [jt512] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
jt512 wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Would 90 degree lock off duration have better implications?
Well, let's see. If you saw a climber hanging on with his arms bent at 90 degrees what would you conclude about his climbing skill?
Jay
I have never ever seen this to a note worthy level, other than in high end compitition boulder comps. And i have a feeling, that their warm ups.. is your max.
Feb 22, 2011, 10:27 PM
Post #57 of 151
(8248 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
Re: [gosharks] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
gosharks wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
gosharks wrote:
Samiam277 wrote:
One could campus their way op a route, or use technique and footwork to do the same route with half the energy
Technically, couldn't campusing require the least amount of work done? If you are strong enough, you won't have to waste energy on putting your feet onto the wall and your core won't have to do any unnecessary work.
Ideally, all your energy would be spent to propel yourself upwards, and campusing is probably the closest to that.
Next time you have the opportunity, try to campus a boulder problem or route. Report back if it is easier than doing it normally.
Feb 22, 2011, 11:27 PM
Post #60 of 151
(8218 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 268
Re: [johnwesely] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
johnwesely wrote:
gosharks wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
gosharks wrote:
Samiam277 wrote:
One could campus their way op a route, or use technique and footwork to do the same route with half the energy
Technically, couldn't campusing require the least amount of work done? If you are strong enough, you won't have to waste energy on putting your feet onto the wall and your core won't have to do any unnecessary work.
Ideally, all your energy would be spent to propel yourself upwards, and campusing is probably the closest to that.
Next time you have the opportunity, try to campus a boulder problem or route. Report back if it is easier than doing it normally.
Samian277 said "energy," not "ease."
In that case, campusing surely uses more energy.
What argument do you have in that favor? Remember, "if you are strong enough."
Feb 23, 2011, 12:05 AM
Post #61 of 151
(8200 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
Re: [ceebo] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(1 rating)
Can't Post
ceebo wrote:
jt512 wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Would 90 degree lock off duration have better implications?
Well, let's see. If you saw a climber hanging on with his arms bent at 90 degrees what would you conclude about his climbing skill?
Jay
I have never ever seen this to a note worthy level, other than in high end compitition boulder comps. And i have a feeling, that their warm ups.. is your max.
Well, if you think that high-end boulderers climb with 90-degree lock-offs, then I guess that is what you should train.
Feb 23, 2011, 12:08 AM
Post #62 of 151
(8197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
Re: [gosharks] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
gosharks wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
gosharks wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
gosharks wrote:
Samiam277 wrote:
One could campus their way op a route, or use technique and footwork to do the same route with half the energy
Technically, couldn't campusing require the least amount of work done? If you are strong enough, you won't have to waste energy on putting your feet onto the wall and your core won't have to do any unnecessary work.
Ideally, all your energy would be spent to propel yourself upwards, and campusing is probably the closest to that.
Next time you have the opportunity, try to campus a boulder problem or route. Report back if it is easier than doing it normally.
Samian277 said "energy," not "ease."
In that case, campusing surely uses more energy.
What argument do you have in that favor? Remember, "if you are strong enough."
Let me phrase it this way. If campusing uses less energy, how come you don't see people campusing routes?
Feb 23, 2011, 12:17 AM
Post #64 of 151
(8193 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 8, 2011
Posts: 275
Re: [Samiam277] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
Samiam277 wrote:
True, to a degree. Strength has a lot to do with form and climbing style, though not necessarily the grades being pushed. One could campus their way op a route, or use technique and footwork to do the same route with half the energy. Though some routes/moves inevitably will require some degree of strength, overall I would argue that pull-up ability is not proportional to the grades one climbs.
I think there is something that is not being emphasized enough among the climbing community in these discussions about Pull Ups and Climbing Technique.
One of the reasons people discuss pull ups and climbing is because of the fact that they are trying to justify using this as a method to build the endurance in their upper body for climbs. It is a very reasonable idea, as you need to have the strength in your hands and arms to hold on during a climb no matter how good your footwork is.
However, pull ups do not necessarily address the problems that are creating the lack of strength. A few years ago I was running into a problem when i was bouldering an overhang and my arms were getting pumped before I could get to the wall. At that time in my life, I was doing 3 sets of 15 pull ups per day and climbing 3 days a week which seemed counter intuitive to not being able to get around the overhang. I learned that the problem was with the technique I had with my hand holds and gripping them too hard. When I loosened my grip and relaxed my muscles a bit more my climbing improved and I could get through the overhang without any problems.
While I still advocate for using a Pull up bar because I still believe the axiom that pull ups help build strength for climbing; focusing on my hand technique made the biggest difference. This is probably one of the reasons why someone climbing a 5.10 still cannot do 10 pull ups.
Feb 23, 2011, 2:57 AM
Post #69 of 151
(8147 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 268
Re: [johnwesely] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
johnwesely wrote:
Let me phrase it this way. If campusing uses less energy, how come you don't see people campusing routes?
Because people aren't strong enough.
We're talking about two different things here. I'm talking in terms of pure energy expended, as Samiam277 first referred to. Like I previously mentioned, easiest does not necessarily mean the most efficient. For example, it is easier to lift a load with a pulley system, but it would be most efficient to lift it in a direct system with no intermediaries.
Feb 23, 2011, 3:43 AM
Post #70 of 151
(8135 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
Re: [gosharks] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(5 ratings)
Can't Post
gosharks wrote:
Samiam277 wrote:
One could campus their way op a route, or use technique and footwork to do the same route with half the energy
Technically, couldn't campusing require the least amount of work done? If you are strong enough, you won't have to waste energy on putting your feet onto the wall and your core won't have to do any unnecessary work.
Ideally, all your energy would be spent to propel yourself upwards, and campusing is probably the closest to that.
"Efficiency" in climbing doesn't have the same meaning that it does in physics, where it means performing an amount of work with the least waste of energy. In climbing it means performing an amount of work using the least amount of energy from the upper body muscles, especially the forearms, because it is these muscles that fatigue the quickest. So, campusing a move might be the most efficient in the physics sense, but it is almost always less efficient in the climbing sense.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Feb 23, 2011, 3:44 AM)
Feb 23, 2011, 1:08 PM
Post #72 of 151
(8074 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
Re: [jbro_135] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
jbro_135 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
wekeling
I am not disagreeing with you.
i can do 20 in a set and i campused a 5.9 in the gym once
What a beast.
how long until i can climb v13? should i do more fingertip pullups? also why do my fingers hurt
Fingertip pullups are probably not intense enough for a climber of your caliber. I would consider weighting them with at least 20 pounds. Ignore your finger pain. That is just them getting stronger.
Feb 23, 2011, 1:09 PM
Post #73 of 151
(8073 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
Re: [gosharks] what is the max # of pull ups a 5.14 climber can do in one go?
[In reply to]
Report this Post
Average:
(0 ratings)
Can't Post
gosharks wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Let me phrase it this way. If campusing uses less energy, how come you don't see people campusing routes?
Because people aren't strong enough.
We're talking about two different things here. I'm talking in terms of pure energy expended, as Samiam277 first referred to. Like I previously mentioned, easiest does not necessarily mean the most efficient. For example, it is easier to lift a load with a pulley system, but it would be most efficient to lift it in a direct system with no intermediaries.
18 /
33%
