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climbingtrash


Feb 28, 2013, 3:11 PM
Post #97826 of 105309 (4558 views)
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Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 5114

Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
I haz to somehow average 15 posts a day for the next month or so. So you bitches need to entahtainz me to make it easier. that is awl

do ewe lose your green jacket if you don't get to 10k in time?

Nah. Just more of my digniteh

Dignitty? Hipster please...yore posting in teh BET!

I really wish ewe were knot posting in teh BET.

#4


climbingtrash


Feb 28, 2013, 3:14 PM
Post #97827 of 105309 (4556 views)
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Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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hmmm...


climbingtrash


Feb 28, 2013, 3:14 PM
Post #97828 of 105309 (4556 views)
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Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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trash carez


climbingtrash


Feb 28, 2013, 3:16 PM
Post #97829 of 105309 (4555 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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francheyez gram sent...


Partner macherry


Feb 28, 2013, 3:30 PM
Post #97830 of 105309 (4549 views)
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Posts: 15848

Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
macherry wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Found the ol' Majid/JakeD story and used it in reply to bearbreader. Hopefully that thread is about to get a whole lot more awesome.

I do love that story.

It's a story well worth loving. Even it goes unnoticed in that thread it was nice to dig it up again.

i enjoyed it

Ewe noes....

ewe kin actually lurk hear withowt posting.


WOW! macherry, I am impressed! Jack didn't tell you to GTFO, he was actually attempting politeness, as much as he is capable of, anyway...

How do you do that, and could you give me some lessons, please?


heh for some reason he tolerates me. i don't post up much or make an annoyance of myself (like trashy).

we have had some reasonable exchanges





you need to go back and read this thread


lena_chita
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Feb 28, 2013, 3:40 PM
Post #97831 of 105309 (4546 views)
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Re: [climbingtrash] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbingtrash wrote:
francheyez gram sent...

trashy carez!

But at least you are not trashing up my phone inbox, like znupe.


climbingtrash


Feb 28, 2013, 3:50 PM
Post #97832 of 105309 (4544 views)
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Re: [macherry] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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macherry wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
macherry wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Found the ol' Majid/JakeD story and used it in reply to bearbreader. Hopefully that thread is about to get a whole lot more awesome.

I do love that story.

It's a story well worth loving. Even it goes unnoticed in that thread it was nice to dig it up again.

i enjoyed it

Ewe noes....

ewe kin actually lurk hear withowt posting.


WOW! macherry, I am impressed! Jack didn't tell you to GTFO, he was actually attempting politeness, as much as he is capable of, anyway...

How do you do that, and could you give me some lessons, please?


heh for some reason he tolerates me. i don't post up much or make an annoyance of myself (like trashy).

we have had some reasonable exchanges





you need to go back and read this thread Go back to page wun or GTFO.

fx'd.


climbingtrash


Feb 28, 2013, 3:51 PM
Post #97833 of 105309 (4542 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
francheyez gram sent...

trashy carez!

But at least you are not trashing up my phone inbox, like znupe.

that could change. sn00b pm'd


granite_grrl


Feb 28, 2013, 3:52 PM
Post #97834 of 105309 (4540 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
camhead wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
camhead wrote:
Dammit, Lena, J teh boi facefriended drivel but knot me!

Also, boring gnus. Ice storm last night, not sure how the roads are. Driving to Atlanta today for some interviews, driving was cheaper than flying. I finally broke down and learned how to tie a tie yesterday, which I'd successfully avoided for the past few decades. Did you guys know that the first google autocomplete you get for "how do you..." is "tie a tie?"

that is awl.

Boston, Atlanta and DC? You're checking out all the climbing hotspots.

probibly has an interview lined up in chicago, two.
I hope he gets the Omaha jorb.

somebody at teh red was telling us about the tons of sick limestonez in iowa that nobody knows about/pays attention to ... might have been eastern iowa, though.

guys used to spritz about it on the knob years back. Probably your standard 35' riverbank crumbly limestone, but who knows. There's a few gems or Euro Vacations just about everywhere.

yeah, GG was quite skeptical, but the guy was adamant that it was the gratest shit ever. 75', sick overhanging, etc. who nose.
I don't remember any of this.

it was the guy talking to us at the Shire, over by KSB (the fun 10d with all the iron-pulling)

Oh yeah. I think I was happier not remember that conversation.

Seriously, was the guy bald, late 30s, with a cigarette rasp in his voice?

Kinetic Tony has done some Iowa developement. The rock looks decent. Not enough for a trip, but if I was ever taking a leisurely drive across I-80 I would check it out. Of course, everytime I'm driving through Iowa I have nothing on my mind but getting the fuck out of there.

I don't believe so.

So that rules out Troy, but not Tony. Tony wouldn't be acting like a gerk. In fact, he would be positively brimming with enthusiasm and offering to take you on a tour... Did the guy have any cliff bar signs on his gear? As in, ALL over his gear?

If not, then we just discovered that there is a 3rd guy who knows about the secret radness of Iowa limestone. Angelic

I think this guy was leading a group of gumbies who were lurving the Shire.

also accurate

Hey, you wouldn't have met a group of newbs who were lurving the Shire you you two weren't ALSO at the Shire.

Just saying...

yes, and it turned out that (a) it's on the way over to Amarillo and Samurai (one of the many gnu proj's I picked up that trip), and (b) that KSB rowt is a kickass warmup.

The n00b wall on the shire is not good warmup, though.

that was a gud day, actually ... KSB was fun, fell off towards the end of the left traverse on my onsite attempt of Amarillo, zent on try 2, took a beatdown figuring out the boulder porblem on samurai, then went across the valley and zent the Citizen's Arete (2nd try of the day, after hanging draws on try 1).

Citizens arête was Lena's mega proj earlier. I think it finally went down after a few years work.

well, I have a sneaking suspicion that she went off rowt in the middle and never actually zent.

Oh really? Well, keep your suspicions to yourself, unless you have photos to prove it!

this sounds a bit like a tacit admission.

We awl noes she cheated herself.... cuz that's whut no-talent, sawed oft sprayers due.

I dunno. I think that if Lena was going to cheat herself on Citzen's Arete she would have done it in one of the first half dozen redpoint burns she took.

And the hangboreding tawk is almost over. Been doing more actual climbing, and I think I am going to name my pins Anderson Cooper, Adam Lambert, and Lance Bass, because those bad boys are COMING OUT on Friday. HeyOOO!!!

Awww, someone came to my defense! I am touched!

It's O.K., bitter old guys prefer clipbored to hangbored, it happens with age. We will all be there someday.

And yay! on the pins coming out. But... you are taking them out the same day you are flying across country? Isn't it a bit.... I dunno, poorly planned?

Are you saying you didn't cheat yoreself on Citzen's Arete?

yeah, isn't that where you got yore self-cheating beta from?

Well, that's what I thought, but apparently I'm incorrect?

For the very serious record, I did not see Lena zend Citizen's Arete, but she never used any dubious tactics while I belayed her on it.

That is not going to stop me from making up random facts to slander her, though.

I think it has to be not true to be slander.


drivel


Feb 28, 2013, 4:14 PM
Post #97835 of 105309 (4535 views)
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Posts: 2459

Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
I nailed a median last night and blew out a tire. Found put this morning that I need a new rim as well. There's a few hundred bucks I wasn't expecting :/

Good news is I got on the BoD for PDox.

Not supposed to nail those medians.

what is up with your organization? Is teh mal back in? What about that new pro chairwoman?
Yeah, we're at a $600 at the car shop. There goes my new skis >:(

Things are in flux with PDox, as always, but I think I'll be able to make a difference because I speak day dreamer Timmy as well as CFO business finance speak... They need someone bilingual like that to make progress because now everyone just gets frustrated with each other.

I TALK TO THE ATHLETES SO CORPORATE DOESN'T HAVE TO

...how much gu do I have on my face?


Partner cracklover


Feb 28, 2013, 4:24 PM
Post #97836 of 105309 (4531 views)
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Posts: 10162

Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
macherry wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Found the ol' Majid/JakeD story and used it in reply to bearbreader. Hopefully that thread is about to get a whole lot more awesome.

I do love that story.

It's a story well worth loving. Even it goes unnoticed in that thread it was nice to dig it up again.

i enjoyed it

Ewe noes....

ewe kin actually lurk hear withowt posting.


WOW! macherry, I am impressed! Jack didn't tell you to GTFO, he was actually attempting politeness, as much as he is capable of, anyway...

How do you do that, and could you give me some lessons, please?

Seems like a straightforward equation to me:

Ma's boobs > Lena's boobs > My boobs.

I really thought you were smart enough to figure that out. I'm disappointed, really.

GO


Partner macherry


Feb 28, 2013, 4:58 PM
Post #97837 of 105309 (4519 views)
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Posts: 15848

Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
macherry wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Found the ol' Majid/JakeD story and used it in reply to bearbreader. Hopefully that thread is about to get a whole lot more awesome.

I do love that story.

It's a story well worth loving. Even it goes unnoticed in that thread it was nice to dig it up again.

i enjoyed it

Ewe noes....

ewe kin actually lurk hear withowt posting.


WOW! macherry, I am impressed! Jack didn't tell you to GTFO, he was actually attempting politeness, as much as he is capable of, anyway...

How do you do that, and could you give me some lessons, please?

Seems like a straightforward equation to me:

Ma's boobs > Lena's boobs > My boobs.

I really thought you were smart enough to figure that out. I'm disappointed, really.

GO

nope


not so much




and i don't have long hair either


snoopy138


Feb 28, 2013, 4:59 PM
Post #97838 of 105309 (4519 views)
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Posts: 28992

Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
camhead wrote:
hehe, train wreck alert:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

Someone revived a decade-old thread to reveal some more dramz on Enigma. At first I thought she was talking about Amber, because she messed up some quote strings, but after telling Amber, I think the comments were directed at Enigma.

Wow.

Without clicking the link, I think I remember that train wreck.

I didn't read whatever that old thread is, but the train wreck is really in the gnu post.


snoopy138


Feb 28, 2013, 5:06 PM
Post #97839 of 105309 (4517 views)
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Posts: 28992

Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
camhead wrote:
cracklover wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
macherry wrote:
camhead wrote:
Some low grade dramz here.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...4;page=unread#unread

Seriously, I mean, we all know that Lena is a gerk, but I am not sure what Olderic's gripe is. I'm pretty psyched that he dug up teh Kansas City controversy, though! Hopefully some more fun will come out of it.

jeez and i never go into the climbing forums

the guy had a stalkerty stalkerty vibe
I've actually met Eric, and he seemed as normal as any old climbing bum can be. I think he's the type of guy who smoked way too much pot in his youth and is now turning into a crotchety old man. He's got to be late 60s by now.


Maybe he has a 3rd grade crush on Lena?

I've climbed a fair bit with him, and he's the most different online to in person of anyone I've known. Something about the internet just seems to constantly rub him the wrong way, and then get under his skin until he blows up, as he does with some regularity.

Okay, now I'm starting to sound like a stalker. Am not! Just happen to know and like the IRL guy. The online version, not so much.

GUnimpressed

Someone needs to make a chart of the online to IRL quotient of users. You know, Eric at one end for "very different," and Angry at the other in "pretty much the same."

This past fall, we were at Endless Wall. Me and a friend were BS-ing with some other climbers for a bit. After a while, I walked around the corner to go pee or something. As soon as I was out of earshot, the folks we were talking to said, "You know who that was? I think that was camhead!"

Ewe really are a legend....

in yore own mind.

standards for self-legendary status are slipping.


lena_chita
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Feb 28, 2013, 5:45 PM
Post #97840 of 105309 (4506 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087

Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
macherry wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Found the ol' Majid/JakeD story and used it in reply to bearbreader. Hopefully that thread is about to get a whole lot more awesome.

I do love that story.

It's a story well worth loving. Even it goes unnoticed in that thread it was nice to dig it up again.

i enjoyed it

Ewe noes....

ewe kin actually lurk hear withowt posting.


WOW! macherry, I am impressed! Jack didn't tell you to GTFO, he was actually attempting politeness, as much as he is capable of, anyway...

How do you do that, and could you give me some lessons, please?

Seems like a straightforward equation to me:

Ma's boobs > Lena's boobs > My boobs.

Ma's boobs>GO boobs>Lena's no-boobs

GO

I corrected your misconception there. But I am afraid you don't understand, Jack is more of an ass, man.


lena_chita
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Feb 28, 2013, 5:47 PM
Post #97841 of 105309 (4503 views)
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Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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drivel wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
I nailed a median last night and blew out a tire. Found put this morning that I need a new rim as well. There's a few hundred bucks I wasn't expecting :/

Good news is I got on the BoD for PDox.

Not supposed to nail those medians.

what is up with your organization? Is teh mal back in? What about that new pro chairwoman?
Yeah, we're at a $600 at the car shop. There goes my new skis >:(

Things are in flux with PDox, as always, but I think I'll be able to make a difference because I speak day dreamer Timmy as well as CFO business finance speak... They need someone bilingual like that to make progress because now everyone just gets frustrated with each other.

I TALK TO THE ATHLETES SO CORPORATE DOESN'T HAVE TO

...how much gu do I have on my face?

Not enough yet, but with that many pages to go, I am sure you'll manage.


tripperjm


Mar 1, 2013, 1:55 AM
Post #97842 of 105309 (4475 views)
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Re: [climbingtrash] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbingtrash wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
I haz to somehow average 15 posts a day for the next month or so. So you bitches need to entahtainz me to make it easier. that is awl

do ewe lose your green jacket if you don't get to 10k in time?

that would knot be a bad thing?

Somehow I've had the green jacket for 9 years or so. Though for a while I was an admin, so it was red? I don't remember now what color it was.

Jak hates teh green jaket. Me, I'm not racist like that.

When I wunts yore opinion,

I'll poynt at ewe with my middle finger.....

until then shut teh fuk up!!!


tripperjm


Mar 1, 2013, 2:01 AM
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Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
I haz to somehow average 15 posts a day for the next month or so. So you bitches need to entahtainz me to make it easier. that is awl

do ewe lose your green jacket if you don't get to 10k in time?

Nah. Just more of my digniteh

Dignitty? Hipster please...yore posting in teh BET!

You missed the reference Donny. Go back to page 1 of the original thread. Let us know when you have caught up. Should only take a couple of years.

It's pretty obvious, dispite trashys claim to have read teh entire thread, he's a lyeing sub 5k sack... cuz that wus an easy won.


tripperjm


Mar 1, 2013, 2:04 AM
Post #97844 of 105309 (4475 views)
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Re: [climbingtrash] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbingtrash wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
I haz to somehow average 15 posts a day for the next month or so. So you bitches need to entahtainz me to make it easier. that is awl

do ewe lose your green jacket if you don't get to 10k in time?

Nah. Just more of my digniteh

Dignitty? Hipster please...yore posting in teh BET!

You missed the reference Donny. Go back to page 1 of the original thread. Let us know when you have caught up. Should only take a couple of years.

Or..or...OR...ewe could PM me teh crib notes?

loser


tripperjm


Mar 1, 2013, 2:14 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Time for a weekly sprayfest.

Campusing is coming along pretty well. My goal was to be able to go up without hand matching, but I need to come up with a new one, b.c I already did that, and that tool only 3 campus workouts.

Daytripped with Heffe. Climbed well, felt really bouncy. Life is good.

Tied with the girl who beat me in the past two comps, and then beat her in the tie-breaker. WOO!

For the first time ever, I actually got the same score as Heffe, and that is kinda an accomplishment, bc he does really well in bouldering comps. He placed 4th in men's overall, and we are talking Manderson's friend Fred who is freaking strong getting 3rd, so that means I would have placed 4th among the guys... another woo!


Speaking of Heffe, can I deviate from my gerkiness long enough to say that he's been a total sweetheart lately? He won the winter boulder league at the gym, and instead of picking a prize for himself, he picked a girl's Rock Candy hoodie for me, b.c he remembered me saying that i would like one. And guess who made my breakfast today? Awww, heartmelt, puddles, and Valentine's day cooking classes. (No, no, I am joking about the last one!)

That's awl. [/spray]

smells like...




tripperjm


Mar 1, 2013, 2:19 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
Man, I haven't had such a lazy Sunday in ages! Feels good to be lazy once in a while. Made some progress on my jean quilt. it would be nice to finally have it done, bc my "design board" is my bedroom floor.

Went to the gym this afternoon to do some wall stripping and setting. The request was for a "hard" route. It is difficult for me to gauge the grade while setting, and it has happened more than once that i have planned to make a hard route and ended up with a moderate that requires some tweaking to "harden"
it. So I finish setting, and ask a guy to give me a catch. Run though the route, it turned out really nice, flows well, but I think, maybe not quite hard, maybe hard minus... Which in our gym-speak corresponds to ~11b/c.

Meanwhile, a visiting guy has been walking circles around the construction cones, dying to try this new route. So he get's on it, and falls on the 1st move. And 3rd move, and 5th move, and 6th move... you get the idea. Comes down and pronounces it to be a "solid 5.12, really sustained, one hard move after another". Not sure, if you can call a 25ft climb a sustained anything, but... heh! Another guy gets on it, same thing... apparently it is harder than I thought. They both like the route, at least that much is good. But now I am wondering if my difficulty gauge really needs recalibrating, or if I had just set one of those "easy-for-people-between-4'10"-and-5'2"-difficult-for-everyone-else" routes.

Grading gym routes. Such a fun exercise!




snoopy138


Mar 1, 2013, 2:20 AM
Post #97847 of 105309 (4466 views)
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Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
I haz to somehow average 15 posts a day for the next month or so. So you bitches need to entahtainz me to make it easier. that is awl

do ewe lose your green jacket if you don't get to 10k in time?

that would knot be a bad thing?

Somehow I've had the green jacket for 9 years or so. Though for a while I was an admin, so it was red? I don't remember now what color it was.

Jak hates teh green jaket. Me, I'm not racist like that.

When I wunts yore opinion,

I'll poynt at ewe with my middle finger.....

until then shut teh fuk up!!!

actually, even if you point at him with yore middle finger ... he should really still just shut the fuck up.


tripperjm


Mar 1, 2013, 2:32 AM
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Re: [epoch] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Man, I haven't had such a lazy Sunday in ages! Feels good to be lazy once in a while. Made some progress on my jean quilt. it would be nice to finally have it done, bc my "design board" is my bedroom floor.

Went to the gym this afternoon to do some wall stripping and setting. The request was for a "hard" route. It is difficult for me to gauge the grade while setting, and it has happened more than once that i have planned to make a hard route and ended up with a moderate that requires some tweaking to "harden"
it. So I finish setting, and ask a guy to give me a catch. Run though the route, it turned out really nice, flows well, but I think, maybe not quite hard, maybe hard minus... Which in our gym-speak corresponds to ~11b/c.

Meanwhile, a visiting guy has been walking circles around the construction cones, dying to try this new route. So he get's on it, and falls on the 1st move. And 3rd move, and 5th move, and 6th move... you get the idea. Comes down and pronounces it to be a "solid 5.12, really sustained, one hard move after another". Not sure, if you can call a 25ft climb a sustained anything, but... heh! Another guy gets on it, same thing... apparently it is harder than I thought. They both like the route, at least that much is good. But now I am wondering if my difficulty gauge really needs recalibrating, or if I had just set one of those "easy-for-people-between-4'10"-and-5'2"-difficult-for-everyone-else" routes.

Grading gym routes. Such a fun exercise!

We have the setters post up what they think the route is/should be, then go 1-2 letters above and below and have check-boxes next to the grades. After a week, the highest grade is set and that's what the route is graded. Keeps routes appropriately graded.

Basicly that my issue with conscience grading...

it really is just conscience ov teh lowest comon denomanator.

Fuk awl those soft grading losers!!!1 nothing rong with stiff grades...

or even sandbagged grades. Keep it proud.


tripperjm


Mar 1, 2013, 2:33 AM
Post #97849 of 105309 (4463 views)
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 10650

Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
epoch wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Man, I haven't had such a lazy Sunday in ages! Feels good to be lazy once in a while. Made some progress on my jean quilt. it would be nice to finally have it done, bc my "design board" is my bedroom floor.

Went to the gym this afternoon to do some wall stripping and setting. The request was for a "hard" route. It is difficult for me to gauge the grade while setting, and it has happened more than once that i have planned to make a hard route and ended up with a moderate that requires some tweaking to "harden"
it. So I finish setting, and ask a guy to give me a catch. Run though the route, it turned out really nice, flows well, but I think, maybe not quite hard, maybe hard minus... Which in our gym-speak corresponds to ~11b/c.

Meanwhile, a visiting guy has been walking circles around the construction cones, dying to try this new route. So he get's on it, and falls on the 1st move. And 3rd move, and 5th move, and 6th move... you get the idea. Comes down and pronounces it to be a "solid 5.12, really sustained, one hard move after another". Not sure, if you can call a 25ft climb a sustained anything, but... heh! Another guy gets on it, same thing... apparently it is harder than I thought. They both like the route, at least that much is good. But now I am wondering if my difficulty gauge really needs recalibrating, or if I had just set one of those "easy-for-people-between-4'10"-and-5'2"-difficult-for-everyone-else" routes.

Grading gym routes. Such a fun exercise!

We have the setters post up what they think the route is/should be, then go 1-2 letters above and below and have check-boxes next to the grades. After a week, the highest grade is set and that's what the route is graded. Keeps routes appropriately graded.

I think that gym routes should go through double-blind peer review processes for grading. Actually, that should go for outside routes, too. It really is the only sensible option.

Well then yore knot gunna like teh grades at teh hole.


snoopy138


Mar 1, 2013, 2:37 AM
Post #97850 of 105309 (4460 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992

Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
camhead wrote:
epoch wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Man, I haven't had such a lazy Sunday in ages! Feels good to be lazy once in a while. Made some progress on my jean quilt. it would be nice to finally have it done, bc my "design board" is my bedroom floor.

Went to the gym this afternoon to do some wall stripping and setting. The request was for a "hard" route. It is difficult for me to gauge the grade while setting, and it has happened more than once that i have planned to make a hard route and ended up with a moderate that requires some tweaking to "harden"
it. So I finish setting, and ask a guy to give me a catch. Run though the route, it turned out really nice, flows well, but I think, maybe not quite hard, maybe hard minus... Which in our gym-speak corresponds to ~11b/c.

Meanwhile, a visiting guy has been walking circles around the construction cones, dying to try this new route. So he get's on it, and falls on the 1st move. And 3rd move, and 5th move, and 6th move... you get the idea. Comes down and pronounces it to be a "solid 5.12, really sustained, one hard move after another". Not sure, if you can call a 25ft climb a sustained anything, but... heh! Another guy gets on it, same thing... apparently it is harder than I thought. They both like the route, at least that much is good. But now I am wondering if my difficulty gauge really needs recalibrating, or if I had just set one of those "easy-for-people-between-4'10"-and-5'2"-difficult-for-everyone-else" routes.

Grading gym routes. Such a fun exercise!

We have the setters post up what they think the route is/should be, then go 1-2 letters above and below and have check-boxes next to the grades. After a week, the highest grade is set and that's what the route is graded. Keeps routes appropriately graded.

I think that gym routes should go through double-blind peer review processes for grading. Actually, that should go for outside routes, too. It really is the only sensible option.

Well then yore knot gunna like teh grades at teh hole.

He'll like the Big Tony grades.

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