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jammer
May 21, 2007, 4:57 PM
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cracklover wrote: jammer wrote: Edited to inform that there is now a list of who said they will be there on the first post, just below the directions to Colleens. Hey, I'm in as of page 2. Not on the list, though. Whatever, I'm crashing your party! Keep your women and children locked up safe, I'm on a rampage! GO
 Sorry Gabe ... must of missed that one. Put you on the top of the list!! Sounds like you're ready to go ...
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cracklover
May 21, 2007, 7:40 PM
Post #102 of 219
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Hey, no worries. Just back from a trip to the big granite trench, and my motivation to climb hasn't been so big in a looong time. So yeah, I'm ready!
GO
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notch
May 22, 2007, 12:39 PM
Post #103 of 219
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ATTENTION TRADDIES!
Lest this event become a dedicated sportfest, who's up for some traddin' on Friday? Last year Denny, Pharmboy, Losbill and I planned Whitney Gilman, but got rained out. We moved south to Kinsman Notch and had fun nonetheless. Anyone else looking to scuff up the racks a bit before clipping bolts on Saturday?
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blueeyedclimber
May 22, 2007, 3:03 PM
Post #104 of 219
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notch wrote: ATTENTION TRADDIES! Lest this event become a dedicated sportfest, who's up for some traddin' on Friday? Last year Denny, Pharmboy, Losbill and I planned Whitney Gilman, but got rained out. We moved south to Kinsman Notch and had fun nonetheless. Anyone else looking to scuff up the racks a bit before clipping bolts on Saturday?
OOOHHHH, I would love to but not sure I can swing it. Put me down as a probably not but if I can I definitely will!
Josh
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c4c
May 22, 2007, 5:22 PM
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OK. The free pasta dinner is on! We are planning on Friday night June 22 at 7pm at the Rumney Baptist church on the corner of Buffalo and Stinson lake rds. Free. All are welcome.
please No alcohol/drugs on church property.
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jammer
May 23, 2007, 12:05 PM
Post #106 of 219
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notch wrote: ATTENTION TRADDIES! Lest this event become a dedicated sportfest, who's up for some traddin' on Friday? Last year Denny, Pharmboy, Losbill and I planned Whitney Gilman, but got rained out. We moved south to Kinsman Notch and had fun nonetheless. Anyone else looking to scuff up the racks a bit before clipping bolts on Saturday?
I'm not sure if I can do Friday ... gotta be around to welcome friends to the event, but I'm willing to do trad on Saturday or Sunday! There is even trad on the Main Wall at Rumney if we wanted to keep the group together, which is not a requirement.
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jakedatc
May 23, 2007, 2:13 PM
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the top of Sky Pilot has some trad ;) the approach to it is a biiiiitch tho bahahhaaa
I'm tempted to No Money Down old school style.. i just need to figure out which bolts are "off"
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cracklover
May 23, 2007, 2:53 PM
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jakedatc wrote: the top of Sky Pilot has some trad ;) the approach to it is a biiiiitch tho bahahhaaa I'm tempted to No Money Down old school style.. i just need to figure out which bolts are "off"
Better yet, Polly Purebread. That looks like a nice trad lead.
GO
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losbill
May 23, 2007, 3:23 PM
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I would be up for some Cannon trad on Friday. Been thinking of doing the first couple of pitches of Duet. If we want to keep it long maybe try Ambrosia to WGR.
If we do WGR I will lead the 5.8 crack as long as someone hauls up a bouldering pad to cushion the impact zone!!!
Also have been thinking about Lakeview. I haven't done it yet. Been thinking about poking around and seeing how the first three pitches that make up the original Lakeview go. Make it a little more interesting.
Also could go up Wiessner's Buttress or Dike and see if we can figure out where Two Indented Heads are Better Than One and/or Indented Servants go. I think I did the crux overlap on Indented Servants before backing off since I didn't think my second (third day climbing) would be too comfortable doing it and I didn't know what lay ahead. It seemed pretty soft for a 5.9 which makes me think I'm missing something although it seemed to match Sykes' description.
Gee Notch you seem to be making quite a few climbing plans for a brand new Dad!!!! I'm sure it helps that Mrs. Notch is a climber. Clearly she is pretty understanding as well!!
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cracklover
May 23, 2007, 3:30 PM
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Isn't Lakeview pretty much unclimbable now?
GO
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blueeyedclimber
May 23, 2007, 4:04 PM
Post #111 of 219
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cracklover wrote: jakedatc wrote: the top of Sky Pilot has some trad ;) the approach to it is a biiiiitch tho bahahhaaa I'm tempted to No Money Down old school style.. i just need to figure out which bolts are "off" Better yet, Polly Purebread. That looks like a nice trad lead. GO
TRAD AT RUMNEY???? HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
Seriously, the only reason I do sport once in a while is for the lighter pack. Leave the rack at home or at least find something better.
BTW, Polly Purebread is bolted now.
As for Jake. Old school means ALL bolts off! I even hear that if you look at a bolt then some crusty old curmudgeon will come out of the crack to belittle you. 
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losbill
May 23, 2007, 4:25 PM
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Had friends go up it last year who said it is fine. Looking over to the right and down on it from the Lunch Ledge last year it seemed the loose pebbly stuff is gone. What remains is scattered soccer-ball-sized and up rocks on the low angle stuff right off the ledge. They seem pretty stable. Plus wasn't most of Lakeview pretty much outside the "blast zone? (Just checked NEClimbs. I stand corrected seems the middle pitches got hit but have cleaned up fairly well. Plus there seem to be two alternative approaches that bypass the worst of it.)
The last two pitches, the Wiessner's Buttress finish were unaffected by the demise of the Old Man. I have been up them a twice since he whipped.
On the other hand I was on the 3rd pitch of Falling Aspirations last year and there is a ton of loose stuff in the right side corner of the Wiessner's Dike slab. Some of it very big. Very, very scary.
Falling Aspirations was clean but the one bolt I came across on the pitch was absolutely flattened. Had to back off on account of being pretty runout and still 20 feet short of the belay ledge. I have spoken to two people who independently did Consolation Prize last year. Both said there was a lot of loose stuff on the upper pitches.
(This post was edited by losbill on May 23, 2007, 4:49 PM)
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jakedatc
May 23, 2007, 4:46 PM
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Josh. i'm sure you know sky pilot is a bolted 11b route with a run out 5.6 section at the top with some old pins that are suggested to be backed up.. 3 small cams and a few nuts don't add enough weight to make much of a difference to 5.8 crag.. same with Meadows.
ACTUALLY the original NMD had at least one bolt on it as the guidebook says "Trad gear,bolt to LO"
Gabe knows it's bolted.. I also know alot more new stuff that's been bolted that isn't in the book but thats for me to know and you to find out ;)
I do think most trad at rumney is silly.. those couple routes down low are for laughs
what are you and tiff doing this weekend? i'm still searching for a solid partner for thus-sat/sun or are you joining the acadia attack
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blueeyedclimber
May 23, 2007, 6:50 PM
Post #114 of 219
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jakedatc wrote: Josh. i'm sure you know sky pilot is a bolted 11b route with a run out 5.6 section at the top with some old pins that are suggested to be backed up.. 3 small cams and a few nuts don't add enough weight to make much of a difference to 5.8 crag.. same with Meadows. ACTUALLY the original NMD had at least one bolt on it as the guidebook says "Trad gear,bolt to LO" Gabe knows it's bolted.. I also know alot more new stuff that's been bolted that isn't in the book but thats for me to know and you to find out ;) I do think most trad at rumney is silly.. those couple routes down low are for laughs what are you and tiff doing this weekend? i'm still searching for a solid partner for thus-sat/sun or are you joining the acadia attack
I dont' know Sky Pilot. I haven't spent that much time at Rumney lately. When I am there, all of the routes that I want to do are at Waimea, Main Cliff and Orange Crush.
Yes. Trad + Rumney =   
This weekend we are going to the Gunks. We have our daughter this weekend and we are visiting Tiff's sister who lives right near there. We will get in one day of "climbing" (finding stuff Dakotah can toprope). Originally we were going to Acadia but Dakotah's been there and not to the Gunks.
Have fun, and we will see you at the gathering if we don't make it up before then.
Josh
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notch
May 23, 2007, 6:50 PM
Post #115 of 219
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losbill wrote: Gee Notch you seem to be making quite a few climbing plans for a brand new Dad!!!! I'm sure it helps that Mrs. Notch is a climber. Clearly she is pretty understanding as well!!
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cracklover
May 23, 2007, 7:01 PM
Post #116 of 219
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jakedatc wrote: Gabe knows it's bolted..
Yup. Just having fun with Jake.
In reply to: I do think most trad at rumney is silly..
And not very good. The two trad lines I've done there, Clippety DD, and Holderness Corner were both utterly uninspiring. Take it from me, a dyed in the wool traddy: Rumney really is a true natural sport crag.
GO
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jammer
May 23, 2007, 8:45 PM
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Hey Bill ... you better be saving a dance for me, big guy! Saturday or Sunday will be a full trad day for me. Pick a route and let's dance!
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notch
May 23, 2007, 10:03 PM
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I could switch to Trad on Saturday if necessary. I'm sure Rich will want in, so that makes 4.
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losbill
May 23, 2007, 10:03 PM
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Sorry Jammer Man.
You should know better. This is the Ruckus
Saturday and Sunday are strictly clip'n'go and nothin' but clip'n'go. Just some good, clean clip'n'go fun.
In fact I heard Jake is bringing a lantern up to the Alcove and we are going to climb all night. 24 hours of clip'n'going!!!!
We are going to prove half a million kids can have clip'n'go fun and music and nothing but clip'n'go fun and music ... Oops! Wrong decade! Sorry. My bad.
Bill
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jammer
May 23, 2007, 10:12 PM
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losbill wrote: Sorry Jammer Man. You should know better. This is the Ruckus Saturday and Sunday are strictly clip'n'go and nothin' but clip'n'go. Just some good, clean clip'n'go fun. In fact I heard Jake is bringing a lantern up to the Alcove and we are going to climb all night. 24 hours of clip'n'going!!!! We are going to prove half a million kids can have clip'n'go fun and music and nothing but clip'n'go fun and music ... Oops! Wrong decade! Sorry. My bad. Bill
If my memory serves me correctly, the Ruckus was developed to get people together that never had met, to climb, not just clip bolts. OK ... I'll bring my gear, even if all I do is play with it ... 
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jakedatc
May 23, 2007, 10:13 PM
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AHAHAHAHA i'd freaking try it some time haha that would awesome.. start at the top and climb downwards... how many routes you think you could do in 24 hours haha
i have too many projects for that kinda thing to happen though.. in the past i have done a bit of head light climbing though.. ;)
Just don't play with your gear at the church thing... i think they'd frown on that ;) BAHAHAHA  ARRR
(This post was edited by jakedatc on May 23, 2007, 10:15 PM)
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losbill
May 23, 2007, 10:45 PM
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Notch don't humor him!
Jam man. I have met you, climbed with you; clipped them bolt thingys with you; hauled 100 lbs logs up a muddy, wet trail with you; and stood out in the blinding, soaking rain with you so I guess we gotta basically ignore each other at the Ruckus!!!
Hey listen this is fun but I have to get back to the basement. I'm practicing my clipping; sanding my fingertips; thinking about not eating, I'm showing up at the RR weighing 128 pounds. All the while I'm wearing a dress and screaming, at the top of my lungs "I am F***ing Jerry Moffatt!!!" I'm in training!!!!!
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jammer
May 23, 2007, 10:47 PM
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I'm always playing with my gear, when it needs attention. I'm also told that if I don't use it, I'll loose it!!
Help me Jake ... it that true?!?
snicker ... snicker ... damn pebble wrestlers ...
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jammer
May 23, 2007, 10:55 PM
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Damn man! You'll sure be a sight ... and I'm gonna hold you to the dress dance! (note to self ...remember to bring batteries for the camera)
No worries Billie-boy, we can climb the Main Wall and get exposure and the multi-pitched feeling of trad, AND ... still clip bolts! Hows zat?
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