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revdeuno
Feb 23, 2004, 2:08 AM
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yeah she's a little wuss, I saw a trailer for the movie documenting her ascent of el cap with Hans Florine and at the beginning she says "it's not that big" acting all hard, and then a few seconds later it shows her actually on it, in tears saying "I'm so scared". Should be a good watch as long as there's plenty of her crying :P
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verynovice
Feb 23, 2004, 2:22 AM
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and her book royally sucks....and the biggest problem i had with her is that at this youth ralley, her and Jeff Walling taught a class. prior to attending this ralley i had read an article about how much money she makies per year with endorsements, comps, action figures, and other what not...SHE MAKES 6 FIGURES PER YEAR!!!!! SHES 15!!! and she had the audacity to say" im really kinda worried about college b/c i really need a scholarship to Perude for Pole vaulting b/c we cant afford out of state tuition" wow.....im speechless.....but its sad...another case of a father who exploits his childs ability and dont give nothin back....
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jeffstephan
Feb 23, 2004, 3:37 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: On climbing sucking, I agree. The magazine has gotten increasingly worse ever since Thesenga was fired. I know he shouldnt have set the J-Tree rock on fire, but he was way better than Jeff Achey. When Matt Samet went to R & I they lost yet another good writer (though i disagree with him on many of his opinions). Im not sure when John Long left, but without his portion of the mag, I became much less interested in reading Climbing. In my opinion John Long is pretty much the best ROCK climbing writer, whose material I have ever read. All 3 of these writers now write for R & I. Just cancel Climbing and subscribe to Rock & Ice. Achey is a bright beacon in the Climbing wilderness...geez, thumb thru some old issues and read his stuff...loooong history of writing for the mags...and a fine job on reissuing "Climb!"... Anyhoo, really glad to see him sign on. Will be interesting to watch the direction... Brian in SLC
Jeff Achey is a great writer.
Just felt Brian's words needed to be restated.
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fish
Feb 23, 2004, 3:51 AM
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I'd like to see how well all of you genius's write... Since you all think everyone at Climbing sucks at it so much. Stop spraying and go climbing.
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pyrodude
Mar 1, 2004, 8:14 PM
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When I read the article, I felt like the dad was one of those parents more concerned with who knows their kid and what their kid does thatn who their kid is. Trading cards- waht the heck?!? The pictures were not taht great either. THe story itself was okay, other than how their was no real interviewing just how one person got blown off by teenagers or something else like that.
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b_fost
Mar 1, 2004, 8:25 PM
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i saw that! they made a big deal about her middle fingers only pullup.
question: how many of you canNOT do that?
but seriously, this article is what sucks about being well known. random people picking apart your life on a message board. yay.
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victorjohn
Mar 1, 2004, 9:19 PM
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wow. I am incredulous that there is so much pathetic ego competition going one here... and with a 15 year old who will likely never read the comments?
I tip my hat to all you trad-bent fearless one finger pulling superheros who can, by your mere comments on an web forum, beat down the unprincipled 15 year old who dares to be just what she is. You are truly thinking deeply with all your assesments.
Spray on, and by no means let the question of slander and unfounded gossip enter your minds.
The fact that this thread lasted so long is the latest installment in my evidence log to support my pessimist view of the human condition.
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climbsomething
Mar 1, 2004, 9:28 PM
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In reply to: I'd like to see how well all of you genius's write... Since you all think everyone at Climbing sucks at it so much. Stop spraying and go climbing. |
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climbhigh2005
Mar 1, 2004, 10:25 PM
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After reading the article, I finally found a climber I didnt like... I wont get started on why I didnt like her, but some of my nonclimbing friends met her as well as my climbing friends.. and they said she was hott, and really famous... personally I dont like how she gets all showy and is like ha I'm better than you... thats what I like about professional climbers... the way they dont care... they climb because they enjoy it.. not because they want the fame...
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jt512
Mar 1, 2004, 10:49 PM
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In reply to: i just met Tori Allen yesterday at a youth ralley...now i have not been climbing long and i have no room to criticize but, shes just flat out scared to lead a trad route. as i was getting her to autograph my anasazi velcro my pal asked her " what was the hardest trad route u have led?" she answered" i have NEVER led a trad route and i prob never will" ladies and gents this is why she gets sooooo much criticism from the climbing community. sure she could climb the socks off a 5.13d and 5.14a but those are merely sport routes.
I take it, then, that you can climb "mere" 5.13d and 5.14a sport routes. Sure. Face it, pal, that kid is 100 times stronger than you'll ever be.
-Jay
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dynoguy
Mar 1, 2004, 10:55 PM
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BURN!!!! :lol:
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climbsomething
Mar 1, 2004, 11:00 PM
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In reply to: i just met Tori Allen yesterday at a youth ralley...now i have not been climbing long and i have no room to criticize but, shes just flat out scared to lead a trad route. as i was getting her to autograph my anasazi velcro my pal asked her " what was the hardest trad route u have led?" she answered" i have NEVER led a trad route and i prob never will" ladies and gents this is why she gets sooooo much criticism from the climbing community. sure she could climb the socks off a 5.13d and 5.14a but those are merely sport routes. She is def. not an Emily Harrington, Katie Brown, and def. not a Lynn Hill. She crindged when i mentioned placing gear... its obvious that she is not a GREAT risk taker and she belongs on the ground. Quote "...but i love to bolder... i guess i represent a new generation of climbers."
Signing your Anasazi Velcro? haha, smooth line.
T3. Getting the trad-sport thing going is almost always a given, but that Anasazi Velcro part made me chuckle.
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dirtineye
Mar 1, 2004, 11:04 PM
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Now now jt, SIMMER DOWN!!!
This really irks me to say it, but, well, Sport climbing is it's own thing, and elite sport climbers have their own art. 5.10 or 5.11 sport may be in the "Merely sport", category, but 5.13 and up is downright awesome, just as V8 and up boulder problems that are only 6 feet off the ground are awsome.
There are plenty of great boulderers who are scared to death of trad or sport. So what? So what if a little girl who can climb very very hard in gyms and on sport routes does not want to do any trad? (Ohhh this really hurts to say) Trad is not the one true way to climb. ( OK for me it is, along with bouldering, but that's just me).
Anyway, give the kid a break. Let her grow up some. Lots of famous child atheletes left a lot to be desired until they matured. Some people thought Pete Sampras as a real jerk when he was young, but he became a beloved figure eventually as he matured.
And speaking of L'enfant Terrible, John Macenroe really was a jerk in his youth, but he is now the best tennis commentator around.
I too cannot believe this thread has gone on so long, but then, maybe PT Barnum was right.
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tahoe_rock_master
Mar 1, 2004, 11:05 PM
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yeah I read that article :( . Sounds like a sketchy situation.
From the article do you think the anchors failed, or something else?
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sticky_fingers
Mar 1, 2004, 11:09 PM
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In reply to: yeah I read that article :( . Sounds like a sketchy situation. From the article do you think the anchors failed, or something else?
HAHAHAHAHAHA dude, W T F are you talking about? Climbing Free???
HAHAHAHA
I haven't laughed that hard since I was a little girl
Focus, my man, focus
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tahoe_rock_master
Mar 1, 2004, 11:19 PM
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[quote="dynamicpanda"] She seems like the exact kind of person that I would avoid during school.
I totally agree with this. The article shwed her as a person who I would not want to climb with, or be associated with.
But the article could be skewed as to not portray her true self, therefore I would look like an idiot.
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tahoe_rock_master
Mar 1, 2004, 11:21 PM
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HAHAHAHAHAHA dude, W T F are you talking about? Climbing Free???
HAHAHAHA
I haven't laughed that hard since I was a little girl
Focus, my man, focus
I was talking about the rock and ice article about those guys dying at Tauquitz
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sticky_fingers
Mar 1, 2004, 11:25 PM
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OOOOHHHHhh so you mean you're not talking about the Climbing article on Tori Allen.....oh, right well, how'd you manage to post that here?
2 trad guys != 1 sport girl :lol:
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deleted
Deleted
Mar 1, 2004, 11:31 PM
Post #119 of 172
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Edit to remove offensive post. RC management.
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dredsovrn
Mar 1, 2004, 11:36 PM
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Thanks dingus. That was a good laugh.
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ctclimbz
Mar 1, 2004, 11:50 PM
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One thing that has been overlooked in this heated exchangeis a statement in the article to the effect of: her sponsors are pleased that she is branching out, taking time off, and still support her. This, to me, is the most ludicrous part. That a child phenom makes more money in her advertisements than I make working in a year, even though she is 'taking time off' is a direct statement to how much we buy into advertising, and sponsorship. The best way to make this debate go away is... to IGNORE it... if we all refused to buy products that this little girl endorses, if we climbed in jeans and t's like the hardmen climbers of yore, pre-Prana, pre-Stonewear, than this girl wouldn't be famous, nor would this debate exist!
I think, however, the most important thing to realize is that it is a boon Tori Allen is not a trad climber. I am thankful I will not see her out at the rock, and ultimately, if she is climbing for the wrong reasons, she will fade into memory, much as Katie Brown did, pre-Pilgrimage and lousy Climbing articles, and will leave the rest of us, who enjoy climbing for climbing's sake, not because some hot girl likes it, to our own devices.
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jt512
Mar 2, 2004, 12:01 AM
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In reply to: The best way to make this debate go away is... to IGNORE it... than this girl wouldn't be famous, nor would this debate exist!
So your advice is not to participate in this debate. Which debate? Oh, the one you are participating in.
In reply to: I think, however, the most important thing to realize is that it is a boon Tori Allen is not a trad climber. I am thankful I will not see her out at the rock, and ultimately, if she is climbing for the wrong reasons, she will fade into memory...
I am so thankful to have you to tell me what the right reasons for climbing are!
This girl is one of the very strongest female climbers in the U.S. Of course, she is going to be famous and be sponsored. She is obviously a serious, focused competitive athlete. What exactly is wrong with that?
-Jay
-Jay
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ctclimbz
Mar 2, 2004, 12:46 AM
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I did not get involved in the debate. I did not Tori bash, nor do I think that she deserves it. If you read closely, I believe you will see I was expressing my frustration at the commercialization of climbing, not the propogation of insulting young climbers.
As for the rest of your response... I don't recall telling you what the right reasons for climbing are, nor should I have to. I simply stated that if Ms. Allen is climbing for the wrong reasons she, like Katie Brown, will burn out and fade away.
I am also a serious, highly focused (albeit less competetive) athlete myself, and there is indeed nothing wrong with that. Where in my post did I say there was anything wrong with that mindset? Please read more carefully before firing off such responses.
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innominato
Mar 2, 2004, 1:22 AM
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In reply to: Since when has anything ever been written that isn't "slanted"? Ever read the ny times, otherwise known as propaganda for the israel?
Hey, there Goebbels, got a touch of anti-Semitism? Why don't you tone it down a notch, or better yet, fucking apologize, tough guy?
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bvb
Mar 2, 2004, 1:28 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: The best way to make this debate go away is... to IGNORE it... than this girl wouldn't be famous, nor would this debate exist! So your advice is not to participate in this debate. Which debate? Oh, the one you are participating in. In reply to: I think, however, the most important thing to realize is that it is a boon Tori Allen is not a trad climber. I am thankful I will not see her out at the rock, and ultimately, if she is climbing for the wrong reasons, she will fade into memory... I am so thankful to have you to tell me what the right reasons for climbing are! This girl is one of the very strongest female climbers in the U.S. Of course, she is going to be famous and be sponsored. She is obviously a serious, focused competitive athlete. What exactly is wrong with that? -Jay -Jay
admit it jt, you got the hots for her. perv.
and while we're at it, 5.12c placing gear is WAY harder that 5.13b clipping bolts. bust out of that rut you're in and enter the world of "well rounded" climbing. man does not live by sport climbing alone. and you're not getting any youunger, bro.
but then, neither is tori. another 3 years and you're in business. heh heh heh
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