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jakedatc
Mar 28, 2005, 2:48 PM
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Yea.. it was larry
i *think* jer much prefers starting to the right side of the block at the bottom of 3 doves instead of the left variation he did last time. but he cruised the crux this time and harsh and i followed with no problems so it was fun
2nd pitch of limelight i want to do when i'm not convulsing from the cold. but i thought the moves were outstanding.. we also got to watch the leader and 2nd of the group next to us battle through the crux of Arrow.. (did that last year, also fun)
i'm waiting for gabe's tick list from yesterday.. hopefully Wright put it to him and got on some good stuff :)
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harshklimber
Mar 28, 2005, 3:11 PM
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mmm, gunks were gooooood.
jake gave you the list, so i wont go thru that again. BUT, i will expand on a couple points this weekend. first off, thanks guys, for a great weekend; no better way to start the spring off. i would say the best pitch on saturday was the second pitch of Maria - loved the back-stepping, and stemming, which I feel like I've only had the taste of at the gym. Nice to do it on the real thing. Best pitch on Sun was the second pitch of Limelight. that traverse at the top - phew! reminded me of the Y4 traverse, but biiiit stickier. that pitch probably tops the 2nd pitch of Maria. And 3 doves - not bad at all. that one move at the top is...a nice one.
god, i love exposure. 8^)
favorite quote of the weekend - "Nice crotch, Jake." -Jer
could have done without - a rock, the size of a basketball, sent to crush my head by Jake's unforgiving foot. And all he says: "Rock. Wheeee!!" Good thing I looked up and was able to knock the rock to the ground. I'll get you for that, Jake.
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orangekyak
Mar 28, 2005, 6:39 PM
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In reply to: mmm, gunks were gooooood.
Yes, they sure were. I'll check the camera tomorrow and see about posting some here.
We had the whole Arrow area to ourselves most of Sunday. Saturday was a nice day. I'm glad it's going to continue getting warmer.
That second pitch of Limelight is worth the price of admission. Sweet climbing and moves with excellent gear. Loved it.
Three Doves is a heartier meal than I was planning for, but I was feeling it and it was FUN!!!
A great way to start the season. LEt's go back SOON!!!
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harshklimber
Mar 28, 2005, 7:54 PM
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Jake/Jer - pm me your email addresses so i can send you the album...
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cracklover
Mar 29, 2005, 1:31 AM
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In reply to: Like the shameless rockslut I am, I've returned to beg for partners... If anyone would like to climb at Pawtuckaway or Rumney tomorrow, please let me know. I've got a bum hip and will be taking it easy but can still belay/spot/keep you company.
Hey, what's wrong w/ your hip? And are you climbing, or looking for some other kind of partner. 'Cause last I heard you were still under age. ;)
Seriouly, though... How much longer are you around? Do you leave the east coast after this semester, or are you around for the summer? What's the prognosis for your hip?
GO
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cracklover
Mar 29, 2005, 2:30 AM
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In reply to: That second pitch of Limelight is worth the price of admission. Sweet climbing and moves with excellent gear. Loved it.
Hah! Julia got lost on that pitch last time we went there, and wound up doing some marginally protectable 5.9 moves. :shock: When I followed, I went up the way the guidebook said to go - and enjoyed the pitch very much. I agree, that second pitch is stellar!
In reply to: Three Doves is a heartier meal than I was planning for, but I was feeling it and it was FUN!!!
Hahahaha! Try it in December sometime with puddles of sub-freezing icewater coating key holds!
In reply to: A great way to start the season. LEt's go back SOON!!!
Indeed.
Someone asked about my weekend.
Well, saturday I solo-aided Kansas City. For those who don't know, Kansas City is the first route you see when you start walking into the Near Trapps. Notable feature: the 20 foot roof. That was so much fun, I did it again. Nearly couldn't pull the last move on the roof the second time, I was so exhausted.
Sunday I failed trying to lead the second pitch of Directissima. I blew all my strength in protecting the hand traverse, and had nothing left for the hard moves up to the next stance. Here are my excuses: 1 - the gym sucks, and didn't really keep me in shape over the winter for real rock; 2 - didn't have the head for the game after a winter of not touching trad leads; 3 - was still tired from my longest marathon of solo-aiding to date the previous day; 4 - I don't climb well in the cold, never have; 5 - with a stronger partner on the other end of the rope, it was just too easy to turn the lead over to him after falling repeatedly. But sweep all the crap off the table and one truth is clear, I just didn't have it in me that day. I did lead the last pitch - the High E pitch - with no problems. It's certainly a fun one.
Then after I'd wasted all that time on Directissima, we didn't have a lot of time left, but Wright led Simple Suff - and led it with ease. Very impressive. For a technical master like he is, that climb played right into his hands. Par for the course for my day - I didn't even follow it cleanly. I'm quite certain I could have, as the stems felt great to me, but I couldn't get a nut out.
The rest of the season is still ahead of me. We'll see what adventures it brings.
Jeremy, Harsh, and Jake, thanks for the great company, and, um, stuff. 8^)
GO
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harshklimber
Mar 29, 2005, 2:39 PM
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I was thinking this AM, we forgot to mention the fun time we had saturday night, when we met up with Gabe. Good food, good beer and good... stuff.
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subtle
Mar 29, 2005, 4:04 PM
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Hmmmm...apparently if you rate a picture a '10', it goes right to the front page...that's unfortunate...poor planning on my part.
Allez. D'oh! Homard.
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robbovius
Mar 29, 2005, 9:18 PM
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The Bulge is Framed.
In order to deal with an impending sucking black hole of depression, I bailed outta work at 12:30 and came home to thrash on the attic wallie. I have successfully used up just about all my $45 worth of 2x4s (only a few scraps left, none more than 5-8 inches long), and the result of that and my sweat is the completed framing of the two adjacent walls in the pic a page back, WITH the infamous bulge feature. Covering can now begin. psyche. fun project.
jake, the bulge makes a serious sit start obstacle.
mebbe I'll git some batteries for the crappy digicam and shoot some pics tonight.
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havmpt
Mar 30, 2005, 12:15 AM
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Rob- Yea!! :D
Gabe- you know I am fond of the expression; excuses are like buttholes, everyone has one and they all stink. Do you have 5 sphincters?? :shock: Scratch that, I dontwannaknow. :P P.S. I know I have been neglecting the crew at the Y, how's 4/12 work for an evening out??
Glad to hear everyone had a great first weekend of real spring. I was moving. :x Four blocks away. As such, I am writing all this from work (where I stayed late to do so) as our internet will not be completed until Fri. SO, don't everyone write at once, I won't be able to catch up! :)
Cheers!
Holly- aka pregnant beer wench
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ambler
Mar 30, 2005, 1:07 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: You've read "drinking from the fire hydrant," haven't you? Fair warning! Yup, but I've also seen enough of his partner for that particular adventure to recognize that it takes two to tango. Oh, he and Yulia should get along famously! Maybe she'll even scare him! :lol:
Hmm, come to think of it, AC is the guy we climbed Three Doves with, on that same icy day you & I did Limelight. It all goes around.
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cracklover
Mar 30, 2005, 4:32 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: You've read "drinking from the fire hydrant," haven't you? Fair warning! Yup, but I've also seen enough of his partner for that particular adventure to recognize that it takes two to tango. Oh, he and Yulia should get along famously! Maybe she'll even scare him! :lol: Then there was the Dragon's Tail epic...I'm certain Yulia would not be like AC's partner on that one. Hmm, come to think of it, AC is the guy we climbed Three Doves with, on that same icy day you & I did Limelight. It all goes around.
EXACTLY! Between my experience with him that day, my understanding of him through that trip report on r.c, and the hydrant's tale, it becomes clear that AC is as nuts as, well, as Yulia maybe? I think she and LdA will get along just fine. :lol:
GO
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rhonius
Mar 30, 2005, 1:22 PM
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Anyone interested in hitting up QQ this afternoon/evening....??
AAron
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orangekyak
Mar 30, 2005, 3:28 PM
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In reply to: Sunday I failed trying to lead the second pitch of Directissima. I blew all my strength in protecting the hand traverse, and had nothing left for the hard moves up to the next stance. Here are my excuses: 1 - the gym sucks, and didn't really keep me in shape over the winter for real rock; 2 - didn't have the head for the game after a winter of not touching trad leads; 3 - was still tired from my longest marathon of solo-aiding to date the previous day; 4 - I don't climb well in the cold, never have; 5 - with a stronger partner on the other end of the rope, it was just too easy to turn the lead over to him after falling repeatedly. But sweep all the crap off the table and one truth is clear, I just didn't have it in me that day. I did lead the last pitch - the High E pitch - with no problems. It's certainly a fun one.
Great excuses. I'm buying it. Didn't I tell you that there was a long move with marginal feet there? For a crux that is still among tree branches, it's an intimidating postition that is to be respected. Did you fall on one of the pins or your own gear? Screamer?
You forgot the best excuse "7 - spent seven hours solo aiding in the cool shade the day before."
Sounds like Wright knows no mercy. Directissima sure doesn't, either.
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ambler
Mar 30, 2005, 4:00 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Sunday I failed trying to lead the second pitch of Directissima. I blew all my strength in protecting the hand traverse, and had nothing left for the hard moves up to the next stance. Here are my excuses: 1 - the gym sucks, and didn't really keep me in shape over the winter for real rock; 2 - didn't have the head for the game after a winter of not touching trad leads; 3 - was still tired from my longest marathon of solo-aiding to date the previous day; 4 - I don't climb well in the cold, never have; 5 - with a stronger partner on the other end of the rope, it was just too easy to turn the lead over to him after falling repeatedly. But sweep all the crap off the table and one truth is clear, I just didn't have it in me that day. I did lead the last pitch - the High E pitch - with no problems. It's certainly a fun one. Great excuses. I'm buying it. Didn't I tell you that there was a long move with marginal feet there? For a crux that is still among tree branches, it's an intimidating postition that is to be respected. Did you fall on one of the pins or your own gear? Screamer? .... Sounds like Wright knows no mercy. Directissima sure doesn't, either.
Now BRD, that seemed stout for the grade.
"The older I get, the better I was." -- George Hurley
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jakedatc
Mar 30, 2005, 5:38 PM
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Anyone free for rumney tomorrow? 50 and sunny.. after 55 and sunny today a ton of stuff should be dry
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robbovius
Mar 30, 2005, 6:20 PM
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TD, talk to me about drilling rocks for wallie holds. Picked up a few this lunchtime hiking a local conservation land trail. Got various sizes from toe chips to fist-sized-plus jugs.
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flexdex
Mar 30, 2005, 6:34 PM
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So nice out side ... Busted out of work ... going to Crow Hill to look around. Should be there for awhile if anyone is in the area.
White Pontiac GA GT ... PM for CEll number but will probably be to late as I am leaving in 30 min or so.
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harshklimber
Mar 30, 2005, 7:02 PM
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That reminds me - I have 3 rocks sitting in my apt (from the Gunks) - for all of you glorious ppl with bouldering walls. Gotta get those to you guys sometime...
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robbovius
Mar 30, 2005, 9:20 PM
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In reply to: That reminds me - I have 3 rocks sitting in my apt (from the Gunks) - for all of you glorious ppl with bouldering walls. Gotta get those to you guys sometime...
one for each of us? or all three for me? those other guys already HAVE a buncha holds. Comparitively, I'm "hold-poor". ;-)
of course, I might find out that drilling real rocks is more of a pain in the butt than I want to deal with ;-/
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harshklimber
Mar 30, 2005, 9:48 PM
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Yes, Rob, one for EACH of you. You gotta learn to share, dude. :wink:
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cracklover
Mar 30, 2005, 11:48 PM
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Re. Directissima - I'll reserve judgement about whether it's soft or hard for the grade until I send it. One thing is certain though - it was harder than I was. Oh, and Jeremy - I didn't skip that excuse - see excuse #3! Oh, and as for what I fell on - it was a red Zero cam (same size as the yellow Metolius TCU). Fall on the pins? Yikes - no thanks! The first pin looks okay, but the second one looks like it might be literally fifty years old or more. It's one of those old ring pin ones, and the ring has rusted to the approximate diameter of a toothpick. It's a nice piece of history, nothing more.
Oh, and Larry, there's a world of difference between leading and following that pitch. Or was your 12 yo son leading it? ;)
Bonnie's Roof Direct - that'll go this year... if I can get my shit together.
GO
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ambler
Mar 31, 2005, 1:39 AM
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In reply to: Oh, and Larry, there's a world of difference between leading and following that pitch. Or was your 12 yo son leading it? ;)
In reply to: Bonnie's Roof Direct - that'll go this year... if I can get my s--- together.
But you might find their relative difficulties reversed, there's no telling.
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orangekyak
Mar 31, 2005, 1:49 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Bonnie's Roof Direct - that'll go this year... if I can get my s--- together. As Jer can attest, I made inelegant work of that one. On first try, ended up dangling from the roof by one hand jam.
In reply to: But you might find their relative difficulties reversed, there's no telling. |
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