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jakedatc
May 23, 2007, 11:14 PM
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HAHA awesome.. you going to get some hair extensions and rock the dread skullet like Kehl? (i'd say shave the front of your head but you got that under control  )
128.. how are you supposed to climb with that much weight? (i don't get there with a full harness of draws... i checked for giggles)
dave graham style4lyfe
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jammer
May 24, 2007, 12:18 AM
Post #127 of 219
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Nice pic Jake! Can't picture Bill that skinny! 
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jakedatc
May 24, 2007, 12:47 AM
Post #128 of 219
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to be clear that's a Jason Kehl edit job/creation
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blueeyedclimber
May 24, 2007, 1:16 AM
Post #129 of 219
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Speaking of the main wall, I heard that the falcons didn't nest there this year so it's open. Is that true?
If so, hello Rap Echo.
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losbill
May 24, 2007, 1:23 AM
Post #130 of 219
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Josh its true. They are up on the Summit Cliff.
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jammer
May 24, 2007, 1:28 AM
Post #131 of 219
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Speaking of the main wall, I heard that the falcons didn't nest there this year so it's open. Is that true? If so, hello Rap Echo.
Can you hear it??? Listen closely ...
can josh come out to play?
Did ya hear it?
Yup, they're up top! Nice of them to give us the main wall back, even if it's for just this year!
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ratherbe
May 24, 2007, 1:47 AM
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I might be in for both the Ruckus and a Friday Trad-day. I won't know for sure for a couple weeks.
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ottabox
May 24, 2007, 9:44 PM
Post #133 of 219
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It looks like I will be pulling in on Sunday afternoon. Hope there are a few souls who are not in a total state of recovery.
Instead of bandit camping I would like to camp in the field. Who's house do I knock on and how much is for one night?
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jakedatc
May 24, 2007, 10:57 PM
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Otto check the first page of this thread for directions to Alan's friends house.
Hey guys, Kate will not be able to go, so I will be needing more partners than originally thought. Gabe.. i know i have you and Al down for a while at least.. Alan and Bill i definitely will rope up with. I guess i'll figure the rest out when we get up there.
Looks like i'm going up next weekend for some clippin' and whippin' woo hoo bolts4lyfe
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jammer
May 24, 2007, 11:16 PM
Post #135 of 219
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Went today. It was beautiful and not that crowded. Smooth sailing all day. Anne(climbinganne) and Troy (pornstar)Shaw were up form NC with their kids. Nice family and great kids. Erica, a friend of theirs joined us and Caleb, my nephew, came with me. Great time for all! I like weekdays at Rumney!! Can't wait til the new guide book comes out ...
Edited cause charley told me the names ... from one ol timer to another ... tanks!
(This post was edited by jammer on May 27, 2007, 1:42 PM)
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jammer
May 24, 2007, 11:18 PM
Post #136 of 219
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Like Jake said, spend the night with us. We don't have to be out until Monday night.
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jammer
Jun 1, 2007, 12:45 PM
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OK ... this thread needs to be revived! I suspect a lot of you will be coming from the "City", and we all know there are a lot more climbers out there that do not frequent this site, so spread the word!
Only a couple of weeks away.
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kimmyt
Jun 1, 2007, 2:55 PM
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I just wanted to let you know that you guys will have wonderful weather because I won't be there and New Hampshire hates me.
Have fun, don't worry if there's a drought just give me a call and I will bring some of my regional flooding magic up your way!!
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olderic
Jun 1, 2007, 9:13 PM
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Just a few comments/corrections/questions:
1. Josh - how do you call Clippity DD a TRAD route. It's as bolted at the month is long. And Holderness School Corner is a nice pitch - so there.
2. Jake - There was 1 bolt on the original NMD. You can still see the remins of the stud. A little lower then the retro 4th bolt.
3. Jake & Josh - the pins at the top of Sky Pilot aren't actually taht old < 5 years I think. Doesn't mean that they aren't many and shouldn't be backed up.
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wonderwoman
Jun 1, 2007, 9:27 PM
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olderic wrote: 1. Josh - how do you call Clippity DD a TRAD route. It's as bolted at the month is long. And Holderness School Corner is a nice pitch - so there.
I think he's getting clippity do dah confused with 'bolt line'. I think he means whatever that crack is in the right corner over there. You're right, though. It would be a pretty silly misnomer for any trad route to be called 'bolt' line or 'clippity' do dah, huh?
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jakedatc
Jun 2, 2007, 5:20 AM
Post #142 of 219
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I think you're both confused because Bolt Line is a 5.8 slab (not a crack on it) at the meadows.. Clippity is a bolted line at Jimmy Left.. Pine tree crack and Standard route are the trad routes at Jimmy to the L and R of Clippity and Beginners route is the 5.5 trad line to the R of Bolt line
Eric thanks for the info on NMD.. It's not high on my list to try the original way. That's good the pins are not ancient on Sky pilot.. and yea a back up might be a good idea.
bailed on rumney again this weekend due to 60% tstorms and rain.. so maybe next weekend for a nice warm up for the ruckus. just kicked my ass at the gym working endurance and power while tired soo..
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olderic
Jun 3, 2007, 1:37 AM
Post #143 of 219
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jakedatc wrote: bailed on rumney again this weekend due to 60% tstorms and rain.. so maybe next weekend for a nice warm up for the ruckus. just kicked my ass at the gym working endurance and power while tired soo..
Rachel reports that Rumney was A-OK today. Never the less Zeb (Mr. anti-plastic) and I hid at MR late this afternoon. As usual Zeb onsighted everthing there "worthy of his attention" in < 60 minutes....
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jakedatc
Jun 3, 2007, 1:50 AM
Post #144 of 219
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meh.. not worth a 3+ hour gamble..
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zimzam
Jun 4, 2007, 1:45 AM
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Yarrr! 3 mo' weeks. Can't wait. Son in law coming from VT to provide the tunes? Denny you'll love the PNW. See you all there. Alan thanks for the reserved parking!
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cracklover
Jun 4, 2007, 2:46 PM
Post #146 of 219
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olderic wrote: Just a few comments/corrections/questions: 1. Josh - how do you call Clippity DD a TRAD route. It's as bolted at the month is long. And Holderness School Corner is a nice pitch - so there.
I think it was me who said Holderness Corner was not a great line, and I stand by that. It's not terrible, but it's not worth bringing a rack for (IMHO).
Hey, does anyone know the name and rating of the new line at Main Cliff that is just right of Armed and Dangerous and Off My Medication? I've heard it's around 11a?
GO
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 4, 2007, 3:57 PM
Post #147 of 219
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cracklover wrote: olderic wrote: Just a few comments/corrections/questions: 1. Josh - how do you call Clippity DD a TRAD route. It's as bolted at the month is long. And Holderness School Corner is a nice pitch - so there. I think it was me who said Holderness Corner was not a great line, and I stand by that. It's not terrible, but it's not worth bringing a rack for (IMHO). Hey, does anyone know the name and rating of the new line at Main Cliff that is just right of Armed and Dangerous and Off My Medication? I've heard it's around 11a? GO
Yes, that was you. i was very confused for a few minutes until I went back and found your quote.
And I told you it was 11a. I think it's name is Claustrophobia, but I am not sure.
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 4, 2007, 4:01 PM
Post #148 of 219
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jakedatc wrote: meh.. not worth a 3+ hour gamble..
Too bad, Jake. I climbed both days. Sent Debbie Does CPR, Captain Fingers and got closer on Rap Echo and Wevil Kneevil.
Was a good weekend.
Remember peeps, Thunderstorms are usually local weather systems and have very good chances of lasting a very short time or missing you all together. I will take that gamble every time.
Josh
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jakedatc
Jun 4, 2007, 4:15 PM
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"The route to the right of Armed is called Clusterphobia" -mark S they call it 10d on MP. also don't forget to bring extra draws(3?) on A&D to do the extra extension that is more good ol' jug haulin :)
yea josh.. shoulda gone for it.. i cant change it now tho.. will go this weekend i hope instead.
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 5, 2007, 2:20 PM
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jakedatc wrote: "The route to the right of Armed is called Clusterphobia" -mark S they call it 10d on MP. also don't forget to bring extra draws(3?) on A&D to do the extra extension that is more good ol' jug haulin :) yea josh.. shoulda gone for it.. i cant change it now tho.. will go this weekend i hope instead.
I did Armed and Dangerous for the first time in like 3 years and I thought the only reason they extended it out left of the original anchors was to make more of a straight line so you can clean it. It certainly didn't add anything to the climb. It was chossy and like 5.4
Josh
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