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jt512
Jun 14, 2010, 5:04 AM
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: Mt. Rubidoux is the best bouldering, probably in the country.
"Country" or "county"?
Never mind, it's not true either way.
Jay
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curt
Jun 14, 2010, 5:30 AM
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jt512 wrote: quiteatingmysteak wrote: Mt. Rubidoux is the best bouldering, probably in the country. "Country" or "county"? Never mind, it's not true either way. Jay
+1
Curt
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quiteatingmysteak
Jun 14, 2010, 6:19 AM
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jbone wrote: quiteatingmysteak wrote: Mt. Rubidoux is the best bouldering, probably in the country.You should check this one place out near El Paso Texas. They call it Hueco Tanks and it is the best bouldering on the continent.
No way i heard its fenced off and the cops won't let u climb the PCP boulder or something.
I changed my vote to UC Santa Barbera, english and literature wing. Some SICK crimping on iron hard brick retaining walls, probably the best in the Cuntry.
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camhead
Jun 14, 2010, 12:39 PM
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Well, this is kind of a stupid thread, both because of the obvious qualitative problems of defining an are as "beat," and also because state boundaries can be very contrived, with no regard to natural dividing lines.
Hueco Tanks is a good example of this: it is ten hours from over 90% of Texas's population, and is as far west as Denver or Albuquerque. But because it happens to fall under some contrived political boundaries, Texans can proudly claim it as their own, and as an example of the wonderful climbing that exemplifies the lone star state.
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j_ung
Jun 14, 2010, 12:42 PM
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jbone wrote: quiteatingmysteak wrote: Mt. Rubidoux is the best bouldering, probably in the country.You should check this one place out near El Paso Texas. They call it Hueco Tanks and it is the best bouldering on the continent.
He also missed Yosemite.
Edit: D'oh! A dumbass, I am. Trolled, I was.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jun 14, 2010, 12:44 PM)
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sethg
Jun 14, 2010, 2:09 PM
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This is kind of a silly thread. If you just go on mountainproject.com you'll see every major climbing area for every state that has a major climbing area.
It doesn't look like anyone from New York has bothered to answer.
For the best concentrated trad climbing in one place I think it's pretty hard to beat the Gunks, although I'm sure there are folks who would make a case for the Chapel Pond area in the 'Dacks or Poke-O.
The best bouldering is also probably in the Gunks, especially with the new area that's about to open up, although again there are some bouldering areas in the 'Dacks that maybe someone will make a case for. I haven't bouldered in the 'Dacks so I can't really say.
The best sport climbing in NY? There is a climb called Sente with three bolts on it. Pretty nice thin face climb, if short.
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ConverseClimber
Jun 14, 2010, 2:26 PM
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Pennsylvania-
uhhhhhh...
Haycock for bouldering. Some very awesome climbs on rock that isnt found everywhere. Diabase (which is what your climbing on) can only be found in PA and South Africa. like, what?
Stony Ridge for sport and trad. Real short routes but AWESOME climbs and friction. some sweet finger cracks too. routes are only 30-40 feet though.
And i guess ill list Birdsboro since thats the only other place in PA ive been. its pretty cool but its a quarry so its a choss pile haha.
Hope this helps, Bro!
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dolphja
Jun 14, 2010, 3:03 PM
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climb4free wrote: I am working on a Geography Project and would appreciate your input. I am looking to map out the TOP climbing areas in all 50 states. I understand that with some states this will be harder than others. But please don't neglect to answer for some of the more obscure states like Florida, Nebraska, etc. Please indulge me with your opinion on the following questions: (1) US State you live in or climb in most often. (2) Your Top 1 - 3 technical climbing areas (please indicate dominate style i.e. Trad, Sport, Boulder) Aid, Alpine, and Ice are not needed. (3) Why you feel these are the top areas of the state. Thank you for your time and input
Missouri- it's a tossup really. Andromeda has some really cool sport and trad lines, & Scheuler Ferry is probably the best sport crag in the state. For bouldering, Swope park & Earthquake Hollow are pretty neck & neck as far as quality. Anyone else got a take on this?
Minnesota- i gotta give Barn Bluff it's props for Sport Routes. Blue Mounds State Park though... 2 mile long cliff, not 1 bolt & ALL TRAD!!! Gotta love it! 
(This post was edited by dolphja on Jun 14, 2010, 3:05 PM)
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welle
Jun 14, 2010, 3:25 PM
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edge wrote: New Hampshire: Trad: Cathedral/Whitehorse. (Close enough together to be included as one) Sport: Rumney. Bouldering: Pawtuckaway.
I personally would skip Rumney and go to Cannon.
New York:
Gunks and Adirondacks
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kovacs69
Jun 14, 2010, 3:33 PM
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acorneau wrote: Texas: Enchanted Rock (trad) Hueco Tanks (bouldering) Erock is the center of Texas climbing Hueco Tanks is pretty self-explanatory
Dude you forgot Reimers Ranch for sport climbing. Personally I don't like Reimers but it is a very popular sport climbing destination in Texas.
I second Enchanted Rock for Trad and some Sport and Hueco for bouldering.
JB
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edge
Jun 14, 2010, 4:22 PM
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welle wrote: edge wrote: New Hampshire: Trad: Cathedral/Whitehorse. (Close enough together to be included as one) Sport: Rumney. Bouldering: Pawtuckaway. I personally would skip Rumney and go to Cannon. New York: Gunks and Adirondacks
I always do. However, Rumney was included as NH's best sport area. Cannon has no sport.
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welle
Jun 14, 2010, 4:31 PM
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Yeah, I just thought out of destination climbing point of view for somebody coming from afar. As from coming from NYC perspective, if I'm driving that far, I might as well go up to Cannon or N. Conway...
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welle
Jun 14, 2010, 5:51 PM
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sethg wrote: The best sport climbing in NY? There is a climb called Sente with three bolts on it. Pretty nice thin face climb, if short.
Shantytown in Southern Adirondacks is supposed to have good concentration of quality bolted routes. Also Bouldering on Snowy Mountain is supposedly world class. But as in my argument against Rumney in NH, just couple of exits north brings you to some quality trad climbing, so it makes it hard to recommend these as destination climbing areas.
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patmay81
Jun 14, 2010, 6:24 PM
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redlude97 wrote: Oregon 1. Smith-Sport 2. Carver-Bouldering 3. Broughton-Trad/Sport/Mixed
I am not arguing about the awesomeness of carver or broughton, both are fun places to climb, but not must climb destinations.
There is more trad at smith (and in my opinion better trad). There is more bouldering at Sisters or smith for that matter, or even at widgi/meadowcamp/the depot/bach boulders (all along the deschutes in bend with in a few miles) than at carver.
I'd say if there is one destination in oregon that is a "must climb" area it is smith and smith alone.
I do climb all over oregon though. But for an out of stater there's not much else thats worth the trip.
If we are adding alpine rock to the mix my fav's are 3FJ and washington (they have actual 5th class pitches with decent rock and great exposure)
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redlude97
Jun 14, 2010, 6:38 PM
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Totally agree, Smith is the only worthwhile destination to make a trip to the state for, but the OP asked for the top 3 spots, so I had to pick some.
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wmfork
Jun 14, 2010, 6:41 PM
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I don't think the OP asked for a destination for each type of style (trad, sport, boulder), just 1-3 areas and the dominant style of each area. Still, I see nobody is attempting the list for CA, UT, CO, WY or one of the other states with a lot of climbing areas.
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patmay81
Jun 14, 2010, 7:42 PM
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yeah, i understand that. I just didn't explain clearly.
1. sport- smith
2. trad- smith
3. bouldering- smith, sisters, deschutes r. in bend
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pdx_climber
Jun 14, 2010, 9:23 PM
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patmay81 wrote: redlude97 wrote: Oregon 1. Smith-Sport 2. Carver-Bouldering 3. Broughton-Trad/Sport/Mixed I am not arguing about the awesomeness of carver or broughton, both are fun places to climb, but not must climb destinations. There is more trad at smith (and in my opinion better trad). There is more bouldering at Sisters or smith for that matter, or even at widgi/meadowcamp/the depot/bach boulders (all along the deschutes in bend with in a few miles) than at carver. I'd say if there is one destination in oregon that is a "must climb" area it is smith and smith alone. I do climb all over oregon though. But for an out of stater there's not much else thats worth the trip. If we are adding alpine rock to the mix my fav's are 3FJ and washington (they have actual 5th class pitches with decent rock and great exposure)
I take it you guys haven't heard of Trout Creek?
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patmay81
Jun 14, 2010, 9:42 PM
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yes I've climbed trout creek, not a lot of variation there. it is a fun place to climb though. aside from the "long" approach, its great.
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mushroom
Jun 14, 2010, 11:28 PM
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Wyoming! --Generally the climbing is very bad and your time would be better spent climbing in CO or CA or even MD. But if you had to climb something I've found these to be better-than-shitty:
Sport: Ten Sleep
800+ sport routes with room for thousands more on beautiful limestone. Get the guidebook in Ten Sleep, WY at Dirty Sally's Ice Cream Shop
Bouldering: Cedar Mountain
800 (seems to be the magic number around here, eh?) boulder problems on sandstone. Get the guidebook at the Beta Coffee House in Cody, WY (across the street from the Irma Hotel patio, adjacent to Main St.). Get some beta from the owner and guidebook writer, Mike Snyder, while you're there.
Trad: Terrible everywhere.
enjoi!
(This post was edited by mushroom on Jun 15, 2010, 2:57 AM)
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vegastradguy
Jun 14, 2010, 11:58 PM
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wmfork wrote: I don't think the OP asked for a destination for each type of style (trad, sport, boulder), just 1-3 areas and the dominant style of each area. Still, I see nobody is attempting the list for CA, UT, CO, WY or one of the other states with a lot of climbing areas.
dude, theres no worthwhile climbing in any of those states. might as well leave them off the list altogether.
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patmay81
Jun 15, 2010, 12:11 AM
Post #48 of 102
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vegastradguy wrote: wmfork wrote: I don't think the OP asked for a destination for each type of style (trad, sport, boulder), just 1-3 areas and the dominant style of each area. Still, I see nobody is attempting the list for CA, UT, CO, WY or one of the other states with a lot of climbing areas. dude, theres no worthwhile climbing in any of those states. might as well leave them off the list altogether.
I've certainly never seen any need nor had the desire to drive that far south/east for the choss ridden roadside crags down/over there.
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DoctorSalt
Jun 15, 2010, 2:46 AM
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Is there even any good sport in MA, short of... Farley?
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swoopee
Jun 15, 2010, 2:41 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: North Carolina I was going to do a list, but I couldn't stop and ended up with 6 areas. If I had to narrow it to two, I'd say Laurel Knob is the destination in NC with Linville Gorge a close second. LK has been a secret for decades and it was actually illegal to climb there during most of it's early development. Recently the CCC made an unprecedented move and PURCHASED the cliff! Amazing work on the access front and a very cool history make this place intriguing. Then there's the climbing. It's the biggest face (1000ft) east of the Mississippi and it has dozens and dozens of routes at all grades. I think Linville Gorge is the centerpiece of the state for climbing and many activities. It is probably the wildest area of it's size in this part of the country and there is a lot of adventure to be had. Hundreds of climbs at all grades throughout the Gorge, mostly from the same access point. Loads of potential for new exploration as well. One of the most beautiful areas that I've ever climbed. Nearly all of the climbing areas in NC could be on this list. Besides great climbing, the local communities and the ethics that are upheld make the areas all wonderful. So I'm quoting myself here 'cuz I came back and read and realized that there must be a bouldering destination. I don't do much of it but bouldering has become HUGE in NC. The Boone area is the center of bouldering, but Rumbling Bald is said to be one of the classic bouldering areas of the east. The CCC has also stepped up to keep access open, and there is excellent trad climbing there as well, with some of the best cracks in the east. SO, Rumbling Bald has to be #3 on the list.
Rumbling Bald is great, and I'd agree that you could probably put all NC climbing areas on the list, with Crowder's Mtn and Pilot Mtn being at the bottom, of course.
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