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climb4free
Jun 12, 2010, 7:11 PM
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I am working on a Geography Project and would appreciate your input. I am looking to map out the TOP climbing areas in all 50 states. I understand that with some states this will be harder than others. But please don't neglect to answer for some of the more obscure states like Florida, Nebraska, etc.
Please indulge me with your opinion on the following questions:
(1) US State you live in or climb in most often.
(2) Your Top 1 - 3 technical climbing areas (please indicate dominate style i.e. Trad, Sport, Boulder) Aid, Alpine, and Ice are not needed.
(3) Why you feel these are the top areas of the state.
Thank you for your time and input
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oklahoma
Jun 12, 2010, 7:43 PM
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Trad and sport - Wichita mountains in the wichitas National Wildlife Refuge. Some people will argue for quartz mountain but I personally like the wichitas. More rock, more diversity in climbs, better protection. I love the views also. Meer's Market has the best burgers in the state located just outside the park!
bouldering - Chandler Park. It's got history, it's got it's own unique style, and it's located in a major metro area. The first v12 that was climbed in North America is in Chandler (the North American) Some people hate it cause it's polished but it'll make your fingers strong as hell!
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shrug7
Jun 12, 2010, 8:27 PM
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Illinois - Southern Illinois Drapers Bluff (before it was closed) but now... Jackson Falls
Also for Wisconsin: Devil's Lake
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acorneau
Jun 12, 2010, 9:38 PM
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Texas:
Enchanted Rock (trad)
Hueco Tanks (bouldering)
Erock is the center of Texas climbing
Hueco Tanks is pretty self-explanatory
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edge
Jun 12, 2010, 10:33 PM
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New Hampshire:
Trad: Cathedral/Whitehorse. (Close enough together to be included as one)
Sport: Rumney.
Bouldering: Pawtuckaway.
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moose_droppings
Jun 12, 2010, 11:34 PM
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Rad climbing.
The faces on Mt Rushmore.
Good, solid top anchors and you'll even get a ride into town, possibly before you top out.
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vegastradguy
Jun 13, 2010, 12:52 AM
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Red Rock- top destination for all types of climbing.
Mt Charleston, known for sport climbing.
Nothing major after that- everything else is pretty small.
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oldsalt
Jun 13, 2010, 12:55 AM
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Florida! I would ignore the post for obvious reasons, but you did want 50 responses...
The landfill on the north side of Jacksonville gives you a decent class 3 scramble, but it's so chossy!
Still, you can sometimes find an old Twinky or something.
There is a site that lists the highest 50 "mountains" in Florida. It is worded as if it is about Colorado...
http://www.mountainzone.com/...ghest-peaks.asp?s=FL
This same site may have everything you need for other states.
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redlude97
Jun 13, 2010, 1:51 AM
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Since I'm originally from Oregon but now live in Washington I can answer for both.
Oregon
1. Smith-Sport
2. Carver-Bouldering
3. Broughton-Trad/Sport/Mixed
Washington
1. Leavenworth-Trad/Bouldering/Sport
2. Index-Trad
3. North Bend-Sport
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aspiringloser
Jun 13, 2010, 2:12 AM
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Tishomingo State Park. Trad, toprope, and bouldering. No bolts. It is the only thing in Mississippi. I wouldn't advise a roadtrip here. :p
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climb4free
Jun 13, 2010, 2:18 AM
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Great Stuff Everybody, keep it coming!!
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jt512
Jun 13, 2010, 2:39 AM
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climb4free wrote: Great Stuff Everybody, keep it coming!!
Wouldn't it be easier just to buy a copy of Rock and Road?
Jay
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petsfed
Jun 13, 2010, 3:08 AM
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jt512 wrote: climb4free wrote: Great Stuff Everybody, keep it coming!! Wouldn't it be easier just to buy a copy of Rock and Road? Jay
Well, it is a bit out of date, at least in terms of development levels.
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rtwilli4
Jun 13, 2010, 6:03 AM
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North Carolina
I was going to do a list, but I couldn't stop and ended up with 6 areas. If I had to narrow it to two, I'd say Laurel Knob is the destination in NC with Linville Gorge a close second.
LK has been a secret for decades and it was actually illegal to climb there during most of it's early development. Recently the CCC made an unprecedented move and PURCHASED the cliff! Amazing work on the access front and a very cool history make this place intriguing.
Then there's the climbing. It's the biggest face (1000ft) east of the Mississippi and it has dozens and dozens of routes at all grades.
I think Linville Gorge is the centerpiece of the state for climbing and many activities. It is probably the wildest area of it's size in this part of the country and there is a lot of adventure to be had. Hundreds of climbs at all grades throughout the Gorge, mostly from the same access point. Loads of potential for new exploration as well. One of the most beautiful areas that I've ever climbed.
Nearly all of the climbing areas in NC could be on this list. Besides great climbing, the local communities and the ethics that are upheld make the areas all wonderful.
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j_ung
Jun 13, 2010, 2:02 PM
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WV probably has two worth noting here: Seneca Rock and the New River Gorge, which includes the Meadow and Gauley Gorges. Seneca is mostly a trad destination. I include it because it's where a lot of regional folks really learned to climb in an adventurous environment. It has a long, storied history and a reputation that intimidates, and yet still draws people in droves from the surrounding major metro areas. The New is tops for single-pitch trad and sport, which you can often find living together side by side on the same crag in perfect harmony. The outstanding rock quality, variety and technical nature of much of the climbing here don't hurt either. The shear quantity of starred classics is almost overwhelming and there's still plenty of high-quality potential for those who want to explore off the beaten path.
I've often said that the NRG is also the top bouldering area in the region... if people only realized it. (I'll reluctantly stop shy of calling it potentially the best on the entire east coast.) Some folks consider the high-gorge boulders to be too featured to support mass hard bouldering, but the river-side boulders are another story entirely. Sorry NC boulderers, but if the area ever sees the development it's capable of sustaining, it may rival or even beat Boone for both quality and quantity.
Here's a sample:
http://www.louderthan11.com/?p=925
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jun 13, 2010, 2:04 PM)
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davetheman
Jun 13, 2010, 9:45 PM
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Heyman. I can't really answer your questions well, BUT I have heard of some "secret" places to climb in Fl. Not the best of quality and I can't even remember the names other than they're around the panhandle... but I must admit they sound pretty f'n cool. Search google and see if you get dice on sinkhole and cave climbing in Fl. Some buddies of mine talked about a trip of theirs where they dived into sinkholes and climbed out and also repelled into a cave and climbed out. Like I said, not the best of quality...but forsure something.
(This post was edited by davetheman on Jun 13, 2010, 9:46 PM)
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 13, 2010, 9:48 PM
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VT.
lake willoughby
World class Ice
Mt Wheeler 500ft granit dome. lots of slab climbing with some steep stuff as well.
Deer leap in killington. best rock quality in the state. Single pitch trad and mixed.
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climb4free
Jun 14, 2010, 1:25 AM
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jt512 wrote: climb4free wrote: Great Stuff Everybody, keep it coming!! Wouldn't it be easier just to buy a copy of Rock and Road? Jay
Own it. I'll be cross referencing, but still looking for the "real" input from those climbing there regularly.
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Tipton
Jun 14, 2010, 1:50 AM
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State: TN
1) Sunset. Primarily Trad and the climbing is incredible. Awesome views, super easy access, and a great variety. The downside is the crowds of exceptionally rich people and lack of parking. It gets shade and wind all day so it's an awesome summer destination.
2) Tennessee Wall. Tons of routes, mostly trad. Good views and almost no one but climbers are there. No tourons to deal with. The downside is that a many of the moderate routes are left facing corners and the approach is rough. South facing, great climbing in cold weather.
3) The Obed. Lots of sport climbing variety. Biggest roofs in the South. More than 40 ft of horizontal climbing. Routes go from easy to stupid hard. There are so many different cliffs here, you can find sun in the winter and shade in the summer no problem. There's also a few decent trad routes if you don't mind the bushwhack. Many routes have an amazing view of the Obed river.
Honorable Mention:
Foster Falls has lots of sport routes and very easy access.
Big South Fork is aid climbing central and has many of Tennessee's longest routes. Lots of multi-pitch trad/aid routes in a very secluded area. The best 'Adventure Climbing' in Tennessee can be found here.
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rock_fencer
Jun 14, 2010, 2:11 AM
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State: South Carolina
Place: Table Rock State Park - South Face
Reason: Only legal place to climb if you can stand the fact that the season starts in August and ends shortly thereafter...
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mckbill
Jun 14, 2010, 2:31 AM
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For Iowa it's Pictured Rocks county park near Monticello, Iowa.
It's easy to find and there are dozens of sport routes.
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quiteatingmysteak
Jun 14, 2010, 3:52 AM
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Mt. Rubidoux is the best bouldering, probably in the country.
For trad its all about San Luis Obispo, some great stuff out there. Great tradding.
Best sport is in colorado.
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rtwilli4
Jun 14, 2010, 3:58 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote: North Carolina I was going to do a list, but I couldn't stop and ended up with 6 areas. If I had to narrow it to two, I'd say Laurel Knob is the destination in NC with Linville Gorge a close second. LK has been a secret for decades and it was actually illegal to climb there during most of it's early development. Recently the CCC made an unprecedented move and PURCHASED the cliff! Amazing work on the access front and a very cool history make this place intriguing. Then there's the climbing. It's the biggest face (1000ft) east of the Mississippi and it has dozens and dozens of routes at all grades. I think Linville Gorge is the centerpiece of the state for climbing and many activities. It is probably the wildest area of it's size in this part of the country and there is a lot of adventure to be had. Hundreds of climbs at all grades throughout the Gorge, mostly from the same access point. Loads of potential for new exploration as well. One of the most beautiful areas that I've ever climbed. Nearly all of the climbing areas in NC could be on this list. Besides great climbing, the local communities and the ethics that are upheld make the areas all wonderful.
So I'm quoting myself here 'cuz I came back and read and realized that there must be a bouldering destination. I don't do much of it but bouldering has become HUGE in NC. The Boone area is the center of bouldering, but Rumbling Bald is said to be one of the classic bouldering areas of the east. The CCC has also stepped up to keep access open, and there is excellent trad climbing there as well, with some of the best cracks in the east.
SO, Rumbling Bald has to be #3 on the list.
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billcoe_
Jun 14, 2010, 4:18 AM
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I imagine that this is going to turn into another internet argumentfest soon, but before it does, it sounds like a great project.
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jbone
Jun 14, 2010, 4:35 AM
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: Mt. Rubidoux is the best bouldering, probably in the country.
You should check this one place out near El Paso Texas.
They call it Hueco Tanks and it is the best bouldering on the continent.
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