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climbs4fun
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Feb 12, 2013, 3:33 AM
Post #97226 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: macherry wrote: cracklover wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: In an orgy of consumerism, went to teh pattagucci outlet in dillon yesterday for their 40% off already stupid cheap shit sale. Got a gnu florescent blue r1 hoody and a pair of hideous (drivel would be proud) board shorts of orange and blue houndstooth. Pictures, or it didn't happen! [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/gnuclothes.jpg[/IMG] ask and ye shall receive. The new duds are fine, but the 1960s beige fixtures and hideous dark wood cabinets have got to go. A kitchen remodel - now that's real consumerism. The economy needs you to fix up yer shabby kitchen NOW. Why you hatez America? GO is that an avocado green stove? Yes, yes it is. Our appliances and kitchen cabinets are older than we are. Faux wood paneling with plastic drawers.
My kitchen has been the same since 1957. The cabinets are all original. The appliances thankfully are new.er
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carabiner96
Feb 12, 2013, 3:37 AM
Post #97227 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
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camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: In an orgy of consumerism, went to teh pattagucci outlet in dillon yesterday for their 40% off already stupid cheap shit sale. Got a gnu florescent blue r1 hoody and a pair of hideous (drivel would be proud) board shorts of orange and blue houndstooth. Nice! When I got back from my run yesterday morning the shop owner told everyone that clinic members would get 45% off all tops in the store. The next half hour was an orgy of female shoppers stripping down to their sport bras trying on various shirts. hopefully there was no renob around Bewbs! LIbertarianism! Massive offense taken!
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Feb 12, 2013, 3:37 AM
Post #97228 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: Going ice climbing for the first time in a year. I forget how rediculously heavy ice packs are, and I didn't even bring the rope. Purpose of today is to test out new arm, which I realized today has no stop on the backswing and should whack me squarely in the back with every swing.
Ouch! Sounds like it could be painful
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Feb 12, 2013, 3:43 AM
Post #97229 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: macherry wrote: cracklover wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: In an orgy of consumerism, went to teh pattagucci outlet in dillon yesterday for their 40% off already stupid cheap shit sale. Got a gnu florescent blue r1 hoody and a pair of hideous (drivel would be proud) board shorts of orange and blue houndstooth. Pictures, or it didn't happen! [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/gnuclothes.jpg[/IMG] ask and ye shall receive. The new duds are fine, but the 1960s beige fixtures and hideous dark wood cabinets have got to go. A kitchen remodel - now that's real consumerism. The economy needs you to fix up yer shabby kitchen NOW. Why you hatez America? GO is that an avocado green stove? Yes, yes it is. Our appliances and kitchen cabinets are older than we are. Faux wood paneling with plastic drawers. I had so much fun ripping that stuff out!
I would like to paint mine. But I need to change the layout of my kitchen when I re-do it, so the cabinets cannot stay.
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dr_feelgood
Feb 12, 2013, 3:45 AM
Post #97230 of 105309
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climbs4fun wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: In an orgy of consumerism, went to teh pattagucci outlet in dillon yesterday for their 40% off already stupid cheap shit sale. Got a gnu florescent blue r1 hoody and a pair of hideous (drivel would be proud) board shorts of orange and blue houndstooth. Pictures, or it didn't happen!  ask and ye shall receive. ICT. Just wow!
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dr_feelgood
Feb 12, 2013, 3:46 AM
Post #97231 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: In an orgy of consumerism, went to teh pattagucci outlet in dillon yesterday for their 40% off already stupid cheap shit sale. Got a gnu florescent blue r1 hoody and a pair of hideous (drivel would be proud) board shorts of orange and blue houndstooth. Nice! When I got back from my run yesterday morning the shop owner told everyone that clinic members would get 45% off all tops in the store. The next half hour was an orgy of female shoppers stripping down to their sport bras trying on various shirts. hopefully there was no renob around Bewbs! LIbertarianism! Massive offense taken! did I tell you gheys someone suggested I buy renobs house for him so he could move to the mid west to live with his favorite bewbs of all?
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climbs4fun
Moderator
Feb 12, 2013, 3:51 AM
Post #97232 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: climbs4fun wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: In an orgy of consumerism, went to teh pattagucci outlet in dillon yesterday for their 40% off already stupid cheap shit sale. Got a gnu florescent blue r1 hoody and a pair of hideous (drivel would be proud) board shorts of orange and blue houndstooth. Pictures, or it didn't happen! [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/gnuclothes.jpg[/IMG] ask and ye shall receive. ICT. Just wow! Don't CT mah consumerizt Gloriez!
ICT!!!! ICT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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dr_feelgood
Feb 12, 2013, 4:01 AM
Post #97233 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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climbs4fun wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: climbs4fun wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: In an orgy of consumerism, went to teh pattagucci outlet in dillon yesterday for their 40% off already stupid cheap shit sale. Got a gnu florescent blue r1 hoody and a pair of hideous (drivel would be proud) board shorts of orange and blue houndstooth. Pictures, or it didn't happen! ask and ye shall receive. ICT. Just wow! Don't CT mah consumerizt Gloriez! ICT!!!! ICT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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carabiner96
Feb 12, 2013, 4:12 AM
Post #97234 of 105309
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epoch wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: In an orgy of consumerism, went to teh pattagucci outlet in dillon yesterday for their 40% off already stupid cheap shit sale. Got a gnu florescent blue r1 hoody and a pair of hideous (drivel would be proud) board shorts of orange and blue houndstooth. You're starting to sound like someone we know.
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dr_feelgood
Feb 12, 2013, 4:31 AM
Post #97235 of 105309
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Drinking a Sierra Nevada Estate ale to celebrate mah gloriez.
It is pretty tasty. I recommend it.
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dr_feelgood
Feb 12, 2013, 4:33 AM
Post #97236 of 105309
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Hey klikker... Did you know the pinkertons were once hired to discredit Senator Smoot as a dirty polygamist mormon?
Now you do!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 12, 2013, 2:03 PM
Post #97237 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: epoch wrote: camhead wrote: epoch wrote: lena_chita wrote: Man, I haven't had such a lazy Sunday in ages! Feels good to be lazy once in a while. Made some progress on my jean quilt. it would be nice to finally have it done, bc my "design board" is my bedroom floor. Went to the gym this afternoon to do some wall stripping and setting. The request was for a "hard" route. It is difficult for me to gauge the grade while setting, and it has happened more than once that i have planned to make a hard route and ended up with a moderate that requires some tweaking to "harden" it. So I finish setting, and ask a guy to give me a catch. Run though the route, it turned out really nice, flows well, but I think, maybe not quite hard, maybe hard minus... Which in our gym-speak corresponds to ~11b/c. Meanwhile, a visiting guy has been walking circles around the construction cones, dying to try this new route. So he get's on it, and falls on the 1st move. And 3rd move, and 5th move, and 6th move... you get the idea. Comes down and pronounces it to be a "solid 5.12, really sustained, one hard move after another". Not sure, if you can call a 25ft climb a sustained anything, but... heh! Another guy gets on it, same thing... apparently it is harder than I thought. They both like the route, at least that much is good. But now I am wondering if my difficulty gauge really needs recalibrating, or if I had just set one of those "easy-for-people-between-4'10"-and-5'2"-difficult-for-everyone-else" routes. Grading gym routes. Such a fun exercise! We have the setters post up what they think the route is/should be, then go 1-2 letters above and below and have check-boxes next to the grades. After a week, the highest grade is set and that's what the route is graded. Keeps routes appropriately graded. I think that gym routes should go through double-blind peer review processes for grading. Actually, that should go for outside routes, too. It really is the only sensible option. It works really well and you know what you're getting on when you get on it. Maybe works for a large gym, but too much hassle in a gym like ours. Having setters initial and date the climbs they set is as much of an effort as we are able to consistently enforce. For a hard climb, there might not be enough people to give a grade opinion consensus on it for a few weeks. And by then, every person who has any business being on the route has already tried the route and formed his/her own opinion that is not going to change, no matter what everyone else says. besides, what's the worst thing that is going to happen if you attempt to toprope a climb that is too hard? Nothing is hurtzed, other than dignitteh, tendons, and butts.
And the cheesetitties?
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camhead
Feb 12, 2013, 2:07 PM
Post #97238 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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dr_feelgood wrote: Hey klikker... Did you know the pinkertons were once hired to discredit Senator Smoot as a dirty polygamist mormon? Now you do!
I did not know that, but it is not surprising.
Oh, and seriously, send me your thesis in PDF form when you're done, I wanna read it.
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camhead
Feb 12, 2013, 2:11 PM
Post #97239 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: epoch wrote: camhead wrote: epoch wrote: lena_chita wrote: Man, I haven't had such a lazy Sunday in ages! Feels good to be lazy once in a while. Made some progress on my jean quilt. it would be nice to finally have it done, bc my "design board" is my bedroom floor. Went to the gym this afternoon to do some wall stripping and setting. The request was for a "hard" route. It is difficult for me to gauge the grade while setting, and it has happened more than once that i have planned to make a hard route and ended up with a moderate that requires some tweaking to "harden" it. So I finish setting, and ask a guy to give me a catch. Run though the route, it turned out really nice, flows well, but I think, maybe not quite hard, maybe hard minus... Which in our gym-speak corresponds to ~11b/c. Meanwhile, a visiting guy has been walking circles around the construction cones, dying to try this new route. So he get's on it, and falls on the 1st move. And 3rd move, and 5th move, and 6th move... you get the idea. Comes down and pronounces it to be a "solid 5.12, really sustained, one hard move after another". Not sure, if you can call a 25ft climb a sustained anything, but... heh! Another guy gets on it, same thing... apparently it is harder than I thought. They both like the route, at least that much is good. But now I am wondering if my difficulty gauge really needs recalibrating, or if I had just set one of those "easy-for-people-between-4'10"-and-5'2"-difficult-for-everyone-else" routes. Grading gym routes. Such a fun exercise! We have the setters post up what they think the route is/should be, then go 1-2 letters above and below and have check-boxes next to the grades. After a week, the highest grade is set and that's what the route is graded. Keeps routes appropriately graded. I think that gym routes should go through double-blind peer review processes for grading. Actually, that should go for outside routes, too. It really is the only sensible option. It works really well and you know what you're getting on when you get on it. Maybe works for a large gym, but too much hassle in a gym like ours. Having setters initial and date the climbs they set is as much of an effort as we are able to consistently enforce. For a hard climb, there might not be enough people to give a grade opinion consensus on it for a few weeks. And by then, every person who has any business being on the route has already tried the route and formed his/her own opinion that is not going to change, no matter what everyone else says. besides, what's the worst thing that is going to happen if you attempt to toprope a climb that is too hard? Nothing is hurtzed, other than dignitteh, tendons, and butts.And the cheesetitties?
No cheesetit, just a rewriting history misquote.
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dr_feelgood
Feb 12, 2013, 2:14 PM
Post #97240 of 105309
(6409 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Hey klikker... Did you know the pinkertons were once hired to discredit Senator Smoot as a dirty polygamist mormon? Now you do! I did not know that, but it is not surprising. Oh, and seriously, send me your thesis in PDF form when you're done, I wanna read it.
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camhead
Feb 12, 2013, 3:31 PM
Post #97241 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Hey klikker... Did you know the pinkertons were once hired to discredit Senator Smoot as a dirty polygamist mormon? Now you do! I did not know that, but it is not surprising. Oh, and seriously, send me your thesis in PDF form when you're done, I wanna read it. done.
Do ewe mean "done," as in you are going to, or you already did? Because my inbox is woefully empty.
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camhead
Feb 12, 2013, 3:38 PM
Post #97242 of 105309
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Went to gym last night. The hangboarding is winding up, since I most definitely peaked (at 50 lbs, WOO!) last week. Now would be the time to jump on the campus board, but it's just too risky. The worst thing to do would be to fall, and land directly on the bottom of the left foot.
Teh gimpfoot is still in an aircast, but I am walking around a bit, and have moved toward doing some actual climbing. Can't do any toeing in with the aircast, since that would put a lot of strain on the Lispaul joint. So, mostly, I am sticking to really steep stuff that I just climb with one foot ('m using the Arrowhead that Jack sent me last year for my right foot).
Feeling really good actually. I set several porbelms that suit the one footedness, and I even have a bit of power in me, and can deadpoint, dyno, deep cross over to pretty small holds. Feet cut a lot, but I'm feeling really strong on the crimps and even some slopey pinches. Also getting good at falling onto my back, instead of my feet.
The one problem is that, since my feet cut every few moves as I try to reset the right foot, I REALLY get worn out fast. So, volume is suffering. I'm just hoping that will build up my endurance enough that I will feel stronger and better endurance as soon as I can use both feet.
May try to re-prodge Apollo Reed this spring, since it has very few hard left foot moves. That would be awesome.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 12, 2013, 3:54 PM
Post #97243 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: Went to gym last night. The hangboarding is winding up, since I most definitely peaked (at 50 lbs, WOO!) last week. Now would be the time to jump on the campus board, but it's just too risky. The worst thing to do would be to fall, and land directly on the bottom of the left foot. Teh gimpfoot is still in an aircast, but I am walking around a bit, and have moved toward doing some actual climbing. Can't do any toeing in with the aircast, since that would put a lot of strain on the Lispaul joint. So, mostly, I am sticking to really steep stuff that I just climb with one foot ('m using the Arrowhead that Jack sent me last year for my right foot). Feeling really good actually. I set several porbelms that suit the one footedness, and I even have a bit of power in me, and can deadpoint, dyno, deep cross over to pretty small holds. Feet cut a lot, but I'm feeling really strong on the crimps and even some slopey pinches. Also getting good at falling onto my back, instead of my feet. The one problem is that, since my feet cut every few moves as I try to reset the right foot, I REALLY get worn out fast. So, volume is suffering. I'm just hoping that will build up my endurance enough that I will feel stronger and better endurance as soon as I can use both feet. May try to re-prodge Apollo Reed this spring, since it has very few hard left foot moves. That would be awesome.
Nice! I can't imagine that putting climbing shoes on the gimpfoot will be pleasant for quite some time, so are you planning to climb in approach shoe on the gimpfoot, once the aircast is off, or are you going to try the climbing shoes?
And btw, don't forget, there is spring season at the RED, and you have committed to it.
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dr_feelgood
Feb 12, 2013, 3:56 PM
Post #97244 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Hey klikker... Did you know the pinkertons were once hired to discredit Senator Smoot as a dirty polygamist mormon? Now you do! I did not know that, but it is not surprising. Oh, and seriously, send me your thesis in PDF form when you're done, I wanna read it. done. Do ewe mean "done," as in you are going to, or you already did? Because my inbox is woefully empty.
Unless you want two chapters
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camhead
Feb 12, 2013, 4:08 PM
Post #97245 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: Hey klikker... Did you know the pinkertons were once hired to discredit Senator Smoot as a dirty polygamist mormon? Now you do! I did not know that, but it is not surprising. Oh, and seriously, send me your thesis in PDF form when you're done, I wanna read it. done. Do ewe mean "done," as in you are going to, or you already did? Because my inbox is woefully empty. going to... I still have to finish the fucker. Unless you want two chapters
Naw, I prefer the finished product. And, I know that I lack tenure, blablabla, but seriously, if you need any second reads, or have any sections you want me to look over before you commit them to your committee, don't hesitate to send them my way. I'm only teaching one class this term, and would be psyched to see what you're up to.
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camhead
Feb 12, 2013, 4:12 PM
Post #97246 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Went to gym last night. The hangboarding is winding up, since I most definitely peaked (at 50 lbs, WOO!) last week. Now would be the time to jump on the campus board, but it's just too risky. The worst thing to do would be to fall, and land directly on the bottom of the left foot. Teh gimpfoot is still in an aircast, but I am walking around a bit, and have moved toward doing some actual climbing. Can't do any toeing in with the aircast, since that would put a lot of strain on the Lispaul joint. So, mostly, I am sticking to really steep stuff that I just climb with one foot ('m using the Arrowhead that Jack sent me last year for my right foot). Feeling really good actually. I set several porbelms that suit the one footedness, and I even have a bit of power in me, and can deadpoint, dyno, deep cross over to pretty small holds. Feet cut a lot, but I'm feeling really strong on the crimps and even some slopey pinches. Also getting good at falling onto my back, instead of my feet. The one problem is that, since my feet cut every few moves as I try to reset the right foot, I REALLY get worn out fast. So, volume is suffering. I'm just hoping that will build up my endurance enough that I will feel stronger and better endurance as soon as I can use both feet. May try to re-prodge Apollo Reed this spring, since it has very few hard left foot moves. That would be awesome. Nice! I can't imagine that putting climbing shoes on the gimpfoot will be pleasant for quite some time, so are you planning to climb in approach shoe on the gimpfoot, once the aircast is off, or are you going to try the climbing shoes? And btw, don't forget, there is spring season at the RED, and you have committed to it.
Hmm, spring season at the Red... hard to say, Lena, hard to say.
I'm not sure how putting climbing shoes on it going to be. I'm optimistic about it after we pull the pins (and count to three?) in early March. I have a few old shoes that are a bit bigger and stiffer that I can start on, and even the Arrowheads are about 1/2 size big for me, so will probably get a great getting-back-into-it boot for the steeps.
Feeling cautiously optimistic, though. Probably not gonna be a great Endless Wall season, but I think steep sport will be good. Due to the nature of the injury, I'll probably be doing as much heelhooking as possible with the left.
I asked the Doc about climbing, and he clearly did not get how shoes work, since he said that he could give me a metal shank to put inside the shoes for more support.
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dr_feelgood
Feb 12, 2013, 4:16 PM
Post #97247 of 105309
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Went to gym last night. The hangboarding is winding up, since I most definitely peaked (at 50 lbs, WOO!) last week. Now would be the time to jump on the campus board, but it's just too risky. The worst thing to do would be to fall, and land directly on the bottom of the left foot. Teh gimpfoot is still in an aircast, but I am walking around a bit, and have moved toward doing some actual climbing. Can't do any toeing in with the aircast, since that would put a lot of strain on the Lispaul joint. So, mostly, I am sticking to really steep stuff that I just climb with one foot ('m using the Arrowhead that Jack sent me last year for my right foot). Feeling really good actually. I set several porbelms that suit the one footedness, and I even have a bit of power in me, and can deadpoint, dyno, deep cross over to pretty small holds. Feet cut a lot, but I'm feeling really strong on the crimps and even some slopey pinches. Also getting good at falling onto my back, instead of my feet. The one problem is that, since my feet cut every few moves as I try to reset the right foot, I REALLY get worn out fast. So, volume is suffering. I'm just hoping that will build up my endurance enough that I will feel stronger and better endurance as soon as I can use both feet. May try to re-prodge Apollo Reed this spring, since it has very few hard left foot moves. That would be awesome. Nice! I can't imagine that putting climbing shoes on the gimpfoot will be pleasant for quite some time, so are you planning to climb in approach shoe on the gimpfoot, once the aircast is off, or are you going to try the climbing shoes? And btw, don't forget, there is spring season at the RED, and you have committed to it. Hmm, spring season at the Red... hard to say, Lena, hard to say. I'm not sure how putting climbing shoes on it going to be. I'm optimistic about it after we pull the pins (and count to three?) in early March. I have a few old shoes that are a bit bigger and stiffer that I can start on, and even the Arrowheads are about 1/2 size big for me, so will probably get a great getting-back-into-it boot for the steeps. Feeling cautiously optimistic, though. Probably not gonna be a great Endless Wall season, but I think steep sport will be good. Due to the nature of the injury, I'll probably be doing as much heelhooking as possible with the left. I asked the Doc about climbing, and he clearly did not get how shoes work, since he said that he could give me a metal shank to put inside the shoes for more support.
Three Sir!
Three!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 12, 2013, 4:16 PM
Post #97248 of 105309
(6389 views)
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Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Went to gym last night. The hangboarding is winding up, since I most definitely peaked (at 50 lbs, WOO!) last week. Now would be the time to jump on the campus board, but it's just too risky. The worst thing to do would be to fall, and land directly on the bottom of the left foot. Teh gimpfoot is still in an aircast, but I am walking around a bit, and have moved toward doing some actual climbing. Can't do any toeing in with the aircast, since that would put a lot of strain on the Lispaul joint. So, mostly, I am sticking to really steep stuff that I just climb with one foot ('m using the Arrowhead that Jack sent me last year for my right foot). Feeling really good actually. I set several porbelms that suit the one footedness, and I even have a bit of power in me, and can deadpoint, dyno, deep cross over to pretty small holds. Feet cut a lot, but I'm feeling really strong on the crimps and even some slopey pinches. Also getting good at falling onto my back, instead of my feet. The one problem is that, since my feet cut every few moves as I try to reset the right foot, I REALLY get worn out fast. So, volume is suffering. I'm just hoping that will build up my endurance enough that I will feel stronger and better endurance as soon as I can use both feet. May try to re-prodge Apollo Reed this spring, since it has very few hard left foot moves. That would be awesome. Nice! I can't imagine that putting climbing shoes on the gimpfoot will be pleasant for quite some time, so are you planning to climb in approach shoe on the gimpfoot, once the aircast is off, or are you going to try the climbing shoes? And btw, don't forget, there is spring season at the RED, and you have committed to it. Hmm, spring season at the Red... hard to say, Lena, hard to say. I'm not sure how putting climbing shoes on it going to be. I'm optimistic about it after we pull the pins (and count to three?) in early March. I have a few old shoes that are a bit bigger and stiffer that I can start on, and even the Arrowheads are about 1/2 size big for me, so will probably get a great getting-back-into-it boot for the steeps. Feeling cautiously optimistic, though. Probably not gonna be a great Endless Wall season, but I think steep sport will be good. Due to the nature of the injury, I'll probably be doing as much heelhooking as possible with the left. I asked the Doc about climbing, and he clearly did not get how shoes work, since he said that he could give me a metal shank to put inside the shoes for more support.
LOL, metal shank for inside of the climbing shoes!
Still, may not be so off. Didn't Gail get carbon inserts into her climbing shoes after her toe surgery? Obviously, completely different injury, but...
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camhead
Feb 12, 2013, 4:20 PM
Post #97249 of 105309
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Posts: 20939
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dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Went to gym last night. The hangboarding is winding up, since I most definitely peaked (at 50 lbs, WOO!) last week. Now would be the time to jump on the campus board, but it's just too risky. The worst thing to do would be to fall, and land directly on the bottom of the left foot. Teh gimpfoot is still in an aircast, but I am walking around a bit, and have moved toward doing some actual climbing. Can't do any toeing in with the aircast, since that would put a lot of strain on the Lispaul joint. So, mostly, I am sticking to really steep stuff that I just climb with one foot ('m using the Arrowhead that Jack sent me last year for my right foot). Feeling really good actually. I set several porbelms that suit the one footedness, and I even have a bit of power in me, and can deadpoint, dyno, deep cross over to pretty small holds. Feet cut a lot, but I'm feeling really strong on the crimps and even some slopey pinches. Also getting good at falling onto my back, instead of my feet. The one problem is that, since my feet cut every few moves as I try to reset the right foot, I REALLY get worn out fast. So, volume is suffering. I'm just hoping that will build up my endurance enough that I will feel stronger and better endurance as soon as I can use both feet. May try to re-prodge Apollo Reed this spring, since it has very few hard left foot moves. That would be awesome. Nice! I can't imagine that putting climbing shoes on the gimpfoot will be pleasant for quite some time, so are you planning to climb in approach shoe on the gimpfoot, once the aircast is off, or are you going to try the climbing shoes? And btw, don't forget, there is spring season at the RED, and you have committed to it. Hmm, spring season at the Red... hard to say, Lena, hard to say. I'm not sure how putting climbing shoes on it going to be. I'm optimistic about it after we pull the pins (and count to three?) in early March. I have a few old shoes that are a bit bigger and stiffer that I can start on, and even the Arrowheads are about 1/2 size big for me, so will probably get a great getting-back-into-it boot for the steeps. Feeling cautiously optimistic, though. Probably not gonna be a great Endless Wall season, but I think steep sport will be good. Due to the nature of the injury, I'll probably be doing as much heelhooking as possible with the left. I asked the Doc about climbing, and he clearly did not get how shoes work, since he said that he could give me a metal shank to put inside the shoes for more support. One! Two! Five! Three Sir! Three!
Heh, the last few days have had a disproportionate amount of Monty Python references come up.
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camhead
Feb 12, 2013, 4:21 PM
Post #97250 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Went to gym last night. The hangboarding is winding up, since I most definitely peaked (at 50 lbs, WOO!) last week. Now would be the time to jump on the campus board, but it's just too risky. The worst thing to do would be to fall, and land directly on the bottom of the left foot. Teh gimpfoot is still in an aircast, but I am walking around a bit, and have moved toward doing some actual climbing. Can't do any toeing in with the aircast, since that would put a lot of strain on the Lispaul joint. So, mostly, I am sticking to really steep stuff that I just climb with one foot ('m using the Arrowhead that Jack sent me last year for my right foot). Feeling really good actually. I set several porbelms that suit the one footedness, and I even have a bit of power in me, and can deadpoint, dyno, deep cross over to pretty small holds. Feet cut a lot, but I'm feeling really strong on the crimps and even some slopey pinches. Also getting good at falling onto my back, instead of my feet. The one problem is that, since my feet cut every few moves as I try to reset the right foot, I REALLY get worn out fast. So, volume is suffering. I'm just hoping that will build up my endurance enough that I will feel stronger and better endurance as soon as I can use both feet. May try to re-prodge Apollo Reed this spring, since it has very few hard left foot moves. That would be awesome. Nice! I can't imagine that putting climbing shoes on the gimpfoot will be pleasant for quite some time, so are you planning to climb in approach shoe on the gimpfoot, once the aircast is off, or are you going to try the climbing shoes? And btw, don't forget, there is spring season at the RED, and you have committed to it. Hmm, spring season at the Red... hard to say, Lena, hard to say. I'm not sure how putting climbing shoes on it going to be. I'm optimistic about it after we pull the pins (and count to three?) in early March. I have a few old shoes that are a bit bigger and stiffer that I can start on, and even the Arrowheads are about 1/2 size big for me, so will probably get a great getting-back-into-it boot for the steeps. Feeling cautiously optimistic, though. Probably not gonna be a great Endless Wall season, but I think steep sport will be good. Due to the nature of the injury, I'll probably be doing as much heelhooking as possible with the left. I asked the Doc about climbing, and he clearly did not get how shoes work, since he said that he could give me a metal shank to put inside the shoes for more support. LOL, metal shank for inside of the climbing shoes! Still, may not be so off. Didn't Gail get carbon inserts into her climbing shoes after her toe surgery? Obviously, completely different injury, but...
Hmm, I should ask Gail about that. My toes, obviously are ok, but the fact that the joint where the upper foot meets the leg got obliterated is a major variable. And, whenever I curve my toes into the downturned position, they shake and spasm involuntarily. No clue.
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