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matt17
Jan 14, 2006, 9:43 PM
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me and my friend have been top roping for about a year now and got the bug to do some leading. what kind of gear are we going to need to buy? and what is it all going to cost? it will be all sport climbing because i doubt we can afford any trad gear.
also, are there any multipitch sport routes in the east?
thanks
matt
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hoofers_andy
Jan 14, 2006, 9:50 PM
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brace for heavy flaming
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vanclimber
Jan 14, 2006, 9:58 PM
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quickdraws-$200
lycra-$50
The look on your face when the local crag has been chopped-priceless
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namoclimber
Jan 14, 2006, 10:01 PM
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I think a good start would be soimething like this..
13-18 quick draws
4-8 locking beaners
some webbing or slings
Maybe a quick link or two
more gear is better less will work.
check prices on web sites
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dvd
Jan 14, 2006, 10:17 PM
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the number of quick draws you need depends on the number of bolts at the local crag, throw in a couple extra in case you drop some and remember most places will give you discounts when you buy 10 or 12 or so. you can get cheap draws for under $10 or super light weight for 20+ I like wire gates cause they are easy to clip and I can use them for ice without having to worry them freezing shut (I use the same biners for ice, trad and sport, just keep a rope end and a pro end).
You might want some runners if routes wonder (they shouldnt) or if you are pulling roofs.
Think about your anchor situation, many people and most places you can just clip a draw to two bolts and its close enough too equalized. I prefer a "knotted sliding x" my own creation.
You might want a new rope depending on how much toproping you have done on your old one, if your out having fun, not worrying about onsights, just get a fat one that can take lots of falls...
fire fire fire fire
dont get dead, its always a bad day to go to the hospital, have fun
~D
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salamanizer
Jan 15, 2006, 1:30 AM
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In reply to: I think a good start would be soimething like this.. 13-18 quick draws
A bit much don't you think? 12 will get you through 90% of all sport routes. Just make sure you look up before you start crawling up. I guess it doesn't hurt to have several more on hand though. Probably wont need that many at first though.
In reply to: 4-8 locking bieners
Good god what in the hell for? I never carry more than 4 and have never used more than two (accept for attaching approach shoes to my harness for multi pitch). Just get a couple and put the rest of that cash into QD's or beer.
In reply to: Maybe a quick link or two
Yes, good idea to have something to bail off of. Wouldn't want to go loosing one of those shiny new QD's.
In reply to: more gear is better less will work.
More gear in general will give you more options. However, to start out leading sport you don't need much, and while you're leading, less strapped to your anus is definitely better. You've been TRing for a while so I assume you have gear for anchors. Just pick up a couple packs of QD's, a few 24"shoulder slings and have at ye! When the time comes you need more gear, you'll know it and better yet, you'll know exactly what you need.
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matt17
Jan 15, 2006, 5:23 AM
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not sure to as what a quick link is... can any one shed some light?
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matt17
Jan 15, 2006, 6:28 AM
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couldnt you just use a carabiner?
i dont see how it would make a differance
maybe im missing something?
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z_rock90
Jan 15, 2006, 6:33 AM
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you can get them at your hardware store for cheap. so you don't loose a draw or biner when bailing.
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squierbypetzl
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Jan 15, 2006, 6:46 AM
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make sure you have a dynamic rope. big falls onto a static rope hurt....
get a daisy chain or some webbing/sling. maybe a helmet each (depends on where and what you´re climbing).
think that´s it.
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salamanizer
Jan 15, 2006, 6:55 AM
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Don't get a quick link form Fixe, that would be retarded. Pick one up at any hardware store for around 2 bucks. 1/4in is fine but 3/8in would probably make you feel safer. They are super strong (even the cheep ones) and no big loss. Over time you will aquire a huge collection of bail biners and quick links from others as I have. I save them up and use them on alpine rap routes and such. Good stuff.
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jt512
Jan 15, 2006, 7:12 AM
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In reply to: the number of quick draws you need depends on the number of bolts at the local crag, throw in a couple extra in case you drop some and remember most places will give you discounts when you buy 10 or 12 or so. you can get cheap draws for under $10 or super light weight for 20+ I like wire gates cause they are easy to clip and I can use them for ice without having to worry them freezing shut (I use the same biners for ice, trad and sport, just keep a rope end and a pro end). You might want some runners if routes wonder (they shouldnt) or if you are pulling roofs. Think about your anchor situation, many people and most places you can just clip a draw to two bolts and its close enough too equalized. I prefer a "knotted sliding x" my own creation. You might want a new rope depending on how much toproping you have done on your old one, if your out having fun, not worrying about onsights, just get a fat one that can take lots of falls... fire fire fire fire dont get dead, its always a bad day to go to the hospital, have fun ~D
And you're from Arkansas, too. Who'd have guessed?
Jay
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jt512
Jan 15, 2006, 7:16 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: 4-8 locking bieners Good god what in the hell for? I never carry more than 4...
Classic.
Jay
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squierbypetzl
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Jan 15, 2006, 7:45 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: 4-8 locking bieners Good god what in the hell for? I never carry more than 4...
:lol:
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aeray
Jan 15, 2006, 9:25 AM
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dvd, what is this "knotted sliding x"? I am intrigued. Photos perhaps?
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bobruef
Jan 15, 2006, 12:12 PM
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its not his own creation, Its just a sliding x with knots on each arm to limit the amount it would extend if one of the anchor points failed.
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dvd
Jan 15, 2006, 3:05 PM
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aeray, like bobruef said its a sling with nots in the end to limit dynamic loading if one of the anchors failed. I called it my own creation cause I tied it out of skinnier than 1inch webbing. If you were use a standard sewn sling, the knots make it to short to be really effective. Tieing the knots allows any one piece of webbing or anchor to break and still have an anchor. Hope that answers your question.
Jay, I'm not sure if you are being sarcastic or what. In responce; I live in Arkansas, I'm from Pennsylvania via New York (north of the Park) with summers spent in New Mexico.
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mcfoley
Jan 15, 2006, 3:38 PM
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TROLL...
FU
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kydd76
Jan 15, 2006, 4:05 PM
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You can get your Lycra at goodwill. Just don’t get the ones that are too stretched out. Looks silly when it’s all baggy in the ars and legs. You want nice and smooth, best if pink or hot yellow. I like anything with polka dots.
Ten draws, if you can get more do.
Two are three links or a few leaver biners.
A few lockers, I have very rarely used more than two when sport climbing.
I love my grigri, but an atc will do.
Some webbing which you should have from top roping.
A high fall rated rope. Sport is about falling all day and not drinking all night, so you can fall all the next day in tip top shape. That’s why I like trad and ice, beer has more calories.
I would say get a nice set of draws. I have BD live wire set light and versatile, and a Petzl spirit set for a smooth clip. I like both about the same for sport. I will not use the Petzl’s if I am climbing ice or in the snow, they freeze up. If you’re on the skinny, I have used Omega’s they are a nice draw for the price.
Cost: more than you want to spend, less than you could. :)
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salamanizer
Jan 15, 2006, 4:57 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: 4-8 locking bieners Good god what in the hell for? I never carry more than 4... Classic. Jay
There you go, picking nose hairs again.
2 for anchor,
1 on my shoes (multi P),
1 for my prussic (maybe). So do they really count?
Ya know, if you spent half the time actually climbing as you do hiding behind your keyboard, I might be jealous of you.
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matt17
Jan 15, 2006, 5:26 PM
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i am looking for a new rope. is a 10.3 edelwiess a decent buy? the fall rating is 10.
so...
10-12 draws
webbing/slings
links
lockers
anything else?
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landgolier
Jan 15, 2006, 5:47 PM
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That edelweiss is a good rope. For weekend cragging you can skip the dry treatment, too.
Skip the quicklinks, you can get ovals or some other cheap biner for like $4 and bailing that way is much easier, plus you are leaving behind a serviceable bail biner and not a quicklink that could corrode shut. Much easier on your rope, too, unless you use really godzilla quicklinks. Also, don't bail off one bolt when you can walk to the top and rap clean your draws, most bolts are safe and all, but if your number comes up and that one blows after you clean a couple draws below it, you're gone.
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daithi
Jan 15, 2006, 6:55 PM
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In reply to: make sure you have a dynamic rope. big falls onto a static rope hurt....
It hurts a little when your internal organs are extruded out through your ribs and your spine is reduced to its constituent parts.
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thatnameisalreadychosen
Jan 15, 2006, 9:05 PM
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:)
not bieners
:D
not beaners
:lol:
biners
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matt17
Jan 15, 2006, 9:22 PM
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would that 10.3 edelwiess a decent top roping rope or would something thicker be better?
is there anyothe gear you guys can recomend to me for leading?
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daggerx
Jan 15, 2006, 10:28 PM
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2 things if your asking your not ready and to try www.google.com
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heiko
Jan 15, 2006, 10:36 PM
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In reply to: would that 10.3 edelwiess a decent top roping rope or would something thicker be better? is there anyothe gear you guys can recomend to me for leading?
I seriously recommend a lead-climbing course.
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mheyman
Jan 16, 2006, 12:18 AM
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In reply to: DO get stainless steel quicklinks.
This will be particularly important if you are climbing near the sea, and you want to celebrate you 21st birthday there without leaving.
In reply to: Nobody with a brain will trust his life to a "serviceable bail biner" that has been left behind and that he doesn't know anything about.
Most of us never know much more about our about our gear than what it looks like. We trust the people who manufacture it. At a sport crag, a bail biner is probably as good as the ones one your harness. If you worry about single point failure use two biners - where ever they come from.
In reply to: I seriously recommend a lead-climbing course.
Good advice.
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landgolier
Jan 16, 2006, 2:56 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Skip the quicklinks, you can get ovals or some other cheap biner for like $4 and bailing that way is much easier, plus you are leaving behind a serviceable bail biner and not a quicklink that could corrode shut. DO get stainless steel quicklinks. Nobody with a brain will trust his life to a "serviceable bail biner" that has been left behind and that he doesn't know anything about. A piece of breaking aluminum could be that last sound you hear.
Corroded, crappy quicklink on bolt = Useless junk, possibly hard to remove
Cheapie biner on bolt = free keychain at worst
I trust my life to strange metal I don't know anything about every time I go sport climbing. Which is why I don't go sport climbing all that much.
edit cuz I spel gud
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kubi
Jan 16, 2006, 3:11 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Skip the quicklinks, you can get ovals or some other cheap biner for like $4 and bailing that way is much easier, plus you are leaving behind a serviceable bail biner and not a quicklink that could corrode shut. DO get stainless steel quicklinks. Nobody with a brain will trust his life to a "serviceable bail biner" that has been left behind and that he doesn't know anything about. A piece of breaking aluminum could be that last sound you hear.
I can barely open quicklinks with two hands when they are brand new, I've never even been able to budge the nut on bail quicklinks that have been outside for who-knows how long. Get cheap biners instead.
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climbsomething
Jan 16, 2006, 3:32 AM
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In reply to: couldnt you just use a carabiner?
In reply to: maybe im missing something? |
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jt512
Jan 16, 2006, 4:22 AM
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In reply to: Jay, I'm not sure if you are being sarcastic or what. In responce; I live in Arkansas, I'm from Pennsylvania...
:shock:
Jay
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jt512
Jan 16, 2006, 4:25 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: 4-8 locking bieners Good god what in the hell for? I never carry more than 4... Classic. Jay There you go, picking nose hairs again. 2 for anchor, 1 on my shoes (multi P), 1 for my prussic (maybe). So do they really count?
For sport climbing, the topic of this thread, no. That was the point, dipshit.
In reply to: Ya know, if you spent half the time actually climbing as you do hiding behind your keyboard, I might be jealous of you.
Care to explain in what way I 'hide behind my keyboard'? No, of course you don't. You'd have to come out from behind yours.
You chickenshit.
Jay
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landgolier
Jan 16, 2006, 5:00 AM
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Come on Jay, is there anything you can't turn in to a fight?
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salamanizer
Jan 16, 2006, 5:08 AM
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In reply to: Come on Jay, is there anything you can't turn in to a fight?
He has to compensate somehow.
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salamanizer
Jan 16, 2006, 5:21 AM
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In reply to: Care to explain in what way I 'hide behind my keyboard'? No, of course you don't. You'd have to come out from behind yours. You s---. Jay
Sure....because I know you would never say these things to my face.
Because you're chickenshit
How do I know that? Because I have met you and I know you're not half the a$$hole in real life as you are on this site. But that's the Internet for ya, brings out your true colors. The colorful Jay we all know and love.
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squierbypetzl
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Jan 16, 2006, 5:36 AM
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In reply to: Sure....because I know you would never say these things to my face. Because you're s--- How do I know that? Because I have met you and I know you're not half the a$$hole in real life as you are on this site. But that's the Internet for ya, brings out your true colors. The colorful Jay we all know and love.
Quick! Move to the side of the road, here comes a WHHHHHAAAAAAAMBULANCE!!
:roll:
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aeray
Jan 16, 2006, 6:46 AM
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thanks bobreuf and dvd. used it before, didn't know the terminology.
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yetanotherdave
Jan 16, 2006, 6:49 AM
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In reply to: I can barely open quicklinks with two hands when they are brand new, I've never even been able to budge the nut on bail quicklinks that have been outside for who-knows how long.
there's a better way. clip into the piece you're bailing off, and thread your bail sling thru it. thread your rope thru partway, and tie the longer section of your rope to the side of the bail sling with the knot. rap off the threaded part of your rope, and pull carefully, making sure that you pull the right side. If you get it wrong you're going back up there to undo the girth hitch...
This requires that you be no more than 1/3 of your rope out. If you're over that, the sling's staying. Slingage is cheap, tho, and it doesn't rust.
http://climbing.com/...ips/tt223_sport2.gif
My apologies to those who still need to collect bail biners to rack nuts on :)
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cully_larson
Jan 16, 2006, 6:54 AM
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My advice is to at least read up on lead climbing until you reach the point where you know what you will need. Before you buy anything, find someone to take you climbing who knows how to lead. Make sure you know how to lead (more reading, more climbing with people who know how to lead, a class perhaps) and then buy your gear. There's no point to buying this stuff until you know how to use it. Also, you'll have a better chance of getting something that you'll actually use, enjoy using, and will use for a long time.
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hosh
Jan 16, 2006, 7:03 AM
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I hear that the best list for sport climbing gear and a good source for sport climbing related information can be found in Alpinst issue #13. If you're having trouble finding it, look for ordering info in the front of Issue #14.
hosh.
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matt17
Jan 16, 2006, 6:38 PM
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thank you all for he advice i appreciate it alot
and i will be taking a class
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mcfoley
Jan 16, 2006, 7:52 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: I can barely open quicklinks with two hands when they are brand new, I've never even been able to budge the nut on bail quicklinks that have been outside for who-knows how long. me either, and it drives me bloody insane that people leave useless crap on routes when they bail. Especially on old bolts with room for a quicklink or a biner. there's a better way. clip into the piece you're bailing off, and thread your bail sling thru it. thread your rope thru partway, and tie the longer section of your rope to the side of the bail sling with the knot. rap off the threaded part of your rope, and pull carefully, making sure that you pull the right side. If you get it wrong you're going back up there to undo the girth hitch... This requires that you be no more than 1/3 of your rope out. If you're over that, the sling's staying. Slingage is cheap, tho, and it doesn't rust. http://climbing.com/...ips/tt223_sport2.gif My apologies to those who still need to collect bail biners to rack nuts on :)
If I was going to rig that kind of system, I'd use 5.5m Spectra, I've rapped off it before on bolts in rainy conditions, bailing on routes. I wouldn't use one loop of 1" webbing though. Probably double it up if that was all I had.
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landgolier
Jan 16, 2006, 8:41 PM
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That tip from climbing mag is such a boondoggle, I wish they'd never printed that mess. It works in theory, but it's kind of a CF to rig and there are ample opprotunities to screw it up, not to mention under most situations you're going to end up having your whole wagon train hanging off that one bolt for part of the rap. Maybe if you've retreated to a ledge so you can put your head back on and have something to stand on, and there are bolts you can reach both above and below you, it's easy and idiot-proof, but most of my sport climbing retreats don't tend to go like that. Not to mention you have to be pretty careful on the rap not to saw the sling while you're cleaning, which could happen pretty easily on an overhang. I guess if one end of the rope is still through the draws and somebody puts a belay on both lines as you come down they could in theory brake you if the top sling went, but then you're hanging by your backup knot, possibly upside down (assuming you used one and it holds). All this so you can burn $1 worth of webbing rather than a $4 bail biner or two.
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mcfoley
Jan 16, 2006, 8:56 PM
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Dup
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mcfoley
Jan 16, 2006, 8:57 PM
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In reply to: That tip from climbing mag is such a boondoggle, I wish they'd never printed that mess. It works in theory, but it's kind of a CF to rig and there are ample opprotunities to screw it up, not to mention under most situations you're going to end up having your whole wagon train hanging off that one bolt for part of the rap. Maybe if you've retreated to a ledge so you can put your head back on and have something to stand on, and there are bolts you can reach both above and below you, it's easy and idiot-proof, but most of my sport climbing retreats don't tend to go like that. Not to mention you have to be pretty careful on the rap not to saw the sling while you're cleaning, which could happen pretty easily on an overhang. I guess if one end of the rope is still through the draws and somebody puts a belay on both lines as you come down they could in theory brake you if the top sling went, but then you're hanging by your backup knot, possibly upside down (assuming you used one and it holds). All this so you can burn $1 worth of webbing rather than a $4 bail biner or two.
NO SHIT!!!
and anyone who does any amount of sport climbing has happened upon a bail biner, so in this case just return the favor and move on.
Think of it as the penny jar at Circle K...leave a biner, take a biner...fuck it.
If you climb long enough you will sureley lose a lot more than that $7 biner.
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matt17
Jan 16, 2006, 11:44 PM
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that sounds like some solid advice
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matt17
Jan 16, 2006, 11:45 PM
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that sounds like some solid advice
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mcfoley
Jan 17, 2006, 12:15 AM
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you can say that again...
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climberboy193838
Jan 17, 2006, 1:44 AM
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bah humbug, dont bother with all this leading gear...... just solo.... then u dont have to worrry about equipment faliure just u screwing up.... see problem solved
good luck and solo over cactus or fire its good motivation :shock:
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fearlessclimber
Jan 18, 2006, 4:15 PM
Post #53 of 70
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Registered: Oct 27, 2005
Posts: 474
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i cant even begin to tell you how muck lead climbing has cost me.
Rope 200 *2
draws 300
runners 50
daisy chain 14
allong with all of the gear you will need
For trad i have spent
nuts 100
wiregate carabiners got them on sale for 4 dollars a piece,got 12 of those
Cams 3 sets of 1-4 black diamonds, and some metolius they are crappy, they overcam, but the new blackdiamonds are awesome.50- 90 dollars a piece
Aliens- 52 dollars a piece, use these the most. Great for small cracks
lockers-10, use these for all sorts of things, usually for multipitch climbs
more runners
cordelettes
gear slings, makes it easier for sharing gear
over all there is almost 3 grand in all that if i include my 2 pairs of shoes, harness, and helmet, and all the other stuff, go lead in a gym before going outside to make sure that you enjoy it.
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bobruef
Jan 18, 2006, 4:19 PM
Post #54 of 70
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884
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In reply to: 3 sets of 1-4 black diamonds
you own 3 #4 camalots? holy sh!t
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bobruef
Jan 18, 2006, 4:28 PM
Post #55 of 70
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884
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In reply to: i cant even begin to tell you how muck lead climbing has cost me... and some metolius they are crappy, they overcam
damn, I hate it when my crappy cams place themselves wrong! It costs me a fortune!
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jt512
Jan 18, 2006, 5:13 PM
Post #56 of 70
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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In reply to: Aliens- 52 dollars a piece, use these the most. Great for small cracks
You been paying attention lately?
Jay
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squierbypetzl
Moderator
Jan 18, 2006, 5:27 PM
Post #57 of 70
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Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 3431
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In reply to: Aliens- 52 dollars a piece, use these the most. Great for small cracks
All that cheaply bought gear and you´re using these the most??
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bobruef
Jan 18, 2006, 5:47 PM
Post #58 of 70
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884
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In reply to: but the new blackdiamonds are awesome.50- 90 dollars a piece
I wasn't going to get any more c4s for a while, but if you've got a hook up on 50 dollar camalots, I'd love to get in on that! :wink:
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landgolier
Jan 18, 2006, 5:58 PM
Post #59 of 70
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Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 714
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Blems are easy to find at $50 or so for .5-2 and maybe a few $ more for 3. Try gearexpress or some of the other online retailers. Northern mountain has .75's for $47 right now.
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sirfallsalot
Jan 18, 2006, 6:14 PM
Post #60 of 70
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Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 15
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You may also want to consider a helmet along with some of the other suggestions.
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bobruef
Jan 18, 2006, 6:24 PM
Post #61 of 70
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884
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thanks for the tip landgolier, I've picked up blems before.
I was poking fun. I was just having a little laugh reading his post. I'm going to take a wild guess though that he hasn't ever purchased blems, and is talking out of his @$$.
While some climbers may find use for 3 #4s I sincerely doubt he's one of them.
Us noobs can spot our own kind. :lol:
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mcfoley
Jan 19, 2006, 12:21 AM
Post #62 of 70
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Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 644
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In reply to: thanks for the tip landgolier, I've picked up blems before. I was poking fun. I was just having a little laugh reading his post. I'm going to take a wild guess though that he hasn't ever purchased blems, and is talking out of his @$$. While some climbers may find use for 3 #4s I sincerely doubt he's one of them. Us noobs can spot our own kind. :lol:
No shit, I get prodeals on gear and there is no way I'd buy 3 #4 Bd's..
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salamanizer
Jan 19, 2006, 1:28 AM
Post #63 of 70
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Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
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In reply to: No s---, I get prodeals on gear and there is no way I'd buy 3 #4 Bd's..
I have two and routinely borrow a third and/or size or two bigger when climbing in the Valley. Two is nearly mandatory gear while a third is always nice to have on hand there. All depends on what you're climbing. I just have a hankering for the wide stuff myself.
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matt17
Jan 19, 2006, 3:33 AM
Post #64 of 70
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Registered: Dec 30, 2005
Posts: 85
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so this is about sport climbing....
but whatever one day i hope to trad
if i win the lotto!
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bobruef
Jan 19, 2006, 3:18 PM
Post #65 of 70
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884
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In reply to: so this is about sport climbing.... but whatever one day i hope to trad if i win the lotto!
just think of it like getting a set of golf clubs, but never having to pay greens fees or wear silly pants.
...or getting an expensive snowboard setup, but getting free lift tickets.
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landgolier
Jan 19, 2006, 3:20 PM
Post #66 of 70
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Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 714
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I've wished I'd had 3 #4's. Go go gadget stacked hexes :shock:
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jammer
Jan 19, 2006, 4:48 PM
Post #67 of 70
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Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472
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I may of missed the part about if you top roped outside or in, but due to you having to purchase a rope, I assume it was all inside. Anyway, here's my suggestion:
1 - 10.+ dynamic rope
2 belay devices (yup, you can drop em if you're not careful)
16 quick draws (never know ...)
2 slings for a "cows tail" or "lobster claws" (depends on where you live)
4 locking biners (2 for cows tail, 1 for belay device and 1 spare)
2 bail biners
shoes
and if you'd like ...
stick clip
couple of long slings to anchor belayer if needed
1 locker for anchor
chalk and bag
Be safe and climb on!
jammer
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matt17
Jan 19, 2006, 7:57 PM
Post #68 of 70
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Registered: Dec 30, 2005
Posts: 85
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thanks for the advice jammer
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reg
Jan 19, 2006, 8:29 PM
Post #69 of 70
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1560
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squierbypetzl wrote: "make sure you have a dynamic rope. big falls onto a static rope hurt...."
on static line a short fall (3 feet) can hurt you BAD - break gear etc. - a long fall will kill you.
get lead belay instruction - know rope signals in case you can't hear/see your climber, know self rescue.
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matt17
Jan 20, 2006, 4:29 AM
Post #70 of 70
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Registered: Dec 30, 2005
Posts: 85
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thanks i do plan on getting a cert at the climbing gym near me
and i knew that about the static rope :wink:
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