|
matt17
Jan 14, 2006, 9:43 PM
Post #1 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2005
Posts: 85
|
me and my friend have been top roping for about a year now and got the bug to do some leading. what kind of gear are we going to need to buy? and what is it all going to cost? it will be all sport climbing because i doubt we can afford any trad gear.
also, are there any multipitch sport routes in the east?
thanks
matt
|
|
|
|
|
hoofers_andy
Jan 14, 2006, 9:50 PM
Post #2 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2003
Posts: 269
|
brace for heavy flaming
|
|
|
|
|
vanclimber
Jan 14, 2006, 9:58 PM
Post #3 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 202
|
quickdraws-$200
lycra-$50
The look on your face when the local crag has been chopped-priceless
|
|
|
|
|
namoclimber
Jan 14, 2006, 10:01 PM
Post #4 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2005
Posts: 118
|
I think a good start would be soimething like this..
13-18 quick draws
4-8 locking beaners
some webbing or slings
Maybe a quick link or two
more gear is better less will work.
check prices on web sites
|
|
|
|
|
dvd
Jan 14, 2006, 10:17 PM
Post #5 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2005
Posts: 111
|
the number of quick draws you need depends on the number of bolts at the local crag, throw in a couple extra in case you drop some and remember most places will give you discounts when you buy 10 or 12 or so. you can get cheap draws for under $10 or super light weight for 20+ I like wire gates cause they are easy to clip and I can use them for ice without having to worry them freezing shut (I use the same biners for ice, trad and sport, just keep a rope end and a pro end).
You might want some runners if routes wonder (they shouldnt) or if you are pulling roofs.
Think about your anchor situation, many people and most places you can just clip a draw to two bolts and its close enough too equalized. I prefer a "knotted sliding x" my own creation.
You might want a new rope depending on how much toproping you have done on your old one, if your out having fun, not worrying about onsights, just get a fat one that can take lots of falls...
fire fire fire fire
dont get dead, its always a bad day to go to the hospital, have fun
~D
|
|
|
|
|
salamanizer
Jan 15, 2006, 1:30 AM
Post #6 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
|
In reply to: I think a good start would be soimething like this.. 13-18 quick draws
A bit much don't you think? 12 will get you through 90% of all sport routes. Just make sure you look up before you start crawling up. I guess it doesn't hurt to have several more on hand though. Probably wont need that many at first though.
In reply to: 4-8 locking bieners
Good god what in the hell for? I never carry more than 4 and have never used more than two (accept for attaching approach shoes to my harness for multi pitch). Just get a couple and put the rest of that cash into QD's or beer.
In reply to: Maybe a quick link or two
Yes, good idea to have something to bail off of. Wouldn't want to go loosing one of those shiny new QD's.
In reply to: more gear is better less will work.
More gear in general will give you more options. However, to start out leading sport you don't need much, and while you're leading, less strapped to your anus is definitely better. You've been TRing for a while so I assume you have gear for anchors. Just pick up a couple packs of QD's, a few 24"shoulder slings and have at ye! When the time comes you need more gear, you'll know it and better yet, you'll know exactly what you need.
|
|
|
|
|
matt17
Jan 15, 2006, 5:23 AM
Post #7 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2005
Posts: 85
|
not sure to as what a quick link is... can any one shed some light?
|
|
|
|
|
matt17
Jan 15, 2006, 6:28 AM
Post #9 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2005
Posts: 85
|
couldnt you just use a carabiner?
i dont see how it would make a differance
maybe im missing something?
|
|
|
|
|
z_rock90
Jan 15, 2006, 6:33 AM
Post #10 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 18, 2005
Posts: 126
|
you can get them at your hardware store for cheap. so you don't loose a draw or biner when bailing.
|
|
|
|
|
squierbypetzl
Moderator
Jan 15, 2006, 6:46 AM
Post #11 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 3431
|
make sure you have a dynamic rope. big falls onto a static rope hurt....
get a daisy chain or some webbing/sling. maybe a helmet each (depends on where and what you´re climbing).
think that´s it.
|
|
|
|
|
salamanizer
Jan 15, 2006, 6:55 AM
Post #12 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
|
Don't get a quick link form Fixe, that would be retarded. Pick one up at any hardware store for around 2 bucks. 1/4in is fine but 3/8in would probably make you feel safer. They are super strong (even the cheep ones) and no big loss. Over time you will aquire a huge collection of bail biners and quick links from others as I have. I save them up and use them on alpine rap routes and such. Good stuff.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jan 15, 2006, 7:12 AM
Post #13 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: the number of quick draws you need depends on the number of bolts at the local crag, throw in a couple extra in case you drop some and remember most places will give you discounts when you buy 10 or 12 or so. you can get cheap draws for under $10 or super light weight for 20+ I like wire gates cause they are easy to clip and I can use them for ice without having to worry them freezing shut (I use the same biners for ice, trad and sport, just keep a rope end and a pro end). You might want some runners if routes wonder (they shouldnt) or if you are pulling roofs. Think about your anchor situation, many people and most places you can just clip a draw to two bolts and its close enough too equalized. I prefer a "knotted sliding x" my own creation. You might want a new rope depending on how much toproping you have done on your old one, if your out having fun, not worrying about onsights, just get a fat one that can take lots of falls... fire fire fire fire dont get dead, its always a bad day to go to the hospital, have fun ~D
And you're from Arkansas, too. Who'd have guessed?
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jan 15, 2006, 7:16 AM
Post #14 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
In reply to: In reply to: 4-8 locking bieners Good god what in the hell for? I never carry more than 4...
Classic.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
squierbypetzl
Moderator
Jan 15, 2006, 7:45 AM
Post #15 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 3431
|
In reply to: In reply to: 4-8 locking bieners Good god what in the hell for? I never carry more than 4...
:lol:
|
|
|
|
|
aeray
Jan 15, 2006, 9:25 AM
Post #16 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2003
Posts: 53
|
dvd, what is this "knotted sliding x"? I am intrigued. Photos perhaps?
|
|
|
|
|
bobruef
Jan 15, 2006, 12:12 PM
Post #17 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884
|
its not his own creation, Its just a sliding x with knots on each arm to limit the amount it would extend if one of the anchor points failed.
|
|
|
|
|
dvd
Jan 15, 2006, 3:05 PM
Post #18 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2005
Posts: 111
|
aeray, like bobruef said its a sling with nots in the end to limit dynamic loading if one of the anchors failed. I called it my own creation cause I tied it out of skinnier than 1inch webbing. If you were use a standard sewn sling, the knots make it to short to be really effective. Tieing the knots allows any one piece of webbing or anchor to break and still have an anchor. Hope that answers your question.
Jay, I'm not sure if you are being sarcastic or what. In responce; I live in Arkansas, I'm from Pennsylvania via New York (north of the Park) with summers spent in New Mexico.
|
|
|
|
|
mcfoley
Jan 15, 2006, 3:38 PM
Post #19 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2002
Posts: 644
|
TROLL...
FU
|
|
|
|
|
kydd76
Jan 15, 2006, 4:05 PM
Post #20 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2005
Posts: 228
|
You can get your Lycra at goodwill. Just don’t get the ones that are too stretched out. Looks silly when it’s all baggy in the ars and legs. You want nice and smooth, best if pink or hot yellow. I like anything with polka dots.
Ten draws, if you can get more do.
Two are three links or a few leaver biners.
A few lockers, I have very rarely used more than two when sport climbing.
I love my grigri, but an atc will do.
Some webbing which you should have from top roping.
A high fall rated rope. Sport is about falling all day and not drinking all night, so you can fall all the next day in tip top shape. That’s why I like trad and ice, beer has more calories.
I would say get a nice set of draws. I have BD live wire set light and versatile, and a Petzl spirit set for a smooth clip. I like both about the same for sport. I will not use the Petzl’s if I am climbing ice or in the snow, they freeze up. If you’re on the skinny, I have used Omega’s they are a nice draw for the price.
Cost: more than you want to spend, less than you could. :)
|
|
|
|
|
salamanizer
Jan 15, 2006, 4:57 PM
Post #21 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
|
In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: 4-8 locking bieners Good god what in the hell for? I never carry more than 4... Classic. Jay
There you go, picking nose hairs again.
2 for anchor,
1 on my shoes (multi P),
1 for my prussic (maybe). So do they really count?
Ya know, if you spent half the time actually climbing as you do hiding behind your keyboard, I might be jealous of you.
|
|
|
|
|
matt17
Jan 15, 2006, 5:26 PM
Post #22 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2005
Posts: 85
|
i am looking for a new rope. is a 10.3 edelwiess a decent buy? the fall rating is 10.
so...
10-12 draws
webbing/slings
links
lockers
anything else?
|
|
|
|
|
landgolier
Jan 15, 2006, 5:47 PM
Post #23 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 714
|
That edelweiss is a good rope. For weekend cragging you can skip the dry treatment, too.
Skip the quicklinks, you can get ovals or some other cheap biner for like $4 and bailing that way is much easier, plus you are leaving behind a serviceable bail biner and not a quicklink that could corrode shut. Much easier on your rope, too, unless you use really godzilla quicklinks. Also, don't bail off one bolt when you can walk to the top and rap clean your draws, most bolts are safe and all, but if your number comes up and that one blows after you clean a couple draws below it, you're gone.
|
|
|
|
|
daithi
Jan 15, 2006, 6:55 PM
Post #24 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2005
Posts: 397
|
In reply to: make sure you have a dynamic rope. big falls onto a static rope hurt....
It hurts a little when your internal organs are extruded out through your ribs and your spine is reduced to its constituent parts.
|
|
|
|
|
thatnameisalreadychosen
Jan 15, 2006, 9:05 PM
Post #25 of 70
(8407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 24, 2005
Posts: 45
|
:)
not bieners
:D
not beaners
:lol:
biners
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
