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snakehuntergirl
Mar 10, 2006, 6:24 PM
Post #26 of 37
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Run-out leading doesn't bother me, as long as I feel like I can physically pull the moves. I seem to enjoy the climbing more when I'm moving fast through a run-out section which is below or at the low end my actual climbing ability.I smile the whole time, like a little kid climbing a tree with no fear. I think my hiking/scrambling experience in Red Rock helped with my climbing "lead head."
If I am getting pumped and I'm run out, I'm "usually" able to stay extra calm and focused because I freaking have to!
Also... it seems like I can keep a cooler head and climb better on lead than when I'm following because I'm forced to focus more (as long as it's within my ability).
Here's what does wig me!
Cruxes, at my lead limit down low fucks with my head. Guess I would suck in J-tree and as a boulderer. If I'm wigged right from the start it affects how I feel on the rest of the pitch even if the climbing gets easier. I can still lead through it but I'm not smiling until I finish my pitch.
G
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saxfiend
Mar 13, 2006, 4:09 AM
Post #27 of 37
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In reply to: Larry is olde school...
JL
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vegastradguy
Mar 13, 2006, 4:22 AM
Post #28 of 37
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In reply to: In reply to: Larry is olde school... Is he the guy who still uses a swami belt? :D JL
yeah, and still uses his first belay device, often with great relish. he also considers ATC's newfangled and complex. :shock:
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saxfiend
May 3, 2008, 10:41 PM
Post #29 of 37
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It's with great pleasure that I've rediscovered this thread two years after starting it! Since that time, I've gotten a lot of mileage on lead, runout and otherwise, and my mental approach to leading has grown considerably. Taking a couple of Arno's courses has helped a lot in that regard.
Not long ago, I did what I consider my headiest runout lead to date, P4 of Groover at Laurel Knob. This is a 160' 5.8 pitch with no bolts; I found placements for three pieces of gear. My observation is that being 60-70' above your last cam placement does wonders for your mental focus and concentration on the moves! Probably not something I could have handled at the time I first posted here.
vegastradguy wrote: In reply to: In reply to: Larry is olde school... Is he the guy who still uses a swami belt? :D JL yeah, and still uses his first belay device, often with great relish. he also considers ATC's newfangled and complex. :shock:
JL
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caliclimbergrl
May 6, 2008, 8:57 PM
Post #30 of 37
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I pretty much agree with what you've said. When I'm climbing, my focus is on the moves I'm making, not on what would happen if I fell. I think it has to be that way to be safe! When I get the most nervous is when I put in a piece of pro and I'm safe. At that point, you can look down and see just how run out it is. And it's also possible to hang, or worse, bail (unless you're more than 1/2 way up a rope length). So I let myself think and I look up to see where my next good stance is, or the next good place to put in pro might be. That's when I get freaked. So I try to just clip a piece and keep climbing in one continuous motion so I don't get myself psyched out.
However, I should say that I have taken a very bad fall on a run-out slab climb. I was leading the 3rd pitch of a run-out slab route. The first bolt was about 20 feet up and I was almost there when I fell. I took a really really bad fall, completely scrapped the all of the skin off my arms and legs (I looked like a mummy when the ER was done with me and shattered my ankle baldly requiring surgery where they put in a bone graft and 4 pins. I definitely approach run-out climbs differently now -- as in I'm not sure I'll ever lead a climb again where protection is 20 feet apart. Right now, I'm putting in pro at least every 5 feet and I don't see myself placing further apart than 10 feet ever again. If protection has to be further spaced than that, I probably won't lead it -- it's just not worth not being in bed for a month, no weight bearing for 3 months, and a full year to recover (plus the permanent loss of motion in my ankle).
(This post was edited by caliclimbergrl on May 6, 2008, 8:59 PM)
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bizarrodrinker
May 9, 2008, 11:43 AM
Post #31 of 37
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Then you get those instances where you wouldn't normally have to runnout a climb but you hit a wasp's nest that was hidden in the good placement and after being stung several times feel it necessary to get the fuck out of there when you are already 10 or so feet above your last piece. Then the 15 feet you hauled ass up to get away results in what would be a pretty lengthy fall. but when you finally do get a piece in its nice cause you can finally retaliate against the wasps until they go away.
Those fuckers hurt.
The point being keep your mind occupied with what's important and the runnout won't seem so bad.
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saxfiend
May 9, 2008, 11:49 PM
Post #32 of 37
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bizarrodrinker wrote: Then you get those instances where you wouldn't normally have to runnout a climb but you hit a wasp's nest that was hidden in the good placement
JL
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notapplicable
May 11, 2008, 5:25 PM
Post #33 of 37
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saxfiend wrote: bizarrodrinker wrote: Then you get those instances where you wouldn't normally have to runnout a climb but you hit a wasp's nest that was hidden in the good placement I haven't encountered wasps on lead, but did find a copperhead looking out of a perfect green Camalot placement on a Gunks route. Needless to say, I ran that one out, heh heh. JL
Good thread, I'm just finding it now.
The closest call I've had involved one of the more harmless rock dwelling creatures. I was ropeless, about 40 ft. up and reaching high for a pod when my fingers touched what I could have sworn was a snakes head. I yanked my hand back so fast I nearly pealed off the rock. Turns out it was a mother F'n frog, sure as hell gave me a scare though.
Concerning the OT...climbing above ones gear is its own little art and an often overlooked element of the craft. So far I have found that being as honest as possible with myself about my abilities at any given moment, is the best way to decide whether to go up or down.
When you climb beyond your gears ability to protect, you have put your life squarely in your own hands. Make sure they are capable and strong before burdening them with such a weight. (speaking to the figurative "you" as John seems to have found his stride in this ^^^ regard.)
edited - spelling as usual
(This post was edited by notapplicable on May 18, 2008, 12:58 AM)
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ACJ
Nov 22, 2008, 3:15 AM
Post #34 of 37
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I try to keep moving up. If I stop and look down to my last piece it's pretty much over for me. I also really focus before leaving the ground and try to understand what I am getting into. It has gotten me through dangerous situations as well as helped me bail when it wasn't good.
Recently I tried to onsight a 5.8. Really well protected crack for the first 45 feet or so but then I got off route due to a shotty topo. I found myself 25 feet above my last piece and searching for gear, I looked around and saw the anchors... another 30-40 feet up and to the right with no sign of any gear. The moves were awkward mantles that I didn't feel comfortable reversing. So, I bailed. I traversed farther and farther on easy terrain to get onto a bolted route to my left and came down. Sucked cause it stresses me out to be in that situation but I am glad that I don't blindly continue on without re-evaluating while I climb.
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saxfiend
Nov 22, 2008, 4:58 AM
Post #35 of 37
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ACJ wrote: Recently I tried to onsight a 5.8. Really well protected crack for the first 45 feet or so but then I got off route due to a shotty topo. I found myself 25 feet above my last piece and searching for gear, I looked around and saw the anchors... another 30-40 feet up and to the right with no sign of any gear. The moves were awkward mantles that I didn't feel comfortable reversing. So, I bailed. I traversed farther and farther on easy terrain to get onto a bolted route to my left and came down. Sucked cause it stresses me out to be in that situation but I am glad that I don't blindly continue on without re-evaluating while I climb.
JL
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mar_leclerc
Dec 27, 2008, 11:54 PM
Post #37 of 37
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
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If you want to get used to runout climbing just start leading ice....
Generally if Im really runout I just forget about ropes and pro and focus on what Im doing and execute every move precisely and perfectly. Little things like protection and gear in the back of your mind distract you form what you are doing.
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