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euroford
Mar 10, 2006, 4:08 AM
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well, the weather has gone back and forth on rain or not, so i guess i'll probobly just go anyways. my partner isn't making it so i'll be out solo aiding. if any of you RC.commies are around come say howdy!
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landgolier
Mar 10, 2006, 4:49 AM
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Crap, gotta be in town till like noon...
Vacation in T-minus one week
You staying the night? Sunday looks better right now (which probably means it will hail)
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nudge_nudge
Mar 10, 2006, 5:00 AM
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I am considering it... last weekend turned out to be great. Though I'm not looking for epic training in the rain :D Maybe I'll see you out there. Will you be on the East Bluff again?
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euroford
Mar 10, 2006, 1:03 PM
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yup. i'm thinking i'll go over and lead cheetah first thing.
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euroford
Mar 12, 2006, 5:28 AM
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had a dang good day out there, wish you guys coulda stopped by, i had extra beers in the pack :)
i didn't do cheetah as i orginially planned, instead i started playing around and did a hook traverse all the way from the base of the cheetah to the main face of two pines buttress when i became intreaged by the thin seams winding back and forth up the slab/face. i hopped off, got the pack, rigged a bottom anchor off the trees and set off knowing it would be a bit dicey, but not really expacting it to be as fun as it was. i pretty much drained my rack of small offsets and brass and did probobly 20 hook moves weeving back and forth to connect the thin cracks. i had to dig ALLOT of munge out of the cracks with my tool, so i reckon this doesn't get led very often.
a way fun day!
a couple of other parties were out toproping. one fella says hi and yells up "so doing some practice aiding huh?" i'm like "yup!" and then think to myself while looking at the string of 4kn or less gear below and the shifty talon hook i'm on while trying to get another hook move above "this doesn't feel very practice right now.....
LOL
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neuroshock
Mar 12, 2006, 5:42 AM
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In reply to: a couple of other parties were out toproping. one fella says hi and yells up "so doing some practice aiding huh?" i'm like "yup!" and then think to myself while looking at the string of 4kn or less gear below and the shifty talon hook i'm on while trying to get another hook move above "this doesn't feel very practice right now.....
excellent!!! :lol: :lol: 8^)
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ennui
Mar 23, 2006, 8:21 PM
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Hey all,
This is a bit off topic, but I haven't climbed at the lake yet and I was wondering what you guys do for toprope anchors. Are they bolted or do you just use trees, cracks in the rock, etc...?
Basically, I need to know if I'm gonna need a bunch of extra webbing, or if I'll be fine w/ 2-3 slings...
Thanks,
Max
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neuroshock
Mar 23, 2006, 9:06 PM
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In reply to: Hey all, This is a bit off topic, but I haven't climbed at the lake yet and I was wondering what you guys do for toprope anchors. Are they bolted or do you just use trees, cracks in the rock, etc...? Basically, I need to know if I'm gonna need a bunch of extra webbing, or if I'll be fine w/ 2-3 slings... Thanks, Max
some/most routes take gear at the top; many can be anchored to boulders and trees using webbing. i take:
1x 30' 1" tubular
1x 20' 1" tubular
3x 10' 1" tubular
sometimes i wish i actually had more pieces of 20' or 30' in length.
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ennui
Mar 23, 2006, 10:04 PM
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Thanks a bunch for the quick info!
Even had time to modify my northern mountain supply order to include that stuff.
Thanks again!
Max
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euroford
Mar 26, 2006, 3:13 PM
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In reply to: Hey all, This is a bit off topic, but.....
i'm glad you figured out what you needed to go set up your toprope rigs, and i really don't GAS about having my stupid little thread hijacked, but really dude, what gave you any kind of idea that this would be a good thread to ask about setting up your toprope anchors??
have fun with your webbing, learn how to use the search function, and nextime you need advice on ascender systems go post in the bouldering forum.
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onbelay007
Mar 26, 2006, 5:34 PM
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This may be a bit off topic too so don't be a dick, but can you make another brisket? That was good stuff!!
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nudge_nudge
Mar 27, 2006, 3:36 PM
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Back on topic, who's going to be out there this weekend?
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landgolier
Mar 27, 2006, 3:50 PM
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weather looks oh so good for this weekend right now, I'm in so long as it holds
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sblacksmith
Mar 27, 2006, 3:58 PM
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hey guys n00b here from Chicago suburbs, do you guys to DL every weekend? I've been out there before a few times last season. This season I'll defiantly be out there after my wife graduates and we have more time.
Perhaps we'll see some of you out there.
later
s.
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euroford
Mar 27, 2006, 4:56 PM
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yeah weather looks AWSOME next weekend, hey Steve, if you want more BBQ on sunday you have to go climbing with me on saturday punk!
i sure as hell don't make it every weekend, but i'm really going to do my best to go every other weekend.
steve and i are pretty damn recognizable out at the lake, just find the two dashing young men w/ helmets and an aid rack! rc.commers should always make a point to say howdy!
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nudge_nudge
Mar 30, 2006, 9:53 PM
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Anybody headed out there Sunday? The weather isn't looking as great as Saturday though.
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crazyscuba
Mar 30, 2006, 9:59 PM
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we'll all be out there birthday challenging it up on saturday.
steve
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euroford
Mar 30, 2006, 10:24 PM
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birthday challenging? you wouldn't happen to be the same guy we met last year who on his birthday rode is bike up from madison and climbed all day?
i'll be out on saturday solo aiding the east bluffs. stop by and say howdy, i just might have an extra beer in my pack! :D
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crazyscuba
Mar 31, 2006, 3:19 PM
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nope wasnt me, i think that might have been ian though. i know he did something like that last year. we'll be doing a bouldering circuit with about 6 people so we'll be hard to miss since the flatiron is up there. we'll be the ones with the shiny jumpsuits on. you can see what the circuit is if you check out http://www.birthdaychallenge.com
steve
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euroford
Apr 1, 2006, 2:04 AM
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shiney jumpsuits, lol. awsome.
51deg. f. and partly cloudy. hell yeah boys, its time to go get some.
i best see some rc.fukers leading our there tomarow!!!!
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euroford
Apr 1, 2006, 3:21 PM
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well your not going to believe this crap.
i walked out the back door at 5:25am today with my 40lb pig on my back, breakfast in my right hand and coffee in my left hand. i walked down the three flights of stairs on my back porch and on the last step down my left foot rolled sideways on a little rock and in an instant i was on the ground on my back in AGONIZING pain.
i laid on my back for about 45 minutes, finally got up and spent 20 minutes analyzing the situation (while drinking my coffee, which i actually didn't spill) and then another 30 minutes dragging myself and my stuff back up to the 3rd floor.
well now my left ankle is swolen like crazy and i'm using my desk chair as an impromptu wheelchair. it hurts like none other and i can't put weight on it, but i have full range of motion and the pain isn't -that- bad so i'm comfortable thats nothing is broken.
why weekend however, is fuked. :roll:
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nudge_nudge
Apr 1, 2006, 4:02 PM
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Man, what a bummer! Yeah I'm still hoping the forecast of thunderstorms for tomorrow is wrong, unlikely though.
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landgolier
Apr 1, 2006, 9:14 PM
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In reply to: well your not going to believe this crap. i walked out the back door at 5:25am today with my 40lb pig on my back, breakfast in my right hand and coffee in my left hand. i walked down the three flights of stairs on my back porch and on the last step down my left foot rolled sideways on a little rock and in an instant i was on the ground on my back in AGONIZING pain. i laid on my back for about 45 minutes, finally got up and spent 20 minutes analyzing the situation (while drinking my coffee, which i actually didn't spill) and then another 30 minutes dragging myself and my stuff back up to the 3rd floor. well now my left ankle is swolen like crazy and i'm using my desk chair as an impromptu wheelchair. it hurts like none other and i can't put weight on it, but i have full range of motion and the pain isn't -that- bad so i'm comfortable thats nothing is broken. why weekend however, is fuked. :roll:
That blows. Reminds me of the time I twisted my ankle 3' off the ground at the end of a 3 pitch rap in red rocks. Ice that rascal.
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landgolier
Apr 6, 2006, 5:53 AM
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Anybody want to make a run up there from Chicago this weekend? My regular partner has family in town so I'm up for anything.
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tnwagener
Apr 7, 2006, 6:29 AM
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I can't make it this weekend but have some friends that are meeting at the CCC parking lot about 8am Saturday to climb if anyone is looking to get together to climb this weekend. once summer rolls around I hope to be out in the mornings and every Sunday all day.
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landgolier
Apr 7, 2006, 1:51 PM
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Anybody?
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bbecker
Apr 7, 2006, 2:05 PM
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I can't make it this weekend, but am always looking for DL partners for any weekend.
Bryan
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nudge_nudge
Apr 8, 2006, 12:19 AM
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Anybody climbing Sunday?
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nudge_nudge
Apr 8, 2006, 1:28 AM
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In reply to: piss off. go start an @ DL Sun thread!! :lol: :lol:
Haha!
Sorry for trying to hijack your DL Sat thread with Sundayness.
:lol:
I just found out tomorrow is out for sure, but Sunday is still a possiblility.
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landgolier
Apr 8, 2006, 5:46 AM
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Blashphemers, how dare you violate the sabbath!
I might be able to do sunday, but I'm looking to split the trip up from chicago. Anybody?
Euroford, how's the ankle? When are you going to be back in the aiders? I'd be more than willing to trade some belay bitch time for an aid lesson up there.
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euroford
Apr 8, 2006, 10:46 AM
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In reply to: Euroford, how's the ankle? When are you going to be back in the aiders?
looks like i'll be into it in oh about 3-4 hours from now :)
i reckon i'll be having a pretty mild day though. i actually went out and bought some treking poles, which i'll call "alpine crutches". lol
In reply to: I'd be more than willing to trade some belay b---- time for an aid lesson up there.
i might take you, and some others, up on that offer. i know its doubtfull that my usuall partner can get out every weekend, but it looks like my wife's new job is going to keep her working every weekend. kinda free's me up ya know!
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landgolier
Apr 8, 2006, 1:52 PM
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Hey, some of us with bad knees don't need a twisted ankle to justify trekking poles. Those things are lifesavers.
I mainly need to learn solo systems, so that kind of defeats the purpose of belay bitchery, but any time you want to get out, even for {gasp} free climbing, let me know.
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euroford
Apr 9, 2006, 9:48 PM
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had a damn good day saturday. steve wanted to do some free climbing so we went to old sandstone and had the place to ourselves for the day. steve lead curving crack and then wobbly dihedral. i really wanted to follow, but after watching him tourqing his feet around i got a case of better judgment and got out the ascenders. after his fine performance i had a yearning for the sharp end, and at first i thought it didn't look that intresting, but then had a -total- blast aiding gargantua. thats some very physical aid climbing through that roof with regular daisy's. the top out is the icing on the cake. i got a bomber 1.25 dmm in the little pod and was very stumped until i finally commited a talon hook to a tiny edge which i top stepped for the mantle. yahoo.
after that, a quick drive and a quick repack of gear and we headed up to drink a four pack of guiness on top of cleo's spire to finish the day.
fyi: cleo's spire, northwest side (the beer route) 5.4, gear list in order of use.
1 x dmm 4cu size 1.75 w/ quickdraw
1 x bd camalot size 1
1 x bd stopper size 7 w/ quickdraw (or thread sling through fixed pin)
oddly enough, all three pieces are red.
LOL
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corpse
Apr 10, 2006, 12:51 PM
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Is THAT what that smell was on saturday when I drove past ;-) j/k I almost went to old sandstone on saturday, but saw too many cars (I think I saw like 4 cars when I drove past) - and ended up at horse rampart. But sunday though was my old sandstone day.. From about 9ish to 4ish, there were 4 other people actively climbing that day.. I'm surprised the lake was so dead this weekend.
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euroford
Apr 10, 2006, 2:40 PM
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lol, that lovely odor would have been from us. damn man, wish you would have came up that would have been awsome running into ya. the hikers use that parking spot for the ice age trail i think? i dunno, not my cup of tea.
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mowz
Apr 11, 2006, 4:19 AM
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Corpse, did you run into CSGambill? He was there and said he had a good time.
Whoever is interested, I'll be heading up to DL during weekends. I'll post the week before I will be going. Let me know via PM if you want to split a ride.
I hope those who have read my past posts in community don't take me too seriously. I'm a nice guy.
And NO, I am not a chick (thanks a lot CSGambill; I'll see you on the sharp end).
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corpse
Apr 11, 2006, 11:32 AM
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Nah, I didn't see Chris - I knew he was going up there.. I had my heart set on old sandstone on sunday; him and his partners that day had their sights set on the area I was at that the weekend before. Next time, they will probably go the old sandstone, and then I'll go the area that they'll go to next.. hmmm - maybe they are just seeing if I forget any gear somewhere and score some corpse booty :)
It would be nice to head up there for another day or 2 this month, but I'm going out of town at hte end of the month for a couple weeks - and trying to wrap up some work I might not be able to get away.
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curtis_g
Apr 13, 2006, 3:03 AM
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I'll be up this saturday round cleo's amphi during the day and round upper diagonal afternoon, doorway late.
leaving chitown suburbs with 2 serrious n00bs (no shoes or anything) before dawn on saturday.
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tnwagener
Apr 14, 2006, 4:46 AM
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I'll be going up the east bluff Friday about 9:30 with some friends and hopefully Saturday with relatives. if anyone is interested should be getting to Wall Mart about 9 to carpool from there to save on stickers and stop by the shop that a friend owns right next door (Wildside Adventure Sports- www.wildbaraboo.com) Shameless plug. then on to the CCC lot ad hope to be set up by 10.
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euroford
Apr 14, 2006, 5:58 PM
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i'm going to meet up with the nudge on saturday. take him to aid school on upper diagonal. its going to be a casual day, so come say howdy if your around. chances are nudge will be on lead for like 3 hours (haha!) after i hand him the rack so i might need some company. :lol: :lol:
btw: mowz you always do such a good job on your sigs.
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corpse
Apr 14, 2006, 6:57 PM
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In reply to: i'm going to meet up with the nudge on saturday. take him to aid school on upper diagonal. its going to be a casual day, so come say howdy if your around. chances are nudge will be on lead for like 3 hours (haha!) after i hand him the rack so i might need some company. :lol: :lol: .
ok - I gotta say something... 3 hours (or any # of hours) in aid lessons on upper diagonal, on a gorgeous weather saturday?? that is ridiculous and greedy and downright rude to other climbers.. That place will no doubt have ppl that want to CLIMB that route.. its one thing to setup a TR and hog it for a few hours while you CLIMB the route, and then offer to share the rope - but don't hog such a classic line for aid lessons.. or do it from like 4-8am, then no one can bitch... Tomorrow is 72 and sunny at devils lake - go and make friends, not enemies.
Now, go enjoy the weekend! I'm taking hte weekend off climbing - I tweaked my shoulder from last weekend and getting it back to 100% - got a moab trip coming up in a couple weeks...
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curtis_g
Apr 14, 2006, 7:21 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: i'm going to meet up with the nudge on saturday. take him to aid school on upper diagonal. its going to be a casual day, so come say howdy if your around. chances are nudge will be on lead for like 3 hours (haha!) after i hand him the rack so i might need some company. :lol: :lol: . ok - I gotta say something... 3 hours (or any # of hours) in aid lessons on upper diagonal, on a gorgeous weather saturday?? that is ridiculous and greedy and downright rude to other climbers.. That place will no doubt have ppl that want to CLIMB that route.. its one thing to setup a TR and hog it for a few hours while you CLIMB the route, and then offer to share the rope - but don't hog such a classic line for aid lessons.. or do it from like 4-8am, then no one can b----... Tomorrow is 72 and sunny at devils lake - go and make friends, not enemies. Now, go enjoy the weekend! I'm taking hte weekend off climbing - I tweaked my shoulder from last weekend and getting it back to 100% - got a moab trip coming up in a couple weeks...
I agree, if there's going to be a crowd there...please don't aid it.
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euroford
Apr 14, 2006, 7:37 PM
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you guys should know me better than that. we'll be more than happy to clear off the thing if need be. remeber i'm the one always bitching about the topropers stealing routes all day.
my aid antics out there have always resulted in more conversation and intrest, not a one has bitched yet.
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curtis_g
Apr 14, 2006, 8:02 PM
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In reply to: you guys should know me better than that. we'll be more than happy to clear off the thing if need be. remeber i'm the one always b---- about the topropers stealing routes all day. my aid antics out there have always resulted in more conversation and intrest, not a one has b---- yet.
well i can't wait to stroll up saturday afternoon and see some of those antics on Upper D. I'm looking for a run at it myself in the afternoon, like i said, before lunch, me group of 3 will be by cleo's needle. See ya there.
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mowz
Apr 18, 2006, 2:43 PM
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As noted in my previous reply, I wil be making notice of when I'll be going up to the lake. I will be going this Sunday (04/23/06). I will be leaving around 5 am for The Lake. Hope to see you guys there; if a ride is needed, please PM me by Friday. Thank you.
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euroford
Apr 18, 2006, 2:48 PM
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well nudge didn't make it out, but i did and had fun soloing congradulations again. thats a fun aid route with a couple of thin spots, and a couple of hooks, still totally C1 but requires some trickery to avoid free moves.
it was very crowded this weekend, its always fun to be aiding on a crowded weekend, allot of poeple stop by to yell up questions and encouragment, especially when your solo. after i got done i kinda chilled and watched the topropers come by, then a fella walked up with a bug to lead congrats, so i gave him so beta and watched him get started. after 3 falls on the first 10 feet i took off to get home early. i wish he was on the forum, i'd like to know if he sent!!
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landgolier
Apr 18, 2006, 2:52 PM
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Anybody want to hit it this weekend from chicago? Would prefer a long day trip sunday, but could adjust for others' preferences/weather. Aid or free, especially interested in checking out old sandstone.
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euroford
Apr 18, 2006, 3:28 PM
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you havn't been to old sandstone yet? holy shit dude get over there. curving crack (5.8) and wobbly dihedral (5.9) are total classics.
oh yeah, and the rock has FRICTION man! FRICTION!!
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euroford
Apr 23, 2006, 11:57 PM
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LOL, didn't go climbing today as planned. post banff flim festival activities found us drinking our way around town and watching night turn to morning from my front porch with beers still in hand.
the film festival was fukin awsome. i won a patagonia r2 vest in the raffle!!! i never win anything, especially not cool shit that i actually want.
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euroford
May 4, 2006, 12:10 PM
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well looks like i'll be out at the lake on saturday, solo again because my partner is an assclown, he'll be wasiting his weekend of all things, working. :shock:
first things first, i'm going to lead that thing posted up above. if you see me up there crying or sniveling or something, please don't laugh.
:lol: :lol:
come say hi to me. i get lonely and the savage topropers scare me.
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kymonkey
May 9, 2006, 1:11 PM
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learn to lead!
Not trying to be rude but its the only way to get the full effect of climbing.
Peace, love, and chalk dust.
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curtis_g
May 9, 2006, 10:33 PM
Post #55 of 75
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In reply to: learn to lead! Not trying to be rude but its the only way to get the full effect of climbing. Peace, love, and chalk dust.
are you drunk?
who are you talking to?
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onbelay007
May 11, 2006, 2:56 AM
Post #56 of 75
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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Going for the full weekend! I'm just as excited to camp and build a nice fire as I am about climbing. Euroford and I will probably be free climbing on the East bluff on Saturday and Sunday we're going to aid and work on some hauling techniques. Stop by and say hi. I'll have a new Black Diamond haul bag that I'll be trying to get dirty and beaten in so you should be able to spot me pretty easily.
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jackpinesavage
May 12, 2006, 1:16 AM
Post #57 of 75
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Registered: Dec 27, 2004
Posts: 48
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My first time out to DL in the 60's, I was fooling around right next to this piece. There were two brits out there climing but one had forgotten his shoes. The other said "i can climb that in my stockings" The bet was on.
He climbed it in his socks so the other had to do the same. then the time was right for " I can climb that with no pants etc. They just kept at it until all they were wearing was the rope. YOu could get away with that back then. Nice rock
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euroford
May 15, 2006, 10:08 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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time for an update, now that i have two trips to update on....
last weekend i pulled a solo trip, driving up friday night, camping over and climbing on saturday (5/5-5/6). weather was nice, cold at night though and Onbelay had my cold bag so i was stuck shivering in my 40deg. the next morning i got on my little project pictured above and basiclly got my ass handed to me. lol. the easy slab and chimney would have been a 1 min. job free with a proper belay, solo belay laden with an aid rack it was a ROYAL PITA!!! after finally gaining access to the headwall the "C3" rating promptly turned into an A4+ rating as i really figure anything that close to the ground would be. after two reachy hook moves, a funky #1 HB offset and another hook move all above a ledge, i realized it would basicly be that way to the top. my kind of terrain, but definitly not worth the risk for an afternoon of goofing around at the lake. i bailed off and solo aided congrats again just to salvage the afternoon, just as i got started a group showed up intending to film who i believe to be the rc.com user dancingmadlybackwards climbing and then taking a major whipper off the route. they were cool and didn't bitch about me finishing my lead, then i had good entertainment watching her take a damn fine whipper for the camera.
this weekend, as steve mentioned above we were out at the lake all weekend climbin in the rain. we had the place entirly to ourselves on sunday and shared the east bluffs with the single most incompetent guided group climb i've ever seen on saturday. i was actually freaked out pretty seriously by these poeple, even though a couple of them did actually sound like they knew that they were doing. well, whatever.
so we spend the weekend working on big wall tactics, climb up, build anchor, fix rope, haul pig, finish climb, build anchor, fix rope, haul pig, drink beer. that worked fine once with me leading upper d on sat. and once with steve leading upper d on sun.
also on saturday i tried another route, over to the right of upper d, the REALLY steep crack buitifull that kind of pitters out 12ish feet from the top, a thin hook/ballnut traverse take you up through some chossy blocks underneither the 'summit boulder'. anybody know the name?
well anyways, that one went like this: climb, build anchor, fix rope, haul pigs, climb, crackpitters out, tenous hooks/ballnuts to loose rock, shove big cams behind loose blocks, reach around end to big right traversing hook move, try to high step hook to mantle out the top of the route, hook blows, tim whippers onto cams behind loose blocks, rope gets two coreshots on sharp flake, try to climb back up, 100lbs of blocks shifter under bodyweight/big cams, bail off route, fix torope, jug up to retrieve gear.
lol. cool route, i might just be back for a rematch on this thing, but at this point i was ready for dinner and a beer.
all in all, an excellent weekend to be out braving the elements for big wall training purposes. we had a riot, steep routes kept most of the water off us, softshells and capalene mitigated the rest of it.
wtf, now that the old schoolhouse is closed, where are some guys supposed to get a pizza around there? we went to friggin pizza slut, seriously, that can't possably be the best option, or, uh, is it???
(i guess i was in a typing mood eh)
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curtis_g
May 15, 2006, 10:30 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
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this saturday. who will I see there.
East bluff, probably, all day. I'll have me and my buddy trad climbing (he won't be leading anything) and then probably 3 others that are big n00bs I will throw a TR for while I lead.
Look for me, I will be wearing a red bandana around my head of long messy hair.
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onbelay007
May 15, 2006, 11:38 PM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2004
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I was belaying Euroford when he took his lead fall and don't believe him about taking a core shot to the rope. I saw it--merely a flesh wound.
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curtis_g
May 15, 2006, 11:45 PM
Post #62 of 75
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
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In reply to: In reply to: also on saturday i tried another route, over to the right of upper d, the REALLY steep crack buitifull that kind of pitters out 12ish feet from the top, a thin hook/ballnut traverse take you up through some chossy blocks underneither the 'summit boulder'. anybody know the name? sounds vaguely like Sometime Crack/Direct...that what you're talking about?
sounds like it to me. Sometime Crack is the steep crack rite of the diagonals on the piece of bluff that sticks out just like the rock to the left of the diagonals. Starts on like a 10-15 ft boulder? Steep crack, usually climbed with a 5 ft traverse through a horizontal crack once the vertical one 'pitters out'
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mowz
May 17, 2006, 2:22 PM
Post #64 of 75
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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euroford, I'll be there this Sat.
Hope to see you there and put a face to the name.
I'll be in a blue Patagonia shell with a red BD pack on. I'll also be with 3 others. The other guy is a bigger guy (not fat, just tall and muscular) with glasses.
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curtis_g
May 18, 2006, 12:27 AM
Post #65 of 75
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
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I'll be up all this saturday.
Say 'hey' to Curtis in a red bandana under all my hair.
I'll be leading with my buddy 'round upper D
and setting TRs for some other friends.
{edit}
Oh, and any daredevils should hook up with us for some
cliff jumping by mirror lake afterwards or mabe sunday
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euroford
May 21, 2006, 3:18 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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was up saturday for the day with rich (Justsendingits) actually 'gasp' freeclimbing. had an absolutle blast, but despite being in damn good shape now i -really- need to get back into the freeclimbing groove. i flailed all over everything, it was basicly embarasing and i logged a good bit of air time, but had an absolutly excellent time. climbed berkely, petes proj, michaels proj and brintons.
holy shit was is it a madhouse or what? i don't recall the place being that crowded in a really really long time. so many kids/boy scouts too. but ran into plenty of cool climbers as well.
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corpse
May 21, 2006, 5:12 PM
Post #67 of 75
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
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In reply to: holy s--- was is it a madhouse or what? i don't recall the place being that crowded in a really really long time. so many kids/boy scouts too.
I'm actually glad I didn't head up this weekend.. But alas, I'm still allowing my shoulders to recover from pullin down hard in indian creek and the moab crags :)
I look forward to many weekDAYS at the lake, when hopefully there will be less crowds - I'll save the weekends for working :) hmm, I mean, I can prolly put a good 30 hrs in on a weekend.. 2 days on, 5 days off, would be ideal...
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mowz
May 21, 2006, 10:34 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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Cou;dn't make it to the Lake. Sorry. I looked on weather.com and saw that there was 50% chance of t-storms and with my luck, it would have turned to 70%.
I guess Lady Luck hates my ass. If I went, it would have poured. I don't go and it's blue skies nirvana.
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euroford
May 22, 2006, 2:01 AM
Post #69 of 75
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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i've learned not to look at the weather report, just always bring a rain jacket!
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euroford
May 24, 2006, 9:07 PM
Post #70 of 75
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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Tom, man your lucky you can exploit those weekdays. sure wish i could!
steve and i will be up all weekend, along with his sister. we plan to camp fri, sat and sun nights, but not climb on monday. if you see us at the crags say hi, and we'll probobly be camping in either ice age or wheelers. if you see a blue chevy cavalier (steves car) w/ trango and dmm stickers in the back window say howdy. always willing to share a beer in exchange for yuking it up with fellow climbers.
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euroford
May 29, 2006, 7:01 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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well, camping at any decent place turned out to be a completely laughable concept. my first trip up during a holiday weekend, what a fukin madhouse. we ended up staying at a horrible ghetto campground north of baraboo on 12. full of totally plowed polish fuktards that were yelling and playing techno 24hours a day. we didn't hardly sleep a wink and skipped camping out sunday night and went home.
the climbing on the other hand was pretty good. we were also joined by steves sisters friend Ben. lemme try to remeber what we did....
saturday:
steve leads berkley, i follow and clean, casey and ben tr.
i lead celebration, casey topropes, i toprope again to take down rope
ben and i attempt orgasm on toprope, steve succedes
casey and ben toprope foreplay
i lead petes project, everybody else topropes - being a crummy freeclimber i was pretty happy to have finally lead that one.
i aid callipigeanous crack, steve jumars to clean
i aided up the initial c1 crack, then continued straight up into what i would call c3 territory on the blank face. about 30 feet of good and bad hooking with a #3 offset and a #1 ballnut, both marginal to the next ledge where i finally got some good cams before grunting up a sqeeze chimney to the top. the bottom crack was a quick pleasure, the upper blank face was serious aid trickery, the squeeze chimney was absolutly miserable with all of the aid gear on. a thunderstorm rolled through for 20 minutes and drenched me while standing on hooks at the crux. overall, it was a dicey 4 hour lead, but i recomend it for anybody who actually wants to do some hard aid at the lake. impossable without the #1 ballnut though!
sunday:
steve leads the 5.7 crack to the right of lost face, i follow and clean, casey topropes the path of least resitance out to the right, ben follows.
we wanted to climb at weisners afterword, but the VE guys had hung topropes all over weisners and parts of the cleo amp. we ate lunch, then i lead the spire, casey came up then i lowered her down, the guys sat on top and had a beer.
we were cooked out by the sun and heat, called it a weekend and pigged out a Pedro's back in madison before jetting back to chitown.
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corpse
May 30, 2006, 3:09 AM
Post #72 of 75
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Registered: Jan 17, 2003
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4 hrs for an aid climb?? ack - yeah, this is why I won't aid climb - I dont' have the patience.. Nor will I ever belay someone that long on a single pitch of a climb..
Although I wish I coulda made it up this weekend, I ended up going for just today.. It was a casual day out, mostly to enjoy the weather - plus I had brought 5 kids with (12 and under - yikes!).. I thought something was wrong this morning, as of 9:30 am there was NOBODY around. CCC lot had 3 cars in it, and south shore by the boats had 1 car (minus trailers) - for such a gorgeous day it was so dead.. Although, the afternoon when we left, the place was hopping with grillers at the lake. Including one family who thought it was ok that the adults and kids cruise around on a mini sport bike...
Oh yeah, I even climbed about 30 or 40 feet today - that route was definitely an onsight (and no, I have no idea what route)
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mowz
May 30, 2006, 4:13 AM
Post #73 of 75
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
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What's today? 29th? Yeah. I got up there about 3 hours behind schedule and saw the lot rather empty. I saw about 5 other parties up at the crag. Where the "F" was everyone? Did everyone go home early cuz of the temps.?
BTW, what ever happened to common courtesy?
I cleaned The Rack for by partner (C), dropped the rope and cleaned his anchor. Then, I remembered that there was a party who had set up a TR next to The Rack so I shout down and ask the party if I can just rap off the TR so I wouldn't have to hike down the trail. He turns to C and says that they are going to jump on the route. The shit then starts to remove his sandals and slowly puts on his shoes. I then thought to myself, "Is he serious? Did he just tell C that they are going to jump on the route and that's why I can't rap off the TR?"
When I finally get back to my bag (from hiking that stupid trail in aggressive shoes), I see that the two yahoos are indeed on the route, but the climber is 5 feet of the ground. It would have taken me 10 seconds, literally, to rap off the TR.
WTF?! I have never encountered people not letting anyone else rap off a TR before. It didn't matter who the rappeller was or who the rope gun was. I think it's just common courtesy. Were these yahoos noobs? Were they just plain old inconsiderate? Am I blowing this out of proportion? It really stupefied me for the duration of the hike.
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tnwagener
Jun 13, 2006, 11:36 PM
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Registered: Feb 7, 2006
Posts: 45
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I work in the Dells all summer and only get Fridays off and am getting to know a lot of the regular climbers at the lake. Let me know if there is interested in joining me. Not a top tier climber but i belay anyone and love the sport.
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