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sbaclimber
May 12, 2006, 4:05 AM
Post #26 of 36
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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In reply to: nice picture, thats what i was picturing in my head, i'm still planning to try it out and see how much that rope actually gets hung up around the tree.
Still keen to hear how it goes though (even though my expectations are the same as cracklover's).
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curtis_g
May 15, 2006, 3:42 AM
Post #28 of 36
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
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Ok, so I had given up on my no trace eight pull and was awake this past weekend in my tent and was thinking about more ways or how to make my old way work, and I though about another way to accomplish getting that stinkin little runner down AND keep trhe full length of your rap.
here's what I thought of.
ok, so you toss the runner 'round that tree and you have two loops there. take one and put in an 8 on a bite or some other restricting knot to leave about a 1in. loop in the end.
then. thread your rope first through the big open loop and then through the restricted loop of the runner that has been passed behind the tree.
now. tie your n number fisherman's knot in the end of both sides of your rope. procede to rap like usual.
when. you get to the bottom, PULL the end that passes through the restricted side of the runner FIRST, WITHOUT undoing your n number fisherman's knot
and. when that fisherman's reaches the top give thr rope one of those little flicks that sends the wave up the rope. shake it a little and the rope should pass through the unrestricted loop of the runner and not get through the restricted end pulling your runner down and saving you a few bucks.
tada! anyone want to try...or you can just wait till next monday/sunday night...ill be at devil's lake next saturday/sunday and ill check out just how easy that 'little flick' sends the knot through the first loop of runner.
anyone heard of this before or seen it done? if not, and it works it will be called the 'restricted runner rappel pull'. (please work!) :lol:
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sbaclimber
May 15, 2006, 4:13 AM
Post #29 of 36
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As I requested before, please video tape yourself testing this. I would really like to 'see' the result.
There is about a 1:100 chance that you will actually get the knot to 'flick' through the open loop, and about a 1:1,000 chance if you trying to pull your rope on anything less than ideal terrain.
(yes, I still think it will get stuck)
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curtis_g
May 15, 2006, 4:17 AM
Post #30 of 36
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In reply to: As I requested before, please video tape yourself testing this. I would really like to 'see' the result. There is about a 1:100 chance that you will actually get the knot to 'flick' through the open loop, and about a 1:1,000 chance if you trying to pull your rope on anything less than ideal terrain. (yes, I still think it will get stuck)
wait 1 week for verbal results, a bit more for video of what happens
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sbaclimber
May 15, 2006, 4:22 AM
Post #31 of 36
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In reply to: In reply to: As I requested before, please video tape yourself testing this. I would really like to 'see' the result. There is about a 1:100 chance that you will actually get the knot to 'flick' through the open loop, and about a 1:1,000 chance if you trying to pull your rope on anything less than ideal terrain. (yes, I still think it will get stuck) wait 1 week for verbal results, a bit more for video of what happens |
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rocketsocks
May 15, 2006, 6:22 AM
Post #32 of 36
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Registered: Feb 11, 2006
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I just tried curtis's new technique (knot in the end of the rope) using my foot as an anchor and surprisingly it worked fairly well (until it got caught on my foot). Realistically I'd have to say that just about any technique where you end up with a sling loop on the end of your rope(s) is just asking for it to get caught on something on the way down.
What this really needs is something mechanical, I think. Some sort of spring loaded / triggered gizmo which releases one part of the anchor sling and then grabs on to the rope after the rope end has partially passed through it.
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greenketch
May 15, 2006, 3:34 PM
Post #33 of 36
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Registered: Jan 12, 2005
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In reply to: Realistically I'd have to say that just about any technique where you end up with a sling loop on the end of your rope(s) is just asking for it to get caught on something on the way down. What this really needs is something mechanical, I think... .
I agree, In the Tree climbing world they often use a "Tree Saver" for limbs or trees that have sensitve bark. Essentially this is a long quickdraw with a large rap ring on one side and a small one on the other. The end of the rope gets a knot tied in it after being fed through both rings. Then when you pull from (from the small side) the knot goes through the large ring releasing the draw and then catches on the small ring. the whole shebang then pulls down.
In the climbing world you could do similar if you were to pass a runner around the tree. Then in the two bights that are formed clip a small biner on one and a HMS or large pear on the other. Then tie a overhand in the end of the rope. When you pulled the rope the overhand should work it's way through the pear but catch the small one.
All of that said I forsee a real challenge with a loose runner and two floppy biners actually making it to you at the bottom. Especialy in any knd of a brushy route or one with lots of chicken heads or cracks.
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sbaclimber
May 16, 2006, 12:20 AM
Post #34 of 36
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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In reply to: All of that said I forsee a real challenge with a loose runner and two floppy biners actually making it to you at the bottom. Especialy in any knd of a brushy route or one with lots of chicken heads or cracks. |
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tradrenn
May 16, 2006, 12:45 AM
Post #35 of 36
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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I don't think it is going to work cause the friction between a tree and a rope, but there is one think I can think of that would make it easier. A poolie.
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greenketch
May 16, 2006, 3:21 AM
Post #36 of 36
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Registered: Jan 12, 2005
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If you want to use a poolie than you need to dig upthe thread on testing toy biners. There is quite a discussion on how to set poodles as pro.
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