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pilotpilgrim
Jun 14, 2006, 2:23 AM
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I've read the threads, and this is my first post here - so please be graceful...
I climbed The North Ridge about three weeks earlier. I can offer a brief description of the (fixed) anchors and a possibility of what happened, as well as my condolences. I'm truly sorry that this happened.
The fixed anchors (when I climbed) consisted of three solid pitons which were connected with a loop of black 11mm static line and 2 aluminum rap rings. I didnt' rap from there but topped out. I hate pitons so I belayed my second from there with additional gear to back them up. (a photo of the slab can be found here (http://www.pbase.com/fromtheheart/image/59774098)
As to what may have happened, the first thing that comes to my mind are unlocked biners that opened when weighted. I have witnessed biners opening when weighted by a rap or a top rope. Two biners suddenly pressed together will sometimes open if they are not locked. THREE BINERS SEEM TO MAKE IT EVEN WORSE. I've seen this happen.
I do not like rapping, but understand it's a necessity for climbing. I hope that the truth can be discovered for the sake of those who will continue in this fabulous sport.
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collegekid
Jun 14, 2006, 3:56 AM
Post #102 of 130
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Condolences.
I had a fall over the summer, and luckily made a full, rapid recovery. Honestly, knowing who's fault it was (likely mine) doesn't change anything. Laying blame won't undo the past.
Climbing is dangerous. Everyone knows this, and if not, they shouldn't be climbing. Som is lucky to have died quickly, and while doing something she loved, rather than in a car wreck like thousands of other people (what a waste!) or from some long-term illness. From my accident, I no longer fear quick death--it happens so fast, you're not even aware of it when it happens. I didn't even know I fell until I was at the bottom, staggering to my feet. Hopefully the loved ones can appreciate that she was most probably not in any pain whatsoever.
I think even if this particular case was a freak accident, or a careless error, it won't change the fact that climbing is dangerous. These things happen, and they happen frequently. So if you are willing to take the risk, be careful, and take it seriously.
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varape
Jun 19, 2006, 7:21 PM
Post #103 of 130
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My climbing partner at Kendal Cliffs was with Donnie & Som in North Carolina when Som fell on rappel. I'm not aware of any investigation other than the ones done by officers and news reporters. Unlike the newspaper articles, my friend says something went wrong with the anchor; she has no idea what. So it does not sound like Som's rope came untied from her harnass as one new source stated, or that it released from the anchor, as another newspaper reported. I doubt anyone went back up to look at the anchor under the circumstances, so I have no other information. Since my partner is not currently climbing, I have not been back to Kendal Cliffs since the accident. Guess we're all still shaken.
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cchildre
Jun 19, 2006, 7:46 PM
Post #104 of 130
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My condolences to all involved. I am not going to guess what happened or who was at fault. I think the fault is totally irrevelant. IMO, every climber is responsible for their own safety during a rap off.
What I would like to ask, is that if a definative account of exactly what caused the accident is found that someone provide us with a full recount, just so we may all learn from, and aviod such a tragedy in the future. We can all appreciate the grief of the passing, and thus no rush for this info. It just seems so unclear at this point. It may never be clear. Which is why this might be so difficult a loss. Again, all my remorse for this passing.
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clmbsfe
Jun 22, 2006, 12:08 AM
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There is an investigation going on. A lot of information is being compiled. Hypotheses are being formulated and tested against the known facts in the accident. All known parties involved have been interviewed. When the investigation is complete, hopefully we will have a better picture of exactly what happened. Again, these things take time. Please be patient.
If you were at the scene on that day, or know someone who was, please email me privately with your contact information.
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clmbsfe
Oct 4, 2006, 2:30 AM
Post #106 of 130
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Thank you all for your patience. Analysis of the accident, which resulted in Som Gallo’s tragic death, is complete. The following brief scenario is what investigators agree most likely occurred that day.
1. Incorrect rappel rope set-up.
After the two ropes were tied together (using an overhand knot with 18” tail), they were improperly placed in the anchor system. We believe that both ropes were placed in the carabiners together with the knot and tail on one side of the anchor biners and both ropes coming out of the other side. The ropes were therefore never actually connected to the anchor system.
2. Incomplete check prior to rappel.
When the system was checked, the locking carabiners were pinched and then locked. Som weighted the system and it held her. Now, if the biners are locked, and when weighting the rope it holds you, you would think all is well, and proceed on rappel. However, Som was standing on a slab and weighed about 90 lbs. Therefore, only a small amount of weight was actually placed on the system during this crucial check. The checks that were completed were typical checks on a system prior to rappel. Som proceeded on rappel and when her full weight came on the system, at the edge of the slab, the knot pulled through the biners and released the ropes she was rappelling on.
3. What else was a factor?
There were 4 people involved in the rappel set-up. All were experienced climbers, including Som. There was no single person in charge, or second person responsible for checking the work of the first. In all, there were 6 people on the ledge (members from 3 separate climbing parties). It is possible that the level of activity was a factor in the improper rope attachment and then missing the error during the system check prior to rappel.
Som was cold and anxious to get down. This may have been a factor in both making the error and then missing the error, on the part of the other experienced climbers in the party.
As well, the safety routine established by Donnie and Som, which was always followed, was not followed on this day. As a rule, Som rappelled after a more experienced climber descended, in case she needed assistance. She went first on this day. As a rule, Donnie always set-up the rappel and completed the system check, himself. On this day, other experienced climbers took that responsibility.
4. How can this be avoided?
The error made when setting up the ropes was missed when checking the system. A critical visual inspection of the rope attachment should have revealed the misplaced lines. The long tail may have contributed to the confusion, as it appeared to be set up correctly. In addition, a physical trace test was not performed. This is when one side of the rope is physically traced (not just visually) from the knot at the far end, up through the brake hand, through the belay device, around the carabiner (which is locked and attached to buckled harness), back through belay device, up through locked carabiners at anchor, to proper knot tying ropes together, with new rope coming back down through belay device, around carabiner, back up through the belay device, down through brake hand and down to ground where the a knot is in the other end.
Physically touching and tracing the rope through the closed system would allow the climber to notice any part of the rope placement that was not where they wanted it. (Checking the anchor and harness can be done using a similar tracing method).
5. Recommendations.
Remember that all the people involved were experienced climbers. Mistakes can happen to anyone. Be careful. Check and double check each other thoroughly, and retrace the system.
Don’t rush. Limit distractions. Take care when altering your set routine.
For those who have been climbing for a while, but still rely on others for system set-up and checking, I strongly recommend that you learn for yourself how to set-up and thoroughly check a system prior to climbing or rappelling. Take some courses from a reputable organization or highly skilled and knowledgeable climber(s). Remember that showing and teaching are very different. Many skilled climbers may be able to show you what they do, but may not be able to thoroughly teach you what you need to know to keep yourself safe. Books can be a good source of information to add to your coursework.
Stay safe.
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clmbsfe
Oct 4, 2006, 2:31 AM
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posting issues
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clmbsfe
Oct 4, 2006, 2:32 AM
Post #108 of 130
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Thank you all for your patience. Analysis of the accident, which resulted in Som Gallo’s tragic death, is complete. The following brief scenario is what investigators agree most likely occurred that day.
1. Incorrect rappel rope set-up.
After the two ropes were tied together (using an overhand knot with 18” tail), they were improperly placed in the anchor system. We believe that both ropes were placed in the carabiners together with the knot and tail on one side of the anchor biners and both ropes coming out of the other side. The ropes were therefore never actually connected to the anchor system.
2. Incomplete check prior to rappel.
When the system was checked, the locking carabiners were pinched and then locked. Som weighted the system and it held her. Now, if the biners are locked, and when weighting the rope it holds you, you would think all is well, and proceed on rappel. However, Som was standing on a slab and weighed about 90 lbs. Therefore, only a small amount of weight was actually placed on the system during this crucial check. The checks that were completed were typical checks on a system prior to rappel. Som proceeded on rappel and when her full weight came on the system, at the edge of the slab, the knot pulled through the biners and released the ropes she was rappelling on.
3. What else was a factor?
There were 4 people involved in the rappel set-up. All were experienced climbers, including Som. There was no single person in charge, or second person responsible for checking the work of the first. In all, there were 6 people on the ledge (members from 3 separate climbing parties). It is possible that the level of activity was a factor in the improper rope attachment and then missing the error during the system check prior to rappel.
Som was cold and anxious to get down. This may have been a factor in both making the error and then missing the error, on the part of the other experienced climbers in the party.
As well, the safety routine established by Donnie and Som, which was always followed, was not followed on this day. As a rule, Som rappelled after a more experienced climber descended, in case she needed assistance. She went first on this day. As a rule, Donnie always set-up the rappel and completed the system check, himself. On this day, other experienced climbers took that responsibility.
4. How can this be avoided?
The error made when setting up the ropes was missed when checking the system. A critical visual inspection of the rope attachment should have revealed the misplaced lines. The long tail may have contributed to the confusion, as it appeared to be set up correctly. In addition, a physical trace test was not performed. This is when one side of the rope is physically traced (not just visually) from the knot at the far end, up through the brake hand, through the belay device, around the carabiner (which is locked and attached to buckled harness), back through belay device, up through locked carabiners at anchor, to proper knot tying ropes together, with new rope coming back down through belay device, around carabiner, back up through the belay device, down through brake hand and down to ground where the a knot is in the other end.
Physically touching and tracing the rope through the closed system would allow the climber to notice any part of the rope placement that was not where they wanted it. (Checking the anchor and harness can be done using a similar tracing method).
5. Recommendations.
Remember that all the people involved were experienced climbers. Mistakes can happen to anyone. Be careful. Check and double check each other thoroughly, and retrace the system.
Don’t rush. Limit distractions. Take care when altering your set routine.
For those who have been climbing for a while, but still rely on others for system set-up and checking, I strongly recommend that you learn for yourself how to set-up and thoroughly check a system prior to climbing or rappelling. Take some courses from a reputable organization or highly skilled and knowledgeable climber(s). Remember that showing and teaching are very different. Many skilled climbers may be able to show you what they do, but may not be able to thoroughly teach you what you need to know to keep yourself safe. Books can be a good source of information to add to your coursework.
Stay safe.
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sausalito
Oct 4, 2006, 3:01 AM
Post #109 of 130
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Registered: Jul 20, 2005
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wow. That made the most sense. Sad stuff. I was at that ledge back in August and had a small moment even though I had never met Som. Just all the sudden remembered reading this thread and got kind of heady.
In hospitals before procedures are done the RN or Dr. do something called a "timeout". It is basically a moment when all activity stops and the most basic of tasks that were already completed are done again (i.e. make sure its the right patient, make sure you are about to do the right procedure)... basic shit. It saves lives. I have started to use a timeout at anchors and belays. I havent caught a mistake yet but its something I think everyone could do.
I even made a small pocket sized laminated timeout sheet for my wife when she is following me on multipitch. She is competent but she has said that it makes her feel much more assured that what she is doing is correct.
Thanks for the info. I hope others learn from this....
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sausalito
Oct 4, 2006, 3:02 AM
Post #110 of 130
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wow. That made the most sense. Sad stuff. I was at that ledge back in August and had a small moment even though I had never met Som. Just all the sudden remembered reading this thread and got kind of heady.
In hospitals before procedures are done the RN or Dr. do something called a "timeout". It is basically a moment when all activity stops and the most basic of tasks that were already completed are done again (i.e. make sure its the right patient, make sure you are about to do the right procedure)... basic shit. It saves lives. I have started to use a timeout at anchors and belays. I havent caught a mistake yet but its something I think everyone could do.
I even made a small pocket sized laminated timeout sheet for my wife when she is following me on multipitch. She is competent but she has said that it makes her feel much more assured that what she is doing is correct.
Thanks for the info. I hope others learn from this....
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billl7
Oct 4, 2006, 4:45 AM
Post #111 of 130
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Thank you clmbsfe for closing the loop for us all on this one. I started to pick out quotes to emphasize the points but stopped as your report states them very well and clearly. Those exact things have also happened to others around us. Even so, hearing about them again does help others of us, does help me. I believe that the report will also play a role in helping those near Som to heal - wishing you all the best.
All great points you make: someone being responsible, take care when deviating from a routine, and be vigilant when there is pressure to rush.
Thank you again.
Bill L
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billl7
Oct 4, 2006, 4:45 AM
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Deleted - RC.com is sending false negative messages about whether a post was completed.
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billl7
Oct 4, 2006, 4:46 AM
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Deleted - RC.com is sending false negative messages about whether a post was completed.
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majid_sabet
Oct 10, 2006, 5:19 AM
Post #114 of 130
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To avoid problems in vertical environment and reduce confusions, all parties should discuss their plan of action among each other as clear as possible. Anchor and tie offs should be set as clean and as simple as it could get.
http://img414.imageshack.us/...8950/key70085hb4.jpg
Senior members should not allow lease experienced member to rappel first. Climbers with lack of rigging experience must rap in between strong climbers.
http://img45.imageshack.us/...8184/key70139ar7.jpg
At each rappelling station, all anchor and rap system must be checked again to make sure it can handle the rappel, that is including checking bolts, loose nuts, any sign of crack from old age, corrosions, etc.
http://img438.imageshack.us/...9678/key70096ue6.jpg
No one should disconnects their life line without getting permission from other members and only do it when they are properly attached to belay device and ready to rap to next station.
http://img238.imageshack.us/...9238/key70105cz3.jpg
In tight spots where spacing is an issue, ropes / safety tie offs must be organized to avoid problems.
http://img438.imageshack.us/...1626/key70091ua3.jpg
Never try to correct your belay device / rope / hand positions by disconnecting yourself while hanging without a safety attachments.
http://img238.imageshack.us/.../322/key70135kk0.jpg
http://img413.imageshack.us/...9910/key70137fy2.jpg
http://img46.imageshack.us/...382/ra9300629jf6.jpg
Photos were taken in Yosemite on Oct 1, 2006
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majid_sabet
Oct 10, 2006, 5:24 AM
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boss asked to remove photos cause they are NOT related to this topic
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cindylou
Oct 10, 2006, 6:04 AM
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Majid, I noticed a locking biner is not used to attach the climber to the anchor in the pics you posted.
In my opinion, a locking biner is a safer way to attach to an anchor.
Condolences to Som's family and friends. I'm sure she is missed very much.
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climbinginchico
Oct 10, 2006, 7:11 AM
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EDITED: to remove majid's photos as per request.
Buuuut, still:
You should use locking carabiners to connect climbers to the anchor!
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 10, 2006, 12:23 PM
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...
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majid_sabet
Oct 10, 2006, 4:26 PM
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removed
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boku
Oct 10, 2006, 5:23 PM
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Waffles
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epic_ed
Oct 10, 2006, 5:46 PM
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I'm putting an end to this before it gets outta hand. This thread will not degrade into a debate about anchors and rappel techniques.
Majid -- you're well intentioned, but I'm asking you to remove your photos and comments above and start your own thread. Let's keep this one on topic.
Ed
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cchildre
Oct 12, 2006, 9:05 PM
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Thanks for the update. I think this is exactly how a thread of this nature should end. IMO, it should go report, condolences from others with updates, and a final official analysis. No conjecture or theory about what happened. Another thread for that. My heart goes out to all who were involved. I truly cannot imagine how hard this has been. Safe climbing to all.
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jonescd
Oct 12, 2006, 10:02 PM
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In looking at the posts, I would examine two questions.
Was the addition of the third biner above the main anchor or below, if above it could pull the opposing strand across the other two gates and then put all of the force on the third which somehow failed. My other thought, and the more probable statistically, is that one strand was locked in the rappel device and the other was not, essentially allowing one strand to zip through (did they inspect to see if the ends were still even?). This type of accident could occur with even a more experienced climber. Another possibility is that the other rope had a much greater stretch elongation than or the other was of a smaller diameter allowing a stretch effect through the device. For the knot to make a popping sound makes me think it simply popped through the biners rather then coming out of the gates (caused by by one strand zipping past the other)- thus it really needs to be determined whether the ends were without a doubt even post-accident. My two cents without criticism of the climber (she sounds very safety conscious) - could happen to the best of them and many of you (and not commonly taught). In my personal opinion the old style eight rings are safer than most devices for rappeling because they don't tend to lock one strand and not the other (unless you aren't paying attention).
My regrets for the family,
Chris
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jonescd
Oct 12, 2006, 10:26 PM
Post #124 of 130
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I now read the updates and it makes sense, I had figured that the knot made the pop through the biner. Some of my closest climbing friends have had horrible accidents from simply rushing to do things quickly - not that this was the case here but patiently checking. I am glad that the analysis was made for the family for closure. I would add that the the third carabiner addition may also cause the second strand to be pulled into the remaining carabiners if both strands went through the third.
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jonescd
Oct 12, 2006, 10:28 PM
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I now read the updates and it makes sense, I had figured that the knot made the pop through the biner. Some of my closest climbing friends have had horrible accidents from simply rushing to do things quickly - not that this was the case here but patiently checking. I am glad that the analysis was made for the family for closure. I would add that the the third carabiner addition may also cause the second strand to be pulled into the remaining carabiners if both strands went through the third.
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