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olderic
May 10, 2007, 2:09 PM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: Rock and ice, You just described a JAM Crack Not a Jug Haul....
If you know how to jam, cracks can be a jug haul. i.e. Cro-magnon (Crow Hill, MA). However this is supposed to be in a sport climbing context... but then again occassionally there are bolted cracks - they tend to spawn the best religious debates.
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tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 2:15 PM
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A solid hand jam is bomber but it is a hand jam not a freaking jug WTF?? Duhhh..... the only way your going to get a 5.10 jug haul on a trad line is if it is a bunch of horozontals. Now the gunks seems like it would have that sort of thing but all the tens I have done there were thin fingery scary things,Not jug hauls...
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olderic
May 10, 2007, 2:22 PM
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Oh come on - with a username like yours you should know that a "jug" is anything you can hang onto and pull up on with one hand/arm. Gunks grades are real - meaning a 5.10 is somrthing that you actually have to work up to - not an inflated number that a 10 year old girl can climb after 2 weeks in the gym. But try and get on Star Action if you want a 10 with big holds.
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tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 2:57 PM
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Hey. i'm not the one with the ego problems here... A jug is a jug, a crimp is a crimp and a jam crack is freaking jam crack. It ain't fckn rocket science and there ain't no need to get all huffy about how much you hate spurtclimbing unless you have a really small weiner and your 20lbs over weight and can't do those climbs you love to hate.. I spurt climbed rumny last week, tradclimbed at cathedral yesterday and most likly will go boulder a few 5.7 trad climbs localy this afternoon but what the heck that has to do with the best 5.10 jug haul in the country i haven't figured out yet. Maby that 10 year old girl can kick your ass, maby that's it
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olderic
May 10, 2007, 3:06 PM
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No problem - I'll kick your butt on sport, trad or bouldering, aid or ice - you choose. I wasn't the one whining about "scary 10's" at the Gunks.
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michaelmay513
May 10, 2007, 3:09 PM
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"Fire In The Belly" 5.10d at Dierkes Lake, Twin Falls Idaho. This route was dubbed the "Steepest 5.10 in the country with the biggest holds you will ever fall from" by Rock and Ice magazine. Sorry that I can't remember the issue #.
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tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 3:53 PM
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AAHHHH now were slinging the shit. Eric. I didn't whine about anything?? WTF? I haven't climbed much at the gunks since my rack got stolen there in 86, but the few 10s that i did there back then were definatly not jug hauls. Instead of pointing me to a nice 5.10 jug haul at the Gunks Somehow you turn that into a sportclimbing bash and now your gonna kick my butt and show me what a great climber you are when the only qestion that was really asked was . What is the best 5.10 JUG HAUL? Not, the best jam crack or crimpfest over a crappy nest of microwires. Must be the small weiner syndrome again Seriously though a good climb is a good climb regardless of weather or not it is bolt protected. A good jug haul is a blast if your clipping bolts or slamming cams into huecos or horozontals. Why the need to feel superior to another style?? See me sportclimbing and the tradman monnicer is obvious. I'm the geek wearing the helmet and I got an oh shit kit on my harness thashing my way up 10s. I got pleanty of respect for the guys mantaining the crag and pulling that stuff even though I am much more at home over on Canon cruiseing up Moby or Vertigo or the Black Dike on a nice cold day. It's all good....
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michal104
May 10, 2007, 5:10 PM
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I have to second "Breakfast Burrito" at the Red. If you've done it you probably agree. "Pogue Ethics" is pretty damn sweet as well.
I'm going on a trip there with my girlfriend in a week and both of these climbs are high on the must do list. Nothing feels better than a RRG plate jug.
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tradmanclimbs
May 10, 2007, 7:52 PM
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Actually the best 5.10 jug that i know of is the root iside the crack at the top of the Prow, Cathedral ledge NH
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gunkiemike
Jun 6, 2007, 11:38 PM
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I dunno about your area, but at the Gunks, if it's a jughaul, it's no harder than 5.6 (think Madame G's) to 5.8 (Son of Easy O). A 5.10 is going to have MUCH smaller holds (see Directissima for a "fingerhaul" route).
That being said, I have seen a very powerful short toprope (hey, that's almost the same as sport climbing...right? ) line out at Lost City that clocks in around 10. But ya gotta get through the tips layback first, to get the full juggy, arm-bursting 5.10 sensation at the roof. Yea, baby!
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highangle
Jun 6, 2007, 11:51 PM
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Damn, I thought this thread was going to be about Hooters and the like......
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nonsight
Jun 12, 2007, 1:23 AM
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joshy8200, perhaps you should go back to the New and clip some more bolts while learning to climb harder trad...
when you say stuff like thisIn reply to: considering you're asking for the 'best', sport routes are OUT in my opinion
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 12, 2007, 11:26 AM
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That looks pretty cool. I love sandstone huecos
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 12, 2007, 4:35 PM
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Is that climb limestone? it lookes like sandstone and i assumed it wass in Arizona so sandstone was my thought. Either way it looks pretty darn fun.
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jt512
Jun 12, 2007, 4:37 PM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: Is that climb limestone? it lookes like sandstone and i assumed it wass in Arizona so sandstone was my thought. Either way it looks pretty darn fun.
Yes, it's limestone. There is a lot of limestone in AZ.
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drljefe
Jun 12, 2007, 10:18 PM
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Mr. Slate's good. One could argue that many of Jack's 11's are actually 10's, in which case I'd vote for one of those fun 11b's. Naah, Mr. Slates more... mature.
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nivlac
Jun 12, 2007, 10:39 PM
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j_ung wrote: michal104 wrote: Nothing feels better than a RRG plate jug. Bullshit, you ridiculous n00b slime! What, a New River Gorge iron-band jug feels like shit now? Fuck you! (Just keeping with the spirit of the thread. No offense meant.  )
haha!! pretty funny dude.
I suggest boltergeist, 100ft 10a/b in Muir Valley RRG. And I think Slick and the 9mm 5.10b at Drive By is a really enjoyable jug fest from start to finish, even though Breakfast Burrito is pretty good.
Pogue Ethics is a 9+ since we're talking about .10 jug hauls.
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brokenankle
Jun 12, 2007, 11:27 PM
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Here are my top 3:
y2k - Red Rock, NV (sporty becuase there is one bolt at the crux)
horseshoes and handgrenades - Horseshoe Canyon, AR
Northcutt Start - Eldorado Canyon (also sporty with fixed gear at the crux, although im not sure how many falls it will hold)
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climbsomething
Jun 12, 2007, 11:35 PM
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It is, I bleeve, Kaibab limestone, which is a sandy variety.
And polished and pumpy as hell.
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curt
Jun 13, 2007, 4:40 AM
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brokenankle wrote: Here are my top 3: ... Northcutt Start - Eldorado Canyon (also sporty with fixed gear at the crux, although im not sure how many falls it will hold)
Since that climb is a slab, with a crimpfest crux, how exactly, does it qualify as a "Best Jughaul" route? Just curious.
Curt
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