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bobruef
May 9, 2007, 5:18 PM
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svilnit wrote: bobruef wrote: Oh, I almost forgot! [image]http://it.stlawu.edu/~tbudd/hiv200.jpg[/image] booyah!  Get out of the lab and climb!!!! 
ahh, you're so right my friend.
Too true, too true.
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j_ung
May 9, 2007, 5:24 PM
Post #77 of 112
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maldaly wrote: Hi gang, Here are the photos of the braze failure that Micah Dash witnessed. THis happened at the Reservoir Wall (IC) on 4/29. The climber wasn't hurt because he had another cam in about 2 feet down. There was about 50' of rope out when he fell. We may not hear from the owner of the cam. He was, according to Micah, "some 'euro dude". Be safe out there... Mal  
Thanks, Mal. And thanks to Micah, too. That certainly looks like the same type of failure as the recall cams. Is that a date stamp in the top pic? If so, I can't read it. Any idea?
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Dillbag
May 9, 2007, 5:28 PM
Post #78 of 112
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Registered: Feb 9, 2007
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No, there is no date stamped on that side of the trigger, it is located on the opposite side. (side in photo says CCH Alien)
It is possible that it was a recalled Alien, as "Micah said 'it was some euro dude'"
May not have heard of the recall to check for a dimple...
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boku
May 9, 2007, 6:19 PM
Post #79 of 112
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Registered: Jun 11, 2004
Posts: 278
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dynosore wrote: Yeah, Sick Sigma will make it all better. Six Sigma BB = "I don't have any real skills"
"He doesn't know how to do anything. He just knows how to do things better."
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wideguy
May 9, 2007, 6:31 PM
Post #80 of 112
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who was it that said recently ...
"I'd rather climb on a rack of slung water glasses than a rack of Aliens at this point."
I'm paraphrasing maybe, but damn, not much confidence in those at this point.
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granite_grrl
May 9, 2007, 6:39 PM
Post #81 of 112
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I'm sure the Alien die-hards will continue to sing praises for a little while at least.
Down with the ship??
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j_ung
May 9, 2007, 6:43 PM
Post #82 of 112
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wideguy wrote: who was it that said recently ... "I'd rather climb on a rack of slung water glasses than a rack of Aliens at this point." I'm paraphrasing maybe, but damn, not much confidence in those at this point.
That was me. Wine glasses. 
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taino
May 9, 2007, 6:44 PM
Post #83 of 112
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granite_grrl wrote: I'm sure the Alien die-hards will continue to sing praises for a little while at least. Down with the ship??
I'm an Alien die-hard. I truly feel that they are head and shoulders above any other cam in their range, and fit where no other cam dares tread.
That said, I'll not be buying any new Aliens until 1) CCH is bought out by someone else and 2) the new owners show - publicly - that they are willing and able to do the proper QC.
I only hope that it happens soon. I can't stand the C3s, and Metolius cams make me feel dirty.
T
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wideguy
May 9, 2007, 6:45 PM
Post #84 of 112
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granite_grrl wrote: I'm sure the Alien die-hards will continue to sing praises for a little while at least. Down with the ship??
The thing that gets me is the apparent Ostrich syndrome. "Until we see proof.... All these accusers and no pictures... "
You can still have faith and climb on them if you want, you can argue that it's a statistically small sample ... whatever. but stop insisting this is some sham conspiracy whatever. The pics are out there. A portion of these units, a frighteningly high portion IMHO, ARE failing in ways they shouldn't.
(This post was edited by wideguy on May 9, 2007, 6:47 PM)
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taino
May 9, 2007, 6:54 PM
Post #86 of 112
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granite_grrl wrote: taino wrote: and Metolius cams make me feel dirty. Don't worry man, its like watching porno. You'll stop feeling dirty after a while and then you can just sit back and enjoy it. 
*snort*
I ~like~ porn. I will ~never~ like those ridiculous dual-stem Metolius cams.
T
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j_ung
May 9, 2007, 7:01 PM
Post #87 of 112
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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HEY! My TCUs had an exhausting weekend of keeping my fat ass off the deck, and I'll thank you not to insult them.
Of five catches on one route  , the only one that wasn't caught by a TCU was held by a Power Cam!
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svilnit
May 9, 2007, 7:02 PM
Post #88 of 112
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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granite_grrl wrote: taino wrote: and Metolius cams make me feel dirty. Don't worry man, its like watching porno. You'll stop feeling dirty after a while and then you can just sit back and enjoy it.
Nice.... I'm going to use that next time my friends bust on my metolius rack 
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taino
May 9, 2007, 7:08 PM
Post #89 of 112
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j_ung wrote: HEY! My TCUs had an exhausting weekend of keeping my fat ass off the deck, and I'll thank you not to insult them. Of five catches on one route , the only one that wasn't caught by a TCU was held by a Power Cam!
Now, now, Jay... pick the panties out of your crack, and relax. I'm not saying that the Metolius cams aren't good - I'm saying that I can't stand the way they feel. Kinda like Astroglide rather than Vaseline - both work, but one feels much better.
T
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paulraphael
May 15, 2007, 2:38 AM
Post #91 of 112
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Registered: Feb 6, 2004
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Important question ... I haven't found a reliable answer to this:
Have any of the failures involved aliens stamped "Tested"?
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curt
May 15, 2007, 3:02 AM
Post #92 of 112
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taino wrote: ...I only hope that it happens soon. I can't stand the C3s, and Metolius cams make me feel dirty. T
Hey Taino,
Just out of curiosity, what don't you like about the C3s? I was thinking about picking up a few (for obvious reasons) but I haven't used any of them yet.
Curt
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papounet
May 15, 2007, 4:08 AM
Post #93 of 112
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Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 471
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taino wrote: I can't stand the C3s, and Metolius cams make me feel dirty. T
Try the zeros.
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josephgdawson
May 15, 2007, 4:22 AM
Post #94 of 112
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Registered: Jan 20, 2004
Posts: 303
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tradmanclimbs wrote: First of all the only real advantage for aliens is in the small sizes and off sets. You would have to be nuts to choose an orange alien over a red camalot. Now that The C3s and 4s are here the only reason to go with a standard alien is price. Buy a cheap piece of crap and take your chances or spend the big bucks... it's the way of the world. If you are an aid climber and have to use offsets its fine cause aid climbers are used to crap gear anyways
You clearly have absolutely no idea about what you are talking. A Red Camalot is closest to a Purple Alien. An Orange Alien is closest to a Green Camalot. If you do not know what you are talking about, and clearly YOU DO NOT, then do not pretend you do.
Secondly, there have been countless times in which I have tried to place a BD Camalot in a pockety spot in a crack and it would not fit no way no how and an Alien fit easily.
Too bad the quality control at Alien stinks. Too bad that the new BD C3s are complete pieces of shit too. I may have to check out Metolios gear. I no longer feel comfortable above an Alien. While I still carry them because they fit where nothing else will, I try to place a BD as soon as I can get one in a bomber placement.
On Aliens' website, I see that the send some units into a lab in Denver for testing. Does anyone know the name of the place or the name of another place that does this kind of work? I sent mine into Alien after the first recall and they tested them, but I aint feeling so reassured by that anymore.
(This post was edited by josephgdawson on May 15, 2007, 4:54 AM)
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josephgdawson
May 15, 2007, 5:04 AM
Post #95 of 112
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Posts: 303
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j_ung wrote: maldaly wrote: Hi gang, Here are the photos of the braze failure that Micah Dash witnessed. THis happened at the Reservoir Wall (IC) on 4/29. The climber wasn't hurt because he had another cam in about 2 feet down. There was about 50' of rope out when he fell. We may not hear from the owner of the cam. He was, according to Micah, "some 'euro dude". Be safe out there... Mal [IMG]http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k50/maldaly/TempPhotos/AlienFail2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k50/maldaly/TempPhotos/AlienFail1.jpg[/IMG] Thanks, Mal. And thanks to Micah, too. That certainly looks like the same type of failure as the recall cams. Is that a date stamp in the top pic? If so, I can't read it. Any idea?
I just took a close look at the picture of the Purple Alien that failed, and I see the tigger wires are still attached. If this cam ate a fall and broke, then why did do the trigger wires still look fine?
On the failure of the yellow Alien, you can see that the entire stem came out, so it makes sense that the trigger wires were still intact.
So, unless the cable on the purple Alien came out and the Euro reinserted it for the photo, I do not see how the trigger wires are still intact. What do you think?
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zeke_sf
May 15, 2007, 5:18 AM
Post #96 of 112
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
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josephgdawson wrote: Too bad the quality control at Alien stinks. Too bad that the new BD C3s are complete pieces of shit too.
Completely agree with the former. But why the C3 bashing? Not picking on you, man, but everybody seems completely disillusioned with them. I have the two largest sizes and I think they're fine. If you expect Aliens, they're different. If you expect an easy pull on the trigger, they don't. Maybe it's the overhype on BDs part, or the overpricing that pisses people off so bad. They could definitely do with a price reduction; to appease the pissed off masses if nothing else. I like having both 3 and 4 lobes as an option in my small cams. Apparently zeros will have to be that other option. Is there a recent picture of a green alien failure out there? That's the only one I own I haven't seen exploded, imploded, or fallen apart in some picture here lately.
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curt
May 15, 2007, 5:33 AM
Post #97 of 112
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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josephgdawson wrote: ...Too bad the quality control at Alien stinks. Too bad that the new BD C3s are complete pieces of shit too...
Same question I asked Taino: what is the problem with the C3s? Obviously, you have a strong opinion here, so hopefully you have some strong facts to back it up.
Curt
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curt
May 15, 2007, 5:53 AM
Post #99 of 112
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the_leech wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Don't worry man, its like watching porno. You'll stop feeling dirty after a while and then you can just sit back and enjoy it. You've got it backwards. You can sit back and enjoy it for a while (about four minutes for me), but then feel all dirty after. But maybe the experience is different for chicks...
...or non-Catholics.
Curt
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norushnomore
May 15, 2007, 8:05 AM
Post #100 of 112
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Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
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Curt, have no idea why people hate them, but I like them a lot and place them a lot.
And they do open up some new options not possible with aliens or other small cams
The only problem I have so far is the lack of the larger sizes like orange alien or purple c4
I protected OZ r rated first pitch start and reeds direct r rated last pitch with them to reduce r to a very comfy pg13 by finding places where only c3 would go.
This year they ended up been prime gear on the stoner's
and I even managed to place one on the off-width runout on the last pitch of Good Book: tiny zigzaging crack accepted a c3 at the point where it was changing it's direction (had to flip cam around as it would fit one way only)
And stiff spring is a big plus: cam stays planted
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