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iridesantacruz
Sep 28, 2002, 10:11 PM
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well i have boreal ace. i went to the gym today and they were fine for about an hour. then they started to hurt alittle, and closer to two hours my back of my foot started to get irritated. i was not wearing socks. when i normally wear them they are snug, but my toes are pushed together quite abit. im a size 10 and so are the shoes. so are they to tight?
chris
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wlderdude
Sep 28, 2002, 10:30 PM
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Sounds to me like you bought them to big, but I guess that is a personal thing.
If you can wear them for over an hour, you just need to break them in, they fit just fine.
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rockjock04
Sep 28, 2002, 11:34 PM
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I just paid (luckily only) 40 for a pair of shoes that are too small. I ordered them a whole size down. I literally can't stay in them for more than 2 minutes.
anyone interested in five.ten VX's size 6?
I also have a pair of boreal somethings, which fit nicely. they even make a fart sound when I take my foot out, they are so snug.
I also had another pair of shoes that I couldn't wear more than 15 minutes. Poor craftmanship. 15 bucks off ebay, no namers.
You got a descent shoe. Did you try on others?
You'll be fine
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boulderingmadman
Sep 28, 2002, 11:36 PM
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im a size 10, street shoe. i have sportiva cobras that are an 8.5(US) that made me want to cry when i first got them, but now fit like gloves. i have a pair sportiva mistrals that are aize 8(us) and just a bit baggy. i have a pair of boreal ballet golds(which i hate) size 9.5(us) and i just dont like them. and i have a pair of 5.10 v10s size 10(us) which, even after breaking them in, i cant wear for more than a half an hour without being in extreme pain. it depends on the shoe...
personally, i think your shoes will be just a touch "floppy" for you when they finally break in. buying a street shoe size can be sketchy(of course, this is opinion) because after countless hours of stretching and climbing in them, the leather will, well, stretch. but, if youre gonna be doing long trad routes with thin socks, they are probably gonna be perfect.
its all a matter of comfort and performance. what do you want the shoes to be able to do, and how long will you be wearing them without popping them off?? i primarily boulder and sport climb, so i prefer a tight, sensitive, aggressive slipper that i can pop on and off and walk around in my flip flops. its a matter of personal choice, depending on what kind of climbing you primarily do, and what sort of performance you need from your shoes...
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superbum
Sep 28, 2002, 11:41 PM
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I have the same shoes (they look pimpin' eh?) and I love them. I've had them about nine months now. When I first got them my toes really bothered me, felt like they were smashed together. I ended up loosening, and I mean Loosening, ALL of the laces before putting them on. Then I left the laces closest to the toe alone and began to tighten the shoe, and I mean Tighten, at about the fourth hole up from the toe. Make sence? That helped in the short run. As of now, the shoe has stretched a little and my toes are doin' better, but I still don't crank-tighten the "toe laces." I have some irritation at the top of my heel, but shit, nothing's perfect. Hope this helped!
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beyond_gravity
Sep 28, 2002, 11:56 PM
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Almost every company uses UK sizes (five.ten uses US, thats why it seems like your buying your shoes to big with 5.10)
you can't normally wear your shoes for an hour...at least I cant.
I can wear my trad shoes all day, but they are really floppy, I wish I got them smaller.
I'd say you got the right size if you want a comfy shoe
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boulderpaul
Sep 29, 2002, 6:37 PM
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I climb V10...
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waxman
Sep 29, 2002, 7:06 PM
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Don't worry you're fine--
My shoes are a size and a half smaller than my normal shoe size. My toes are quite squished but I don't mind. Once I'm on the rock, I don't really feel any pain.
God Luck!
Craig
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daggerx
Oct 1, 2002, 3:11 AM
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If your feet dont bleed then they are not to tight, I wear a size 11 1/2 to 12 street shoe and my climbing shoe if a 9 and I wish they were tighter. It takes a wile to get used to them, after a wile they fit like a glove. Also I think you bought them to big, you should atleast get a size smaller.
DaggerX
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lilred
Oct 1, 2002, 11:10 PM
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They're supost to hurt like hell before you break them in...
To break in a shoe:
put the shoes on and soak for 5-10 minutes
DO NOT TAKE THE SHOES OFF UNTIL THEY DRY COMPLETELY...
this usually takes a few hours, so its a good idea to go climbing while they're drying...
it hurts like HELL but if you go climbing on them, they will conform to your feet perfectly...
my rock shoes are 2.5 sizes smaller than my street shoes.
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maskokalover
Oct 7, 2002, 2:23 PM
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i have a pair of sportiva's and they are size 9, i'm size 11. They really hurt on the first run or two of the year, but after that, they feel great. They need to be really tight, you dont "buy big and grow into them" ya buy small, reallly small. at least one size smaller than your street shoes.
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cheers!!
~mark
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gorgeclimber
Oct 7, 2002, 3:04 PM
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Bottom line--your shoes don't sound like they're too tight, but it is personal preference and dependent upon how aggressive you're going to be with your climbing.
Also, each manufacturer (and brand within the manufacturer) will be sized & will fit differently. Sport shoes will stretch over time more than the stiffer-constructed trad shoe.
If you're out havin' fun on 5.9s, then a looser more comfy fit may be just fine. If you want to stick on the ledges of a 5.11, then you're going to need something more aggressive which will be less comfortable.
Tradeoffs abound. In terms of climbing performance, the only technologies that we have are food, chalk, and shoes (ok, maybe tape). Given the tremendous strides (no pun intended) in shoe technology, they are getting very specialized. I've reached the conclusion that I'll end up with several shoes for different applications.
Hope this helps....
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lobsterstickstomagnet
Oct 8, 2002, 1:45 AM
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solution=strech them
i baught my 5.10 spires 2 sizes to small, once i streched them they were perfect.
i usually wear them about 4 hours, walking around in them a bit helps get blood flowing and they dont hurt as bad, then i wearthem with socks for a few hours, then u put on 2 pairs of socks and wear them in the shower, this really help
i dont think youll have to do as much as i did but do wear them in the shower, and continue wearing them till they are compleatly dry or they might shrink
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flattracker23
Oct 8, 2002, 2:04 AM
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I have a pair of Boreal Aces too. I wear a 9 1/2 US street shoe. I bought my shoes in a UK 8 (Boreals are sized in UK sizes). That is a 1/2 size smaller than my street shoe. They were so tight at first that I could not even wear them for an hour. Now that they are broken in I can wear them for 2 hours or so.
[ This Message was edited by: flattracker23 on 2002-10-07 19:40 ]
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ajkclay
Oct 8, 2002, 2:54 AM
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Boreal Aces do tend to hurt the back of your foot, it's the way they cover the stitching with that tape, it rubs, and irritates after a while.
The size is probably OK as the Aces are not as oversized numerically as other shoes tend to be. As long as your toes are snug against the end. Aces aren't meant to crush your toes as much as other shoes,(You should see the shape of my toes after wearing Dominators ) but what you report sounds OK. Don't go stretching them, or soaking them, or you will end up with a pair of floppy shoes that you can't do anything with. Let them stretch in their own good time.
[ This Message was edited by: ajkclay on 2002-10-07 20:00 ]
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coldclimb
Oct 8, 2002, 2:55 AM
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I've got boreal aces too, and they rubbed a bit the first few times I used them in a long time. After one use, they didn't rub the next time I went. I think you just need to get your feet used to them.
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tanner
Oct 9, 2002, 6:09 AM
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My street shoes are 11 my climbing shoes(5.10) are 8.5 I wish they where a little tighter. Its all about prefrence. I think my shoes are comfortable. But I wouldn't say there comfortable like a par of fuzzy mocasins. Comfortable = I'm not crying
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old_school
Oct 10, 2002, 2:45 PM
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Buy smaller shoes next time, they can never be to tight.
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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 10, 2002, 11:50 PM
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I'd take all the advice about getting climbing shoes more than one size down from your street shoe size with a grain of salt. It's really a matter of what kind of climbing you plan on doing. If you don't know what you like yet, stick with a comfortable, snug fitting all around shoe that has good support (like your Aces). Nothing will kill your climbing buzz quicker than having your feet in mortal agony.
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arron
Oct 12, 2002, 10:43 PM
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I dont know what you all think bu ti take a size 7 USA size in street shoes and i were a size 5 1/2 USA climbing shoe that is like 37 i think and i can last an hour
because the worlds not flat climb on
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grigrigirl78
Oct 13, 2002, 12:45 AM
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I buy my shoes exactly 2 sizes smaller than my reg. shoe size. It's a little painful for a couple of days but within a few weeks they are a dream! It's more a preference on how you like your shoe to fit. I like mine nice and snug and no socks!
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curt
Oct 13, 2002, 1:30 AM
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There is no "right" answer to this. If you think your shoes are too tight--they may be. Or, the shape of that shoe may not be a good match to the shape of your foot. Try on some larger shoes of the same kind, and also a few others that have different last shapes. Unfortunately, this is largely a trial-and-error process.
Curt
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danp
Oct 15, 2002, 4:45 PM
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I just bought a pair of the aces as well. I got them in US 11.5 and I wear a size 12 street shoe. They are TIGHT! I climbed in the gym with them yesterday and had to take them off after about 20 minutes. I put them back on after about 5 minutes and then wore em for another 20 minutes. The thing is that while they seem like they would help my climbing, they actually kinda hurt it because it made me not want to use the toe of the shoe at all. I'm hoping they stretch out some. If I would have bought an 11, I don't think I would have been able to get my foot in the shoe.
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coloradoclimber
Oct 15, 2002, 4:56 PM
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Too tight, Thats IMPOSIBLE!
If your shoes are new and there too tight try heating up some water( a littlte less than a boil) poor it in the shoes than put them on and walk around till the water is gone.
[ This Message was edited by: coloradoclimber on 2002-10-15 09:59 ]
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nbrown
Oct 15, 2002, 5:12 PM
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I wear a 10 in regular shoes but my climbing are 8. you just have to get used to them.
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bighigaz
Oct 15, 2002, 5:54 PM
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Chris, I will definately agree with several people on the ACES... They HURT the back of your feet for a while. I used them for a full day when I first bought them, and my heels started to bleed! It hurt so bad I stopped climbing for the day. I recommend putting piece of tape (or two) on your heel for a while until the shoes are broken in, and the callouses on your heel thicken up a bit... But for the record, you chose a nice pair of shoes! Climb on!
James
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bretterick
Oct 22, 2002, 10:21 PM
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dont get your shoes wet, not only do they over streach too fast, the glue on the soles weakens and you will need to re-sole your shoes or get a new pair sooner. breaking your shoes in is a painfull process, but dont cheat, its not worth it
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gravical
Oct 25, 2002, 11:36 AM
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as long as you can spend a few hours in them without feeling like you want to untie and jump. The smaller the better, but you also do want to enjoy your sport
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maclimber
Oct 30, 2002, 3:42 PM
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On the topic of shoes... my son has started climbing in a gym. At what point do I buy shoes for him?
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coach
Oct 30, 2002, 7:33 PM
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You are the only one that can answer the question since you are the only one that knows how they really feel. Bottom line; if they hurt to much to climb then they are too tight, if they flop around on your foot so that you can't hold edges, they are too loose. Somewhere in between is ideal but it varies for each climber.
Climb On
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overlord
Oct 31, 2002, 1:37 PM
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i would also say too big. at forst i could only wear my stingers for about 10min.
CLIMB ON
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ranski
Nov 1, 2002, 10:35 PM
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A couple of things to consider about the Aces. First it is a lined shoe and won't stretch much over time as compared to an unlined shoe. Secondly, I recall them being a board lasted shoe. It this case it isn't as necessary for it to be so small as to bunch up your toes. This is not the case with a shoe that is NOT board lasted. These types of shoes should bunch up your big toe especially to provide a more rigid platform for you to edge on...as a general rule.
With that said, my first pair of shoes were aces and I bought them about a size and half smaller than my actual shoe size. By the time I got to the top of most single pitch routes I was yanking them off my feet to relieve the pain. Over time I developed open sores on my pinkie toes that would never heal. I have sinced switched to la Sportiva Ethos and went with 1/2 smaller than my street shoes and haven't really noticed a difference. My two cents...
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geoteck
Nov 1, 2002, 11:07 PM
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I just bought new shoes and they are 3.5 sizes smaller than street shoes. I've been climbing in them for three outings and I can already feel them getting better (although they still hurt and I can't wear them for more than 10 minutes). The point is, when they are finished stretching, they will still be nice a snug! If you get shoes that fit in the beginning, they will be too big before long (I did that with my last pair)
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bouldersocal
Nov 1, 2002, 11:25 PM
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in my opinon tight is good. I wear a size 11 street shoe and wear size 9 1/2 climbing shoe. Just wear them a lot and you should get used to it.
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texastechclimber
Nov 2, 2002, 12:28 AM
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Sounds to me like the shoes fit perfect for you. I just recently bought the Boreal Matrix and downsized 2 sizes. When I was breaking them in, the knuckles on my toes would bleed and I could only stand to wear them for about 15-20 minutes. Now I can wear them for about 30-40 minutes before I have to take them off. They edge incredibly well when they are that small for your feet. My last pair of shoes were sportivas and they were only downsized by 1 size. I have noticed a huge difference. My advice is, go as small as you possibly can.
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texastechclimber
Nov 2, 2002, 12:31 AM
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Sounds to me like the shoes fit perfect for you. I just recently bought the Boreal Matrix and downsized 2 sizes. When I was breaking them in, the knuckles on my toes would bleed and I could only stand to wear them for about 15-20 minutes. Now I can wear them for about 30-40 minutes before I have to take them off. They edge incredibly well when they are that small for your feet. My last pair of shoes were sportivas and they were only downsized by 1 size. I have noticed a huge difference. My advice is, go as small as you possibly can.
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campus
Nov 2, 2002, 1:30 AM
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what do you thing about getting a pair of shoes 3 sizes down of my regular climbing shoes, i wear 40 1/2 and the shoes that i want 37 1/2, they make my foot like a ballet shoe, i know i can step in any foot hold with accuracy, but the pain oohh the pain, they kill my foot in seconds. i dont know what to do. O by the way they are the dominator velcro great shoe, great great great.
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the_dodgester
Nov 2, 2002, 11:09 AM
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I think shoe size is entirely up to you. My first pair of shoes i bought about a year ago and were a 8 1/2 (i'm size ten). They were comfy to start off with and as i hadn't been climbing too long i thought they were a nice fit. They did exactly what i wanted them to as i wasn't doing any technical footwork. Now a year on they have stretched and I'm getting onto some more technical routes with smaller footholds and my scarpa helix was beginning to fail me. I went to two shops and tried on many different shoes. This time because i enjoy climbing and wouldn't give it up for the world I decided to buy a size 8 5.10 anasazi velcro, which were quite painful but just about bareable. The first time I wore them I could only just complete a climb then had to rip them off. The second time I wore them I could do two or three climbs and they aren't nearly as painful but i can edge loads better than i could in my 8 1/2 scarpa helix.
It really depends what you want to do in them. I would suggest that if you are only just starting out a nice comfy pair are probably better as they wont put you off the sport. Once you know you like climbing and progress onto more technical routes with smaller footholds then I would buy smaller tighter fitting shoes. Also I would say try lots of shoes on and find one that fits your foot. As my first pair didn't fit my heel properly, but my second pair fit my foot shape better.
[ This Message was edited by: the_dodgester on 2002-11-02 03:10 ]
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boulderpaul
Nov 2, 2002, 3:10 PM
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hey buddy stop complainig, my shoes are size 7.5 and i wear a size 10 shoe, deal with the pain, i cant even wear my shoes for 10 minutes!
[ This Message was edited by: boulderpaul on 2002-11-02 09:17 ]
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repseki
Nov 2, 2002, 4:22 PM
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my footfighters hurt after about ten minutes and my five.tens are good for about 45 minutes.
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memphis_rea
Nov 4, 2002, 10:21 AM
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Shoes can never be to tight
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earsen
Nov 25, 2002, 6:20 PM
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My 2 cents:
If you can bear the pain for the length of one climb, they fit. You don't have to wear them all day. I usually pull my heels out after every climb or two to give my feet a breather. I'm also fairly flat footed, and if you are too, it may be why your feet hurt - those radically arched shoes can really kill a flat footed person.
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buffjcs
Nov 25, 2002, 6:35 PM
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I wear a size 12 street and have a size 8.5 climbing shoe the first couple times out it was pure pain however after the break they have become great. loose shoes create problems with balence and stability for me so like to go ultra snug, the pain goes away after your first few times out.
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calpolyclimber
Nov 26, 2002, 9:05 AM
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I am a size 11.5 to 12 street, and wear size 9 in the 5.10 Spire shoes. The shoe is supposed to point your toes down somewhat, if you want it to really bite the rock. They are gonna hurt, but your feet will adapt. They will callus in the right places, and it will all work out fine.
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rocmonkey
Nov 26, 2002, 9:49 AM
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If you don't cry while wearing your climbing shoes they are too big.
That is what I was told and I wear a size 11 shoe but bought my climbing shoes two sizes smaller.
I can balance on the edge of a quarter, BUT, I'd have to bite my lip to wear them for an hour. They kill me!
Like I said no edge is too small though and they work just fine. Like they say: No Pain, No Gain!
breathe stone
R C
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holmeslovesguinness
Nov 26, 2002, 12:53 PM
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I've said it before, I'll say it again - take all the advice about getting climbing shoes more than one (U.S.) size down from your street shoe with a grain of salt. It depends a lot on personal preference and pain tolerance. Also, some shoes are just not meant to be worn that small. If you are banking on them stretching out to fit properly, make sure it's a shoe designed to stretch a lot (usually slip lasted, unlined shoes with leather uppers).
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topher
Nov 28, 2002, 5:50 AM
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cant stand in the, for more than 2 min, thats perfect!!! site on your couch and put them on, in a day or two they will be perfect. my ana velcros i cant walk in but i cant climb like a mofo in them!!! for real hard sport or bouldering you want them tight tight tight! this is because the more sensitive the shoe the less stiff it usaly is so if it causes your foot to tighten up then the shoe becomes nice and stiff for them small edges, but you still retain sensitivity. if your doing lots of all day trading you sound like you in the right place if they start to get uncomfortable after an houre or so. rember climbing shoes are not street shoes.
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mrhappy
Nov 28, 2002, 6:04 AM
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An hour! Hehehe - two climbs for me. The price you pay to feel the bleeding edge of a hold.
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