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"Technical" Approach Shoe?
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tdsharkey


Sep 17, 2007, 3:38 AM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2007
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Re: [deltav] "Technical" Approach Shoe? [In reply to]
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deltav wrote:
When I am guiding, I use the La Sportiva Cirque Pro. I can hike in them, do 3rd & 4th class plus climb 5.7 with a pack on. All around great shoe.

Thanks for input. I had not come across that one. That does look like a nice shoe. How durable are they?


hamptoncomesalive


Sep 17, 2007, 3:58 AM
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Re: [tdsharkey] "Technical" Approach Shoe? [In reply to]
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Yea I've been looking at the new Acopa shoe. It looks like they are on
my to get list for this spring


split15


Sep 17, 2007, 4:32 AM
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Re: [tdsharkey] "Technical" Approach Shoe? [In reply to]
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I heard "Roller Blades" work really well...


NSFW


Sep 17, 2007, 11:21 PM
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Re: [split15] "Technical" Approach Shoe? [In reply to]
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split15 wrote:
I heard "Roller Blades" work really well...

Wow, you really suck at this. I mean seriously, you’re terrible. Rollerblades? I wasn’t sure if there was some real low level humor in there somewhere that I missed (and I’m pretty low brow), so I slammed my head into my desk a couple of times, huffed some glue, and then re-read your post. It still sucked. Don’t get me wrong, I love smart ass replies. But yours was missing a crucial element: something funny or offensive. Leave the comedy to the professionals, son. Here, have a lollipop.


deltav


Sep 20, 2007, 4:37 PM
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Re: [tdsharkey] "Technical" Approach Shoe? [In reply to]
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Very durable...so far


ocary


Sep 20, 2007, 5:21 PM
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Re: [NSFW] "Technical" Approach Shoe? [In reply to]
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NSFW wrote:
split15 wrote:
I heard "Roller Blades" work really well...

Wow, you really suck at this. I mean seriously, you’re terrible. Rollerblades? I wasn’t sure if there was some real low level humor in there somewhere that I missed (and I’m pretty low brow), so I slammed my head into my desk a couple of times, huffed some glue, and then re-read your post. It still sucked. Don’t get me wrong, I love smart ass replies. But yours was missing a crucial element: something funny or offensive. Leave the comedy to the professionals, son. Here, have a lollipop.

http://www.amazon.com/.../102-9693421-6003330

These better? You sound cranky, maybe you need a time-out instead of a new pair of skates ya whiny little bitch. Wink


To the OP. No matter what you get, make sure it fits. Buddy of mine got the shoes everyone was saying "these be the cats pajamas" so he bought them. He hated them. Got something else that fit right but came with less acclaim and has been way happier.

Personally, my approach shoes are Vasque trail runners I picked up at REI half price. They were half price for a reason. Marginal comfort and they stink to high heaven --- worse than my climbing shoes.

N.

p.s. NSFW, Gimme a lollipop. Now!


paulraphael


Sep 23, 2007, 2:57 PM
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Re: [tdsharkey] "Technical" Approach Shoe? [In reply to]
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The bigest issue with approach shoes (besides fit) is whether to get ones that are closer to climbing shoes or closer to trail/running shoes. there's a whole continuum.

I got some 5.10 insights this year, and love them for long approaches. I backpacked into the Cirque of the Towers with them (with six days worth of food and gear) and had no trouble. And they were great on technical approaches, wet slabs, dirt, boulder hopping, etc.

They were not so great last weekend when I went to Cannon and forgot my rock shoes! I tried to climb a 5.8 hand crack in them. They literally torqued off of my feet whenever I tried to jam them and stand up! And they're too fat and sloppy to edge well. I gave up!

I borrowed my partner's 5.10 guide tennies for the 5.7 multipitch we did the next day. These were much better for climbing on cracks and smaller edges than the insights. But I would not have wanted to hike a long approach in them, or a long mountain descent.

[edited ... i got the name of the insights wrong]


(This post was edited by paulraphael on Sep 23, 2007, 5:41 PM)


grampacharlie


Sep 23, 2007, 3:43 PM
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Re: [tdsharkey] "Technical" Approach Shoe? [In reply to]
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I have a pair of 5.10 insights
http://www.backcountry.com/store/FVT0010/c5/s100000040/Five-Ten-Insight-Approach-Shoe-Mens.html?id=yzVbVp5S
They're great all around comfortable shoes, and I have bouldered up to V3 and climbed up to 5.9 trad in them (not on lead), but it's only because my footwork was been the focus of my climbing since i started.

I think some of these folks are correct in saying that it's better to get a $15 pair of actual climbing shoes that one could re-sell for $15 if one does not agree that climbing is for them then it would be to buy a $95-150 pair of approach shoes that are not meant for beginners.

In all honesty, my first pair of climbing shoes were Chuck Taylors. I could get up most 5.7s-5.8s n them, but they were not good for edging/face climbing.
Approach shoes, even with sticky rubber are going to be just as clumsy and difficult to climb for a beginner as any pair of sneakers, but they're more expensive and will wear out faster because the rubber is softer if the footwork is not highly developed.

I'm not saying it couldn't work, but I think you're buddy would be dissapointed with the durability for everyday wear that most sticky-rubber approach shoes have, and that the price would not be worth what you have in mind for the shoes.


(This post was edited by grampacharlie on Sep 23, 2007, 3:45 PM)


slablizard


Sep 26, 2007, 11:34 PM
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Re: [deltav] "Technical" Approach Shoe? [In reply to]
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I just bought the same shoes....I am amazed how well they climb, I did up to 11b in the gym, but I still haven't took them outdoor, they are 2 days old today...

I believe someone's suggestion of cheap snickers + cheap gym climbing shoes is the best one...


deltav wrote:
When I am guiding, I use the La Sportiva Cirque Pro. I can hike in them, do 3rd & 4th class plus climb 5.7 with a pack on. All around great shoe.

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