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robbovius
Sep 20, 2007, 11:29 AM
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mrksprague wrote: What a horrible introduction to east coast climbing. Quincy Quarries is disgusting. You would be far better off getting yourself to Rumney, bouldering at Lincoln or Lynn Woods or Pawtuckaway, or even just going to the gym at Metrorock IMO.
Snob.
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Gmburns2000
Sep 20, 2007, 1:25 PM
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Hey guys,
Late update (again - it takes time to write this crap up). I was at the 'Gunks this weekend and got up a variation of Easy V (through Quiver), Arrow (wow, what a finish!) and a variation of High E (wow, wow, wow) via Psychadelic (failure to read the guidebook first). We backed off the top of CCK on Sunday and I'm a bit pissed at that, but I was thinking of my fall two weeks ago in the 'Dacks. Gotta get over that.
I think I'll be at Cannon on Sat and Rumney Sun. I want to try to lead Hammond Organ at Jimmy Cliff, and I've been told there's a sweet 10 at Main I should try. I don't know the route, but I'm hoping my partner is the one who told me about it (yea, I forgot who told me, which climb it was, but I remember that it's there - go figure).
Anyone going to be at either location? I'm thinking of camping on the farm in Rumney.
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cracklover
Sep 20, 2007, 2:58 PM
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Yeah, I'll be at Rumney either Sat or Sun. Not sure which yet. Probably much of the day around Orange Crush.
GO
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jakedatc
Sep 20, 2007, 3:04 PM
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Under dog 10a at main or Armed and Dangerous 10b at main both very good while you
kate and i should be up there.. i dunno where we're going to climb tho. If i'm feeling good i think Luau and Technosurfing might be on the list
Gabe you should give Buried treasure a shot.. probably worth dealing with the hard bottom just for the fun crack at the top.. it's 100% bolted now
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Gmburns2000
Sep 20, 2007, 3:08 PM
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I think Underdog sounds like the route that was recommended, but I also recognize Armed and Dangerous, too. I'll give them both a go. Thanks.
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cracklover
Sep 20, 2007, 3:59 PM
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Buried Treasure. Got it. It's right near my objective for the day, so I'll give it a look.
Thanks for the suggestion, Jake!
GO
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jakedatc
Sep 20, 2007, 4:06 PM
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Orangahang time? perhaps we'll see you during the warm ups. you're only going one day?
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jakedatc
Sep 20, 2007, 7:52 PM
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AHh.. i watched some folks working Captain hook the day i was on Buried treasure..
Debbie does is awesome haha can even be done in the rain
noo i don't warm up on orangahang.. i meant seeing you on other walls before the projects begin.. i don't know what kate wants to do so i have no idea where i'll be
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mrksprague
Sep 21, 2007, 12:11 AM
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I was thinking of the good trad lines at Rumney and had the thought that a really good, challenge would be to do all the quality trad lines in a day,
My list would include:
Beginner's Route 5.5 and Holderness School Corner 5.8 at the Meadows,
Space Shuttle 9+ and maybe Shiskebob 11c at the Main Cliff
The 5.8 Crack (5.7) at 5.8 Crag
Black jack Crack 10d
Journey to a Mushroom Planet 13a - Monsters
That Crack 10a and Hawaii 5-0 at Waimea
Twit 10d-Triple Corners
Hole in the Wall 5.8 and Free range Chicken 5.7 - Hinterlands
Prudential Crack 5.8 and Wiggler Wants Some 12a - The Prudential
Very Nice Crack 10d -NW Territories
Pee Wee's Big adventure 5.4 - Crow's Nest
Pine Tree Crack 5.4 Jimmy Cliff
Smokestack 9+( sans bolts) - New Wave
18 Pitches. Anybody done this or think they are up to it?
(This post was edited by mrksprague on Sep 21, 2007, 12:21 AM)
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a.frosch
Sep 21, 2007, 12:29 AM
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Darth Vadar 5.9, another really good one. that makes 19. Red bulls, that is.
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jakedatc
Sep 21, 2007, 12:45 AM
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Mark if i was up there without kate sometime i'd lead the ones i could and follow the ones i can't. i've done 15 routes in a day but those were generally under 5.10 a few years back.. the 12 and 13 would give me some issues for sure
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losbill
Sep 21, 2007, 12:20 PM
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Charley(Bill)
Daughter getting married tomorrow. Been helping her rehab a house for the last 4 weeks. Haven't climbed a lick. Looking forward to planning climbing for the remaining of the Fall season on Sunday afternoon.
If it looks like I will be up in NH while you're there we can definitely hook up for a beer and maybe a climb.
Hope you have a spectacular trip. Josh's suggestions in another thread for routes were excellent. One additional one, which I'm not sure is possible, is to do the first 4 pitches of Weissner's Dike and then walk off right from the Lunch Ledge thus avoiding the pretty strenuous Archival Hump finishing 6th pitch. It would get you up on Cannon on nice rock in the 5.3 to 5.5 range with a not too strenuous approach.
Bill
"Life is an adventure or nothing at all!"
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losbill
Sep 21, 2007, 12:23 PM
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Matt,
Rumney? Cracks? Is Kym coming with you? If not Moby Grape and you can lead Reppy's!!!!!
Bill
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sixleggedinsect
Sep 22, 2007, 7:07 PM
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Does anyone know a climber working at a university in a Mech Eng or physics department? Lemme know if someone springs to mind,
thanks,
Anthony
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cracklover
Sep 23, 2007, 6:01 PM
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sixleggedinsect wrote: Does anyone know a climber working at a university in a Mech Eng or physics department? Lemme know if someone springs to mind, thanks, Anthony
Core's a Structural Engineer. I guess that's close?
GO
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jakedatc
Sep 24, 2007, 12:06 AM
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Nice catching a few routes with ya yesterday Gabe and Al.. congrats to Al for kickin' ass and taking names on Debbie Does.
yesterday was pretty rough.. we weren't climbing all that strong and our motivation waned because of it. still got on Cloe's, Percolator then Son of Sammy, Debbie Does and Bullwinkles crater with gabe and Allison We did have a damn tasty dinner at Calm Post and then got bombarded with the sound of fireworks echoing through the valley from somewhere near town
Today we warmed up at the meadows, gave Tim G beta on The Coveted and watched him flash it. then we went up to Starship.. I led Yer Anus (ha..ha :cricket:) Tim G warned me that it was heady and i was like "hmm a solid .12 climber tells me a bolted .9 is heady.. this should be interesting..) well.. it was a bit of a mind bender but i got through it. Then i took a shot at One Size Fits All .11b super pumpy roof to a well described grovel up this corner.. worked out all the moves with some hangs until the last bolt and then i got shut down by an arete with one small crimp in it covered in mica.. mica is not grippy.. 11b A0 :) went over to triple corners.. did a new .8 mark sprague put up a few months ago.. really fun flake pulling then did Man with a Hueco .. then chose to clean it on TR since the down clean sucks.. that was a pumpy/painful mistake but it did make the decision to go home easier.
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Sep 24, 2007, 12:09 AM)
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 24, 2007, 2:30 PM
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core wrote: October plans? Crack? I just bought my tickets to Yosemite International Airport today! mmmmmm... to add more pics to the thread...here's one from this weekend: [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/crbrett/2007-9-14%20Gunks/IMG_1386.jpg[/image]
Yosemite? ...Must go BACK...
I am sure that you will have cooler temps than the 100 degree days we endured in July. I still loved it, though.
Core, what route is that pic of. looks sweet.
Josh
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core
Sep 24, 2007, 2:50 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: core wrote: October plans? Crack? I just bought my tickets to Yosemite International Airport today! mmmmmm... to add more pics to the thread...here's one from this weekend: [image]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/crbrett/2007-9-14%20Gunks/IMG_1386.jpg[/image] Yosemite? ...Must go BACK... I am sure that you will have cooler temps than the 100 degree days we endured in July. I still loved it, though. Core, what route is that pic of. looks sweet. Josh
Cool temps indeed, I saw a TR on the Taco that ended with snow on Halfdome...
The route in that pic is Directissima, a fantastic route!
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cracklover
Sep 24, 2007, 3:28 PM
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Yep. And there's another thread predicting the first "winter" storm of the season. Which is not to say that you won't have gorgeous temps. It just means that you should keep an eye on the forecast the whole time you're there. Especially if you get on anything big. And bring at least a plastic bag you can put over yourself in case the weather turns to crap.
GO
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 24, 2007, 6:36 PM
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cracklover wrote: And bring at least a plastic bag you can put over yourself in case the weather turns to crap. GO
And another plastic bag in case you need to crap. 
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core
Sep 25, 2007, 2:14 AM
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I'll just wear the diapers that the psycho astronaut wore on her road trip...
I didn't realize this until now but my partner took this picture a couple weekends ago...
almost the same spot as Gabe's!
(This post was edited by core on Dec 18, 2008, 6:12 PM)
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jakedatc
Sep 25, 2007, 3:54 AM
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Cory.. Gabe's is of Bonnies .. you said yours was directissima.. would you like to change your statement? ;)
Has anyone done One Size Fits All 11b at Starship at rumney? Larry? Eric? I'd love some beta for the top after the last bolt...
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core
Sep 25, 2007, 12:02 PM
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jakedatc wrote: Cory.. Gabe's is of Bonnies .. you said yours was directissima.. would you like to change your statement? ;)
Silly bolt clipper...The first picture I posted IS of Directissima!
(This post was edited by core on Sep 25, 2007, 12:14 PM)
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cracklover
Sep 25, 2007, 12:20 PM
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Hey, happy 20,000 posts, everyone!
GO
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