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uhoh
Nov 16, 2008, 10:55 PM
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So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks?
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crazy_fingers84
Nov 16, 2008, 11:05 PM
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use spray paint instead of tape. . . it might last a while longer.
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steady_climbing
Nov 16, 2008, 11:06 PM
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Reading this was such a waste of time...... Good try :(
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uhoh
Nov 16, 2008, 11:21 PM
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steady_climbing wrote: Reading this was such a waste of time...... Good try :( Why is it a waste of time? Is there something else I should be doing to make this climb safer?
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the_leech
Nov 16, 2008, 11:41 PM
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Others may disagree, but I rather liked this:
uhoh wrote: After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. Someone will bite. I'm sure of it. Let's just wait and see...
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crazy_fingers84
Nov 16, 2008, 11:54 PM
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In reply to: Is there something else I should be doing to make this climb safer? You could chip some holds in the face next to the crack or just bolt on some new ones. Not everybody that wants to climb crack has crack climibing skillz.
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paclimber12
Nov 17, 2008, 12:18 AM
Post #7 of 70
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haha i actually laughed
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suilenroc
Nov 17, 2008, 12:26 AM
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uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF??????
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uhoh
Nov 17, 2008, 12:36 AM
Post #9 of 70
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suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements.
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suilenroc
Nov 17, 2008, 12:52 AM
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In reply to: Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. Sorry, i honestly think this is one of the most ridiculous things i have ever read on this site! ADD:
In reply to: safe as possible for newbie It sounds like you're a newbie! I'm not trying to start shit... Are you sure that YOU should be putting bolts in rock that people are potentially going to fall on? YOU SOUND SKETCHY!
(This post was edited by suilenroc on Nov 17, 2008, 1:02 AM)
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StringBeanBag
Nov 17, 2008, 1:03 AM
Post #11 of 70
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Mann... Seriously? The poor trees... Noone will climb that, sorry.. At least you have the enthusiasm! Prepare to be bashed... Expect bashing... bad. baad. bashing.
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kyleshea
Nov 17, 2008, 1:12 AM
Post #12 of 70
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Registered: Dec 21, 2006
Posts: 1716
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uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? have you installed the name plaque into the rock at the base yet?
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TKubik
Nov 17, 2008, 1:12 AM
Post #13 of 70
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Registered: Oct 22, 2008
Posts: 115
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I can't wait to send that biatch! EDIT: Not just send, REDPOINT that MF'er
(This post was edited by TKubik on Nov 17, 2008, 1:13 AM)
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lagwagonpcp
Nov 17, 2008, 1:29 AM
Post #15 of 70
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this is stupid
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kyleshea
Nov 17, 2008, 1:35 AM
Post #16 of 70
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uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. any types of marking for gear placements, you know, for the core climbers who will ignore the bolts?
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Lazlo
Nov 17, 2008, 1:50 AM
Post #17 of 70
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Thank you for the bolt spacing. I hate top stepping.
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the_leech
Nov 17, 2008, 3:18 AM
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uhoh wrote: As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. By the way, let me know if you need any help with that. I love setting new routes. And I hate trees.
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hopperhopper
Nov 17, 2008, 3:51 AM
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suilenroc wrote: In reply to: Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. Sorry, i honestly think this is one of the most ridiculous things i have ever read on this site! ADD: In reply to: safe as possible for newbie It sounds like you're a newbie! I'm not trying to start shit... Are you sure that YOU should be putting bolts in rock that people are potentially going to fall on? YOU SOUND SKETCHY! Hook, line, and sinker.
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shockabuku
Nov 17, 2008, 4:11 AM
Post #20 of 70
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kyleshea wrote: have you installed the name plaque into the rock at the base yet? Not just a name plaque but it should also have an engraved image of the route with beta!
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mach2
Nov 17, 2008, 4:14 AM
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The Edmondontella (sp??) guy was sooo much funnier than this. I give it a C+ for the effort.
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uhoh
Nov 17, 2008, 6:07 PM
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the_leech wrote: uhoh wrote: As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. By the way, let me know if you need any help with that. I love setting new routes. And I hate trees. I don't hate trees but they were certainly in the way of development. Are you a lumberjack?
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shrug7
Nov 17, 2008, 6:14 PM
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uhoh wrote: the_leech wrote: uhoh wrote: As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. By the way, let me know if you need any help with that. I love setting new routes. And I hate trees. I don't hate trees but they were certainly in the way of development. Are you a lumberjack? So where is this bolted crack that is shrubbery free...
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jollymon
Nov 17, 2008, 6:26 PM
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Dude if its in the way of development, it deserves the ax. I am interested in some other route "modifications" that might work out well for ya here... can you give us some more specs on the wall itself? Size, features, hey post a pic if ya can! We will be sure to give ya the best input to improve the rock structure that way. -Jolly
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djlachelt
Nov 17, 2008, 6:43 PM
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I think you should put the summit register at the bottom of the route... that way you can see who's previously climbed the route without having to do it yourself. Also if someone has to bail due to weather they can still sign the register. I mean they should still get credit for it if they got rained out, right?
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uhoh
Nov 17, 2008, 6:45 PM
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jollymon wrote: Dude if its in the way of development, it deserves the ax. I am interested in some other route "modifications" that might work out well for ya here... can you give us some more specs on the wall itself? Size, features, hey post a pic if ya can! We will be sure to give ya the best input to improve the rock structure that way. -Jolly I don't have a camera and do not have internet access outside of work (like a tool, I broke my computer and havent' fixed it yet). The climb is approximately 12 meters tall and the last half is slightly overhanging. From bottom to top, it traverses left about four or five meters. The rock is quartz. Edit: 12 meters tall, not 1. That'd be a rather short route.
(This post was edited by uhoh on Nov 17, 2008, 6:52 PM)
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Parkerkat
Nov 17, 2008, 6:49 PM
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I'll be sure to recite the litany against fear when I climbing your 100 bolt heaven! Time well spent! ; p
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limeydave
Nov 17, 2008, 6:50 PM
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I'm totally gonna pinkpoint that
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donald949
Nov 17, 2008, 6:59 PM
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uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? ROFLMAO Hey why not set it up as a Via Ferrata?
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uhoh
Nov 17, 2008, 7:04 PM
Post #31 of 70
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donald949 wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? ROFLMAO Hey why not set it up as a Via Ferrata? I can't afford a car right now, especially not a Ferrata!!
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jollymon
Nov 17, 2008, 7:37 PM
Post #32 of 70
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Good well you might consider "smoothing" down those pesky sharp quartz edges. Love those solid quartz walls, they look so freakin trippy! They really do cut something terrible! a dremel should do the trick. Also I would suggest you putting...hey why not bolting...a can or lockbox to the wall for donations. I mean you have spent weeks on this baby and its sounding super sweet.
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Valarc
Nov 17, 2008, 7:49 PM
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uhoh wrote: donald949 wrote: ROFLMAO Hey why not set it up as a Via Ferrata? I can't afford a car right now, especially not a Ferrata!! I considered this to be a piss-poor attempt at a troll up until this point, but that line cracked me up
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jeepnphreak
Nov 17, 2008, 7:55 PM
Post #34 of 70
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uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. WTF!!! its a 5.6!!! if a n00b cant find hand and foot holds he effing we tarded. there no need to lable the holds. that just stupid. Its out side!!! treat it like so and not the gym. I would say that the 4 bolt at the top is plenty safe, leave it at that. n00b dont need to have their hands held
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donald949
Nov 17, 2008, 8:01 PM
Post #35 of 70
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jeepnphreak wrote: uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. WTF!!! its a 5.6!!! if a n00b cant find hand and foot holds he effing we tarded. there no need to lable the holds. that just stupid. Its out side!!! treat it like so and not the gym. I would say that the 4 bolt at the top is plenty safe, leave it at that. n00b dont need to have their hands held Say theres a good idea UHOH. You could be a guide exclusively for your route. Hold their hands and point out the foot holds.
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Tree_wrangler
Nov 17, 2008, 9:54 PM
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In reply to: I don't hate trees but they were certainly in the way of development. Are you a lumberjack? Loggers love trees. Saying that loggers "hate trees" is just like saying that miners "hate gold", or that oil companies "hate oil".
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thatguyat99
Nov 17, 2008, 10:10 PM
Post #37 of 70
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You should just clear out enough space for a road and a parking lot. Sounds like this route is going to get a lot of traffic. Might as well make it as accessible as possible. Hell, you could put in some bleachers so spectators can watch that route get sent all day long. Of course , that leads to concession stands, beer, and inevitably port-a- jons. Maybe hire some cheerleaders or "dancers" to keep things lively while switching up belays. Oh, and definitely charge admission. And I want half of all profits.
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bigredscowboy
Nov 23, 2008, 2:01 AM
Post #38 of 70
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Any climbers and/or spectators should be wary of the large troll that I've seen in those woods. He's pretty pissed of that his favorite stump got removed in the name of "Progress." I think that you should take one of the hangers off of a bolt just to scare the real noobs. And toss a couple of fixed pins in. Or, how about a webbing cluster at the anchor?
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uhoh
Nov 23, 2008, 2:51 AM
Post #39 of 70
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donald949 wrote: jeepnphreak wrote: uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. WTF!!! its a 5.6!!! if a n00b cant find hand and foot holds he effing we tarded. there no need to lable the holds. that just stupid. Its out side!!! treat it like so and not the gym. I would say that the 4 bolt at the top is plenty safe, leave it at that. n00b dont need to have their hands held Say theres a good idea UHOH. You could be a guide exclusively for your route. Hold their hands and point out the foot holds. I'd like to guide people but I have a job so I don't have the time, sadly.
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yokese
Nov 23, 2008, 3:57 AM
Post #40 of 70
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Nice catch so far. Congrats.
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meahtots
Nov 23, 2008, 4:37 AM
Post #41 of 70
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you know what? fuck it. I'll guide the route.
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Goo
Nov 23, 2008, 6:38 AM
Post #42 of 70
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uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. I am confused... so you are trying to make an outdoor gym? is that what I'm hearing?
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the_leech
Nov 23, 2008, 6:59 AM
Post #43 of 70
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Goo wrote: uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. I am confused... so you are trying to make an outdoor gym? is that what I'm hearing? No, you heard wrong. He's just trying to stock his aquarium.
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wonderwoman
Nov 23, 2008, 4:50 PM
Post #44 of 70
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limeydave wrote: I'm totally gonna pinkpoint that I just sent it, and left a whole ton of tick marks for ya. It's pretty sweet!
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a-e-jones
Nov 23, 2008, 5:08 PM
Post #45 of 70
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you should use two different colours for the spray paint, one for the feet one for the hands totally chip the wall too i dont want to climb crack all day
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donald949
Nov 25, 2008, 8:20 AM
Post #46 of 70
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wonderwoman wrote: limeydave wrote: I'm totally gonna pinkpoint that I just sent it, and left a whole ton of tick marks for ya. It's pretty sweet! Well its too bad UHOH wasn't up for guiding it, as we could have avoided a lot of environmental damage and blight with all those tick marks. But I think we need to move past all that. I voluteer to go out there and remove the tick marks. Does anyone want to join me. I'll be bringing a power sander and wire brush and a generator. Some tunes and a small fridge, with some cold ones for those who pitch in. Thanks in advance for your support. Don
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scottek67
Nov 26, 2008, 5:42 AM
Post #47 of 70
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Parkerkat wrote: I'll be sure to recite the litany against fear when I climbing your 100 bolt heaven! Time well spent! ; p I never heard of a name for this route... howabout "100 bolt heaven" and Parkerkat deserves a thankyou in your guide-book!
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suilenroc
Nov 26, 2008, 6:52 AM
Post #48 of 70
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Instead of "100 Bolt Heaven", how about "uhoh Is a Fisherman"... Damn he is lame...
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Nov 26, 2008, 1:01 PM
Post #49 of 70
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suilenroc wrote: Instead of "100 Bolt Heaven", how about "uhoh Is a Fisherman"... Damn he is lame... Hmmmm. .. Naming this route will be tough. Only the collective genius that is RC.com could possibly solve this. How about "Bad Chum"?
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a-e-jones
Nov 26, 2008, 1:26 PM
Post #50 of 70
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you should name it "This ones for you Kane_Schutzman"
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Parkerkat
Nov 26, 2008, 2:22 PM
Post #51 of 70
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haha!..I'll take that! : ) Thanks for the cred!
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randyb
Nov 26, 2008, 2:34 PM
Post #52 of 70
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 49
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I just read this whole thread... Made my morning. I agree the line about I can't afford a new car really set it off for me. Climbers is the craziest people.
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rhythm164
Nov 26, 2008, 3:15 PM
Post #53 of 70
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uhoh wrote: bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. WTF? you couldn't think of a less invasive method than bleach? I know people do this to clean their routes, but that doesn't make it right. It might take a little more time to scrub it, but at least you could know you did it responsibly.
uhoh wrote: As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. HELL YEA! TREES SUCK! You had (or stumbled into)the right idea by creating a herd path, but it probably would have been better to go AROUND the local flora instead to removing it. Try napalm next time, it's much quicker, by te way, when does the Starbucks go in? uhoh wrote: After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. ummmmmmmmmm......
uhoh wrote: I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather I ..... you...waa? Here's a suggestion, never attempt this again right after coming off a crystal meth binge.
(This post was edited by rhythm164 on Nov 26, 2008, 3:21 PM)
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sbaclimber
Nov 26, 2008, 3:24 PM
Post #54 of 70
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rhythm164 wrote: uhoh wrote: bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. WTF? you couldn't think of a less invasive method than bleach? I know people do this to clean their routes, but that doesn't make it right. It might take a little more time to scrub it, but at least you could know you did it responsibly. uhoh wrote: As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. HELL YEA! TREES SUCK! You had (or stumbled into)the right idea by creating a herd path, but it probably would have been better to go AROUND the local flora instead to removing it. Try napalm next time, it's much quicker, by te way, when does the Starbucks go in? uhoh wrote: After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. ummmmmmmmmm...... uhoh wrote: I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather I ..... you...waa? Here's a suggestion, never attempt this again right after coming off a crystal meth binge. Has anyone ever said to you, "over your head and under your knees"? If not.....I just did ...another one for uhoh's fishtank!
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Nov 26, 2008, 3:27 PM)
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Nov 26, 2008, 9:06 PM
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rhythm164 wrote: ...by te way, when does the Starbucks go in? Now there is a concept. Does this mean you would name this sweet route “Double Grande Mocha Out of Business”?
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Johnny_Fang
Nov 26, 2008, 9:22 PM
Post #56 of 70
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I'm not absolutely sure about this, but I think this guy is just pulling our leg. He's clearly set routes before.
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rhythm164
Nov 26, 2008, 9:41 PM
Post #57 of 70
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: rhythm164 wrote: ...by te way, when does the Starbucks go in? Now there is a concept. Does this mean you would name this sweet route “Double Grande Mocha Out of Business”? or Clips a Latte'?
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donald949
Nov 27, 2008, 4:26 AM
Post #58 of 70
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Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: suilenroc wrote: Instead of "100 Bolt Heaven", how about "uhoh Is a Fisherman"... Damn he is lame... Hmmmm. .. Naming this route will be tough. Only the collective genius that is RC.com could possibly solve this. How about "Bad Chum"? Yes naming is important. But first, no Uhoh is not pulling our leg and this thread is serious not lame. I understand each and everyone of the points raised in Uhoh's OP. So with that out of the way, a couple thoughts on naming. Nutty Bolter, Bolts are Nuts, or Going Nuts With The Bolts, are a couple of obvious choices. A less obvious choice which is a play on a route name in Smith Rock, and a RC User's name, Trolling in da Wake. A final thought since everyone seamed like the earlier line. No Farrata Which gets my vote. Maybe Uhoh should choose a couple of his favorites and start a poll. Don
(This post was edited by donald949 on Nov 27, 2008, 4:27 AM)
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scottek67
Nov 27, 2008, 5:56 AM
Post #59 of 70
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Johnny_Fang wrote: I'm not absolutely sure about this, but I think this guy is just pulling our leg. He's clearly set routes before. I'm not sure if this supposed to be serious either but I just keep coming back to this thread for the responses... some of you guys are hilarious! I laughed so hard I had milk coming outa my nose... and I don't even drink the stuff! maybe I should go to a doctor. thanks for the laughs everyone! if this is for real... I need directions!! I gotta see this!
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randyb
Nov 29, 2008, 1:39 AM
Post #60 of 70
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Can you give us a link to that thread? I laughed hard at this one... would love to read another
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jt512
Nov 29, 2008, 4:05 AM
Post #61 of 70
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the_leech wrote: Others may disagree, but I rather liked this: uhoh wrote: After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. Someone will bite. I'm sure of it. I was going to say that you must be crazy. Then I read the rest of the thread. Jay
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jt512
Nov 29, 2008, 4:09 AM
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Tree_wrangler wrote: In reply to: I don't hate trees but they were certainly in the way of development. Are you a lumberjack? Loggers love trees. Saying that loggers "hate trees" is just like saying that miners "hate gold", or that oil companies "hate oil". Or that vegetarians hate vegetables? Jay
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deltav
Nov 29, 2008, 4:57 AM
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I feel dumber just from reading this...
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j_ung
Nov 29, 2008, 5:33 PM
Post #64 of 70
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Sonofamotherfuckingbitch!!!!!one! Who the hell stole my project draws off uh-oh's classic?!
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j_ung
Nov 29, 2008, 5:34 PM
Post #65 of 70
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One of you assholes owes me 100 draws.
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Adk
Dec 10, 2008, 1:45 PM
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After reading all of this I feel like a shark just bit off all my appendages leaving me nothing more than my 2" talleywacker. OP: you got some great ideas here but think a bit more about the environment here and don't you know by now that paint is never a good thing? I'll admit: I like to zipper things up and create problems for the second but those bolts are way too close dude! A fishbowl it might be!!!
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donald949
Dec 12, 2008, 5:19 AM
Post #69 of 70
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Registered: May 24, 2007
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Did this route ever get a Name? We can't leave this one unnamed. No child left behind Uhoh. Name it.
(This post was edited by donald949 on Dec 12, 2008, 6:21 AM)
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caleb_danner
Dec 12, 2008, 5:35 AM
Post #70 of 70
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jeepnphreak wrote: uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. WTF!!! its a 5.6!!! if a n00b cant find hand and foot holds he effing we tarded. there no need to lable the holds. that just stupid. Its out side!!! treat it like so and not the gym. I would say that the 4 bolt at the top is plenty safe, leave it at that. n00b dont need to have their hands held this is outside right? Out side should be left mark free and bolt free if it is a crack! let it be a mixed route
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