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djlachelt
Nov 17, 2008, 6:43 PM
Post #26 of 70
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I think you should put the summit register at the bottom of the route... that way you can see who's previously climbed the route without having to do it yourself. Also if someone has to bail due to weather they can still sign the register. I mean they should still get credit for it if they got rained out, right?
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uhoh
Nov 17, 2008, 6:45 PM
Post #27 of 70
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Registered: Mar 11, 2007
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jollymon wrote: Dude if its in the way of development, it deserves the ax. I am interested in some other route "modifications" that might work out well for ya here... can you give us some more specs on the wall itself? Size, features, hey post a pic if ya can! We will be sure to give ya the best input to improve the rock structure that way. -Jolly
I don't have a camera and do not have internet access outside of work (like a tool, I broke my computer and havent' fixed it yet). The climb is approximately 12 meters tall and the last half is slightly overhanging. From bottom to top, it traverses left about four or five meters. The rock is quartz.
Edit: 12 meters tall, not 1. That'd be a rather short route.
(This post was edited by uhoh on Nov 17, 2008, 6:52 PM)
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Parkerkat
Nov 17, 2008, 6:49 PM
Post #28 of 70
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Registered: Nov 6, 2008
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I'll be sure to recite the litany against fear when I climbing your 100 bolt heaven!
Time well spent! ; p
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limeydave
Nov 17, 2008, 6:50 PM
Post #29 of 70
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Registered: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 2453
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I'm totally gonna pinkpoint that
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donald949
Nov 17, 2008, 6:59 PM
Post #30 of 70
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
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uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks?
ROFLMAO
Hey why not set it up as a Via Ferrata?
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uhoh
Nov 17, 2008, 7:04 PM
Post #31 of 70
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Registered: Mar 11, 2007
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donald949 wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? ROFLMAO Hey why not set it up as a Via Ferrata?
I can't afford a car right now, especially not a Ferrata!!
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jollymon
Nov 17, 2008, 7:37 PM
Post #32 of 70
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Registered: Jun 5, 2008
Posts: 55
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Good well you might consider "smoothing" down those pesky sharp quartz edges. Love those solid quartz walls, they look so freakin trippy! They really do cut something terrible! a dremel should do the trick. Also I would suggest you putting...hey why not bolting...a can or lockbox to the wall for donations. I mean you have spent weeks on this baby and its sounding super sweet.
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Valarc
Nov 17, 2008, 7:49 PM
Post #33 of 70
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Registered: Apr 20, 2007
Posts: 1473
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uhoh wrote: donald949 wrote: ROFLMAO Hey why not set it up as a Via Ferrata? I can't afford a car right now, especially not a Ferrata!!
I considered this to be a piss-poor attempt at a troll up until this point, but that line cracked me up
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jeepnphreak
Nov 17, 2008, 7:55 PM
Post #34 of 70
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Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
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uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements.
WTF!!! its a 5.6!!! if a n00b cant find hand and foot holds he effing we tarded.
there no need to lable the holds. that just stupid. Its out side!!! treat it like so and not the gym.
I would say that the 4 bolt at the top is plenty safe, leave it at that. n00b dont need to have their hands held
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donald949
Nov 17, 2008, 8:01 PM
Post #35 of 70
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
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jeepnphreak wrote: uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. WTF!!! its a 5.6!!! if a n00b cant find hand and foot holds he effing we tarded. there no need to lable the holds. that just stupid. Its out side!!! treat it like so and not the gym. I would say that the 4 bolt at the top is plenty safe, leave it at that. n00b dont need to have their hands held
Say theres a good idea UHOH. You could be a guide exclusively for your route. Hold their hands and point out the foot holds.
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Tree_wrangler
Nov 17, 2008, 9:54 PM
Post #36 of 70
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Registered: Feb 8, 2007
Posts: 403
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In reply to: I don't hate trees but they were certainly in the way of development. Are you a lumberjack?
Loggers love trees.
Saying that loggers "hate trees" is just like saying that miners "hate gold", or that oil companies "hate oil".
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thatguyat99
Nov 17, 2008, 10:10 PM
Post #37 of 70
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Registered: Aug 24, 2008
Posts: 121
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You should just clear out enough space for a road and a parking lot. Sounds like this route is going to get a lot of traffic. Might as well make it as accessible as possible.
Hell, you could put in some bleachers so spectators can watch that route get sent all day long. Of course , that leads to concession stands, beer, and inevitably port-a- jons. Maybe hire some cheerleaders or "dancers" to keep things lively while switching up belays.
Oh, and definitely charge admission.
And I want half of all profits.
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bigredscowboy
Nov 23, 2008, 2:01 AM
Post #38 of 70
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Registered: Jul 30, 2007
Posts: 138
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Any climbers and/or spectators should be wary of the large troll that I've seen in those woods. He's pretty pissed of that his favorite stump got removed in the name of "Progress." I think that you should take one of the hangers off of a bolt just to scare the real noobs. And toss a couple of fixed pins in. Or, how about a webbing cluster at the anchor?
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uhoh
Nov 23, 2008, 2:51 AM
Post #39 of 70
(3659 views)
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Registered: Mar 11, 2007
Posts: 2281
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donald949 wrote: jeepnphreak wrote: uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. WTF!!! its a 5.6!!! if a n00b cant find hand and foot holds he effing we tarded. there no need to lable the holds. that just stupid. Its out side!!! treat it like so and not the gym. I would say that the 4 bolt at the top is plenty safe, leave it at that. n00b dont need to have their hands held Say theres a good idea UHOH. You could be a guide exclusively for your route. Hold their hands and point out the foot holds.
I'd like to guide people but I have a job so I don't have the time, sadly.
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yokese
Nov 23, 2008, 3:57 AM
Post #40 of 70
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Registered: Jan 18, 2006
Posts: 672
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Nice catch so far. Congrats.
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meahtots
Nov 23, 2008, 4:37 AM
Post #41 of 70
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Registered: Jun 16, 2008
Posts: 105
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you know what?
fuck it.
I'll guide the route.
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Goo
Nov 23, 2008, 6:38 AM
Post #42 of 70
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Registered: Oct 6, 2008
Posts: 68
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uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements.
I am confused... so you are trying to make an outdoor gym? is that what I'm hearing?
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the_leech
Nov 23, 2008, 6:59 AM
Post #43 of 70
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Registered: Feb 8, 2007
Posts: 392
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Goo wrote: uhoh wrote: suilenroc wrote: uhoh wrote: So, I'm about to complete the setting of my first route. I spent hours and hours cleaning debris, removing sand and other particles, cleaning out the choss, and bleaching all the lichen/mold/moss off the face of the rock. I've had more experienced climbers give input as to what to look for in terms of making the route more accessible and most suggestions focused on clearing a path to the route rather than on the route itself. As such, I spent about three weeks cutting down trees, pulling stumps, and setting a path. The suggestions pertaining to the route itself mostly focused on bolting. This was a pain as I've never had to bolt anything before. I created a belay station at the top using four bolts and hangers so that a person could more easily back up their anchors/top rope. After that, I had placed bolts every three feet along the crack. It seemed like a lot of bolts but I figure people will only use them if they want to. It's probably only a 5.6 but I wanted newbies to feel safe, like they're in a gym. After all the setting, clearing, cleaning, bolting, and so on, I've decided to name it Crackbolt. It's not an original name but I figured it's not that great of a climb anyway. I do have one last question though for the community. I want to tape the route but I'm worried the tape will come off during the winter weather - snow, ice, etc., etc. Is there any way to make sure it sticks? I am seriously confused about your thread... 1. Bolts on a crack that is 5.6 2. 4 bolts at the top 3. it's not that great of a climb anyway 4. you want to tape the route Is this a joke????? WTF?????? Nope, no joke. I just want the climb to be as safe as possible for newbies. The tape, or spray paint if I follow through on that, will be used to mark proper hand and foot placements. I am confused... so you are trying to make an outdoor gym? is that what I'm hearing?
No, you heard wrong.
He's just trying to stock his aquarium.
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wonderwoman
Nov 23, 2008, 4:50 PM
Post #44 of 70
(3615 views)
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
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limeydave wrote: I'm totally gonna pinkpoint that
I just sent it, and left a whole ton of tick marks for ya. It's pretty sweet!
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a-e-jones
Nov 23, 2008, 5:08 PM
Post #45 of 70
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Registered: Jul 5, 2008
Posts: 295
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you should use two different colours for the spray paint, one for the feet one for the hands
totally chip the wall too i dont want to climb crack all day
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donald949
Nov 25, 2008, 8:20 AM
Post #46 of 70
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
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wonderwoman wrote: limeydave wrote: I'm totally gonna pinkpoint that I just sent it, and left a whole ton of tick marks for ya. It's pretty sweet!
Well its too bad UHOH wasn't up for guiding it, as we could have avoided a lot of environmental damage and blight with all those tick marks. But I think we need to move past all that. I voluteer to go out there and remove the tick marks. Does anyone want to join me. I'll be bringing a power sander and wire brush and a generator. Some tunes and a small fridge, with some cold ones for those who pitch in. Thanks in advance for your support.
Don
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scottek67
Nov 26, 2008, 5:42 AM
Post #47 of 70
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Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 515
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Parkerkat wrote: I'll be sure to recite the litany against fear when I climbing your 100 bolt heaven! Time well spent! ; p
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suilenroc
Nov 26, 2008, 6:52 AM
Post #48 of 70
(3495 views)
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Registered: Nov 13, 2006
Posts: 581
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Instead of "100 Bolt Heaven", how about "uhoh Is a Fisherman"... Damn he is lame...
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Nov 26, 2008, 1:01 PM
Post #49 of 70
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Registered: Sep 12, 2008
Posts: 5208
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suilenroc wrote: Instead of "100 Bolt Heaven", how about "uhoh Is a Fisherman"... Damn he is lame...
Hmmmm. .. Naming this route will be tough. Only the collective genius that is RC.com could possibly solve this.
How about "Bad Chum"?
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a-e-jones
Nov 26, 2008, 1:26 PM
Post #50 of 70
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Registered: Jul 5, 2008
Posts: 295
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you should name it "This ones for you Kane_Schutzman"
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