|
beyond_gravity
Nov 15, 2002, 12:24 AM
Post #1 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2002
Posts: 5078
|
Register a user name, then re-post this in the ladies room
You'll get a lot more input there.
|
|
|
|
|
cman
Nov 15, 2002, 12:48 AM
Post #2 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 43
|
My wife leads and onsights in the low tens.
Very hot and sexy.
And we have a friend who has redpointed 12a. Not a soft one, very burly and overhanging.
[ This Message was edited by: cman on 2002-11-14 16:52 ]
|
|
|
|
|
wv5ten
Nov 15, 2002, 1:06 AM
Post #3 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2002
Posts: 671
|
I know quite a few ladies who lead, mostly sport. They climb in high 10s or 11s for the most part. Have fun with it and good luck
|
|
|
|
|
redpoint73
Nov 15, 2002, 1:07 AM
Post #4 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1717
|
Women rock! I certainly see numerous females at my local climbing haunts, both trad and sport climbers. While women are certainly in the minority, there are many female climbers at my favorite spot that can kick my ass all over the place (5.12 and beyond). Don't sweat it if you haven't seen many women climbers at your local crag. They're probably around, you just haven't been at the right spots.
Here are my personal observations. These are CERTAINLY generalizations and stereoypes, but I think thats what the original post was about. So females, please don't be offended!
Female climbers are sometimes less confident about leading, and about leading at/past their limit. Unreasonable fears of falling, and unwillingness to feel physical strain/pain are common. Be confident, and don't give up on a move. If you are mentally storng, you have won half the battle!
Women often have less upper body strength, but can make up for it with technique and balance. Don't climb like a boy, capitalize on your strengths, while working on your weaknesses.
If you feel a need for some female comradarie, many climbing areas have women's climbing weekends, or clinics designed for women. Climbing with other women can boost your confidence, so you might give it a try.
Now just get out there and kick some butt! Don't let the men have all the fun! Start schooling some boys!
|
|
|
|
|
maiorlive
Nov 15, 2002, 3:46 PM
Post #5 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 172
|
I climbed with two women this summer both of whom climb harder than their boyfriends. (I even made the mistake of saying so in front of one of their boyfriends ) Both ladies climb better than I do, but neither has the head for leading that I do. The result is that I lead slightly harder routes while they top rope significantly harder than I do.
I don't think it's a gender thing. Some people like their rope sharp and other people don't. If there are more guys on the sharp end than girls, it probably has more to do with guys (and girls) expecting things to be that way.
People who say you should lead so you can avoid being called "belay bitch" are not expressing themselves clearly. What they mean is "Damn, I really enjoyed that lead. The sharp end adds soooooo much to the experience. You should do it too so you don't miss out!"
What you need to decide is what you enjoy about climbing: the gymnastics or the adventure. If it's all about the former, you're probably going to top rope most stuff. If it's all about the later you're probably headed for the sharp end.
Actually, if it's all about adventure, you're probably not going to be satisfied with leading and we'll see you soloing the Nose at some point.
W
edit: 4clarity
[ This Message was edited by: maiorlive on 2002-11-15 07:47 ]
|
|
|
|
|
russmanswife
Nov 15, 2002, 4:10 PM
Post #6 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 5, 2001
Posts: 344
|
coming from the women's side it was my idea for me start leading i brought it up to my hubby after our first time outside actually and said i wanted too do it (we had been mostly climbing in gyms before that). no one pushed me i started on two really easy 5.6 and had no problems.
i would much rather lead actually then toprope all the time i have more fun doing it, but at the same time i know my limits and no when to back off. if you haven't done it yet just find an easy one or one that you know you can do and give it a shot.
|
|
|
|
|
boardcrazzy
Nov 15, 2002, 4:11 PM
Post #7 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 183
|
I spent one summer as a chicken. Seems my head wasn't screwed on right or something, but I made my female climbing partner lead everything for me. I feel much better now.
|
|
|
|
|
froggy
Nov 15, 2002, 5:01 PM
Post #8 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2001
Posts: 244
|
Hi
From a womans perspective as well.
I started leading last year after about 6 months of climbing. Like you said, I did not like my boyfriend 'taking me up everything.' First off it gave him a even bigger power trip than he already had and (believe me he did not need any more ego).
But, anyway - lead when ready (when YOU are ready). I redpointed a 5.10a/b as my third lead outside. If you have the mind you can do anything!
Like anything climbing comes and go's - you have good days and bad days, but don't hold back because you are a woman, f that, go KICK SOME ASS , K?
|
|
|
|
|
drivinnclimbin
Nov 15, 2002, 5:17 PM
Post #9 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 30, 2002
Posts: 31
|
My lady leads solid 5.9. We both like the fact that she can lead climbs and not just wait for me. I was stoked when she did her first lead. Keep on.
|
|
|
|
|
ecocliffchick
Nov 15, 2002, 6:06 PM
Post #10 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2002
Posts: 613
|
When I started climbing outside, I was put on the sharp end right away. Unfortunately after a couple of nasty falls, I totally lost my "lead-mindset" and since I was living in an area without rock I ended up mainly top roping in the gym. A couple years later I started road tripping and was so used to top-roping, switching to lead climbing was very intimidating. Sometimes I'm up for the mental challenge and I really want to lead, other times I just want to focus on something really hard and feel much safer following my boyfriend. Sometimes I get so freaked out on the sharp end I don't know how I could possibly lead another route! I've lead easy and hard climbs and top roped easy and hard climbs. For me it's all climbing, so it's all fun. If someone wants to refer to me as a belay bitch for seconding all day, I'd prefer the title of "toprope princess".
|
|
|
|
|
squishclimber
Nov 15, 2002, 6:45 PM
Post #11 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 5, 2002
Posts: 110
|
I have climbed with plenty of women who both sport and trad lead. Definitely don't be discouraged by not seeing many female lead climbers! Just get out there and climb and when you are ready start leading.
|
|
|
|
|
mreardon
Nov 15, 2002, 7:16 PM
Post #12 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
|
Depending on where you go, you'll find plenty of women who can lead various grades. Here in So. Cal., the sport crags have plenty of women who climb in the 12s, and I've climbed with a couple women at Josh and Suicide who trad 11+. Bouldering at the local haunts tend to have the greatest concentration of harder women climbers though, particularly at Stoney Point in LA or the Happy's in Bishop.
There are still more men than women on the harder climbs, but I have a feeling that will continue to change as more women find others like themselves that want to push their limits, rather than just sit idly by because they don't want to show their partner up.
|
|
|
|
|
climbinhiky
Nov 15, 2002, 7:29 PM
Post #13 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 21, 2002
Posts: 7
|
My husband won't climb (he has some deranged fear of heights... rough childhood or something) so I have to lead every climb if I want to climb it.
Now that I climb with more people it's been great to see how having to lead has made me a better climber and made me realize that leading is the only way to climb.
|
|
|
|
|
dannymccracken
Nov 15, 2002, 7:44 PM
Post #14 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2002
Posts: 469
|
Yes, learn to lead climb. Gender shouldn't make a difference. My partner and I hired a guide when we climbed in Colorado & Utah for a week (we weren't familiar with the sandstone). The guide was a woman. It didn't make any difference to us. The important thing was the guide's skils, not their gender.
|
|
|
|
|
ktwo
Nov 18, 2002, 5:20 PM
Post #15 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 10, 2002
Posts: 443
|
When I was at the lander climbers festival last summer, a friend and i were working on this 11c at wild iris. There was a girl on an 11 next to us, and we were pretty impressed when she on-sighted it. But then, she came down and was like "wow, that was a good warm up, lets go work on that 13a." At first, we thought that she was joking like many of us do, but then we were walking by, and she was seriously working on this 13. I have no idea who she was, but I am sure that she must have some notariety!
|
|
|
|
|
sunsation
Nov 18, 2002, 5:56 PM
Post #16 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 16, 2002
Posts: 184
|
Wow! I had no idea there was even a QUESTION of women lead climbing. It's never occured to me not to. You mean there's actually women out there who don't go climbing unless a guy can put the route up for them? C'mon you're pullin' my leg...
As for the term 'belay bitch', I have never heard it before and let me tell you if I ever do... hell hath no fury...
|
|
|
|
|
mreardon
Nov 18, 2002, 6:16 PM
Post #17 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
|
Completely off topic, but "belay bitch" has nothing to do with gender, and more to do with having a partner who doesn't lead and therefore becomes the bb for the day.
|
|
|
|
|
sunsation
Nov 18, 2002, 6:34 PM
Post #18 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 16, 2002
Posts: 184
|
Fair enough...
|
|
|
|
|
bigo
Nov 19, 2002, 7:10 PM
Post #19 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 11, 2002
Posts: 237
|
My girlfriend and I statred climbing at the same time. We also climb at about the same frequency. She redpoints the same grade as I (low 12's) and is a slightly better onsight climber. From what I've seen gender makes no difference, at least physically, in how well one climbs. We each have our own styles and strong points, but that is the case for every climber. I'd say don't get caught up in being a female climber; your a climber.
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
Dec 17, 2002, 1:31 AM
Post #20 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
[small]This topic was moved to the The Ladies Room forum by crazylikeafawkes[/small]
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Dec 17, 2002, 3:07 AM
Post #21 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
I started trying to lead last summer, unfortunally school was insane leaving me with very little time for climbing and biking. I think I did more bouldering than routes dues to time restrictions.
Right now I climb 5.9/5.10 depending on the day, and have lead only up to 5.6. I'm still trying to get my head quai-level when doing trad, and I figure that the more I practice on easier climbs, the more confident and proficient I'll be at placing gear.
I'm from Nova Scotia and hope to be in Halifax next summer. I wish that I could do more sport routes, but they just arn't in abundance in NS.
|
|
|
|
|
enigma
Dec 17, 2002, 3:25 AM
Post #22 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
|
I just started leading this summer as well. I have been climbing a little over a year.
I think its difficult going from following to leading,and the partner needs to be supportive.
Sometimes my partners are very proficient leaders and feel having me lead is more time consuming. Therefore they will often try to persuade me for them to lead most or all of the climbs.
I do enjoy leading and feel much more a sense of accomplishment, then with just following. As long as the lead is within my limit,or a little above I would hope to do it more often. Obviously the confidence and the mind set factors into these decisions.
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
Dec 17, 2002, 3:25 AM
Post #23 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
i am learning to lead and plan on outclimbing my (male) partner (someday)...
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
Dec 17, 2002, 1:40 PM
Post #24 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
sigh. i'll admit it. i can't lead.
i will say this:
Hello, my name is Jessica and leading scares my technique and ability out of me.
i'm working through it, but i just do so much better on TR.... i forget even what i'm doing when i'm on lead. i'm hoping this is a phase....
|
|
|
|
|
rockwomyn
Dec 17, 2002, 2:53 PM
Post #25 of 31
(4385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2001
Posts: 373
|
I just started leading this past year and well....i must say i am way more comfortable leading trad than sport. although i don't climb really hard grades on lead yet....about 5.7 or so....i lead climb below my ability to try to help build my confidence in my technique and to help keep my head in the right spot. there was a couple times that i wanted to bail because my mind started to wander and undermine me. Believe me i get hard pressed to try tougher grades but i really just want to take it slow....make it a process, so i don't take a bad whipper and never be able to lead again. leading is great and i really do enjoy the rush and excitement of completeing the climb.
Oh if was only warm enough to climb around here.....
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
