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mreardon
Dec 17, 2002, 6:08 PM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 1337
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Crazyfawkes - you aren't the only one. But at least you're admitting it which is always the first step to recovery
Actually, that's the point of leading. Keeping your head together and recognizing that many times a lead fall with a good belay is just as safe as a toprope fall. Just a little farther If you get that into your head, you'll be amazed at how quickly you will improve.
Find a route that you have completely dialed on TR. Then take a shot at it. Even better, because you will likely not fall for the first few leads, purposely do so! Step up to where the gear is at your knees then jump off. Then go until the same gear is at your feet, and jump off. Doing this a couple times will definitely improve your ability and clear your head. I still do this on my warm up climbs almost every time I'm out just to remind myself that I'm safe.
I watched Tiff Campbell climbing for a while and noticed that she never falls. Says "take" quite a bit. But never falls. After we talked about it a bit, she told me that she was too scared to fall and really didn't know how to. As the year progressed, I watched her purposely take falls, and sure enough, it was her hardest year of sends (she was the only woman to send "Frogtown" 13d). So no matter what level you climb, leading is a mental game that everyone has issues with.
So go jump.... c'mon, I dare you... I double dare you.... You're not going to let a boy beat you are you???
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missedyno
Dec 17, 2002, 8:34 PM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
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yeah i used to lead.... i think i just haven't been able to climb often enough to keep myself at any level. i'm taking off for a month to climb, i should be okay when i get back
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indigo_nite
Dec 17, 2002, 11:28 PM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: Mar 3, 2002
Posts: 365
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I'm leading trad 5.7 (not consistently) and sport 5.9. I think I can do more but am nervous about falling on my gear still. Though I haven't consciously led at my climbing edge, I recently got off route and did a little sketchy (runout for me) climbing. I learned I don't have the head for first ascenting now but I can place some gear instinctively and fast.
Though I climb conservatively, the only "hard" climb I'm currently inspired to reach towards is Sidewinder at Jtree.
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enigma
Dec 18, 2002, 3:29 AM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 2279
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OMG ,I can't imagine leading Sidewinder,a friend of mine lead that climb after 15years of climbing.Pretty lofty goal!Good Luck!!!
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figure08
Dec 21, 2002, 6:23 AM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 9
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Leading rocks! I like it a lot better than top rope. I just started leading - my first lead was a 5.8, and the next time we went out there was no question, I was leading. I don't know the rating of that one, but it was cool. It makes me wish I would've started leading earlier, but then again, I don't know if I was ready earlier. I would defenatly recomend it though.
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aimeerose
Jan 23, 2003, 4:41 PM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 574
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I LOVE leading! I love onsighting. I'm usually the one who hangs the draws when my husband and I go climbing. Sometimes he'll hang them for me on a project, but if it's our first time on a route, I put the draws up. I also love leading on trad. I just did Crimson Chrsalyis last weekend and led the crux pitches. It was a blast!
I think if you like leading, then you should do it. Who cares if you're the only woman doing it? I often am at my local crag, especailly climbing at the 12 level. Many of my female climbing friends don't lead, so I'm happy I can take them out and set climbs up for them. I think you should do whatever makes you happy. That's the best part about climbing is that we make up our own rules. Good luck and stay with it if you like it!
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