|
jeffwalker
May 10, 2009, 5:39 PM
Post #76 of 83
(1363 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 16
|
just read through this thread. my 2 cents is that the biggest gains in climbing are made by climbing. the sport is very technique intensive and even though i've climbed a long time i find that my skills get refined when i get on the rock more often. i've tried probably most or all of the training ideas for the past 25 years and my opinion is that no one really knows what works and what doesn't as far as training for rock climbing is concerned. my experience says a good general base of fitness is where you start and that a hangboard or some such isometric finger strength specific training is useful, but that getting out on the rock is the key to getting better. also, keep the weight down.
|
|
|
|
|
Grizvok
May 22, 2009, 4:06 PM
Post #77 of 83
(1294 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2008
Posts: 153
|
Wow, I'll retract some of my statements in this thread. And jay, The Self-Coached Climber really does seem to be THAT good of a book.
|
|
|
|
|
roy_hinkley_jr
May 22, 2009, 5:58 PM
Post #78 of 83
(1280 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2005
Posts: 652
|
jt512 wrote: You have yet to show that weight training will result in greater muscle fiber recruitment during climbing in the relevant climbing muscles than would training by using actual climbing movements, and that the superior muscle fiber recruitment you claim would occur would actually result in an improvement in climbing performance. The point of weightlifting is so that there will be LESS recruitment of muscle fibers during climbing. If you raise your maximum strength with optimal training, then you can climb more efficiently by not needing as much recruitment, thus keeping more in reserve. Of course climbing IS a form of weight training but it's not very effective in terms of time spent, maximum strength achieved, or completeness to avoid imbalances. Better to use climbing for the neural and mental component (what SCC is about) and proper resistance training for maximizing results.
|
|
|
|
|
rosyshaj
May 23, 2009, 4:15 AM
Post #79 of 83
(1265 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2009
Posts: 1
|
Where is a good stopping point? Where should I cap my weight at for climbing? ========================= visit rosyshaj [url=http://www.trainwithmeonline.com/programs.asp]workout routines
|
|
|
|
|
Grizvok
May 23, 2009, 4:28 AM
Post #80 of 83
(1262 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2008
Posts: 153
|
rosyshaj wrote: Where is a good stopping point? Where should I cap my weight at for climbing? It depends on your height obviously.
(This post was edited by Grizvok on May 23, 2009, 4:28 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
jeffwalker
May 23, 2009, 3:10 PM
Post #81 of 83
(1236 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 16
|
Grizvok wrote: Wow, I'll retract some of my statements in this thread. And jay, The Self-Coached Climber really does seem to be THAT good of a book. are you being sarcastic, griz? i can't tell from this post.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
May 23, 2009, 10:23 PM
Post #82 of 83
(1217 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
jeffwalker wrote: Grizvok wrote: Wow, I'll retract some of my statements in this thread. And jay, The Self-Coached Climber really does seem to be THAT good of a book. are you being sarcastic, griz? i can't tell from this post. No, he's not. Jay
|
|
|
|
|
Grizvok
May 25, 2009, 4:40 AM
Post #83 of 83
(1186 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2008
Posts: 153
|
jt512 wrote: jeffwalker wrote: Grizvok wrote: Wow, I'll retract some of my statements in this thread. And jay, The Self-Coached Climber really does seem to be THAT good of a book. are you being sarcastic, griz? i can't tell from this post. No, he's not. Jay Jay is correct. I wasn't being sarcastic at all; this book is really damn good. The individual activities (all climbing based) seem well thought out and great for almost anybody to become a more efficient mover. Too bad it can't rid me of the food poisoning I got on Friday from some Maryland crab soup at Whole Foods...
|
|
|
|
|
|