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gblauer
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Aug 2, 2011, 1:43 PM
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sounds like you had an adventure.

I am totally too old for an "adventure" like that. I like to get back into my own little bed after a hard day of climbing. Sleeping under pine boughs sounds a little rough to me.

Did you think about NOT climbing when you got to the base at 430?


dagibbs


Aug 2, 2011, 8:10 PM
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gblauer wrote:
sounds like you had an adventure.

I am totally too old for an "adventure" like that. I like to get back into my own little bed after a hard day of climbing. Sleeping under pine boughs sounds a little rough to me.

Did you think about NOT climbing when you got to the base at 430?

I'm 43 -- I'm too old for an adventure like that, too.

And, yes, we did think about not climbing. But, the problem is, out was up. We might have been faster to try and bushwhack back up the (really ugly) descent gully. But that would have meant climbing steep, wet, moss-covered rock instead. There was, also, a 2nd route that we might have considered -- but it ended at the same place with the same final two pitches. Maybe climbing in parallel would have been a better idea.

What we probably should have done is aborted when reached the top of Pyramid peak and realized how late it was then.


darkgift06


Aug 3, 2011, 11:23 AM
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Re: [dagibbs] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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almost an epic I'd say... If I'm doing anything with more than an hour-2hr approach I typically go for an alpine start 4-5am. The reason: its easy to hike in with light getting better & better, & not so easy to hike out with light getting worse & worse.


losbill


Aug 3, 2011, 2:58 PM
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DA -- Enjoyed the new route post and most particularly the epic post. Gud'on ya! You had an adventure and everyone got home safe

TarHeel, dare I ask for more details?!?!? Actually would be interested hearing more about it. The climbing that is.

DIP - Wife - Climbing? Sometimes you just have to make choices in life!

Despite three days on Cannon recently, no epics. Headed up to North Conway this weekend to get challenged on some hard, at least for me 5.9, crack climbs. May have an epic or two to relate when I get back.

Gail made a quick, last minute trip to Gunks Sunday so I didn't call. Saw the truck in the PL as we were pulling out at 6:30 PM. Guess you guys waited until things cooled off a bit.

Did Dog-Stick-Ridge and found it to be a pretty hard 5.8, but fun and challenging. Have you done it? Had to hang out smearing on pretty slick and steep terrain hanging on to a finger crack fiddling gear in. This was after making the very committing crux move. The consequences of peeling were not great, which gave me great motivation to hang in and get the gear in. Breathed more easily when I did but still had 10 more feet of the finger crack to get up before it eased up but that was protected by an easily slotted bomber nut half way up the corner.


gblauer
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Aug 4, 2011, 12:38 PM
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Re: [losbill] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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Bill, It was my birthday on Sunday so we stayed up at the gunks for an extra day and had the option of starting later than usual. Have never done dog stick ridge combo. With your description, I think I will follow you!

We have been gunking every weekend. It always feels like one step forward (I lead Raubenheimers, a climb I said I could never lead) and 2 steps backward (I still haven't lead Apoplexy) for me. I am frustrated and disappointed in myself.

I am headed to squamish right now and am excited to get out of the gunks heat for a few days. From squamish to vegas (no climbing) to DC to home to the Gunks next Friday. I am contemplating doing a nude ascent of Shockleys on Saturday or Sunday prime time. Wanted to do it on my bday weekend (bday climbing in my bday suit) but I just wasn't feelin' it.


Gmburns2000


Aug 4, 2011, 5:49 PM
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Re: [gblauer] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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gblauer wrote:
Bill, It was my birthday on Sunday so we stayed up at the gunks for an extra day and had the option of starting later than usual. Have never done dog stick ridge combo. With your description, I think I will follow you!

We have been gunking every weekend. It always feels like one step forward (I lead Raubenheimers, a climb I said I could never lead) and 2 steps backward (I still haven't lead Apoplexy) for me. I am frustrated and disappointed in myself.

I am headed to squamish right now and am excited to get out of the gunks heat for a few days. From squamish to vegas (no climbing) to DC to home to the Gunks next Friday. I am contemplating doing a nude ascent of Shockleys on Saturday or Sunday prime time. Wanted to do it on my bday weekend (bday climbing in my bday suit) but I just wasn't feelin' it.

I think the only way to do shockley's is prime time. I've been wanting to do it but haven't found the right partners. This doing Shockley's at night thing is a bad idea. One either does it or doesn't.


jakedatc


Aug 4, 2011, 7:04 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
gblauer wrote:
Bill, It was my birthday on Sunday so we stayed up at the gunks for an extra day and had the option of starting later than usual. Have never done dog stick ridge combo. With your description, I think I will follow you!

We have been gunking every weekend. It always feels like one step forward (I lead Raubenheimers, a climb I said I could never lead) and 2 steps backward (I still haven't lead Apoplexy) for me. I am frustrated and disappointed in myself.

I am headed to squamish right now and am excited to get out of the gunks heat for a few days. From squamish to vegas (no climbing) to DC to home to the Gunks next Friday. I am contemplating doing a nude ascent of Shockleys on Saturday or Sunday prime time. Wanted to do it on my bday weekend (bday climbing in my bday suit) but I just wasn't feelin' it.

I think the only way to do shockley's is prime time. I've been wanting to do it but haven't found the right partners. This doing Shockley's at night thing is a bad idea. One either does it or doesn't.

There are no right partners.. no one needs to see that..


Gmburns2000


Aug 4, 2011, 7:07 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
gblauer wrote:
Bill, It was my birthday on Sunday so we stayed up at the gunks for an extra day and had the option of starting later than usual. Have never done dog stick ridge combo. With your description, I think I will follow you!

We have been gunking every weekend. It always feels like one step forward (I lead Raubenheimers, a climb I said I could never lead) and 2 steps backward (I still haven't lead Apoplexy) for me. I am frustrated and disappointed in myself.

I am headed to squamish right now and am excited to get out of the gunks heat for a few days. From squamish to vegas (no climbing) to DC to home to the Gunks next Friday. I am contemplating doing a nude ascent of Shockleys on Saturday or Sunday prime time. Wanted to do it on my bday weekend (bday climbing in my bday suit) but I just wasn't feelin' it.

I think the only way to do shockley's is prime time. I've been wanting to do it but haven't found the right partners. This doing Shockley's at night thing is a bad idea. One either does it or doesn't.

There are no right partners.. no one needs to see that..

and yet, someday, it'll be done regardless.


rockie


Aug 5, 2011, 2:46 AM
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I always like your blogs Gmburns.

I am aiming to climb the Peak district either this weekend or the next (North Burbage is taking my fancy as it's crack climbs there), with the toddler in tow. First time I am managing to get out for a while, and craving it.

So may well add to your blog once that happens. For now I'll take a read.


Gmburns2000


Aug 5, 2011, 5:06 AM
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Re: [rockie] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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rockie wrote:
I always like your blogs Gmburns.

I am aiming to climb the Peak district either this weekend or the next (North Burbage is taking my fancy as it's crack climbs there), with the toddler in tow. First time I am managing to get out for a while, and craving it.

So may well add to your blog once that happens. For now I'll take a read.

thanks rockie. glad to see that you're getting out with the kiddo, too.


rockie


Aug 5, 2011, 4:33 PM
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For sure.. and he's going to love it too, he's a natural already shockingly at almost age 2 Smile

Aiming for next weekend to climb at Millstone, or Froggatt at the Peaks as recommended to me, we shall see as long as I can get 3 of us. Can always do a bit of tame bouldering if all else fails.

Peaks is going to be my no.1 popular destination now as it's nearest to me, 3 hrs drive away. For some reason I've no desire for gyms anymore (except winter months when wet and cold of course).


core


Aug 5, 2011, 6:09 PM
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You don't have to look, but you might as well soak up the experience. Crowded weekends are the best. Even better when you swap stories with two members of the infamous ascent immediately after you climb it.

Good times, good times:




Gmburns2000


Aug 5, 2011, 6:25 PM
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core wrote:
You don't have to look, but you might as well soak up the experience. Crowded weekends are the best. Even better when you swap stories with two members of the infamous ascent immediately after you climb it.

Good times, good times:


I know this ascent was a sort of last-second decision, but did you know they were up top when you did it?


gblauer
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Aug 5, 2011, 8:51 PM
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In Squamish for the weekend. We climbed at Smoke Bluffs (Burger and Fries, Neat and Cool) today. It was crazy crowded; top ropes, babies, toddlers, strollers, nursing mothers everywhere. I really didn't enjoy the crowds at all. I did enjoy the climbing. I am learning to crack climb and when it's right, it feels really right. Most of the time I get my feet stuck or I feel really insecure. I did learn that I am not as bad as I think I am on slab. We did a few 10+ slab climbs and they were fun. I thought it would kill my feet, but, they are feeling ok this evening.

We are doing a long multi pitch tomorrow, hopefully far away from the maddening crowds.


Gmburns2000


Aug 5, 2011, 8:57 PM
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gblauer wrote:
In Squamish for the weekend. We climbed at Smoke Bluffs (Burger and Fries, Neat and Cool) today. It was crazy crowded; top ropes, babies, toddlers, strollers, nursing mothers everywhere. I really didn't enjoy the crowds at all. I did enjoy the climbing. I am learning to crack climb and when it's right, it feels really right. Most of the time I get my feet stuck or I feel really insecure. I did learn that I am not as bad as I think I am on slab. We did a few 10+ slab climbs and they were fun. I thought it would kill my feet, but, they are feeling ok this evening.

We are doing a long multi pitch tomorrow, hopefully far away from the maddening crowds.


who are you climbing with?


gblauer
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Aug 5, 2011, 8:58 PM
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I am here with Manny (sonso45)


Gmburns2000


Aug 5, 2011, 9:01 PM
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gblauer wrote:
I am here with Manny (sonso45)


sweet. send pics.


sethg


Aug 6, 2011, 8:10 AM
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gblauer wrote:
Bill, It was my birthday on Sunday so we stayed up at the gunks for an extra day and had the option of starting later than usual. Have never done dog stick ridge combo. With your description, I think I will follow you!

We have been gunking every weekend. It always feels like one step forward (I lead Raubenheimers, a climb I said I could never lead) and 2 steps backward (I still haven't lead Apoplexy) for me. I am frustrated and disappointed in myself.

I am headed to squamish right now and am excited to get out of the gunks heat for a few days. From squamish to vegas (no climbing) to DC to home to the Gunks next Friday. I am contemplating doing a nude ascent of Shockleys on Saturday or Sunday prime time. Wanted to do it on my bday weekend (bday climbing in my bday suit) but I just wasn't feelin' it.


Gail, I don't know why you're disappointed in yourself. FWIW I think I'd be much more afraid to climb Shockley's naked than Apoplexy clothed!


Gmburns2000


Aug 6, 2011, 3:47 PM
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Made it to the 'Gunks this past weekend with a few friends. It is probably my last trip there for some time. I didn't push myself, and I wasn't concerned with doing so. For one, it was hot, two, I didn't care that much, and three I was really enjoying myself watching a good friend finally feel comfortable on lead on gear. I'm proud of her and her progress. I really hope she can continue to improve.

Otherwise, it was a very enjoyable weekend other than one person exposing himself at Split Rock. We had Terrie file an incident report and hopefully he goes away. I doubt it, though.

The new post is now on the blog (it's short).


rockie


Aug 6, 2011, 4:46 PM
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gblauer wrote:
In Squamish for the weekend. We climbed at Smoke Bluffs (Burger and Fries, Neat and Cool) today. It was crazy crowded; top ropes, babies, toddlers, strollers, nursing mothers everywhere. I really didn't enjoy the crowds at all. I did enjoy the climbing. I am learning to crack climb and when it's right, it feels really right. Most of the time I get my feet stuck or I feel really insecure. I did learn that I am not as bad as I think I am on slab. We did a few 10+ slab climbs and they were fun. I thought it would kill my feet, but, they are feeling ok this evening.

We are doing a long multi pitch tomorrow, hopefully far away from the maddening crowds.

Wow! It was never so bad the whole time I climbed there, in 2-3 yrs before now, sounds like it's got worse.

Editted to add, crack climbs are my ultimate fav climbs, hand, fist, arm, leg as well as foot cam and you'll do fine Smile


(This post was edited by rockie on Aug 6, 2011, 4:48 PM)


core


Aug 6, 2011, 9:24 PM
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In reply to:
I know this ascent was a sort of last-second decision, but did you know they were up top when you did it?

No. This was a hot and humid weekend back in June 2009. Saturday was nasty. I remember warming up on Insuhlation, climbing an actively running The Spring to The Winter, and sliming off the reverse crab crawl moves of Carbs and Caffeine.

That night, the sky pissed. It was a long piss (think both hands leaning on the wall in front of the urinal) that lasted until the morning. When we woke up, much of the Trapps was either slick or running with water. We climbed Something Interesting and wrang out all the slings when we were done. I don't remember what else we had planned for the day, but I think we were subconsciously inspired when we saw Dick Williams (with the trail crew) as we walked south along the cliff looking for our next climb.

Shockley's was free. Why not?

Though my partner and I had been honing our simul-climbing skills and communication over the past couple of seasons, I have to admit I surprised when I heard: "Cory, hang on! A little slack, I'm switching to Vulgarian mode!"

I had already climbed SC in "style" on a sunny Saturday afternoon a couple years earlier, so I wasn't really thinking about Vulgarian ascents that day. Regardless, there I was reeling in rope as my good friend climbed towards me, his clothes in a pile at the base of the cliff.

Not long after he announced his intentions, I heard the trail crew's shovels drop, footsteps approach, and cat-calls ensue. When we got to the top, I amused myself by trying to convince my partner that it was walk-off descent. (We ended up rapping off, and I donated my shorts for the endeavor.)

Later that day we crossed paths with Mr. Williams and Mr. DeMaria as we hiked out of the preserve. We all laughed over conversation of reunion ascents and sagging body parts (hey, it happens to the best of us!).




gblauer
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Aug 6, 2011, 9:30 PM
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Very cool story, thanks for sharing that.


Gmburns2000


Aug 7, 2011, 6:55 AM
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wow, so you've done it twice then? I thought I remember one story about how there were familiar female eyes below yelling "ah! my eyes!!!!" Or at least that's what you're wife told me.


blueeyedclimber


Aug 7, 2011, 2:06 PM
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Very cool story, Cory!

I unfortunately don't have a tale as interesting (yet cliche), and naked. Our weekend warrior story is more about humidity and humility.

Tiff was away, so I had made plans to climb in the Gunks with my friend Rob. Well, the weather didnt seem to want to cooperate so we headed north to NH for only slightly better weather and more importantly, a shorter drive.

Our plan was to head to the south buttress of Whitehorse and climb The Last Unicorn and hopefully another climb such as Science Friction. After doing unicorn in 97% humidity and also wondering if thunderstorms were in the near future we decided to go find something closer to the ground. As always, The North End of Cathedral is a nice way to end the day. I have led most of the climbs there but there was one that I haven't yet attempted. I was tired but figured I had enough in the gas tank for a single pitch 5.10. Of course, this is a Henry Barber 5.10, so naturally I was prepared to do 5.11 moves. I can honestly say that Recluse at the North End has the single hardest 5.10 move I have ever done.

Saturday night, as expexted, the rains came. I think our minds were made up that if it rains, we were headed to Sundown ledge, which made it inevitable that we would soon be climbing the second hardest single pitch 5.10 in existence, Vultures. Vultures is a classic hard finger crack that was also put up by Barber. I consider myself a solid 5.10 leader, on sighting most 5.10's, regardless of style. I have been on Vultures about 5 or 6 times and have only led it clean once. Today was not that day. I put it up anyways and then we each toproped it clean. I was hoping to get on the harder climbs but just felt wiped. It was gross and sticky out and my fingers, toes and biceps were barking.

Sometimes I feel like a good climber. This weekend, I just felt slightly above average.

Josh


losbill


Aug 7, 2011, 5:21 PM
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Cory ditto the "very cool story" really enjoyed it.

Josh I got humbled at North Conway this weekend as well but in a somewhat less worthy and definitely more painful manner.

losbill wrote:
Despite three days on Cannon recently, no epics. Headed up to North Conway this weekend to get challenged on some hard, at least for me 5.9, crack climbs. May have an epic or two to relate when I get back.

Well under the heading of careful on what you "wish" for, here's the story

Partner slepted in so we didn't reach the start of Recompense (5.9) until 8:30 AM. Predictably there was a cast of thousands already there. Looked over and The Saigons were open. Cruised up those. Approached Pine Tree Eliminate and unbelievably a second was just leaving the ground and there was no one waiting. Nine years ago in my first year of trad climbing, following only, I followed Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8+). Made a mental note that I would like to lead it someday at that time. The few times I have been by it since it has been tied up. Jumped on it and really enjoyed it. Did have some issues getting in good gear in the steep first bit but the jams were so good it wasn't an issue.

Walked down and considered a couple of options. As Josh has noted it was humid but decided to go get Recompense done nevertheless, my partner Tom wanted to get the redpoint of the third pitch that he had been humbled on earlier in the season.

I took the Chimney pitch, cruising up without a problem until right at the end. I am at the stance at the base of the layback section 10 feet from the belay edge. Didn't find the pro I expected due to misprocessing my partner's gear beta. "No Bill, your other left side." Last gear was well beneath my feet. Bad judgement then occurred. Didn't really have my head in the game, the beers were calling and I was chatting with the couple at the belay just a few feet above. Although a bit challenging I was pretty confident about being able to move up the last bit without difficulty. Knew the #3 cam below was solid and the fall, albeit long, should be clean.

Stepped up, swung into the left-angling layback and up I went. Stopped near the top, stepped out on face with left foot on a good nub to consider my options for gaining the ledge. Two moves to go, decided to continue laybacking. While shifting back into the layback off went the feet, sending me off in a horizontal position. Took a twenty+ footer and I'm mainly intact. However caught some part of the chimney on the way down bruising my right side hip, gashing my right forearm and taking a whack on the right side of my head. Despite the helmet I got a knock on the head severe enough to result in a small egg on the top right side of my head.

The worse part was that my head hit the rock hard enough to pop out the right lens of my glasses. I am virtually blind without my them. Dinged up as I would have considered going back up and finishing it but was not going to get it done "by feel". I down climbed belayed from the #3 cam to the birch tree which I rapped off of to the belay. I did not relish the idea of seconding the pitch and the tough corner pitch above not being able to see and being a bit banged up and we decided to bail. Tom led up to the #3 and then down led back to the belay collecting the gear. Angled rapped over to an anchor on The Beast and then to the ground. Thanks to Tom for getting my gear and getting me off safely.

Morals of the story? Keep your head in the game; if you have any doubts about the consequences of a fall don't proceed without getting additional gear in; and probably most importantly, always wear the helmet. This is the first time the helmet has come into play in 8 years of leading. I don't want to think of the consequences had I not been wearing it.

Now Tom and I both have a reason to get back up there and get on Recompense again. Stay tuned.

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