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jt512
Jul 5, 2009, 5:11 AM
Post #51 of 58
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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Becknology wrote: jt512 wrote: Becknology wrote: Unless you take action, test, question why, and verify your information (preferable with an AMGA Certified Guide)... As opposed to an AMGA Top-Rope Site Manager, eh? ;) Jay  One day at a time Jay, one day at a time
Fair enough, but your self-promotional materials are less than clear about the distinction vis a vis your own qualifications.
Jay
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jt512
Jul 5, 2009, 6:28 AM
Post #52 of 58
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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wiki wrote: Becknology wrote: WordsVerbatim, In the end, when you reach the anchor bolts, and it’s cold or raining, and your a hundred feet off the deck…. You will realize that the world has no books, no forums, no friends, no guides (not usually anyway) and it’s all up to you and your previous use of Personal responsibility. Have you tried cleaning yet? Tried it hanging only a few feet off the ground? If you haven’t, set up a few fake bolts in your garage and hang there a while. What would you want to do to be certain you where safe to go off belay? How safe? How Redundant? Ask a thousand what if’s and try to cover all your bases. What happens if I drop the rope while off belay? Can I prevent this? What if I rappel and one length of rope doesn’t reach the ground? What if I don’t realize it? Would I fall off? How could I prevent this? Ask yourself a MILLIION WHAT IF’s, and hang there a while. When you think you have an answer, do it several times. THEN go seek the answers. If you already think you have the answers, go hang a while and test everything your reading or hearing. You will find that your questions are logical and common, and your will discover why certain subject are always covered in every climbing book. If you don’t apply your own logic and understanding… and DO IT… it’s going to be easy to doubt all advice. Even if a world famous climber taught you personally, when you reach the top of a monster cliff… your guts gonna know that your acting in blind faith, like a robot. You should know why your doing what your doing. If you hang there, you will figure it out. Even if you don’t, when someone does show you the answer, you will be in a position to smell the truth from a lie. Even if you don’t smell the lie, if you pay attention to books, or watch other climbers…you will see a discrepancy. But you get ZERO of these advantages if you don’t try it on your own. You get NOTHING if you don’t take personal responsibility. IMHO, Being Personal Responsible covers a little more work than merely finding the right answers in a book or forum. Unless you take action, test, question why, and verify your information (preferable with an AMGA Certified Guide) your confidence will always lack. And for as solid as you may LOOK, you may never feel this confidence yourself. What is worse, what other may perceive as solid ability, might merely be robot like mindlessness. Lots of action, but no real brains. Not Good! THINK!! There is no dishonor in earning your knowledge for yourself! It might take a little longer, you might hang from your garage rafters for months, but the answers and knowledge will be YOURS! All that said. Now that you have anchor points in your garage. Practice escaping a belay, or a million other rescue techniques. You may not have anything to climb, but you certainly have ample opportunity to learn, welcome to Personal Responsibility. 1,040,136 points for this post! Awesome 
You really think so? It seems rather overwrought given the subject: cleaning a sport route.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jul 5, 2009, 6:44 AM)
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WordsVerbatim
Jul 5, 2009, 5:47 PM
Post #53 of 58
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Registered: May 4, 2009
Posts: 133
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bill413 wrote: WordsVerbatim wrote: bill413 wrote: Words - have you thought about setting up your own climbing wall? Yeah - it's not like real rock, but at least it would be something. Yep. Problem: The grandparents are moving out of this house in August when I leave, so I can't do much as far as building a wall is concerned. I've got other options I'm considering. (Rock Rings, for example, which were mentioned to me in another post.) I understand about not marring the house. Perhaps a wall outside? A tree house?
I could see about our little carport we have. It's filled with junk, though, so I'd have to clear it out a bit first.  I'm going to look into buying some holds, etc off of Amazon. I'll ask the gramps and see what they say. I'm sure it won't be a problem.
If worse comes to worse, we have a LOT of really lovely trees here in Mobile that are only a 5 minute walk from my house. ;D (There are quite a few huge oak trees...) I've been doing that a bit.
Beck - Completely agree. It's something I definitely plan on working on when I have the resources available. Until I can do that, though, reading about technical things (as opposed to experiencing) is really all I can hope for. I do love all of your advice though - Thanks.
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sungam
Jul 5, 2009, 5:58 PM
Post #54 of 58
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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WordsVerbatim wrote: If worse comes to worse, we have a LOT of really lovely trees here in Mobile that are only a 5 minute walk from my house. ;D (There are quite a few huge oak trees...) I've been doing that a bit.
*Da-yum was my first attempt at spelling that wrong! I think I had 2 W's...
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vawallflower
Jul 5, 2009, 6:13 PM
Post #55 of 58
(1463 views)
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Registered: May 21, 2009
Posts: 27
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I watched it with my friend and we had fun picking it apart. I have full confidence in my friend and we crituqued it before hitting the gym for my first sport climb. He had a few things he did differently. Overall, it was helpful to me for an introduction. Can't wait to do it again..
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wiki
Jul 6, 2009, 5:54 AM
Post #56 of 58
(1444 views)
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Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 243
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jt512 wrote: wiki wrote: Becknology wrote: WordsVerbatim, In the end, when you reach the anchor bolts, and it’s cold or raining, and your a hundred feet off the deck…. You will realize that the world has no books, no forums, no friends, no guides (not usually anyway) and it’s all up to you and your previous use of Personal responsibility. Have you tried cleaning yet? Tried it hanging only a few feet off the ground? If you haven’t, set up a few fake bolts in your garage and hang there a while. What would you want to do to be certain you where safe to go off belay? How safe? How Redundant? Ask a thousand what if’s and try to cover all your bases. What happens if I drop the rope while off belay? Can I prevent this? What if I rappel and one length of rope doesn’t reach the ground? What if I don’t realize it? Would I fall off? How could I prevent this? Ask yourself a MILLIION WHAT IF’s, and hang there a while. When you think you have an answer, do it several times. THEN go seek the answers. If you already think you have the answers, go hang a while and test everything your reading or hearing. You will find that your questions are logical and common, and your will discover why certain subject are always covered in every climbing book. If you don’t apply your own logic and understanding… and DO IT… it’s going to be easy to doubt all advice. Even if a world famous climber taught you personally, when you reach the top of a monster cliff… your guts gonna know that your acting in blind faith, like a robot. You should know why your doing what your doing. If you hang there, you will figure it out. Even if you don’t, when someone does show you the answer, you will be in a position to smell the truth from a lie. Even if you don’t smell the lie, if you pay attention to books, or watch other climbers…you will see a discrepancy. But you get ZERO of these advantages if you don’t try it on your own. You get NOTHING if you don’t take personal responsibility. IMHO, Being Personal Responsible covers a little more work than merely finding the right answers in a book or forum. Unless you take action, test, question why, and verify your information (preferable with an AMGA Certified Guide) your confidence will always lack. And for as solid as you may LOOK, you may never feel this confidence yourself. What is worse, what other may perceive as solid ability, might merely be robot like mindlessness. Lots of action, but no real brains. Not Good! THINK!! There is no dishonor in earning your knowledge for yourself! It might take a little longer, you might hang from your garage rafters for months, but the answers and knowledge will be YOURS! All that said. Now that you have anchor points in your garage. Practice escaping a belay, or a million other rescue techniques. You may not have anything to climb, but you certainly have ample opportunity to learn, welcome to Personal Responsibility. 1,040,136 points for this post! Awesome You really think so? It seems rather overwrought given the subject: cleaning a sport route. Jay
But applicable to many other things in climbing...
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unl3a5h3d
Jul 11, 2009, 1:10 AM
Post #57 of 58
(1398 views)
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Registered: Jul 9, 2009
Posts: 6
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WordsVerbatim wrote: Becknology wrote: I would be interested in hearing from climbers that don't lead climb yet, but are thinking about making the transition. What would help you make the transition from top rope, into leading sport or trad climbing? Whats is getting your way or keeping you from taking the next step and getting started? Gear? Fear? Whats the catch?? Gear isn't the problem for me. I can borrow quickdraws from people. The problem is that I only TR like 5.8 and according to one of my climber friends I need to at least be climbing at 5.9/5.10 before I even consider leading. He said that I will be climbing three grades below my usual TR climb, which I figured anyway. But I really, really want to lead. When I get back to school, I plan to do a TON of TR to build my skill/endurance. What I'd started doing before I left school for summer was simply asking for quite a bit of slack. I can't stand the feeling of being "carried" up the wall. And plus, that will hopefully get me used to the feeling of being on lead (in a sense, though I know it's no substitute, really).
Yeah that is me. I could borrow the gear but I don't think I have the skill level yet. Maybe before the summer is over I can try.
Would it be better to first lead climb in a gym or on rock?
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sungam
Jul 11, 2009, 1:12 AM
Post #58 of 58
(1397 views)
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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unl3a5h3d wrote: WordsVerbatim wrote: Becknology wrote: I would be interested in hearing from climbers that don't lead climb yet, but are thinking about making the transition. What would help you make the transition from top rope, into leading sport or trad climbing? Whats is getting your way or keeping you from taking the next step and getting started? Gear? Fear? Whats the catch?? Gear isn't the problem for me. I can borrow quickdraws from people. The problem is that I only TR like 5.8 and according to one of my climber friends I need to at least be climbing at 5.9/5.10 before I even consider leading. He said that I will be climbing three grades below my usual TR climb, which I figured anyway. But I really, really want to lead. When I get back to school, I plan to do a TON of TR to build my skill/endurance. What I'd started doing before I left school for summer was simply asking for quite a bit of slack. I can't stand the feeling of being "carried" up the wall. And plus, that will hopefully get me used to the feeling of being on lead (in a sense, though I know it's no substitute, really). Yeah that is me. I could borrow the gear but I don't think I have the skill level yet. Maybe before the summer is over I can try. Would it be better to first lead climb in a gym or on rock?
Anyways, you can lead now, just make sure it's well withing your ability and you know fully (or as fully as possible) what you're doing.
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