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climbingpa
Jul 27, 2009, 5:09 AM
Post #1827 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 4, 2008
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TRIP REPORT, Went to check out a NEW (to me) crag today. The Pipeline at Stewarton. Rayman, a good buddy of ours, told Laura and I of this super, amazing, wonderful, awesome, overhanging wall that we just had to see. So we three decided to spend a dreary, rest day to go check it out. We hiked 20 minutes or so in a light rain down the train tracks to the gasline. At the gasline we started hiking up the line in about 4' tall dense brush. After about 2 loooong minutes of that nightmare, we decided not seeing out feet in prime rattlesnake habitat was a bad idea and opted to head over and try to make our way up though the woodz. Seemed like a good idea. We made it about 30 yards up the steep, slippery hill when Zap... I got LIT up by a swarm of yellow jackets. After several minutes of less than proud moments, screams of terror and what I'm sure looked like a tribal war dance, I ended up with about 15 to 20 stings. Yep. Oh yeah... I forgot to mention that I'm really not that fond of bees. Ask anyone that's seen me in action... I'm not proud to admit it, but I'm a bee pansy. So now that we're past the bees. on with the story... Up the hill we continue. Making our way through the rain forest, we finally reach the base of super, amazing, wonderful, awesome, overhanging wall. Well lets just say that the slightly hazy memory of our beer swilling buddy Rayman was... how do I say this in a nice way? Horribly wrong! Rayman said and I quote "This is a little smaller than I remember". Standing is front of me is a 25' slightly overhung piece of rock. Seeing that Rayman has spent more time in the "local" woods looking for rock than anyone, I had to cut my buddy some slack... Yeah of course I gave him a hard time for a while, but the story isn't over just yet... To the left of "the amazing wall" really was a cool wall that he had climbed as he says, many years and beers ago. It had 3 cool lines on it that we did. The left line was a cool 5.8+ with a tricky bouldery start that leads you up to an incredible clean corner and crack finish that takes great gear. Such a great climb. To the right side was a line that Ray and Co. worked years ago. It was 5.8 climbing up to an awkward ledge. From there it worked up a classic flaring grit crack to some shallow sloping pockets through the finish. I sent it clean first go. Another very fun line. I'd estimate it to be about 5.11+. In the center of the wall I noticed another line that looked fun. Ray said it had never been tried. The climb went up through 5.10 climbing to a small horizontal break that splits the center of the rock (only gear placement) above this are the last holds before a rather long, blank section. From there make a long reach up to a reasonable hold. This puts you at sloping pockets and a stance. From there do a serious high step up to the same good hold that your hand was on and crank the slopers to the top. Very possible groundfall potential. Attentive running belay recommended. Very cool climbing at 5.12-. After a gloomy start, frantic screaming, approach adventure and a little suffering for what at first seemed like nothing, turned into an amazing day of hanging with great friends, napping and sunshine. I love climbing in SWPA. Hope your day was as miserable as ours !
(This post was edited by climbingpa on Jul 27, 2009, 5:10 AM)
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shadylady
Jul 28, 2009, 2:25 PM
Post #1828 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 12, 2009
Posts: 11
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We are heading into Ohiopyle again this saturday. The forecast is calling for 82° with a 10% chance of rain. Should be a great day. All are welcome to join us. 
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mountainman
Aug 1, 2009, 11:09 PM
Post #1830 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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We had a wonderful day at Breakneck. Despite the heat and humidity, the afternoon shade made it a fairyland of euphoria. The sound of Pink Floyd made it seem higher than ever.
Everyone was mellow. No anger dreams or insulting behavior.
A request for Sublime has been granted.
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climbingpa
Aug 2, 2009, 1:57 AM
Post #1831 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 4, 2008
Posts: 37
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Did some volunteer work for Ohiopyle state park @ Maple wall the other day. Laura and I built a stone walkway across the swampy entrance from the bike trail. We also made stone stairs up the short hillside. The approach is now dry and easy with heavy packs on. Worked on a new project dubbed "Prince of Darkness"  Seems considerably harder than the other lines at the crag.
Today we spent an incredible day at Ohiopyle with some new climbing friends Erika and Leighton. Weather looked foggy this am, but the day turned out amazing with plentiful sun/shade. Everyone climbed well, Laura made her way up Kaya. Erika and Leighton seemed to enjoy their first time there. I took pictures that made everyone look radical. No frustrations of forgotten shoes, ropes or backstabbing idiots. Good times, good friends.... Life is good! 
(This post was edited by climbingpa on Aug 2, 2009, 2:03 AM)
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Rayman
Aug 2, 2009, 4:15 AM
Post #1832 of 2156
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Registered: Jun 9, 2007
Posts: 13
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WOW!!! Where is this place???........
.......I gotta' quit hangin' out with you guys!!!
.....(See ya' tomorrow)
R
(caught one 'rock bass' today on a 'bead-head nymph' at 'Thirty-Foot)
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jumpbuilder
Aug 2, 2009, 7:41 PM
Post #1833 of 2156
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Registered: Jul 4, 2008
Posts: 1
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where is this place? I'm in waaaay eastern pa. almost Delaware. is it further than the Gunks?
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microbarn
Aug 2, 2009, 10:09 PM
Post #1834 of 2156
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Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
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jumpbuilder wrote: where is this place? I'm in waaaay eastern pa. almost Delaware. is it further than the Gunks?
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mountainman
Aug 3, 2009, 5:52 PM
Post #1835 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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Don't forget the forgotten harness!
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mountainman
Aug 5, 2009, 9:39 PM
Post #1836 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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How posted is High Rocks?
Is Krahlick's open?
(This post was edited by mountainman on Aug 5, 2009, 9:40 PM)
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joeforte
Aug 6, 2009, 3:49 AM
Post #1837 of 2156
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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mountainman wrote: How posted is High Rocks? Is Krahlick's open?
Bad form, Public internet forum. They are both closed from what I heard last.
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truello
Aug 6, 2009, 2:13 PM
Post #1838 of 2156
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Registered: Oct 1, 2006
Posts: 737
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Last I heard High Rocks was OK to climb, then some klutz broke his ankle and tried to sue the landowner.
Thus -- no more climbing.
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joeforte
Aug 7, 2009, 11:05 AM
Post #1839 of 2156
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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truello wrote: Last I heard High Rocks was OK to climb, then some klutz broke his ankle and tried to sue the landowner. Thus -- no more climbing.
Was he climbing?
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truello
Aug 7, 2009, 4:37 PM
Post #1840 of 2156
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Registered: Oct 1, 2006
Posts: 737
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lowPro wrote: Does anyone know who the landowner of Derry high Rocks is? I would like to try and get access for people to climb there again. I have an attorney who will draft a liability release for us if we can talk to the owner. Got chased out last weekend by PA Game Wardens who said some fat guy had broken his ankle there last year and sued. Go figure............
Had to search all over for where I read it, turns out it was only 34 posts back
(This post was edited by truello on Aug 7, 2009, 4:38 PM)
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mountainman
Aug 7, 2009, 5:15 PM
Post #1841 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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My advice is to go somewhere else. Why antagonize people to climb at a glass infested, paint covered choss heap?
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charley
Aug 7, 2009, 8:52 PM
Post #1842 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
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mountainman wrote: My advice is to go somewhere else. Why antagonize people to climb at a glass infested, paint covered choss heap?
That has kinda been my thinking on the place.
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shadylady
Aug 7, 2009, 9:28 PM
Post #1843 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 12, 2009
Posts: 11
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Hey there! We're heading into Ohiopyle for some steep sport climbs tomorrow (Saturday). Weather is looking great- mostly cloudy with a high of 80 degrees. Get in touch if you'd like to join us... should be a great day
climbingpa wrote: Yawnnnn! Since the forum and local climbing seems to be on the decline, I'll try to spark some interest! Heading to Ohiopyle to climb at Schoolhouse, Maple Wall, etc. If you want to check it out, get a printed copy of routes or any other info, whatever. Get in touch. Anyone is welcome. Hope to see climbers utilize this fun LEGAL crag. http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/.../parks/ohiopyle.aspx Ohiopyle State Park has listed it as a permissible climbing area on their website. These newly opened crags are still being developed. It has new routes to be done. I assure you its well worth a visit. I believe it has some of the longest, best routes in SWPA! Something for everyone... Bolted 5.5's and up. They're calling your name. You know you want to get on 'em. Come one, come all, to some of the bestest climbing in the region. You have my word! (for what thats worth  ) Cheers and happy climbings to all.
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charley
Aug 7, 2009, 11:48 PM
Post #1844 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
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Oh, I wish.
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truello
Aug 11, 2009, 1:36 AM
Post #1846 of 2156
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Registered: Oct 1, 2006
Posts: 737
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Had a long but awesome day of SW PA climbing on Tim Anderson classics.
We stopped at Breakneck on the way down to do a couple of routes around 11am. Was already really hot by then but the climbing wasn't too bad. Nobody else there, though.
Then drove the rest of the way to Ohiopyle, stopped for a quick swim and biked just over 4 miles to Schoolhouse for our first time there. What an enjoyable cruise in, definitely my kind of approach.
There were 5 people there when we got there around 3 but they were on their way out. We hit up a few of the easier routes and Beau got on the Firefly extension and did great. We also checked out Maple Wall on the way out which is equally as nice, though not as developed yet.
Tim, Laura and his son were there. Always nice to have such a wealth of local knowledge at your fingertips 
Hot, but beautiful day. By the way, Schoolhouse felt significantly cooler than Breakneck.
http://www.flickr.com/...e-posted/2009/08/10/
(This post was edited by truello on Aug 11, 2009, 2:06 AM)
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shadylady
Aug 11, 2009, 2:59 PM
Post #1847 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 12, 2009
Posts: 11
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Nice to see fellow climbers out at the crag. It was the hottest day yet this year, but that didn't stop everyone from having a good time. Truello and crew were there, sampling some of the new lines. We met Susanne and party from the climbing wall. We even had some visiting climbers from Virginia Beach come for some steep climbing. It was nice to see our hometown area getting more traffic. We've heard some people say that they would like to come, but there's no "easier" stuff... There are enough moderates to make everyone smile. Here's a picture of Little Man testing his toothpick arms on the start of Soul Rebel (5.12 Little Man A1).
Tim and I plan on going back again this Saturday....Partly cloudy with a high of 81 degrees and only 20% chance of precip. If anyone is interested in joining us, get in touch. We'd love to show you around.
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joeforte
Aug 11, 2009, 3:29 PM
Post #1848 of 2156
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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Wow, he looks like Dan Osman doing the human-flag move. Is that your son?
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shadylady
Aug 11, 2009, 3:33 PM
Post #1849 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 12, 2009
Posts: 11
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This is the up-and-coming Dan Osman. He's Tim's son, the one and only Little Man
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charley
Aug 11, 2009, 5:53 PM
Post #1850 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
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I'm glad to see you folks having a good time there. I hope to get there later. I am busy painting my new house. When I get too tired I put up a light or ceiling fan. I have a bathroom, bedroom and hall equivilent to another bedroom to go. When that is done I should start on the yard. Whenever everyone else gets done and inspected I can move. Take care. Climb safe.
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