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climbingtrash
Dec 4, 2014, 9:41 PM
Post #103901 of 105309
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PTFTW?!?
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climbingtrash
Dec 4, 2014, 9:41 PM
Post #103902 of 105309
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low hanging froot
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climbingtrash
Dec 4, 2014, 9:41 PM
Post #103903 of 105309
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protekt
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climbingtrash
Dec 4, 2014, 9:42 PM
Post #103904 of 105309
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one moar fore teh sn00b
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climbingtrash
Dec 4, 2014, 9:44 PM
Post #103905 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: Yeah well crack lover thought so. Anyway, I think we settled on the reason. Jiant Boners. Yore welcum
I'm shore I would have got to that at sum poynte.
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climbingtrash
Dec 4, 2014, 9:47 PM
Post #103906 of 105309
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cracklover wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: cracklover wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: fucking off on a completely dead rc.knob That's cause some of us were out climbing the rocks. Rumney report: Blackjack crack is really fun, even if it is way short. I'll take the 10+ OS, I guess, but seriously, only reason me or Allison could come up with to justify the grade is that NE climbers are completely clueless on crack. Very slightly overhanging, but with lots of features for feet the whole way up. In Colorado that would be 9+/10-. GO Wow. Way to spray down a 20 foot boulder problem. Everything from region-based downgrading to move-specific beta, to subtle look-at-me-i'm-rad spray. In four short sentences, nonetheless! Wanker. Ha! Way to get butthurt cause you were stuck at home and I was out climbing! For the rest - pretty weke flamage. How can I possibly be spraying on sending a short moderate crack? The only thing in there that hits the mark is that yes, I'm downgrading. I happen to find it interesting to compare the differences between regions. I wouldn't be surprised if Blackjack Crack would be considered way soft at V2 or 10d pretty much anywhere out west. But I use Colorado as a yardstick because I'm most familiar with the grading there. In other ways, on other routes, Rumney is probably a bit sandbagged compared to some sport venues. Allison certainly found a lot of the routes to feel harder than what she remembered for the grade in CO. It's those powerful bouldery cruxes. I think some Rumney routes would definitely get higher grades in CO. GO
Sounded like spray to me.
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climbingtrash
Dec 4, 2014, 9:50 PM
Post #103907 of 105309
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epoch wrote: ...getting back into it again. I am the sux.
There-there champ, everyone has a hard tyme their first day back on teh rocks bad mitten court.
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dr_feelgood
Dec 4, 2014, 10:30 PM
Post #103908 of 105309
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climbingtrash wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: So a few months ago, I got The Bread Bible. Hadn't ever baked much bread before, but this book is rather easy to use. Highly recommended. I've been largely sticking to the more rustic hearth loaf, but last night I made a fucking awesome cracked wheat sandwich loaf  WHITE FLOUR!!! Evar made a cornbacked rattler loaf?
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climbingtrash
Dec 4, 2014, 10:53 PM
Post #103909 of 105309
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carabiner96 wrote: Week end - awesome sauce. Climbed hard. Made some new friends that will keep pushing me. Found that singing Disney songs while climbing decreases pain from sharp limestone crimps. Someone put a bug in my ear about doing a big wall in Yos. I always said I had no interest, but now I'm kinda thinking about it.
Yos iz a ghetto. Lets punish ewe on a wall in noiZ.
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climbingtrash
Dec 4, 2014, 10:59 PM
Post #103910 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: Not sure yet. Having trouble figuring out a way out of here to make my flight home.
Have ewe tried hamfisting yore way outta teh country?
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climbingtrash
Dec 4, 2014, 11:59 PM
Post #103912 of 105309
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cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: cracklover wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: fucking off on a completely dead rc.knob That's cause some of us were out climbing the rocks. Rumney report: Blackjack crack is really fun, even if it is way short. I'll take the 10+ OS, I guess, but seriously, only reason me or Allison could come up with to justify the grade is that NE climbers are completely clueless on crack. Very slightly overhanging, but with lots of features for feet the whole way up. In Colorado that would be 9+/10-. GO Wow. Way to spray down a 20 foot boulder problem. Everything from region-based downgrading to move-specific beta, to subtle look-at-me-i'm-rad spray. In four short sentences, nonetheless! Wanker. Ha! Way to get butthurt cause you were stuck at home and I was out climbing! For the rest - pretty weke flamage. How can I possibly be spraying on sending a short moderate crack? GO oh, you can spray about a short moderate boulder problem, too. I'll teach you how... Someday. I think the key is to let others spray on my behalf: My buddy Mike was taking pics the day I roped up for the featherbagged boulder problem. It seems a pic he took of me is being featured on Climbing Mag's site. Woo! https://www.facebook.com/...1/10152316569202132/ Has Doc shot hisself in the face yet? GO
Yore write, that's a grate shot!
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:02 AM
Post #103913 of 105309
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dr_feelgood
Dec 5, 2014, 12:05 AM
Post #103914 of 105309
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New favorite adjective:
Fuckered.
Usage: My workload for this week is completely fuckered.
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:06 AM
Post #103915 of 105309
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cracklover wrote: tripperjm wrote: cracklover wrote: lena_chita wrote: cracklover wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: cracklover wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: fucking off on a completely dead rc.knob That's cause some of us were out climbing the rocks. Rumney report: Blackjack crack is really fun, even if it is way short. I'll take the 10+ OS, I guess, but seriously, only reason me or Allison could come up with to justify the grade is that NE climbers are completely clueless on crack. Very slightly overhanging, but with lots of features for feet the whole way up. In Colorado that would be 9+/10-. GO Wow. Way to spray down a 20 foot boulder problem. Everything from region-based downgrading to move-specific beta, to subtle look-at-me-i'm-rad spray. In four short sentences, nonetheless! Wanker. Ha! Way to get butthurt cause you were stuck at home and I was out climbing! For the rest - pretty weke flamage. How can I possibly be spraying on sending a short moderate crack? GO oh, you can spray about a short moderate boulder problem, too. I'll teach you how... Someday. I think the key is to let others spray on my behalf: My buddy Mike was taking pics the day I roped up for the featherbagged boulder problem. It seems a pic he took of me is being featured on Climbing Mag's site. Woo! https://www.facebook.com/...1/10152316569202132/ Has Doc shot hisself in the face yet? GO Gunna has to go with teh doc on this won... Yer a sprayer alrite, a pathetic little number dropping poser boy. Who just kan't shut teh fuk up about how bitchin ewe think ewe are. Ewe make me wunt to puke!!!1 'Course you do. But you got me all wrong, Jack. I'm a mediocre climber, probably always will be, and I'm definitely not trying to spray about climbing 5.10! How is that sprayworthy? I was trying (but, apparently, failing) to say I was having a hard time understanding the grade on the route. Though Epoch, at least, understood and agreed with me. epoch wrote: it's .9 unless it's wet. Then it's maybe .10a. So many features. I'll tell you the truth - anything cool that I may think I've actually accomplished - you lot would be the last I'd tell about it. I just mention the pic in the mag because I like to see Doc squirm. If he wasn't such a douche, I wouldn't bother. GO
That's sum caring right ^^ there.
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:09 AM
Post #103917 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: New favorite adjective: Fuckered. Usage: My workload for this week is completely fuckered.
#poorlifechoices My work load got fuckered by teh weather but knot in a bad way.
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:12 AM
Post #103918 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Does the wanker have tuberculosis? Why is h3ll Lunger for him?
*shrug*
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:23 AM
Post #103919 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: tripperjm wrote: lena_chita wrote: tripperjm wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Weke end report! Finally got my flatirons on, climbed the third on Saturday (in costume) and all 10 pitches of the first on Sunday. The first has the scariest 5.0 traverse, it was super fun. Now I want to go back and lead all 8 pitches on the third for bragging rights. In general I'm trying to lead more, I'm pretty much lead only in the gym and I'm easing into easy stuff outside. I just feel like such a leech when I ask someone to go climbing and don't lead anything myself, especially since it's all mental. Butterfly wings were cool. Badass flutter-by! And no, you are not a leech, even if you decide not to lead ever, but I am not good at pep talk right now, bc this is exactly how I feel at the moment. I was all cool with Ed setting up TRs for me, but now that he is out of commission again, it feels really weird to ask people... Nathan is generally pretty good with me. If he thinks I'll have problems with a route on lead he'll often let me TR it (assuming it's not a steep route or something like that). But if it's not a good route he'll just strip the draws and we'll move onto the next one. He hates belaying me if I'll be dogging on TR though, so I won't get this kind of service on anything harder than mid 5.11. Nothing wrong with TRing though. It's only a problem if you're getting people to climb things they don't really want to so you can TR it. I've been with people like that and it's irritating. In your case, Lena, if I were climbing with you I'd assume you'd want to TR. When you have an injury it's nice to know you can just let go if you find a move that bothers you. Yup. That's exactly how I was climbing the Rocktoberfedt weekend, letting go as soon as I got to a move that seemed like it would require something funky for the knee. But see, unless people are close to me, they don't really know/think about it. It's like, oh, yeah, you had surgery? It was some time ago, wasn't it? You gotta be all recovered now, right? LOL, god knows it feels like forever ago. But it has been only a few weeks since I started walking, and I still have a lot of "you are not allowed to do XYZ until at least December" warnings. I've gotten a bunch of random things from people like "My brother-in-laws second cousin had knee surgery, and he was, like, walking the next day" UGH. There are different surgeries? Seriously, why do you care so much, what other people think? I think you misunderstand. It is not that i care what they think. It is that they are very much taken aback by the idea that I need a toprope. (because of what they think) sighs.... Ok, so why do you care so much, 'that they are very much taken aback by the idea that (you) need a toprope'? Because it changes who I can go climbing with. Because not everyone is O.K. with the idea of me toproping what they are planning on doing for the weekend. So they are totally fine with the idea of us climbing together when they assume that i would be climbing my own routes, and they would be working on what they want to work on. But when I mention toproping they go, uh, well.. I don't know... Which makes sense, because they are planning to climb stuff that would be really hard for me to toprope. So they are either faced with the possibility of belaying me for a long time on a climb that I have no business being on, in the first place, or setting up routes they weren't planning on doing, just so I could climb them. If I persist, they will probably do it, but it is am imposition. And I understand, which is why I feel weird asking. It is a side effect of living far away from climbable rocks, having a small group of climbers, and only having limited amount of time to climb. When you can go climbing any day, it's not that big a deal to alter plans for a friend for one day. When it is a regular climbing partner that you like and you are invested in, it is not a big deal to alter plans, because, well, you probably have a long history of give-and-take. But believe it or not, the majority of climbers around here are already done for the season! So the group of likely partners is even smaller than usual.
You have sum fucked up climbing partners.
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:39 AM
Post #103920 of 105309
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tripperjm wrote: lena_chita wrote: tripperjm wrote: lena_chita wrote: tripperjm wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Weke end report! Finally got my flatirons on, climbed the third on Saturday (in costume) and all 10 pitches of the first on Sunday. The first has the scariest 5.0 traverse, it was super fun. Now I want to go back and lead all 8 pitches on the third for bragging rights. In general I'm trying to lead more, I'm pretty much lead only in the gym and I'm easing into easy stuff outside. I just feel like such a leech when I ask someone to go climbing and don't lead anything myself, especially since it's all mental. Butterfly wings were cool. Badass flutter-by! And no, you are not a leech, even if you decide not to lead ever, but I am not good at pep talk right now, bc this is exactly how I feel at the moment. I was all cool with Ed setting up TRs for me, but now that he is out of commission again, it feels really weird to ask people... Nathan is generally pretty good with me. If he thinks I'll have problems with a route on lead he'll often let me TR it (assuming it's not a steep route or something like that). But if it's not a good route he'll just strip the draws and we'll move onto the next one. He hates belaying me if I'll be dogging on TR though, so I won't get this kind of service on anything harder than mid 5.11. Nothing wrong with TRing though. It's only a problem if you're getting people to climb things they don't really want to so you can TR it. I've been with people like that and it's irritating. In your case, Lena, if I were climbing with you I'd assume you'd want to TR. When you have an injury it's nice to know you can just let go if you find a move that bothers you. Yup. That's exactly how I was climbing the Rocktoberfedt weekend, letting go as soon as I got to a move that seemed like it would require something funky for the knee. But see, unless people are close to me, they don't really know/think about it. It's like, oh, yeah, you had surgery? It was some time ago, wasn't it? You gotta be all recovered now, right? LOL, god knows it feels like forever ago. But it has been only a few weeks since I started walking, and I still have a lot of "you are not allowed to do XYZ until at least December" warnings. I've gotten a bunch of random things from people like "My brother-in-laws second cousin had knee surgery, and he was, like, walking the next day" UGH. There are different surgeries? Seriously, why do you care so much, what other people think? I think you misunderstand. It is not that i care what they think. It is that they are very much taken aback by the idea that I need a toprope. (because of what they think) sighs.... Ok, so why do you care so much, 'that they are very much taken aback by the idea that (you) need a toprope'? Because it changes who I can go climbing with. Because not everyone is O.K. with the idea of me toproping what they are planning on doing for the weekend. So they are totally fine with the idea of us climbing together when they assume that i would be climbing my own routes, and they would be working on what they want to work on. But when I mention toproping they go, uh, well.. I don't know... Which makes sense, because they are planning to climb stuff that would be really hard for me to toprope. So they are either faced with the possibility of belaying me for a long time on a climb that I have no business being on, in the first place, or setting up routes they weren't planning on doing, just so I could climb them. If I persist, they will probably do it, but it is am imposition. And I understand, which is why I feel weird asking. It is a side effect of living far away from climbable rocks, having a small group of climbers, and only having limited amount of time to climb. When you can go climbing any day, it's not that big a deal to alter plans for a friend for one day. When it is a regular climbing partner that you like and you are invested in, it is not a big deal to alter plans, because, well, you probably have a long history of give-and-take. But believe it or not, the majority of climbers around here are already done for the season! So the group of likely partners is even smaller than usual. hummm..... Sounds like your climbing partners are not so much like friends but more like casual acquaintances with no real interest in you. Cause, friends don't do friends like that.
Moar eloquently put. But long story short...
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:41 AM
Post #103921 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: Why don't I climb with my friends? Because my friends quit climbing so now I climb with you guys.
#12?
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:42 AM
Post #103922 of 105309
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curt wrote: tripperjm wrote: lena_chita wrote: tripperjm wrote: lena_chita wrote: tripperjm wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Weke end report! Finally got my flatirons on, climbed the third on Saturday (in costume) and all 10 pitches of the first on Sunday. The first has the scariest 5.0 traverse, it was super fun. Now I want to go back and lead all 8 pitches on the third for bragging rights. In general I'm trying to lead more, I'm pretty much lead only in the gym and I'm easing into easy stuff outside. I just feel like such a leech when I ask someone to go climbing and don't lead anything myself, especially since it's all mental. Butterfly wings were cool. Badass flutter-by! And no, you are not a leech, even if you decide not to lead ever, but I am not good at pep talk right now, bc this is exactly how I feel at the moment. I was all cool with Ed setting up TRs for me, but now that he is out of commission again, it feels really weird to ask people... Nathan is generally pretty good with me. If he thinks I'll have problems with a route on lead he'll often let me TR it (assuming it's not a steep route or something like that). But if it's not a good route he'll just strip the draws and we'll move onto the next one. He hates belaying me if I'll be dogging on TR though, so I won't get this kind of service on anything harder than mid 5.11. Nothing wrong with TRing though. It's only a problem if you're getting people to climb things they don't really want to so you can TR it. I've been with people like that and it's irritating. In your case, Lena, if I were climbing with you I'd assume you'd want to TR. When you have an injury it's nice to know you can just let go if you find a move that bothers you. Yup. That's exactly how I was climbing the Rocktoberfedt weekend, letting go as soon as I got to a move that seemed like it would require something funky for the knee. But see, unless people are close to me, they don't really know/think about it. It's like, oh, yeah, you had surgery? It was some time ago, wasn't it? You gotta be all recovered now, right? LOL, god knows it feels like forever ago. But it has been only a few weeks since I started walking, and I still have a lot of "you are not allowed to do XYZ until at least December" warnings. I've gotten a bunch of random things from people like "My brother-in-laws second cousin had knee surgery, and he was, like, walking the next day" UGH. There are different surgeries? Seriously, why do you care so much, what other people think? I think you misunderstand. It is not that i care what they think. It is that they are very much taken aback by the idea that I need a toprope. (because of what they think) sighs.... Ok, so why do you care so much, 'that they are very much taken aback by the idea that (you) need a toprope'? Because it changes who I can go climbing with. Because not everyone is O.K. with the idea of me toproping what they are planning on doing for the weekend. So they are totally fine with the idea of us climbing together when they assume that i would be climbing my own routes, and they would be working on what they want to work on. But when I mention toproping they go, uh, well.. I don't know... Which makes sense, because they are planning to climb stuff that would be really hard for me to toprope. So they are either faced with the possibility of belaying me for a long time on a climb that I have no business being on, in the first place, or setting up routes they weren't planning on doing, just so I could climb them. If I persist, they will probably do it, but it is am imposition. And I understand, which is why I feel weird asking. It is a side effect of living far away from climbable rocks, having a small group of climbers, and only having limited amount of time to climb. When you can go climbing any day, it's not that big a deal to alter plans for a friend for one day. When it is a regular climbing partner that you like and you are invested in, it is not a big deal to alter plans, because, well, you probably have a long history of give-and-take. But believe it or not, the majority of climbers around here are already done for the season! So the group of likely partners is even smaller than usual. hummm..... Sounds like your climbing partners are not so much like friends but more like casual acquaintances with no real interest in you. Cause, friends don't do friends like that. +1, No ball cupping intended. Curt
And yet you did.
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:44 AM
Post #103923 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: I got to TRope Dirty Smelly Hippie. Twice. Except for the parts that I couldn't do. There were a few of them, but we won't mention it. I only grabbed one draw. So, practically onzight? Today was really weird. There were no people on ANY of the climbs to the left of Whipstocking. I mean, NONE. All day. But every climb to the right of it had a steady traffic. Bizarre!
Someone poo-monstered teh base of teh crag?
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:53 AM
Post #103924 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: epoch wrote: tripperjm wrote: cracklover wrote: carabiner96 wrote: kachoong wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Ugh, and then my dad got all emotional last night about how he hates the thought of me being so far away and I'll miss my baby brothers growing up... Gar. Sounds like emotional blackmail, whether it's unintentional or not. Your life is your life and it's not like you're gonna be deep in the Congo jungle. How long of a travel is it to see each other? I got that a few times in my travels from the family... it's a way of them trying to deal with the concept. It's not a bad flight, but I don't come from a flying family. I'm also the eldest, so this is the first time they have to deal with someone leaving the nest. So... five years later, after all the climbing you've been doing, the contacts you've made, and all that leading up to winning the international comp.... What do you say? Was it all worth it? What do you think your folks would say? Worth it for them? GO Sum sort ov GU? A poor gU? the original post was from 2009. Hey, give the guy credit, he is reading the entire thread! a notion some others might consider Maybe I have? If I read it and mention it, I'll get a dressing-down from epoch and jack. if I read it and don't mention it, I will continue getting flack for not reading it. Those who carez can guess at what I did.
With teh way you spray this thread wood be twice as long if you had started at page won.
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climbingtrash
Dec 5, 2014, 12:56 AM
Post #103925 of 105309
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curt wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: tripperjm wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and brief addendum to the Gunks report: ran into Mike, the slightly crazy older dude who we ran into solo-TRing at Lost City a few years back (snupe and Donny, right?). He's still strong as hell, lapping the one two face climbs all day. Sounded a bit down, as he had just had shoulder surgery and was Getting Back Into It, and his mom had just passed away. Still, I hope when I'm in my late 50s I can say forlornly, "yeah, I'm just a 5.12 climber now days." hummmm..... So nau ewe wunts to be me? Sorry eye has to be teh won. to break teh newz to ewe..... Knot likely to happen. Course, being in teh unique position of been there, done that, seen it awl and still living teh nightmare, eye can give ewe sum valuable insights on your more likey future. If history is any lesson.... much like most climbers, you will give up on yourself sooner than later and quit climbing. You will plant yourself on the couch, get fat, sign up a stupid topos acct and bore us awl to death with stupid stories about how bitchin you think you were, way back when, while you sit around drunk waiting to die. Still, in your particular case, broken down, grumpy old campground nazi host, tooling around in a rusty pick up yelling out the window at the future of climbing to get off your lawn is a likely component. However, if you do some how manage to dodge the bullet and make it to a ripe old age and can still get up a moderately difficult route.... Your body will be wracked with pain, even hiking to the crag without a cane will not possible, sending your own difficult routes a distant dream and most of your friends..... Will have died. And of course, you will be bat shit crazy and addicted to pain medication. Getting old ain't pretty. It's best to avoid it and go out on a high note. So, I recomend, walking in to traffic or shooting yourself in teh fase before you become just another victim of a severe beatdown on an old man's routes in teh hole. Best of luck, however it turns out Probably will shoot myself in the face, but only after checking out yore routes. I'm getting really psyched for the trip out West. Can't remember if I've bitched about this, but this year of tard climbing in the head down, ass out gullies has made me weaker physically even though my head is in the best place it's evar been. Think I might start "getting back into it" on the spurt and boulders this winter. I heard you got pink eye once too. I witnessed that. It was an early clamhead trip. Curt
sounds kinky.
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