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i_h8_choss
Oct 14, 2009, 6:38 PM
Post #26 of 88
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Mythos = crap crack climbing moccasins Testerosas = edge off a tiny pimple believe me, Ive worn both
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bill413
Oct 14, 2009, 6:51 PM
Post #27 of 88
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shimanilami wrote: I just want someone to listen to me, to tell me that everything is going to be OK and that I am not alone in this cruel world. I'm logging off now, guys. I need some time to myself. Well, we can listen. We can tell you that you're not alone. As for the rest.... Dingus - enjoyed the explanation.
(This post was edited by bill413 on Oct 14, 2009, 6:51 PM)
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csproul
Oct 14, 2009, 6:55 PM
Post #28 of 88
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TarHeelEMT wrote: ryanb wrote: I know people who wear 12.5 street and 42 in mythos. Those shoes suck ass unless you wear them so tight they stop feeling like floppy socks with slippery rubber on em. They're pretty much the trad shoe of choice in North Carolina. I have no use for an uncomfortable shoe for short sport routes. I would comepletely disagree with this. I used mythos for years and did when I arrived in NC. I now find them to be nearly useless for everything except slab (good at Stone mtn and Laurel Knob), long moderate alpine climbs (none in NC), and maybe hand sized cracks (very few in NC). There is so much steep face climbing in NC that I now hardly use my Mythos and almost exclusively use shoes that are more suited to sport climbing. I am currently using a pair of Acopa Spectres and a pair of Muira velcros, neither of which are uncomfortable. BTW, I had the opposite problem. My street shoe is a 40/41, and I own Mythos in 37-39,; tight for more technical climbing and loose for all day alpine climbing. REI didn't have any that small.
(This post was edited by csproul on Oct 14, 2009, 6:58 PM)
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cracklover
Oct 14, 2009, 7:19 PM
Post #29 of 88
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Dingus, I enjoyed your thoughts on outdoor soft goods retail! You clearly know a thing or two! The other day I was in an REI - my Chacos had finally given up the ghost, and I needed a new pair, and had a gift card from REI. So anyway, they had a size up from the one I wear, and a size down. I tried them both, hoping one would work, but no luck. The clerk shook his head - there was nothing more he could do. I was about to mosey on, when I noticed a pair of Chacos sitting there, two seats over. Lo and behold, those neglected shoes were exactly my size. REI got my $85 (minus the $$ on the gift card that day) after all. GO
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TarHeelEMT
Oct 14, 2009, 7:27 PM
Post #30 of 88
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Dingus, I get that they might not want to stock it as a regular thing in their stores, but it's a different matter entirely for the company to say that if it's above a size 45, they'll buy it for you but won't let you apply their sale discounts, dividends, or anything else.
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TarHeelEMT
Oct 14, 2009, 7:30 PM
Post #31 of 88
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csproul - it's a matter of preference, I guess. I'm in the part of the state where most of your climbing is done either at Stone Mountain or Moore's Wall. A comfortable shoe that's good for smearing and hand-sized cracks is pretty good for those two. When I go farther west, it's for longer routes like at Carolina Wall or the Nose. Most of the folks I know climb in Mythos with glowing reviews.
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cypher1313
Oct 14, 2009, 7:50 PM
Post #32 of 88
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glahhg wrote: just get what you want at moosejaw, 15% off, no tax, free shipping, 5% back in "rewards points", 5% cash back through ebates +1 <3 moosejaw!
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dingus
Oct 14, 2009, 8:00 PM
Post #33 of 88
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TarHeelEMT wrote: Dingus, I get that they might not want to stock it as a regular thing in their stores, but it's a different matter entirely for the company to say that if it's above a size 45, they'll buy it for you but won't let you apply their sale discounts, dividends, or anything else. Good point. But do keep in mind REI won't get anywhere close to the same gross margin on a customer order of 1 pair vs, the 10,000-pair seasonal buy. Why would a retailer want to discount a special-order to begin with? They would make even less money and perhaps take a loss. Sale discounts in apparel are typically designed to move non-selling merchandise out the door, or are funded by suppliers who want to move product out THEIR DOORS. Outdoor apparel retailers typically do not fund their season lead-in sales - the suppliers do this by reducing cost with an agreement that the retailer will also reduce sale price - presto, seasonal sale designed to sell more Marmot than Arc Teryx for example. The retailes fund their season-ender sales but again, the purpose of this is tpo get rid of unsold merchadise to free up warehouse and store space for items that do sell at full price. Full price sell thru.. very important concept to leading apparel retailers. One almost-guaranteed full price sell thru is customer special orders. All retailers vary of course. But when you compare best in class performers you'll see similar management tactics. Don't get me started on grocery... DMT
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charley
Oct 14, 2009, 8:00 PM
Post #34 of 88
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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dingus wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: How in the heck can one of the world's largest outdoor stores make the decision not to stock the full range of one of the world's most popular climbing shoes? Yes how can they do that? Well, with item movement information, for starters. They have software to analyze the sales performance of clothing goods sold in the past. They rely on that information to make inteligent guesses about next season's stock. The apparel industry is TOUGH. See you gotta buy next summer's clothing and shoe lines between now and Christmas, to get them built and delivered to your stores on time. How many size 12.5 canoes, er, Mythos, will be needed in Phoenix next summer? Sacramento? Philadelphia? Will the weather have an impact on sales? The average apparel retailer, even the highest end retailers, sell typically less than 50% of their top line merchandise at full list retail price. For a given range of clothing (size range) the bell curve serves well. The bulk of the sales will be in the 'money sizes' of the curve. The outliers do not make any money at all, strictly loss leader. Then the markdowns begin. A lot of retailers will mark down goods once, twice or even three times. Others mark down once and then sell any remaining goods to companies like SierraTradingPost, reasoning that its cheaper in the long run to just get rid of unsold merch than to store it (Cost of storage and capital locked up in merchandise is STAGGERING) Shoes present a particularly challenging retail environment. Shoe retailers order a range of shoes for a given style and then allocate the order to their various stores. After a month of sales what they end up with are fractured bell curves all over their enterprise, fractured ranges. Do they just mark them down and push them out the front door? Some do. Do they try to consolidate all the broken and unsellable ranges from all stores into complete ranges into the stores that DO sell them? Some do that too. Depends on the cost of goods and the cost of moving them around. Good retailers analyze all this information before deciding what to do. Just *finding* an unsold pair of shoes, in the back room of the typical shoe selling store or area? If you've never tried it.... ask if you can go back into the stock room with your sales clerk some time, just so you know what they have to go through (only SOME shoe clerks are smoking pot when they claim to be looking for your shoes, the rest are simply lost). Now REI is among the better run outdoor apparel retailers, I shit you not. They DO analyze movement data and they don't stock shit for simple bragging rights. They stock it to sell it and get a return on their owners' investments (us!) DMT Don't confuse me with facts. I just bwant what I want. This is kinda funny since I believe I remember DMT knocking rei bad one time. They pretty much lost my business when I ask them about the difference in the auto belay function between a guide and a reverso. They told me they couldn't tell me. If I didn't know how to use the device they wouldn't explain it to me. I almost told that guy what an asshole he was but bit my tongue, was polite, and got to talk to the climbing guy when he got off the little wall. He did not sound like he knew what he was talking about so I didn't buy either. I did not buy the gift card for my friends birthday that I came in for either. Screw em. I'll shop elsewhere.
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cracklover
Oct 14, 2009, 8:26 PM
Post #35 of 88
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charley wrote: Don't confuse me with facts. I just bwant what I want. This is kinda funny since I believe I remember DMT knocking rei bad one time. They pretty much lost my business when I ask them about the difference in the auto belay function between a guide and a reverso. They told me they couldn't tell me. If I didn't know how to use the device they wouldn't explain it to me. I almost told that guy what an asshole he was but bit my tongue, was polite, and got to talk to the climbing guy when he got off the little wall. He did not sound like he knew what he was talking about so I didn't buy either. I did not buy the gift card for my friends birthday that I came in for either. Screw em. I'll shop elsewhere. What a ridiculous story. You want to actually learn something from talking to an REI sales clerk? Why? If you want knowledgeable clerks, go to a local climbing store. If you want chain outdoor retail, you know where to go. No need to get disgruntled about it. GO
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dingus
Oct 14, 2009, 8:39 PM
Post #36 of 88
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charley wrote: This is kinda funny since I believe I remember DMT knocking rei bad one time. I can talk Walmart supply chain practices too. They revolutionized retail in many key areas, not the least of which was the wholesale theft of American mfg capacity to be given to the Chinese. One can admire the detail of the devil's handiwork, can't one? The key take away in this? A 10-store mom and pop dept. store chain cannot compete with Walmart. Do even try is to court bankruptcy. A 10-store mom and pop can do business by AVOIDING competition with Walmart... and many do just that. How? By understanding the foe and its business practices for starters. And then by leveraging the outliers... people like you for example. Apply that to REI... it is what it is, the largest specialty outdoor retailer in the US still addressing some climbing needs. How does a mom and pop independant compete? Well, perhaps, by offering some size Canoe Mythos, for example. But the trade off is stark.... and it comes in green $$. The root of this is the American obsession with cheap shit. DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Oct 14, 2009, 8:40 PM)
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mach2
Oct 14, 2009, 8:49 PM
Post #37 of 88
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They used to let you order the special order, return it and then get the discount when it gets inserted into the inventory. Either way when it comes to outliers, it happens with ski/snowboard boots, bike shoes, and even bikes.
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TarHeelEMT
Oct 14, 2009, 8:53 PM
Post #38 of 88
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dingus wrote: Good point. But do keep in mind REI won't get anywhere close to the same gross margin on a customer order of 1 pair vs, the 10,000-pair seasonal buy. Why would a retailer want to discount a special-order to begin with? They would make even less money and perhaps take a loss. Sale discounts in apparel are typically designed to move non-selling merchandise out the door, or are funded by suppliers who want to move product out THEIR DOORS. Outdoor apparel retailers typically do not fund their season lead-in sales - the suppliers do this by reducing cost with an agreement that the retailer will also reduce sale price - presto, seasonal sale designed to sell more Marmot than Arc Teryx for example. The retailes fund their season-ender sales but again, the purpose of this is tpo get rid of unsold merchadise to free up warehouse and store space for items that do sell at full price. Full price sell thru.. very important concept to leading apparel retailers. One almost-guaranteed full price sell thru is customer special orders. All retailers vary of course. But when you compare best in class performers you'll see similar management tactics. Don't get me started on grocery... DMT Of course they don't profit the same from a special order, but they take pretty big losses on their return policy as well. They keep doing it because that sort of customer service keeps people coming back to REI, even if they take an occasional loss from it. In my case, I feel like I got bad customer service and ended up realizing that I don't even get a cost benefit from shopping at REI over my local store. If they can't offer either service or price advantages over the little guys, then what have they got? I feel like I've got no reason to go back for anything now that I've actually taken the time to compare prices.
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potreroed
Oct 14, 2009, 8:56 PM
Post #39 of 88
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You should be writing to REI, not RC.com--not that it will do you any good!
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dingus
Oct 14, 2009, 8:58 PM
Post #40 of 88
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TarHeelEMT wrote: Of course they don't profit the same from a special order, but they take pretty big losses on their return policy as well. Do they? What sort of numbers are we talking here? How BIG are these losses exactly???
In reply to: They keep doing it because that sort of customer service keeps people coming back to REI, even if they take an occasional loss from it. If it lost them money they would not do it. Period. Suppliers play a huge role in that return policy, btw.
In reply to: In my case, I feel like I got bad customer service and ended up realizing that I don't even get a cost benefit from shopping at REI over my local store. Crack some heads and light just may creep in!
In reply to: = If they can't offer either service or price advantages over the little guys, then what have they got? Well they can't and never could offer service advantages. Sorry to break that to you. But you are right as rain - if you can't realize a price advantage by shopping at REI, then they got nothing; one trick pony. Oh and the fact that often they are the ONLY pony.
In reply to: I feel like I've got no reason to go back for anything now that I've actually taken the time to compare prices. Oh you'll be back. You're American, right? DMT
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ladyscarlett
Oct 14, 2009, 9:50 PM
Post #41 of 88
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Just so you guys don't think it's only for you bigger sizes. I can't even try on shoes at REI. Any time I've been in they don't carry ANY model in a size 4 women's. I guess it's just not the average climber's size. Damn, cause I sure feel like an average climber... That being said, there are perks. My "small feet discount" makes up for the cost of shipping the wrong fit back. But it means that REI will only get my money in other ways...their kid's shoe/sock section can be awesome! ls
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charley
Oct 14, 2009, 11:23 PM
Post #42 of 88
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cracklover wrote: charley wrote: Don't confuse me with facts. I just bwant what I want. This is kinda funny since I believe I remember DMT knocking rei bad one time. They pretty much lost my business when I ask them about the difference in the auto belay function between a guide and a reverso. They told me they couldn't tell me. If I didn't know how to use the device they wouldn't explain it to me. I almost told that guy what an asshole he was but bit my tongue, was polite, and got to talk to the climbing guy when he got off the little wall. He did not sound like he knew what he was talking about so I didn't buy either. I did not buy the gift card for my friends birthday that I came in for either. Screw em. I'll shop elsewhere. What a ridiculous story. You want to actually learn something from talking to an REI sales clerk? Why? If you want knowledgeable clerks, go to a local climbing store. If you want chain outdoor retail, you know where to go. No need to get disgruntled about it. GO I just happened to stop in rei and thought I would ask. I got my answer by asking on rc.com. I also get disgruntled easy. I also bought most of my gear from climbing shops. I don't have a local climbing shop but I stop at the ones at seneca and the nrg when there. I bought most of my rack at pburgh climbing shops, mountain dreams and exkursions.
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shimanilami
Oct 14, 2009, 11:42 PM
Post #43 of 88
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The sad thing is that REI is supposed to be a "cooperative", run for the benefit of its members. The original board of directors understood this. Unfortunately, the new board is not of the same mind. They are business people who apply the same retail practices to REI as would be applied, for example, at Wal-mart. But as a coop, one might ask, where do the profits go? Towards new REI stores that, it is argued, recruit and serve new members. And if "old" members - i.e. the ones the founders were most interested in serving - get screwed, so be it. At any rate, I just saw a 20% off coupon for Backcountry.com on the New Hot Deals thread. They are shipping a pair of Galileos directly to my house for free. Suck on that, REI.
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TarHeelEMT
Oct 15, 2009, 12:47 AM
Post #44 of 88
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dingus wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: Of course they don't profit the same from a special order, but they take pretty big losses on their return policy as well. Do they? What sort of numbers are we talking here? How BIG are these losses exactly??? In reply to: They keep doing it because that sort of customer service keeps people coming back to REI, even if they take an occasional loss from it. If it lost them money they would not do it. Period. Suppliers play a huge role in that return policy, btw. On the whole they know that that service will make them money because it will keep people coming back to REI. I never claimed that it lost them money on the whole. Saying they took "big losses" was poor wording. On the whole, they're going to lose a pretty good chunk of change from it, but they do it because that service leads to a net profit from return business... Sort of like honoring an advertised discount for a product that you carry but have to special order a particular size.
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dingus
Oct 15, 2009, 12:53 AM
Post #45 of 88
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TarHeelEMT wrote: On the whole, they're going to lose a pretty good chunk of change from it, but they do it because that service leads to a net profit from return business... So are they losing a good chunk of change or making one? Cheers! DMT
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TarHeelEMT
Oct 15, 2009, 12:54 AM
Post #46 of 88
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dingus wrote: In reply to: In my case, I feel like I got bad customer service and ended up realizing that I don't even get a cost benefit from shopping at REI over my local store. Crack some heads and light just may creep in! In reply to: = If they can't offer either service or price advantages over the little guys, then what have they got? Well they can't and never could offer service advantages. Sorry to break that to you. But you are right as rain - if you can't realize a price advantage by shopping at REI, then they got nothing; one trick pony. Oh and the fact that often they are the ONLY pony. In reply to: I feel like I've got no reason to go back for anything now that I've actually taken the time to compare prices. Oh you'll be back. You're American, right? DMT I feel that the return policy was definitely a service advantage, but you're right - on the whole they never had service nearly as good as the little guys. I also don't see how it's worth cracking their skulls over just to get them to give me the same price as the little guy is willing to do for no hassle. Screw 'em. I won't be back. I have no use for them so long as my local store is around for gear and I can pro-deal clothing. And then I'll go to EMS, who have given me nothing but exceptional service even through their website.
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TarHeelEMT
Oct 15, 2009, 12:57 AM
Post #47 of 88
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dingus wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: On the whole, they're going to lose a pretty good chunk of change from it, but they do it because that service leads to a net profit from return business... So are they losing a good chunk of change or making one? Cheers! DMT Gross, losing. Net, gaining. I never claimed otherwise. I was using it to illustrate that things like honoring a discount where you might take a small loss lead to a net gain from return business.
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healyje
Oct 15, 2009, 12:58 AM
Post #48 of 88
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Oh, did you mistake REI for a retailer that gives a damn about climbing any more? Now isn't that just silly.
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photoguy190
Oct 15, 2009, 1:13 AM
Post #49 of 88
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Wow I have never gotten good service at EMS, they never had any climbing gear and never have had any one that knew what they were doing. I once got 100 feet of webbing there, and the guy that helped me, also daisy chained it for me. He didn't double it over or anything, it was still 60 feet long. He had to give me the biggest bag they had and it took him like 20 minutes to do it. It made me laugh. I've found most stores that aren't in a climbing town, to know nothing and have nothing. Look where most REI or EMS are located. That said I like going to REI not because of the great service, but because I can see and hold several different jackets, stove ect. I like to feel the quality or lack there of. Honestly many times REI has been the closest store to me and that was still and hour drive, so on line it is. Yet if I'm wondering about few big purchases I'll make the drive to look at them. Maybe if the their not bad priced I'll buy it there. I have to wonder too how many online stores didn't have the shoe size I was looking for not to mention on sale. Some times its just hard to buy what we really want on sale.
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irregularpanda
Oct 15, 2009, 1:43 AM
Post #50 of 88
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shimanilami wrote: I was looking forward to using my 20% off coupon on a new pair of Galileos, but they don't carry them any longer. Their shoe selection sucks balls right now. WTF happened? The economy. They stopped carrying miuras also. Mythos, miuras....twoof the best climbing shoe designs in, ever.
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