I was reading this article today:http://www.climbing.com/...ue_-_heels_of_steel/

And this picture struck me odd.

Wouldn't you want your center of gravity over your feet and not behind them? I think the picture is exaggerating the technique. I mean, i get what they are saying about leaning back and stuff, but that picture just seems wrong.

Please enlighten me, i know you will.

when it is a matter of friction (as is the case with slab climbing), you want as much surface area contact as possible. Sitting back like that helps create more contact between your shoes and the rock (to a degree.)

It appears that you have answered your own question in your post. If you look at your picture, that guy is falling off. It is exagerated to make a point of increasing surface area as much as possible with your feet.
That picture looks a lot like "your buddie" Mike as he was peeling ropeless off of "Grab Your Balls."

I was reading this article today:http://www.climbing.com/...ue_-_heels_of_steel/

And this picture struck me odd. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=4400;[/image]

Wouldn't you want your center of gravity over your feet and not behind them? I think the picture is exaggerating the technique. I mean, i get what they are saying about leaning back and stuff, but that picture just seems wrong.

Please enlighten me, i know you will.

It appears that you have answered your own question in your post. If you look at your picture, that guy is falling off. It is exagerated to make a point of increasing surface area as much as possible with your feet.
That picture looks a lot like "your buddie" Mike as he was peeling ropeless off of "Grab Your Balls."

slab climbers dont wear shorts.

its just an artists rendering, that does not look like he spent a long time on, and its really hard to portray a gesture like slab climbing in a quick drawing.

One observation: The general idea is not to maximize the contact surface area (feet vs. rock) but the normal (=perpendicular) contact force (friction happens to be independent of the surface area). Therefore, if you lean backwards as in the picture, you press with your feet to the rock much harder and much more perpendicular. As a negative side effect, your arms are under more stress.
In my opinion, the rule of the thumb on o slab or vertical rock is: if you have good feet and poor hands, stand straight up wih your weight above your feet (unlike in the picture). If you have poor or no feet and relatively good hands, lean backwards and stand somewhat as in the picture. A minor drawback is that 90% of time you have poor feet and poor hands.

slab climbers dont wear shorts.

I thought you were bragging about climbing 5.12 Shouldn't you have figured this out already?

One observation: The general idea is not to maximize the contact surface area (feet vs. rock) but the normal (=perpendicular) contact force (friction happens to be independent of the surface area). Therefore, if you lean backwards as in the picture, you press with your feet to the rock much harder and much more perpendicular. As a negative side effect, your arms are under more stress.
In my opinion, the rule of the thumb on o slab or vertical rock is: if you have good feet and poor hands, stand straight up wih your weight above your feet (unlike in the picture). If you have poor or no feet and relatively good hands, lean backwards and stand somewhat as in the picture. A minor drawback is that 90% of time you have poor feet and poor hands.

This is a very common misconception. It's taught that way in high school physics but friction in real life is actually dependent on surface area, a long with a number of other variables that usually get generalized out. The position increases the normal force and the surface area, leading to a higher static friction.

Some slab climbing pics on Gaz Marshall's blog: http://gaz-softrock.blogspot.com/2009/06/firestone.html

And the solo theme fits perfectly as well

Why wasn't this quoted yet? Best explanation I've seen so far...

Obviously you've missed his other threads....

Obviously you've missed his other threads....

I'll grant that this one is tame in comparison to the others, but I think Jaablink is correct in calling CP out as a troll.

If you read the OP there's a hint of troll with the
. It's subtle but present, and his responses since then have been quite trollish.

Then there's the freesolo clusterfuck thread, the DIY pink anodized grigri thread, various trolling posts in other threads...

But let's give him the benefit of the doubt and assume he's not a troll. In that case he's either deranged and/or an idiot, so perhaps it's kinder to simply label him a troll.

First, you don’t know shit about climbing , you may think you do, but....… last time you spouted your mouth off to me, I invited you up to the Gunks to join our group and see if you had a set or if you were all talk. Imagine my surprise and disappointment when you did not show…We probably would have picked on you and gotten a laugh or two at your expense, but we would have made it up to you with some beer back at the cabin…

In your last post , that mouth and adolescent attitude got your family dragged into it. In the end the bigger man removed the photo, and you were lucky if you ask me… you just don’t know when to stfu…. I am certain that big mouth had a lot to do with your arrest as well. It will no doubt be the cause of future closures and access issues in your area too. you still have not learned any lessons.

You are obviously a much more advanced climber than the rest of us to be able to find errors in others climbing technique. Sorry I doubted you oh mighty slab master.

I'm not gonna drive 12 hours just to meet up with some retarded foreigner talking shit on the internet... I'm so sorry i couldn't join you...

Oh the "bigger" man removed the photo only after like ten people told him he was a fucking douche bag, i dont think that makes him the bigger man...

I'm sorry i asked a legitimite question about slab technique, and i asked for your almighty input to see if I was remotely correct... Obviously i was, so you stfu.

Pittsburg to the Gunks is only 6 hours not 12. You are lying again…

He is a much bigger man than you give him credit for… I would have sent the link to your uncle, the media, and the prosecution - with no warning to you. With all the people you pissed off. Maybe some user already did….

You cried wolf too many times in the near past. That fucking mouth of yours has gotten you into some shit already. Do you think it wise to keep running it?

Yep i'm an idiot and a troll.

I said "please enlighten me, i know you will", because i know geek balls like yourself are sure to say something stupid. OooOo your a mod, your cool.

fuck dude, take a chill pill!!! you would have turned CP into "dad", you would have called "mommie" on him? you guys are a bunch of fuckin' haters!! maybe it's because it's winter back east and nobody gets to actually climb slab this time of year?

another off topic rcc pissing contest. ::yawn::
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anyone take any good slab whippers? what caused it? how did it go?

any other good slab climbing tales from the wild side...?

I did not say I did, I said some user may already have. Or at least should have. But you know that may not be a bad idea, thanks for coming up with it. Good thinking. I hope some user calls his mommy and daddy, I mean he is still a child after all… and - act like a child , be treated like a child… same as - act like a criminal , you be treated like one… He brought his family into that last thread. His uncle probably went to school for 10 years and worked his ass off. But shit why not use your uncle to try to intimidate another user, posting all this on public forum I might add. He made physical threats to other users that had to be removed. Then he got his way and the photo was removed. Now instead of being thankful, he still found a way to justify himself and his erroneous actions. He never really learned anything because he has a shield from reality, a safety line, a rope…, weather it is his parents dealing with his mess, the moderators cleaning up his mess, or people like you defending him.

There is an actual person on the other side of the forum conversation. Everyone does not always see things the way CP views them, and that is something that he should understand before spouting his mouth off. If you wont say it to someone face. You should not say it to someone online. His actions can very easily have real world consequences with no warning .

It would not be me. I am more of the say nothing, then tear off your head and shit down your throat kind of guy, but that is just me… There a lot of people out there who would sooner compound his situation to teach a moral lesson. You never know what you are going to get….

i'm no CP apologist, i just don't tattle to the man, even on my enemies. peace,
"we are all brothes an sisters...."

As far as CP goes.If you went to school for 10 years and worked your ass off building a good reputation. Then some relative you probably don’t even know well ,used your good name in an attempt to intimidate someone else.

Not too long ago, I remember reading a warning here. Someone was using climbing guidebooks to target and burglarize vehicles for rock gear. I would consider that guy an enemy. According to your statement, this person should have been allowed to continue doing what he was doing . Even if you know his identity you would not say anything to anyone...


As far as CP goes.If you went to school for 10 years and worked your ass off building a good reputation. Then some relative you probably don’t even know well ,used your good name to intimidate someone else. I will add that your respected name is being used right next to illegal criminal activity .You are sure as shit right I would want to know. I would be even more upset if someone did not tell me…

My guess is you would not say anything because you are selfish and it did not affect you personally. Had it affected you, I am sure your tune would change.