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sidepull
Jun 15, 2010, 3:40 PM
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DoctorSalt wrote: Is there even any good sport in MA, short of... Farley?
Or best bouldering spot?
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edge
Jun 15, 2010, 3:56 PM
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sidepull wrote: DoctorSalt wrote: Is there even any good sport in MA, short of... Farley? Or best bouldering spot?
Although I have not been personally, I hear that Lynn Woods and Gloucester may rival or exceed Farley for bouldering.
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sonso45
Jun 15, 2010, 4:25 PM
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AZ has many areas but one in particular is a must do for trad: Cochise.
Sport climbng is very popular in Jacks Canyon but other areas abound. It is very easy to get to if driving tween Cali/Nev and the east along I-40.
Although mired in controversy, Queen Creek has a wealth of trad, sport and bouldering all within an hour or so of Phoenix.
(This post was edited by sonso45 on Jun 15, 2010, 4:25 PM)
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jh_angel
Jun 15, 2010, 5:04 PM
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edge wrote: sidepull wrote: DoctorSalt wrote: Is there even any good sport in MA, short of... Farley? Or best bouldering spot? Although I have not been personally, I hear that Lynn Woods and Gloucester may rival or exceed Farley for bouldering.
While Farley is really good for boulder (not a lot, but really high quality), the North Shore can be just as good and there is a lot more of it.
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Adayak
Jun 15, 2010, 6:06 PM
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Well Florida is my home state - nuff said.
My second home is in North Carolina though, and we have some good southeast climbing in the area. Some of the "Must climbs" can be found in Linville Gourge
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sidepull
Jun 15, 2010, 6:13 PM
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sonso45 wrote: AZ has many areas but one in particular is a must do for trad: Cochise. Sport climbng is very popular in Jacks Canyon but other areas abound. It is very easy to get to if driving tween Cali/Nev and the east along I-40. Although mired in controversy, Queen Creek has a wealth of trad, sport and bouldering all within an hour or so of Phoenix.
For bouldering, I think Priest Draw is a "must climb" area simply because it is so unique and really features classic lines in a great setting. That said, I think Groom Creek is a better area all around but there are other places like it, whereas the draw is pretty much it's own thing.
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sidepull
Jun 15, 2010, 6:14 PM
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jh_angel wrote: edge wrote: sidepull wrote: DoctorSalt wrote: Is there even any good sport in MA, short of... Farley? Or best bouldering spot? Although I have not been personally, I hear that Lynn Woods and Gloucester may rival or exceed Farley for bouldering. While Farley is really good for boulder (not a lot, but really high quality), the North Shore can be just as good and there is a lot more of it.
Links? Photos, guides, vids - anything to stoke the stoke.
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sbaclimber
Jun 15, 2010, 6:17 PM
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welle wrote: edge wrote: New Hampshire: Trad: Cathedral/Whitehorse. (Close enough together to be included as one) Sport: Rumney. Bouldering: Pawtuckaway. I personally would skip Rumney and go to Cannon. New York: Gunks and Adirondacks
Both the Gunks and 'dacks are primarily trad.
Although I have not been there yet, I have heard that Nine Corners is the NY destination for bouldering...
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kovacs69
Jun 15, 2010, 6:22 PM
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mushroom wrote: Wyoming! --Generally the climbing is very bad and your time would be better spent climbing in CO or CA or even MD. But if you had to climb something I've found these to be better-than-shitty:
Sport: Ten Sleep 800+ sport routes with room for thousands more on beautiful limestone. Get the guidebook in Ten Sleep, WY at Dirty Sally's Ice Cream Shop Bouldering: Cedar Mountain 800 (seems to be the magic number around here, eh?) boulder problems on sandstone. Get the guidebook at the Beta Coffee House in Cody, WY (across the street from the Irma Hotel patio, adjacent to Main St.). Get some beta from the owner and guidebook writer, Mike Snyder, while you're there. Trad: Terrible everywhere. enjoi!
You can't mention Wyoming without mentioning Devil's Tower or Vedauwoo. Both great places to climb. The tower boast some great if not spectactular crack climbing. Vedauwoo has hundreds routes to wet your whistle. Both of these places are classics and draw people from all over the world.
Maybe you say it is shitty so no-one will come to Wyoming??
JB
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edge
Jun 15, 2010, 6:24 PM
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sidepull wrote: jh_angel wrote: edge wrote: sidepull wrote: DoctorSalt wrote: Is there even any good sport in MA, short of... Farley? Or best bouldering spot? Although I have not been personally, I hear that Lynn Woods and Gloucester may rival or exceed Farley for bouldering. While Farley is really good for boulder (not a lot, but really high quality), the North Shore can be just as good and there is a lot more of it. Links? Photos, guides, vids - anything to stoke the stoke.
http://newenglandbouldering.com/...lawiki&Itemid=65
Lots of pics here. Search the forum for additional beta.
http://newenglandbouldering.com/...c.php?f=1&t=4750
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edge
Jun 15, 2010, 6:26 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: Although I have not been there yet, I have heard that Nine Corners is the NY destination for bouldering...
I was not all that impressed with it. Definitely some cool lines, but pales in comparison to most bouldering areas in my opinion.
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jbone
Jun 15, 2010, 6:33 PM
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sonso45 wrote: AZ has many areas but one in particular is a must do for trad: Cochise. Sport climbng is very popular in Jacks Canyon but other areas abound. It is very easy to get to if driving tween Cali/Nev and the east along I-40. Although mired in controversy, Queen Creek has a wealth of trad, sport and bouldering all within an hour or so of Phoenix.
Originally I feared what you might consider for AZ Manny, but these 3 work. One thing I noticed was how you put Cochise for Trad even though its pretty much down near Mexico yet you say Jacks for Sport basically because its near the I-40.
Just the fact that Jacks is hardcore manufactured I wouldn't put that on any list, but if I had to have droves of out of towners stock a crag I would rather it be Jacks.
Priest Draw has already been sold out so that too is a great addition to the big 3.
Personally, any of the new limestone that has been bolted in the last 10 years is considered must climb in my book as far as sport. Fortunately access doesn't allow droves to pile into those area's.
Not to replace Cochise but I would like to add another crag to the list of Must Climb Trad for AZ. You've all heard of it and when you see it its everything you hoped for, Paradise Forks.
QC has tons of climbing but none of it is MUST DO IMO. (Exception: The Totem Pole in LD)
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DoctorSalt
Jun 15, 2010, 8:51 PM
Post #63 of 102
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edge wrote: sidepull wrote: jh_angel wrote: edge wrote: sidepull wrote: DoctorSalt wrote: Is there even any good sport in MA, short of... Farley? Or best bouldering spot? Although I have not been personally, I hear that Lynn Woods and Gloucester may rival or exceed Farley for bouldering. While Farley is really good for boulder (not a lot, but really high quality), the North Shore can be just as good and there is a lot more of it. Links? Photos, guides, vids - anything to stoke the stoke. Lots of pics here. Search the forum for additional beta. http://newenglandbouldering.com/...c.php?f=1&t=4750
I'm trying to find out if theres any decent bolted routes in MA, short of 2 routes @ Quincy Quarry and I heard a couple at Farley. Any ideas?
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edge
Jun 15, 2010, 8:53 PM
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DoctorSalt wrote: I'm trying to find out if theres any decent bolted routes in MA, short of 2 routes @ Quincy Quarry and I heard a couple at Farley. Any ideas?
Check out this site.
http://westernmacc.com/joomla15/
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sonso45
Jun 15, 2010, 8:59 PM
Post #65 of 102
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Jbone, he did say "must climb" and I took it to mean a combination of convenience and quality routes. The Forks and Jacks do have a connection: I-40.
Jacks unfortunately has a stigma attached, as you pointed out, but it is more popular than the numerous quality limestone crags in the central and southern part of AZ. In part because of its easy accessibility and it has more routes in the moderate grades than the other limestone crags.
Cochise is near the border, hot now for sure so that would give the Forks and all that basalt up there the edge during the summer. I still think the number of routes and size of the crags gives Cochise an edge for trad over all areas in the state, IMHO.
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camhead
Jun 15, 2010, 9:45 PM
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sonso45 wrote: Jbone, he did say "must climb" and I took it to mean a combination of convenience and quality routes. The Forks and Jacks do have a connection: I-40. Jacks unfortunately has a stigma attached, as you pointed out, but it is more popular than the numerous quality limestone crags in the central and southern part of AZ. In part because of its easy accessibility and it has more routes in the moderate grades than the other limestone crags. Cochise is near the border, hot now for sure so that would give the Forks and all that basalt up there the edge during the summer. I still think the number of routes and size of the crags gives Cochise an edge for trad over all areas in the state, IMHO.
I agree that Cochise is far and away the most "destination" area in AZ.
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LostinMaine
Jun 15, 2010, 9:48 PM
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Maine:
For trad, I love Acadia in the off season.
Sport probably belongs to Shagg Crag.
For historic coolness factor, without a doubt it's Katahdin at Baxter State Park.
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mushroom
Jun 16, 2010, 1:12 AM
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Since you are doing all 50 states I might as well do the pile I grew up in, for the sake of your project's grade:
Maryland
1. Carder Rock - just outside DC, on the MD side of the Potomac. There's bouldering, top roping, meh.
2. Annapolis Rock - off the Appalachian trail in Frederick county. It's got some trad, but mostly it just makes sense to top rope. There are boulders.
3. Sugar Loaf Mountain - Decent top roping/trad on a conglomerate similar to what you find in the gunks.
Generally, MD climbing is nearly mediocre, but more frustrating than anything once one has been to a real climbing locale (e.g. Yosemitah, the Gunks). One is reminded with such route names as "Go West, Young Man, Go West" (5.something, some bullshit crag).
Honestly, nothing in MD must be climbed, just the climber-at-heart must get out somewhere.
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petsfed
Jun 16, 2010, 6:01 AM
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kovacs69 wrote: Maybe you say it is shitty so no-one will come to Wyoming?? JB
Gee, you think?
Honestly, Vedauwoo kind of occupies a strange place in Wyoming climbing. I mean, its one of the most crowded places in Wyoming, but mostly because its closer to Fort Collins than Lumpy Ridge. For the average visitor (so 5.9 and easier), Lumpy has a lot more to offer, simply because the routes are longer. But Vedauwoo has a lot of burly climbing, something that Lumpy lacks in similar proportion. Vedauwoo's easier routes just don't measure up in quality to its harder routes. I haven't done a thorough tour of Lumpy yet to see if that's the case there too, but seriously, I can think of only a few must-do 5.0-5.8 routes at the 'Woo, and three or four times that number of must-do 5.10s. The quality really ramps up around 5.8+ or so.
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mojede
Jun 16, 2010, 6:44 AM
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Montana:
Hellgate Canyon--sport
Gallatin Canyon--trad
Batholith--bouldering
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dbrayack
Jun 16, 2010, 12:24 PM
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Oh Jay - don't hate on Coopers Rock....I'm sitting here crying - trying to remember that you still care about me and likely just FORGOT about the place....ok I'm gonna go take some sleeping pills and get through the rest of the day.  
j_ung wrote: WV probably has two worth noting here: Seneca Rock and the New River Gorge, which includes the Meadow and Gauley Gorges. Seneca is mostly a trad destination. I include it because it's where a lot of regional folks really learned to climb in an adventurous environment. It has a long, storied history and a reputation that intimidates, and yet still draws people in droves from the surrounding major metro areas. The New is tops for single-pitch trad and sport, which you can often find living together side by side on the same crag in perfect harmony. The outstanding rock quality, variety and technical nature of much of the climbing here don't hurt either. The shear quantity of starred classics is almost overwhelming and there's still plenty of high-quality potential for those who want to explore off the beaten path. I've often said that the NRG is also the top bouldering area in the region... if people only realized it. (I'll reluctantly stop shy of calling it potentially the best on the entire east coast.) Some folks consider the high-gorge boulders to be too featured to support mass hard bouldering, but the river-side boulders are another story entirely. Sorry NC boulderers, but if the area ever sees the development it's capable of sustaining, it may rival or even beat Boone for both quality and quantity. Here's a sample: http://www.louderthan11.com/?p=925 |
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rtwilli4
Jun 16, 2010, 5:18 PM
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swoopee wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: North Carolina I was going to do a list, but I couldn't stop and ended up with 6 areas. If I had to narrow it to two, I'd say Laurel Knob is the destination in NC with Linville Gorge a close second. LK has been a secret for decades and it was actually illegal to climb there during most of it's early development. Recently the CCC made an unprecedented move and PURCHASED the cliff! Amazing work on the access front and a very cool history make this place intriguing. Then there's the climbing. It's the biggest face (1000ft) east of the Mississippi and it has dozens and dozens of routes at all grades. I think Linville Gorge is the centerpiece of the state for climbing and many activities. It is probably the wildest area of it's size in this part of the country and there is a lot of adventure to be had. Hundreds of climbs at all grades throughout the Gorge, mostly from the same access point. Loads of potential for new exploration as well. One of the most beautiful areas that I've ever climbed. Nearly all of the climbing areas in NC could be on this list. Besides great climbing, the local communities and the ethics that are upheld make the areas all wonderful. So I'm quoting myself here 'cuz I came back and read and realized that there must be a bouldering destination. I don't do much of it but bouldering has become HUGE in NC. The Boone area is the center of bouldering, but Rumbling Bald is said to be one of the classic bouldering areas of the east. The CCC has also stepped up to keep access open, and there is excellent trad climbing there as well, with some of the best cracks in the east. SO, Rumbling Bald has to be #3 on the list. Rumbling Bald is great, and I'd agree that you could probably put all NC climbing areas on the list, with Crowder's Mtn and Pilot Mtn being at the bottom, of course.
No no, I think you're confused. Pilot is at the TOP...
of the sport rappellers list (I never know how to spell that?)
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synrock
Jun 16, 2010, 6:35 PM
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ConverseClimber wrote: Pennsylvania- uhhhhhh... Haycock for bouldering. Some very awesome climbs on rock that isnt found everywhere. Diabase (which is what your climbing on) can only be found in PA and South Africa. like, what?
Ashboro NC is also a diabase area.
This is a difficult choice as the bouldering areas in PA are amazing. While haycock may have the most problems - it also has the most problems (not a summer area, bad landings, difficult navigation).
So I'd have to vote Ghost town over Haycock as a bouldering area - for the superior asthetics and amazing quality of the problems.
However.....
My vote for what is the best climbing area in PA and the one that people would have a reason to visit the state for - would be Hunter Rocks for the amazing rock quality and features. Perhaps the stickiest, coolest featured sandstone in the world.
And Hunters has something no other climbing area in the country has - quality Font Circuits (minus the red and blue paint). Because of the Dresden-like mini-towers and convoluted nature of the sandstone formation you can literally climb for hours without ever touching the ground - only stopping every once in a while on top of a tower to admire the view.
So if you are climbing addict and are comfortable soloing at around 5.8 - the hunter rock circuits have the longest continuous "fix" of fun moves on amazing rock anywhere.
Bowers
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oklahoma
Jun 17, 2010, 10:47 PM
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WY is easy. 1.) Sinks - Sport, 2.) The Winds - Trad, 3.) Devil's Tower - Trad.
Depending on who you ask and personal style you could flip 1 and 2. Devil's Tower is only 3 cause it's not open year round.
As for the other 3 I'm not sure you could narrow it down to just 3 places.
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petsfed
Jun 17, 2010, 11:44 PM
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oklahoma wrote: WY is easy. 1.) Sinks - Sport, 2.) The Winds - Trad, 3.) Devil's Tower - Trad. Depending on who you ask and personal style you could flip 1 and 2. Devil's Tower is only 3 cause it's not open year round. As for the other 3 I'm not sure you could narrow it down to just 3 places.
Actually, the June closure has never been mandatory, and frankly, its almost too hot in June anyway. Plus, since the Tower is far enough from, well, anything that planning a trip around the closure really shouldn't be that hard.
And Ten Sleep is everything that Sinks wants to be, but isn't. Given how crowded and relatively small the well developed area of the winds is, I can't really recommend it as a destination. The Winds should be a major destination, as there are millions of potential routes up there. But at the moment, its way too concentrated on the Cirque of the Towers.
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