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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2010, 7:12 PM
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One thing I've never understood was the hate for the OW's! Personally, when I'm on an OW, I usually feel very secure several grades above where that comfort level is with face climbing. When I see a nice wide crack it always gets my heart pumping in gleeful anticipation! Just get those arm/heal-toe/hand-fist whatever jams ready to go!
So why do you love or hate The OW?
Oh, and can anyone recommend some quality OW's in the Tahoe Vicinity/Yosemite areas? Or any others across the US of especially amazing quality?
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hafilax
Jun 25, 2010, 7:27 PM
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1) They require a skill-set that I don't have.
B) The sweat-to-inch-moved ratio is incredibly high.
+) I lose layers of skin in places I never knew could be used in climbing.
$) The gear is expensive.
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caughtinside
Jun 25, 2010, 7:30 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: Oh, and can anyone recommend some quality OW's in the Tahoe Vicinity/Yosemite areas? Or any others across the US of especially amazing quality?
That's a big list. Which ones have you done?
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marc801
Jun 25, 2010, 7:35 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: Oh, and can anyone recommend some quality OW's in the Tahoe Vicinity/Yosemite areas? Or any others across the US of especially amazing quality?
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 25, 2010, 7:36 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: One thing I've never understood was the hate for the OW's! Personally, when I'm on an OW, I usually feel very secure several grades above where that comfort level is with face climbing. When I see a nice wide crack it always gets my heart pumping in gleeful anticipation! Just get those arm/heal-toe/hand-fist whatever jams ready to go! So why do you love or hate The OW?
There is a reason that the abbreviation is OW. Think about it.
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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2010, 7:40 PM
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marc801 wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: Oh, and can anyone recommend some quality OW's in the Tahoe Vicinity/Yosemite areas? Or any others across the US of especially amazing quality?
LOL, Nice!
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lithiummetalman
Jun 25, 2010, 7:43 PM
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OW is like anal sex
A). Hate it and want to die
B). Love it, can't get enough of it
And who doesn't like a fisting every now and then?
Tahoe area: Eeyore's Enigma, Gods of Thunder, Fat Merchants + more
Yosemite: Badass Mama, Ahab, Generator, Midterm, Monster pitch, Chigando, Twilight Zone, Blind Faith, what the hell...check out this site:
http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/...semiteOffwidths.html
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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2010, 7:54 PM
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caughtinside wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: Oh, and can anyone recommend some quality OW's in the Tahoe Vicinity/Yosemite areas? Or any others across the US of especially amazing quality? That's a big list. Which ones have you done?
I've hit most of them at Donner Summit and the OW above the first belay on Surrealistic Pillar. I'm doing Traveler's tomorrow :D
I'll probably also do Surrealistic Direct sometime this week too. That's what, 10b? I'll probably TR it and if it feels good, I'll end up leading it. 10b is a little beyond my current reach for Trad leads, but if it feels good and protects well, why not?
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caughtinside
Jun 25, 2010, 7:56 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: caughtinside wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: Oh, and can anyone recommend some quality OW's in the Tahoe Vicinity/Yosemite areas? Or any others across the US of especially amazing quality? That's a big list. Which ones have you done? I've hit most of them at Donner Summit and the OW above the first belay on Surrealistic Pillar. I'm doing Traveler's tomorrow :D I'll probably also do Surrealistic Direct sometime this week too. That's what, 10b? I'll probably TR it and if it feels good, I'll end up leading it. 10b is a little beyond my current reach for Trad leads, but if it feels good and protects well, why not?
Neither surrealistic or the direct climb like OWs. The direct does take excellent gear and is a safe lead. Travellers will keep you honest.
Give Vanishing Point a try. Take 2 #4s.
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lithiummetalman
Jun 25, 2010, 7:59 PM
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Surrealistic Pillar is a fun climb, easy to protect, the roof section is short, and the finishing crack is fun! Not sure I'd consider it an OW though...
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thestatusquo
Jun 25, 2010, 8:01 PM
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The first two pitches of Meat Grinder (http://www.supertopo.com/...e-Cliff-Meat-Grinder) are sexy. It grinds . . . your meat. This was my first hard OW. Plus, you can set up Red Zinger (.11d) on TR.
Generator Crack is a terrible climb. The only reason you do this climb is because you have a large group of people that want to mock each other as you "climb" up this "crack".
thejoe
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billcoe_
Jun 25, 2010, 8:10 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: I've hit most of them at Donner Summit and the OW above the first belay on Surrealistic Pillar. I'm doing Traveler's tomorrow :D I'll probably also do Surrealistic Direct sometime this week too. That's what, 10b? I'll probably TR it and if it feels good, I'll end up leading it. 10b is a little beyond my current reach for Trad leads, but if it feels good and protects well, why not?
Pffft! Top rope it? Shit. Those are both easy routes. I think if we were all running around top roping wide stuff it would be fine and we'd all be jumping on the internet bragging how we like it. For myself, I never owned a piece bigger than a #4 friend until fairly recently, and walking up to both of the routes you mention, which I have done, and climbing from the ground up, is fine as they are so easy and well protected. However, once you get on a hard route where your #4 goes in and you look up at a long 5" crack with the ground further than a simple lower out, the men get separated from the boys fast. This is when I learned I was a boy and not a man anyway.
Go do that and check back in with us. That's why offwidths suck since you don't seem to know it.
Shit, now I have all kinds of wide pro and it's nothing to climb some of this crap even as a fat old guy moving a piece up with you as you struggle. Here I am doing it on a ground up FA @ 10b named Bride of Wyde. But look at the rack I have, it doesn't mean jack shit.
It's not like a mistake and you'll die. Thats why old guys have such admiration for dudes like Chuck Pratt who often just walked up to a wide crack and did ground up first ascents with little to NO pro, relying on their mind control and skill alone. Try that even once and come tell us how much you like offwidths.
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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2010, 8:11 PM
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caughtinside wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: caughtinside wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: Oh, and can anyone recommend some quality OW's in the Tahoe Vicinity/Yosemite areas? Or any others across the US of especially amazing quality? That's a big list. Which ones have you done? I've hit most of them at Donner Summit and the OW above the first belay on Surrealistic Pillar. I'm doing Traveler's tomorrow :D I'll probably also do Surrealistic Direct sometime this week too. That's what, 10b? I'll probably TR it and if it feels good, I'll end up leading it. 10b is a little beyond my current reach for Trad leads, but if it feels good and protects well, why not? Neither surrealistic or the direct climb like OWs. The direct does take excellent gear and is a safe lead. Travellers will keep you honest. Give Vanishing Point a try. Take 2 #4s.
I just checked out Vanishing Point. I had no idea that climb even exists, but from what I saw, it looks amazing! Heh, I didn't know that the direct of Surrealistic wasn't an OW, but it still looks fun so I'll be doing it. Heh, I know you can face climb the pillar, but I preferred to climb it pure OW style with yummy shoulder jams :D
Yes, I just called shoulder jams yummy.
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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2010, 8:13 PM
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thestatusquo wrote: The first two pitches of Meat Grinder ( http://www.supertopo.com/...e-Cliff-Meat-Grinder) are sexy. It grinds . . . your meat. This was my first hard OW. Plus, you can set up Red Zinger (.11d) on TR. Generator Crack is a terrible climb. The only reason you do this climb is because you have a large group of people that want to mock each other as you "climb" up this "crack". thejoe
Oh wow, Meat Grinder looks freaking sexy. I'll definitely have to do it this summer, thanks bro :)
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billcoe_
Jun 25, 2010, 8:16 PM
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ps, I got to say, love your vibe on this. I just reread my post and I come off as extremely crotchety. What I really mean to say is go get it son! Get honed and you can rope gun this stuff for me! I have the gear now:-) Maybe I'll be less of a hater then. LOL
Take care and stay upbeat!
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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2010, 8:20 PM
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billcoe_ wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: I've hit most of them at Donner Summit and the OW above the first belay on Surrealistic Pillar. I'm doing Traveler's tomorrow :D I'll probably also do Surrealistic Direct sometime this week too. That's what, 10b? I'll probably TR it and if it feels good, I'll end up leading it. 10b is a little beyond my current reach for Trad leads, but if it feels good and protects well, why not? Pffft! Top rope it? Shit. Those are both easy routes. I think if we were all running around top roping wide stuff it would be fine and we'd all be jumping on the internet bragging how we like it. For myself, I never owned a piece bigger than a #4 friend until fairly recently, and walking up to both of the routes you mention, which I have done, and climbing from the ground up, is fine as they are so easy and well protected. However, once you get on a hard route where your #4 goes in and you look up at a long 5" crack with the ground further than a simple lower out, the men get separated from the boys fast. This is when I learned I was a boy and not a man anyway. Go do that and check back in with us. That's why offwidths suck since you don't seem to know it. Shit, now I have all kinds of wide pro and it's nothing to climb some of this crap even as a fat old guy moving a piece up with you as you struggle. Here I am doing it on a ground up FA @ 10b named Bride of Wyde. But look at the rack I have, it doesn't mean jack shit. [image]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/Bride_of_Wyde_FA_near_start_of_the_wyde_2_small.jpg[/image] It's not like a mistake and you'll die. Thats why old guys have such admiration for dudes like Chuck Pratt who often just walked up to a wide crack and did ground up first ascents with little to NO pro, relying on their mind control and skill alone. Try that even once and come tell us how much you like offwidths.
Ha, why do you need pro when you have your whole body as a chock stone? ;)
With that said, I'm still learning the arts of the wide so I'll play it cautiously till I've come closer to proficiency. I'm not spraying my skill, just my love!
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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2010, 8:24 PM
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billcoe_ wrote: ps, I got to say, love your vibe on this. I just reread my post and I come off as extremely crotchety. What I really mean to say is go get it son! Get honed and you can rope gun this stuff for me! I have the gear now:-) Maybe I'll be less of a hater then. LOL Take care and stay upbeat!
Right on bro! When I've actually attained a decent level of skill, I'll borrow your gear and rope gun some of those famous sandstone OW's in Utah and RR's for you :D
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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2010, 8:28 PM
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PS, what are your favorite chimneys in the Tahoe Vicinity? I did One Hand Clapping yesterday and got made fun of (in good nature) because I ended up chimneying half of the first pitch! Those are some incredible cracks, but how can you pass up some quality chimney moves?
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caughtinside
Jun 25, 2010, 8:33 PM
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The Rat's Tooth just to the left of the first pitch of 1 hand is a really good flared squeeze. Bottomless topless on the snowshed
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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2010, 8:37 PM
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caughtinside wrote: The Rat's Tooth just to the left of the first pitch of 1 hand is a really good flared squeeze. Bottomless topless on the snowshed
Bottomless topless is on my hit list, I just haven't had a chance to do that one yet. Everyone always wants to do Ariel :p. The exit looks a little awkward and committing after spending so much time in the Chimney, but it looks hella sexy! I saw Rat's Tooth, but it can you protect it at all?
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caughtinside
Jun 25, 2010, 8:39 PM
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The rat's tooth has a handcrack in the back that takes #2s. Take 3 or 4 if you want to sew it up.
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lithiummetalman
Jun 25, 2010, 9:48 PM
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Self-Abuse at Sugarloaf is pretty fun!
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angry
Jun 26, 2010, 3:03 AM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: One thing I've never understood was the hate for the OW's! Personally, when I'm on an OW, I usually feel very secure several grades above where that comfort level is with face climbing. When I see a nice wide crack it always gets my heart pumping in gleeful anticipation! Just get those arm/heal-toe/hand-fist whatever jams ready to go! So why do you love or hate The OW? Oh, and can anyone recommend some quality OW's in the Tahoe Vicinity/Yosemite areas? Or any others across the US of especially amazing quality?
You must not be a very good climber.
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bandidopeco
Jun 26, 2010, 3:13 AM
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There aren't many OW's in Tahoe. Maybe the best at Donner is Captain Hook, over to the right of Black September. You can do an undercling traverse or go at it like an easier version of Brother from Another Planet and bat-hang across the thing (the only time the front of my calves have been sore). Be sure to bring 2 or 3 # 6s and save at least one for after the roof. Also the Labyrinth is over there, if you're into cool chimneys.
There are other OWs, one on the east face of snowshed and one at Eagle Lake cliff, although I haven't done them.
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irregularpanda
Jun 26, 2010, 3:20 AM
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bandidopeco wrote: There aren't many OW's in Tahoe. Maybe the best at Donner is Captain Hook, over to the right of Black September. You can do an undercling traverse or go at it like an easier version of Brother from Another Planet and bat-hang across the thing (the only time the front of my calves have been sore). Be sure to bring 2 or 3 # 6s and save at least one for after the roof. Also the Labyrinth is over there, if you're into cool chimneys. There are other OWs, one on the east face of snowshed and one at Eagle Lake cliff, although I haven't done them.
That's to the left of black september.
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bandidopeco
Jun 26, 2010, 4:13 AM
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no, Captain Hook's to the right of Black September, in a corner.
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