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Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon
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kovacs69


Mar 18, 2011, 2:20 PM
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Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon
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http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/42138857/ns/us_news


Rudmin


Mar 18, 2011, 2:42 PM
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Re: [kovacs69] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.


JAB


Mar 18, 2011, 3:25 PM
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Re: [Rudmin] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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And the brother didn't make it.


Partner epoch
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Mar 18, 2011, 3:36 PM
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Re: [Rudmin] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*

Though props to him for doing the absolute right thing on all counts.
    Make a detailed plan and give it to someone trustworthy.
    Do not deviate from said plan, unless you contact said trustworthy person and update them too.
    Bring some food, water, extra clothes/o'shit-kit.
    If something happens and you cannot realistically do anything, stay put.

Help will come, and this guy knew it, despite the scene below him. I'm sure that emotionally he's not doing to well.


Partner epoch
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Mar 18, 2011, 3:38 PM
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Re: [epoch] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*

Though props to him for doing the absolute right thing on all counts.
    Make a detailed plan and give it to someone trustworthy.
    Do not deviate from said plan, unless you contact said trustworthy person and update them too.
    Bring some food, water, extra clothes/o'shit-kit.
    If something happens and you cannot realistically do anything, stay put.

Help will come, and this guy knew it, despite the scene below him. I'm sure that emotionally he's not doing to well.
I wonder if he's going to get numerous book deals, product sponsorships, and a movie deal for doing the correct things?

That Aaron Rawlston guy fucked up on many accounts and look what happened to him. This guy should make much more than that....


bearbreeder


Mar 18, 2011, 3:59 PM
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Re: [kovacs69] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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stopper knot at the ends of the rope would have prevented it perhaps?


kovacs69


Mar 18, 2011, 4:03 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
stopper knot at the ends of the rope would have prevented it perhaps?

Maybe he did have a stopped knot but the rope got cut somewhere. Who knows...

JB


Rudmin


Mar 18, 2011, 4:14 PM
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Re: [kovacs69] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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It's also possible he misthreaded a rappell device somehow.


marc801


Mar 18, 2011, 4:28 PM
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Re: [epoch] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*
Why the "*cough*"?


spikeddem


Mar 18, 2011, 4:53 PM
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Re: [marc801] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
epoch wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*
Why the "*cough*"?
Because this is a climbing forum. Epoch has a thing about it.


wwalt822


Mar 18, 2011, 6:05 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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This thread should stay. As far as we know they were not using caynoneering specific techniques. That last thread from majid that got locked down was about someone who died because they had 20ft of slack in the line and jumped off relying on their brake hand, nothing really to discuss or learn from there. It would be beneficial for climbers to learn what caused this accident with the most likely reason being going off the end of one rope or misthreading.


(This post was edited by wwalt822 on Mar 18, 2011, 6:06 PM)


Gmburns2000


Mar 18, 2011, 6:13 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
marc801 wrote:
epoch wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*
Why the "*cough*"?
Because this is a climbing forum. Epoch has a thing about it.

Odd how certain people aren't jumping in to trash the OP despite it being a single link without a summary in the post...oh, that's right, this isn't Majid posting it. Sorry, my bad.

(yes, it should remain for discussion)


kovacs69


Mar 18, 2011, 6:20 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
marc801 wrote:
epoch wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*
Why the "*cough*"?
Because this is a climbing forum. Epoch has a thing about it.

Odd how certain people aren't jumping in to trash the OP despite it being a single link without a summary in the post...oh, that's right, this isn't Majid posting it. Sorry, my bad.

(yes, it should remain for discussion)

I just wanted to beat Majid at his own game just once. I will never post an accident again unless it happens to me or one of my partners.

JB


Partner epoch
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Mar 18, 2011, 6:24 PM
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Re: [wwalt822] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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wwalt822 wrote:
This thread should stay. As far as we know they were not using caynoneering specific techniques. That last thread from majid that got locked down was about someone who died because they had 20ft of slack in the line and jumped off relying on their brake hand, nothing really to discuss or learn from there. It would be beneficial for climbers to learn what caused this accident with the most likely reason being going off the end of one rope or misthreading.

No one said it was going to disappear or get locked.

Continue discussionings....


Gmburns2000


Mar 18, 2011, 6:48 PM
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Re: [kovacs69] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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kovacs69 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
marc801 wrote:
epoch wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*
Why the "*cough*"?
Because this is a climbing forum. Epoch has a thing about it.

Odd how certain people aren't jumping in to trash the OP despite it being a single link without a summary in the post...oh, that's right, this isn't Majid posting it. Sorry, my bad.

(yes, it should remain for discussion)

I just wanted to beat Majid at his own game just once. I will never post an accident again unless it happens to me or one of my partners.

JB

Just to be clear, I'm OK with your post (and Majid's, too)


majid_sabet


Mar 18, 2011, 6:51 PM
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Re: [wwalt822] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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wwalt822 wrote:
This thread should stay. As far as we know they were not using caynoneering specific techniques. That last thread from majid that got locked down was about someone who died because they had 20ft of slack in the line and jumped off relying on their brake hand, nothing really to discuss or learn from there. It would be beneficial for climbers to learn what caused this accident with the most likely reason being going off the end of one rope or misthreading.

I got this report the first day but did not to post in RC till I find out what went wrong.Rappelling in canyon even thought some people in RC think that is not part of rock climbing still shares the same gear and techniques and so far in 2011, almost five people have died from it. There are over 55 ways to get killed from rappelling and been stuck in a canyon or any remote area surly ranks the top on the list.


spikeddem


Mar 18, 2011, 6:53 PM
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Re: [epoch] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
wwalt822 wrote:
This thread should stay. As far as we know they were not using caynoneering specific techniques. That last thread from majid that got locked down was about someone who died because they had 20ft of slack in the line and jumped off relying on their brake hand, nothing really to discuss or learn from there. It would be beneficial for climbers to learn what caused this accident with the most likely reason being going off the end of one rope or misthreading.

No one said it was going to disappear or get locked.

Continue discussionings....
Popular news story. Single Link. No information.

Would Majid not have been banned?


majid_sabet


Mar 18, 2011, 6:55 PM
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Re: [kovacs69] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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kovacs69 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
marc801 wrote:
epoch wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*
Why the "*cough*"?
Because this is a climbing forum. Epoch has a thing about it.

Odd how certain people aren't jumping in to trash the OP despite it being a single link without a summary in the post...oh, that's right, this isn't Majid posting it. Sorry, my bad.

(yes, it should remain for discussion)

I just wanted to beat Majid at his own game just once. I will never post an accident again unless it happens to me or one of my partners.

JB

I knew about it the minute it was a news but wanted to be sure on what went wrong before mentioning it plus, wabitt haters can't wait till i post something then they will be either destroy it, lock it or,call the 24/hr guard to detain me for crossing my probation or some other RC violation.


Partner robdotcalm


Mar 18, 2011, 7:18 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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A detailed account of the accident can be found at
http://communique.uccs.edu/?p=3270

It appears that the rope did not quite reach the ground and one end of the rope slipped through the rappel device.

rob.calm


chadnsc


Mar 18, 2011, 7:23 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
kovacs69 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
marc801 wrote:
epoch wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*
Why the "*cough*"?
Because this is a climbing forum. Epoch has a thing about it.

Odd how certain people aren't jumping in to trash the OP despite it being a single link without a summary in the post...oh, that's right, this isn't Majid posting it. Sorry, my bad.

(yes, it should remain for discussion)

I just wanted to beat Majid at his own game just once. I will never post an accident again unless it happens to me or one of my partners.

JB

I knew about it the minute it was a news but wanted to be sure on what went wrong before mentioning it plus, wabitt haters can't wait till i post something then they will be either destroy it, lock it or,call the 24/hr guard to detain me for crossing my probation or some other RC violation.


Bullshit.


bearbreeder


Mar 18, 2011, 7:38 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
A detailed account of the accident can be found at
http://communique.uccs.edu/?p=3270

It appears that the rope did not quite reach the ground and one end of the rope slipped through the rappel device.

rob.calm

looks like stopper knots might have helped ...

good on the survivor for surviving with a level head ...

all it takes is one mistake ...


blondgecko
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Mar 18, 2011, 10:06 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
marc801 wrote:
epoch wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*
Why the "*cough*"?
Because this is a climbing forum. Epoch has a thing about it.

Odd how certain people aren't jumping in to trash the OP despite it being a single link without a summary in the post...oh, that's right, this isn't Majid posting it. Sorry, my bad.

(yes, it should remain for discussion)

This "certain person" has been away at a conference for two days, with very little spare time. I'm not a fool - if, by the time I see it, a productive thread has sprung up, I'm not going to do anything.

But seriously, is it really too much to ask of people to briefly summarize stories in this forum, rather than simply post links? If so, that's... disappointing.


Bats


Mar 18, 2011, 11:24 PM
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Re: [kovacs69] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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Wow...I feel for the survivor losing his brother, but impress on his survival skills.
I would really like to know what happen on the rappell.


Gmburns2000


Mar 18, 2011, 11:31 PM
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Re: [blondgecko] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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blondgecko wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
marc801 wrote:
epoch wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
To summarize: a canyoneer got stuck on a ledge after his brother rappelled off one end of their rope and pulled it down with him. He had some food and water and knew that after a few days the family would realize they hadn't returned.
*cough*
Why the "*cough*"?
Because this is a climbing forum. Epoch has a thing about it.

Odd how certain people aren't jumping in to trash the OP despite it being a single link without a summary in the post...oh, that's right, this isn't Majid posting it. Sorry, my bad.

(yes, it should remain for discussion)

This "certain person" has been away at a conference for two days, with very little spare time. I'm not a fool - if, by the time I see it, a productive thread has sprung up, I'm not going to do anything.

But seriously, is it really too much to ask of people to briefly summarize stories in this forum, rather than simply post links? If so, that's... disappointing.

you're not the only fool, so don't completely accept the burden so liberally.

btw - plenty of majid's threads turn into productive ones, too.


kovacs69


Mar 18, 2011, 11:43 PM
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Re: [blondgecko] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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blondgecko wrote:
This "certain person" has been away at a conference for two days, with very little spare time. I'm not a fool - if, by the time I see it, a productive thread has sprung up, I'm not going to do anything.

But seriously, is it really too much to ask of people to briefly summarize stories in this forum, rather than simply post links? If so, that's... disappointing.

This OP will endeavor to do better next time.

JB


notapplicable


Mar 19, 2011, 4:08 AM
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Re: [robdotcalm] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
A detailed account of the accident can be found at
http://communique.uccs.edu/?p=3270

It appears that the rope did not quite reach the ground and one end of the rope slipped through the rappel device.

rob.calm

OK, so they did one 40 ft. rap, followed by a 100 ft. rap and the rope was only a little short.

What I cannot figure out is how the whole rope got pulled down with the fallen person. Even if he was 10 ft. short, enough rope should not have gone through the anchor for it to "pull itself" under it's own weight.

The only thing I can think is that they were on a 50m rope.


(This post was edited by notapplicable on Mar 19, 2011, 4:09 AM)


summerprophet


Mar 19, 2011, 4:30 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
There are over 55 ways to get killed from rappelling and been stuck in a canyon or any remote area surly ranks the top on the list.
I thought hitting the ground ranked top of the list


blondgecko
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Mar 19, 2011, 4:45 AM
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Re: [notapplicable] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
robdotcalm wrote:
A detailed account of the accident can be found at
http://communique.uccs.edu/?p=3270

It appears that the rope did not quite reach the ground and one end of the rope slipped through the rappel device.

rob.calm

OK, so they did one 40 ft. rap, followed by a 100 ft. rap and the rope was only a little short.

What I cannot figure out is how the whole rope got pulled down with the fallen person. Even if he was 10 ft. short, enough rope should not have gone through the anchor for it to "pull itself" under it's own weight.

The only thing I can think is that they were on a 50m rope.

Is it possible that they'd tied independent knots in each end of the rope, and one of them came undone?


blondgecko
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Mar 19, 2011, 4:48 AM
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Re: [kovacs69] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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kovacs69 wrote:
blondgecko wrote:
This "certain person" has been away at a conference for two days, with very little spare time. I'm not a fool - if, by the time I see it, a productive thread has sprung up, I'm not going to do anything.

But seriously, is it really too much to ask of people to briefly summarize stories in this forum, rather than simply post links? If so, that's... disappointing.

This OP will endeavor to do better next time.

JB

Thank you. If only everyone was so understanding.


billl7


Mar 19, 2011, 5:03 AM
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Re: [notapplicable] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
What I cannot figure out is how the whole rope got pulled down with the fallen person. Even if he was 10 ft. short, enough rope should not have gone through the anchor for it to "pull itself" under it's own weight.

The first of the below web sites indicates that the longest rap in North Fork is 130 feet. The second indicates to bring a 60M rope and a pull cord if doing just the North Fork.

http://www.canyoneering.net/...howthread.php?t=3583
http://www.ajroadtrips.com/...rs-roost/nomans.html

It could be that their intended two raps together total 130 feet. Or, besides other possible causes already mentioned, it could be that the second rap was too long for their 200 foot rope when doubled up.

The article of the accident did specifically state that Louis found the middle of the rope and then tossed the threaded rope.

Bill L


(This post was edited by billl7 on Mar 19, 2011, 5:04 AM)


billl7


Mar 19, 2011, 5:20 AM
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Re: [billl7] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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"There were 4 Rappels, the last one being 100+ feet long ...."
source: http://www.adventureplus.org/robbersroost.htm

And, meaning no disrespect to family and friends, there is this quote "There were no rope burns on Louis's hands. His glasses were still on his face when he was found. His visage was peaceful and there was no evidence of head trauma or suffering. The official cause of death is a broken pelvis."
source: http://www.bogley.com/...66-Death-in-No-Man-s

Bill L

Edit to add: The person posting the above went on to say ... "Based on these and the other details mentioned ..., we believe that he rapped off the end of the rope fully expecting to land what he perceived to be a reasonably short jump. We also believe that the most likely cause of his fatal injury was a bad landing."


(This post was edited by billl7 on Mar 19, 2011, 5:41 AM)


majid_sabet


Mar 19, 2011, 5:27 AM
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Re: [summerprophet] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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summerprophet wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
There are over 55 ways to get killed from rappelling and been stuck in a canyon or any remote area surly ranks the top on the list.
I thought hitting the ground ranked top of the list

hitting it its easy but surviving in the canyon and without knowing how to get out is a slow kill.


moose_droppings


Mar 19, 2011, 5:41 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
wwalt822 wrote:
This thread should stay. As far as we know they were not using caynoneering specific techniques. That last thread from majid that got locked down was about someone who died because they had 20ft of slack in the line and jumped off relying on their brake hand, nothing really to discuss or learn from there. It would be beneficial for climbers to learn what caused this accident with the most likely reason being going off the end of one rope or misthreading.

I got this report the first day but did not to post in RC till I find out what went wrong.Rappelling in canyon even thought some people in RC think that is not part of rock climbing still shares the same gear and techniques and so far in 2011, almost five people have died from it. There are over 55 ways to get killed from rappelling and been stuck in a canyon or any remote area surly ranks the top on the list.

(to the tune of Paul Simon's, "50 Ways to Leave Your Lover")

There must be, 55 ways to die rappelling
You could
pass the end of your rope, Dope,
forget to anchor, Wanker,
fail to tie a knot, Scott,

They'll all set you free.

You might,
cross load a biner, Wiener,
pull a piece of pro, Joe,
rope gets the chop, Pop,

You'll then fall free.

You could
forget to tie in, Jim
not stick to your plan, Stan
not lock a gate, Pate,

A speck in the deck you'll be.


squierbypetzl
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Mar 19, 2011, 5:49 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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*Aplause/*

Sorry to hear about this incident, my condolences to those who knew him.


notapplicable


Mar 19, 2011, 4:47 PM
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Re: [billl7] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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billl7 wrote:
"There were 4 Rappels, the last one being 100+ feet long ...."
source: http://www.adventureplus.org/robbersroost.htm

And, meaning no disrespect to family and friends, there is this quote "There were no rope burns on Louis's hands. His glasses were still on his face when he was found. His visage was peaceful and there was no evidence of head trauma or suffering. The official cause of death is a broken pelvis."
source: http://www.bogley.com/...66-Death-in-No-Man-s

Bill L

Edit to add: The person posting the above went on to say ... "Based on these and the other details mentioned ..., we believe that he rapped off the end of the rope fully expecting to land what he perceived to be a reasonably short jump. We also believe that the most likely cause of his fatal injury was a bad landing."


So if the rappel was 130 ft. then that would pull enough rope through the anchor for the weight of the longer strand to overcome the friction at the anchor and pull the short side through.

If, however, the above quote is true and Louis only dropped a short distance, it still seems odd to me that the rope got pulled back through the anchor.

I'm kind of surprised that someone didn't rehang the rope to see just how short he ended up being. Seems like that would be SOP for any basic investigation in to an accident like this.


billl7


Mar 19, 2011, 6:31 PM
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Re: [notapplicable] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
So if the rappel was 130 ft. then that would pull enough rope through the anchor for the weight of the longer strand to overcome the friction at the anchor and pull the short side through.

If, however, the above quote is true and Louis only dropped a short distance, it still seems odd to me that the rope got pulled back through the anchor.

This is a stretch but perhaps the circumstances added up towards the rope eventually pulling through. A la ...

a) rope ends uneven already for the 100+ foot rap; assume the short end is already up, say 5 feet;

b) when short end slips through the ATC, Louis drops another 5 feet to the landing which raises the short end another 5 feet (now 10 feet total);

c) landing is bad and Louis falls farther down the canyon (?), dragging the short end up 10 or so more feet; maybe short end is now 20 or more feet up from the landing and 30 or more feet above the longer end; [I have no idea if the actual landing would allow for falling some greater distance.]

d) anchor point was carefully hung over the lip so perhaps not much other resistance to the imbalance than rope over rap rings (?); (Late edit: the report indicates the sling was "almost" to the edge and Louis stated fingers could get caught between the rope and the rock ... implying the rap ring was not over the lip at that point during his rap.)

That still adds up to not a huge imbalance. Still, a little rope momentum from the dynamic fall might get things going enough. And it might be interesting to know how much a free-hanging 10 mm rope can be out of balance before it reaches the tipping point.

Bill L

Edit to add: In an unexpected fall, I might grab the rope in front of me in a panic and pull it down to the ground with me ... adding a few more feet of imbalance.


(This post was edited by billl7 on Mar 19, 2011, 9:20 PM)


patto


Mar 19, 2011, 7:42 PM
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Re: [billl7] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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billl7 wrote:
That still adds up to not a huge imbalance. Still, a little rope momentum from the dynamic fall might get things going enough. And it might be interesting to know how much a free-hanging 10 mm rope can be out of balance before it reaches the tipping point.

If just looped through a single point the its not much at all. The standard 1.6x pulley factor lets you work it out. That works out to be 60% weight transferred. So you need the heavy side to be 1.666x heavier than the light side.

So for a 60m rope the tipping point is 22.5m and 37.5m. With momentum it would naturally be less.


milesenoell


Mar 19, 2011, 8:50 PM
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Re: [notapplicable] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
billl7 wrote:
"There were 4 Rappels, the last one being 100+ feet long ...."
source: http://www.adventureplus.org/robbersroost.htm

And, meaning no disrespect to family and friends, there is this quote "There were no rope burns on Louis's hands. His glasses were still on his face when he was found. His visage was peaceful and there was no evidence of head trauma or suffering. The official cause of death is a broken pelvis."
source: http://www.bogley.com/...66-Death-in-No-Man-s

Bill L

Edit to add: The person posting the above went on to say ... "Based on these and the other details mentioned ..., we believe that he rapped off the end of the rope fully expecting to land what he perceived to be a reasonably short jump. We also believe that the most likely cause of his fatal injury was a bad landing."


So if the rappel was 130 ft. then that would pull enough rope through the anchor for the weight of the longer strand to overcome the friction at the anchor and pull the short side through.

If, however, the above quote is true and Louis only dropped a short distance, it still seems odd to me that the rope got pulled back through the anchor.

I'm kind of surprised that someone didn't rehang the rope to see just how short he ended up being. Seems like that would be SOP for any basic investigation in to an accident like this.

+1

The scenario bill described sounds possible, though I'd think someone would be curious enough to test it. The other thing that occurred to me is that if it happened similar to how bill described, the rope may have started out moving slowly, and not raised suspicion until it started to to slide through faster near the end (at which point there may not have been enough time to respond).

I'm also a little confused by the quoted bit: "no evidence of head trauma or suffering. the official cause of death is a broken pelvis."

Frankly I'd think massive head trauma would be indicative of minimal suffering, not the other way around.I'd expect dying of a broken pelvis to involve a significant degree of suffering.

RIP and condolences to the family and friends.


milesenoell


Mar 19, 2011, 8:57 PM
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Re: [patto] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
billl7 wrote:
That still adds up to not a huge imbalance. Still, a little rope momentum from the dynamic fall might get things going enough. And it might be interesting to know how much a free-hanging 10 mm rope can be out of balance before it reaches the tipping point.

If just looped through a single point the its not much at all. The standard 1.6x pulley factor lets you work it out. That works out to be 60% weight transferred. So you need the heavy side to be 1.666x heavier than the light side.

So for a 60m rope the tipping point is 22.5m and 37.5m. With momentum it would naturally be less.

First off it was a rap ring not a biner, so the contact area and friction are different. Second of all your calculations don't include friction with the rock which is far from insignificant. The article even mentioned a comment made about not getting a hand stuck between the rope and the rock when going over the edge, so we have reason to believe that the rope was routed over an edge with a considerable opportunity for friction.


billl7


Mar 19, 2011, 9:01 PM
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Re: [milesenoell] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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milesenoell wrote:
I'm also a little confused by the quoted bit: "no evidence of head trauma or suffering. the official cause of death is a broken pelvis."

Frankly I'd think massive head trauma would be indicative of minimal suffering, not the other way around.I'd expect dying of a broken pelvis to involve a significant degree of suffering.

I wondered about that. Louis's partner mentioned he heard nothing from Louis after the fall despite calling for him.

I mentioned the fatality and the nature of the injuries to someone who works hospice and is familiar with complications from falls.

Without batting an eye, she said "I bet I know the cause." She went on to say the pelvis is a major bone with a lot of blood flow. A broken pelvis would bleed a lot. With bleeding comes clots. A clot to the lungs can impair breathing or to the brain can cause a serious stroke ... relatively fast-acting complications.

Just a guess. There may be folks here who are more knowledgable about the matter.

Bill L

Edit: And there was mention of an upcoming autopsy report - perhaps later there will be something concrete about this.


(This post was edited by billl7 on Mar 19, 2011, 9:02 PM)


billl7


Mar 19, 2011, 9:10 PM
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Re: [milesenoell] Climber survives for 6 days in remote Utah canyon [In reply to]
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milesenoell wrote:
... calculations don't include friction with the rock which is far from insignificant. The article even mentioned a comment made about not getting a hand stuck between the rope and the rock when going over the edge, so we have reason to believe that the rope was routed over an edge with a considerable opportunity for friction.

It was me who mentioned the possibility of a relatively free-hanging rope. Buit it does read the way you indicate. Still we won't really know the significance of friction from the rock unless someone has been there and seen the sling and how close it ran to the vertical part of the rap.

Indications are that there was not a lot of friction from rock.

Bill L


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