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onceahardman
Jul 20, 2011, 9:56 PM
Post #51 of 53
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
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In reply to: Every "burn"? You mean climbing? No way could I climb right now, with tape or without it. Even fully taped, anything more than moderate force applied with that finger makes it hurt. I'm looking for therapeutic exercises to help it. Or perhaps I've misunderstood you? It is *much* better than it was immediately after the injury, which is why I thought I could start a rehab program.
Yes, I was talking about climbing. When it is time to start climbing again, I am a fan of taping.
There really isn't anything truly research-based regarding what kind of exercises to do. There is no a muscle to strengthen, as this is essentially a ligament injury. As stated above, some light resistive work with resistance bands (rubber bands are fine) into flexion and extension, concentrically and eccentrically, are probably called for. Don't work so hard that it gets worse.
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cracklover
Sep 12, 2011, 8:06 PM
Post #52 of 53
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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cracklover wrote: johnwesely wrote: cracklover wrote: Well, nice timing on this, as I just blew my A3 pulley. GO I hope you are trolling. If by that you mean lying, nope. Nice loud pop. Slight bowstringing under (palm side) of the first finger joint. Climbing season over. Well, we'll see about the fall. Cheers, GO
Well it's been three months, and there's significant improvement.
- Metal brace no longer ever needed.
- Pain and swelling near zero unless I overdo things.
- If I overdo things slightly, a few days of icing gets things back to baseline.
- Able to put a little pressure (perhaps a pound) on the last pad with no pain, even without taping.
- Able to fully make a tight fist with no pain or "weird feeling".
- Using a tight H-taping method, able to climb up to two number grades below my pre-injury level, once or twice a week, with no problems from my finger and no setbacks.
Things I cannot do:
- Put any significant force on the last pad of that finger.
- Full crimp with that finger (or, oddly, the pinky, which seems to also be unhappy now)
- Climb harder than 5.10 without causing pain/swelling for several days.
- Climb more than 1 or 2 X per week.
- Use the finger for any activity more forceful than typing without taping it.
So this fall I will definitely be climbing again. It is a little hard to get motivated when I can't do anything that will push me much, though.
GO
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suecharles
Nov 14, 2011, 6:20 AM
Post #53 of 53
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Registered: Nov 14, 2011
Posts: 3
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you might want to look into PROLOTHERAPY... I think that is how it's spelled. good luck!
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