|
caughtinside
Oct 10, 2012, 5:46 AM
Post #93826 of 105309
(6057 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
Took a look at Blotto after the New D, but 30' of traversing undercling didn't look that appealing after the first route. We went down and pimped a few laps on Short Circuit. I did it w/o tape... which was a mistake. A little gobied up. Ran into a dude who was headed up to try for the third ascent of The Real Nose with shipoopi and PTPP.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Oct 10, 2012, 5:46 AM
Post #93827 of 105309
(6056 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Oct 10, 2012, 5:47 AM
Post #93828 of 105309
(6055 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Oct 10, 2012, 12:13 PM
Post #93829 of 105309
(6046 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: carabiner96 wrote: So, is it gross to move the toilet brush and plunger, or are those things that you toss in the dumpster and buy new when you move? we're trying to tawk abowt climbing hear. Yes. This is more climbing tawk than has been in the thread in weeks, & you have to bring up moving tawk? Oh and throw them away. American consumerist!!!! Some kid in China got lung cancer making that toilet brush!!! Disposable society!!! Feminazis!!!! (just because I've been dying to use that word, and it IS very 'real American" to use it)
I need to ask dribbles creeper facespace fiernd what the difference between a feminist Marxist and a femi-nazi is. I don't think it would have anything to do with rampant nationalism versus perceived class solidarity. And I believe Limbaugh coined 'femi-nazi.'
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Oct 10, 2012, 12:20 PM
Post #93831 of 105309
(6041 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
Gonna climb for half day, then run home & redacted before coming back to the NRG on fri. Been really shitty conditions. Cold, humid, and I ain't seen the sunshine since I don't know when. Made some great progress on the prodge yesterday though. After climbing at the rrg so much I'd forgotten how awesome it is to get atom
stimmied by individual moves, rather than just a pump.
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Oct 10, 2012, 12:47 PM
Post #93832 of 105309
(6037 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Took a look at Blotto after the New D, but 30' of traversing undercling didn't look that appealing after the first route. We went down and pimped a few laps on Short Circuit. I did it w/o tape... which was a mistake. A little gobied up. Ran into a dude who was headed up to try for the third ascent of The Real Nose with shipoopi and PTPP. Who is that Tom guy who takes the pics of el cap climbers? He had a good rant on ptpp on his site last week.
That was brought up on Ontarioclimbing.com for some public shaming.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Oct 10, 2012, 3:54 PM
Post #93833 of 105309
(6029 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Took a look at Blotto after the New D, but 30' of traversing undercling didn't look that appealing after the first route. We went down and pimped a few laps on Short Circuit. I did it w/o tape... which was a mistake. A little gobied up. Ran into a dude who was headed up to try for the third ascent of The Real Nose with shipoopi and PTPP. Who is that Tom guy who takes the pics of el cap climbers? He had a good rant on ptpp on his site last week.
ha ha. Tom Evans. He sets up on the bridge every spring and fall. I think he is a retired teacher. I know he did el cap a few times in the 80s maybe?
aka ansel evans. aka peeping tom. I don't know... he takes great photos but I think his commentary has gotten pretty stale and the bridge scene is sort of weird.
I haven't followed his site in a few seasons now but I did pop up for that haulbag tossing rant. pretty funny.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Oct 10, 2012, 3:56 PM
Post #93834 of 105309
(6028 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Took a look at Blotto after the New D, but 30' of traversing undercling didn't look that appealing after the first route. We went down and pimped a few laps on Short Circuit. I did it w/o tape... which was a mistake. A little gobied up. Ran into a dude who was headed up to try for the third ascent of The Real Nose with shipoopi and PTPP. Who is that Tom guy who takes the pics of el cap climbers? He had a good rant on ptpp on his site last week. That was brought up on Ontarioclimbing.com for some public shaming.
hah that's great. If anythign, Pete has proven to be largely immune from public shaming. You don't get a nickname like The Canadian Assassin for nothing.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Oct 10, 2012, 4:03 PM
Post #93835 of 105309
(6019 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Went to the valley. Did the New Dimensions and the Freeblast. good times. nice. how was the freeblast? Pretty cool. THe cruxes are all slab which isn't awesome but I had the other surly Will for that. He took a nice fall on an upward driven pin with a fully cracked eye at the crux. Exciting! He did the route with two falls, but freed every move. I did the frogblast and pulled through in a couple spots. the other surly Will being Will S? Was he trying to get you to belay him while he worked the rest of the Freedrider? Yeah, that Will. Nah, his plan is to work the cruxes on the mini trax. I think he may have someone lined up in like a week to try the middle part of the route, and maybe try leading the upper cruxes if they feel reasonable after some work. I was just the warmup guy. the fluffer. Yeah. I did lead a stack of five ten though. And it was nice to finally finish the New D. That thing is a ton of physical work in an acute corner for a 5 star classic. Oh yeah, funny story. We walk up saturday morning to the blast. There is a party of 3 just starting up. A party of two behind them. and us. We look up. Hanging at the first belay... is an aid party. They aided and hauled the whole freeblast. We went and did the New D. Came back Sunday am, climbed the route and caught up to them on Mammoth ledges. It seems like there are all sorts of gud rowts in yosemite that I should get around to at some point. derp. I should really go there more. THe extra hour in the car, plus no terrier, plus shitty camping, plus bear boxes... ugh. The climbing rules though. Plus the hanta has everyone running skeered. Will was saying he was there labor day weekend and it was super mellow.
yeah, it's hard for me to get fired up for all the bullshit around the climbing there, although that hantavirus could be the best thing to happen to the place. Especially if you catch it.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Oct 10, 2012, 4:05 PM
Post #93836 of 105309
(6018 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
caughtinside wrote: Took a look at Blotto after the New D, but 30' of traversing undercling didn't look that appealing after the first route. We went down and pimped a few laps on Short Circuit. I did it w/o tape... which was a mistake. A little gobied up. Ran into a dude who was headed up to try for the third ascent of The Real Nose with shipoopi and PTPP.
did they help ptpp toss teh haulbags?
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Oct 10, 2012, 4:06 PM
Post #93837 of 105309
(6017 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: Took a look at Blotto after the New D, but 30' of traversing undercling didn't look that appealing after the first route. We went down and pimped a few laps on Short Circuit. I did it w/o tape... which was a mistake. A little gobied up. Ran into a dude who was headed up to try for the third ascent of The Real Nose with shipoopi and PTPP. Who is that Tom guy who takes the pics of el cap climbers? He had a good rant on ptpp on his site last week.
GUd, kind of.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Oct 10, 2012, 4:51 PM
Post #93838 of 105309
(6012 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Took a look at Blotto after the New D, but 30' of traversing undercling didn't look that appealing after the first route. We went down and pimped a few laps on Short Circuit. I did it w/o tape... which was a mistake. A little gobied up. Ran into a dude who was headed up to try for the third ascent of The Real Nose with shipoopi and PTPP. did they help ptpp toss teh haulbags?
hah. we were razzing the other guy about it. poopie got busted in the spring for tossing a bag. allegedly no bag tossing for this climb.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 10, 2012, 5:46 PM
Post #93839 of 105309
(6008 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
camhead wrote: Gonna climb for half day, then run home & redacted before coming back to the NRG on fri. Been really shitty conditions. Cold, humid, and I ain't seen the sunshine since I don't know when. Made some great progress on the prodge yesterday though. After climbing at the rrg so much I'd forgotten how awesome it is to get atom stimmied by individual moves, rather than just a pump.
Impressive schedule!
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Oct 12, 2012, 4:03 PM
Post #93840 of 105309
(5970 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
tripperjm wrote: heh... Well, back in teh 90's, when I was busy 'single handedly distroying rock climbing in america'... naively thinking that I had left, nothing left to be distroyed... I wus rong. Awlways figured it wood be sum washed up tradie, back to relive his past a-1 dreams, that wood be unhappy about teh hole.... again, I wus rong. Seems, sum pebble wrestling loser, thinking he is teh second cumming of JB, is awl up in my ass trying to give me a shitty hand jorb.... turns owt, he doesn't like teh hole. Has a lot to say to everywon about it, but sadly lacks teh self respect or courage to just walk up to me and say it to my fase. Kid's got sum talent though.... he kin simuitaneously spray hisself down and diss me in teh same breath.... kinda brought a tear to my eye, reminded me of a young trapper jim. So my buddy is telling me teh story down in teh hole. Said teh loser wus really pissing him oft and he wunted to knock teh gays hed oft.... but his girl woodn't let him.... I just had to laugh. My friend, who was obviously still steaming mad, snaps 'What teh fuk are you laughing at?' So I said, look I noes yore still pissed, but there is know reason to defend me or teh hole. This ain't my first rodeo, I kin take teh heat. And try to remember what we are trying to accomplish.... discouraging losers from cumming down hear. A lot ov people have heard about the place and teh more bad pr we get teh less people we'll see hear. Still, who you gunna believe, sum wanta bee who has never climbed here or awl teh strongest guys in sokat that train here? Sides, this war is just getting started, you may still gets teh chance to knock this losers hed oft. Seriously though, I thought the hole gud roc vs shitty ass choss dramaz wus settled 20 years ago? Sides, Who wood have thought any self respecting bolder, wood give a rats ass whut sum washed up old man wus chuffing, down in a gaffitti covered, trash strewn. chossy shit hole? Kids theses dayz.
ewe know, I went and red that thread ... and it was a pretty unfocused non-specific complaint that did not seem targeted at teh wnsg.
|
|
|
|
|
tripperjm
Oct 12, 2012, 6:03 PM
Post #93841 of 105309
(5965 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 10650
|
snoopy138 wrote: ewe know, I went and red that thread ... and it was a pretty unfocused non-specific complaint that did not seem targeted at teh wnsg.
Sighs...
Try to pay attention next tyme?
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 15, 2012, 5:13 PM
Post #93842 of 105309
(5912 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
weke end report:
Quick summary version:
-Perfect conditions at the Red, great-feeling rock, and gerks spreading failsauce over most of it.
Longer version:
Climbed at the Shady Grove on Saturday to start, glory-sent my long-standing 5.11b Citizen's Arete project, then promptly fell on the "easy 5.10" section at the top of the 5.11c. To be fair, "easy 5.10" was described as such by 5.13-climbing mutant who has a much longer reach than me. It was a move between two 5.10 holds. They were just... umm... not where I would put them on 5.10. But camhead would be happy to know that as a result of not-reaching for those holds I took an honest 30-footer air ride.
Snoop found us there, and added some failsauce to his warmup, cover up my glory send. Then we went to the Gallery to find the rest of the Fayetteville crew.
The Fayetteville crew was tearing things up at the left side of the Gallery, onsighting everything left and right (they were not part of the failsauce group).
The Gumbyside of the Gallery was littered with gumbies, but fortunately not literally littered. It came terrifyingly close though, when the guy trying to clean Brief History of Climb on rappel couldn't reach the draws on overhanging face, and asked his partner on the ground to put him "on real belay" (instead of the firemen's belay). His partner promptly dropped both strands of the rope that he was holding on to, put one of them through the ATC, and told the rappeller guy that he was now "on belay". I freaked out, picturing the rappeller letting go of the rope, now that he was "on belay", and sliding all the way to the ground. But he kept the hand on the rope. Wheewww!
On Sunday, the Fayetteville crew headed out to long wall for some tradadventuring, and we climbed at Solar Collector. The wind kept the rock crisp and made the temperatures feel perfect. I made progress on BEHJ. Which is another way of saying that I spread more failsauce on it, to cover the weathered-out sauce from couple weeks ago. Snoop and Becs and Ed added more on other routes.
Shaun continued distancing himself from our gerky group by sending 3 5.12s in a row without rest, one of them VOS, and making it into a 10pitch day overall.
Ed and I left in the early afternoon, and drove home through the monsoon. I hope some of that rain got the remaining gerks wet, too, because I am mean that way.
the end
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Oct 15, 2012, 6:20 PM
Post #93843 of 105309
(5910 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
lena_chita wrote: weke end report: Quick summary version: -Perfect conditions at the Red, great-feeling rock, and gerks spreading failsauce over most of it. Longer version: Climbed at the Shady Grove on Saturday to start, glory-sent my long-standing 5.11b Citizen's Arete project, then promptly fell on the "easy 5.10" section at the top of the 5.11c. To be fair, "easy 5.10" was described as such by 5.13-climbing mutant who has a much longer reach than me. It was a move between two 5.10 holds. They were just... umm... not where I would put them on 5.10. But camhead would be happy to know that as a result of not-reaching for those holds I took an honest 30-footer air ride. Snoop found us there, and added some failsauce to his warmup, cover up my glory send. Then we went to the Gallery to find the rest of the Fayetteville crew. The Fayetteville crew was tearing things up at the left side of the Gallery, onsighting everything left and right (they were not part of the failsauce group). The Gumbyside of the Gallery was littered with gumbies, but fortunately not literally littered. It came terrifyingly close though, when the guy trying to clean Brief History of Climb on rappel couldn't reach the draws on overhanging face, and asked his partner on the ground to put him "on real belay" (instead of the firemen's belay). His partner promptly dropped both strands of the rope that he was holding on to, put one of them through the ATC, and told the rappeller guy that he was now "on belay". I freaked out, picturing the rappeller letting go of the rope, now that he was "on belay", and sliding all the way to the ground. But he kept the hand on the rope. Wheewww! On Sunday, the Fayetteville crew headed out to long wall for some tradadventuring, and we climbed at Solar Collector. The wind kept the rock crisp and made the temperatures feel perfect. I made progress on BEHJ. Which is another way of saying that I spread more failsauce on it, to cover the weathered-out sauce from couple weeks ago. Snoop and Becs and Ed added more on other routes. Shaun continued distancing himself from our gerky group by sending 3 5.12s in a row without rest, one of them VOS, and making it into a 10pitch day overall. Ed and I left in the early afternoon, and drove home through the monsoon. I hope some of that rain got the remaining gerks wet, too, because I am mean that way. the end
Heh, that near-gumby-miss is insane! Did Shaun get back on Mindmeld? Sounds like gud thymes, even with all the failage. And great job on finally polishing off Citizen's Arete! Multi-year project NAILED!
Had a good trip to WV. Unfortunately, most of my climbing days were in crappy rain conditions, and the boating was in perfect sun. Should have been the other way around.
Made progress on Disl 911, which I think will be this year's big goal. Super precise, techy microcrimps that your average RRG douchbag would even be able to use for feet, much less hands. I got the bottom 12+ section pretty wired, and now it's just a matter of cruising through that and hitting this super precise deadpoint off of two bad holds, into a mailbox slot.
I was telling dribble about making progress, and she was like, "oh, are you close to the send?" I replied with the Churchill quote from 1942, in which he said about the war, "it is not the end, it is not even the beginning of the end. But, it is the end of the beginning." That's how the prodge is going.
Had two GREAT runs of the Gauley on SatSun. Redeemed ourselves from the savage beating we took last year. Nailed the upper (which is the big burley sustained V section) on Saturday, then went back and did the "Marathon," which is the upper, with 16 more miles of class IV added onto the bottom.
Was really beat last night after a hard day of boating and substance abuse, drove home in a daze, and woke up having to prep lectures at 6am. I think they went ok, though. In a moment of improv, I decided to show my class the section from Holy Grail with Dennis the Anarcho-communal-syndicate and the watery tart bit, to illustrate Thomas Paine's view of the British King.
that is awl.
|
|
|
|
|
epoch
Moderator
Oct 16, 2012, 4:17 AM
Post #93844 of 105309
(5896 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
|
For Doc:
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Oct 18, 2012, 8:21 PM
Post #93845 of 105309
(5839 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Just thought some of y'all would get a kick out of this jmeizis smackdown.
Cheers,
GO
|
|
|
|
|
carabiner96
Oct 18, 2012, 8:34 PM
Post #93846 of 105309
(5836 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12610
|
cracklover wrote: Just thought some of y'all would get a kick out of this jmeizis smackdown. Cheers, GO
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Oct 19, 2012, 12:37 AM
Post #93847 of 105309
(5810 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
carabiner96 wrote: cracklover wrote: Just thought some of y'all would get a kick out of this jmeizis smackdown. Cheers, GO Nice. I'm moving to your neck of the woods next week, see you around.
Are you really? How nice! Will have to have a little Maine reunion.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Oct 19, 2012, 1:21 AM
Post #93848 of 105309
(5806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
cracklover wrote: carabiner96 wrote: cracklover wrote: Just thought some of y'all would get a kick out of this jmeizis smackdown. Cheers, GO Nice. I'm moving to your neck of the woods next week, see you around. Are you really? How nice! Will have to have a little Maine reunion. GO
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Oct 19, 2012, 1:29 AM
Post #93849 of 105309
(5805 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
cracklover wrote: Just thought some of y'all would get a kick out of this jmeizis smackdown. Cheers, GO
jmeizis is a jiant douchecake. Premier guiding service in coloradiego.
|
|
|
|
|
drivel
Oct 19, 2012, 12:59 PM
Post #93850 of 105309
(5792 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 22, 2010
Posts: 2459
|
cracklover wrote: Just thought some of y'all would get a kick out of this jmeizis smackdown. Cheers, GO
aww, baby, you know just what I like.
baby, come back! if you come back, baby, I swear I won't hit you no more.
|
|
|
|
|
|
