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How long for most people to reach v6's?
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Daggers


Nov 2, 2012, 5:58 PM
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Re: [edge] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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I would definitely disagree and say that there is a lot of variety in a gym. The route setters have all types of style and holds. I would say a gym has more variety than an area outdoors simply because the problems are whatever they want it to be and you can make up routes on top of those and get even more types of climbing styles.


redlude97


Nov 2, 2012, 6:09 PM
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Re: [Daggers] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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Daggers wrote:
I would definitely disagree and say that there is a lot of variety in a gym. The route setters have all types of style and holds. I would say a gym has more variety than an area outdoors simply because the problems are whatever they want it to be and you can make up routes on top of those and get even more types of climbing styles.
Its still the fucking gym. Get outside and report back.


bearbreeder


Nov 2, 2012, 6:19 PM
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Re: [Daggers] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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Daggers wrote:
I would definitely disagree and say that there is a lot of variety in a gym. The route setters have all types of style and holds. I would say a gym has more variety than an area outdoors simply because the problems are whatever they want it to be and you can make up routes on top of those and get even more types of climbing styles.

have you even been outside?????

go climb just cracks ... not sport ... and youll find out that even that limited purview there is much more variety than the gym ... fingers, offwidths, chimneys, roof cracks, hands, fists, dihedrals, smeary racks, layback cracks, shallow tips cracks, etc ... ... each one uses a different technique

now add in all the sport, big walls, slab, bouldering, etc ... each one with basically just as much variety ... and anyone can see how stupid your statement is

just go out and climb instead of being a total aggressively ignorant idiot

Tongue


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Nov 2, 2012, 6:22 PM)


edge


Nov 2, 2012, 7:00 PM
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Re: [Daggers] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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Daggers wrote:
I would definitely disagree and say that there is a lot of variety in a gym. The route setters have all types of style and holds. I would say a gym has more variety than an area outdoors simply because the problems are whatever they want it to be and you can make up routes on top of those and get even more types of climbing styles.

You should purchase a dump truck, because you're going to need something to carry away all that dirt from the hole you're digging yourself into.

First, before you lecture me about gyms, you may find it interesting that I have climbed in, ran comps for, and visited over 130 gyms in over 20 states. I coached a competitive climbing team for 10 years, have designed and built 5 large walls for schools, and have made my own holds from shaping to pouring the resin to route setting for comps. Oh yeah, I'm also a USA Climbing Nationally Certified Head Judge and have overseen all manor of events including Adult Bouldering Nationals. I am going out on a limb here, not knowing you at all, but I may know more about gym climbing than you...

Now for the best part, I have well over 1500 days climbing outdoors totaling maybe 6000+ pitches from trad to sport to big walls, and I'm not even the most experienced climber on this site; far from it. Many, many more days and pitches if you count ice and alpine climbing, but lets exclude those for the purpose of our discussion, shall we.

Now, bottom line is, everything you wrote in the above quote is a crock of Sh!t. You are young (I'm guessing 16ish?) and enthusiastic; that's fabulous. It appears to me that you have climbed at no more than a couple of gyms, if that, and I seriously doubt you have ever climbed outdoors at all. Florida is not generally known as a climbers playground. You can never replicate the variety and styles of climbing available outdoors in a gym environment. For all the multitude of holds and gyms as there are, there are infinitely more in Nature. Period. End of story.

Please stop arguing a point that you are not going to win and have no qualifications to have an opinion on.


(This post was edited by edge on Nov 2, 2012, 7:12 PM)


Alimali


Nov 3, 2012, 12:38 AM
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Re: [Daggers] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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Daggers wrote:
I would definitely disagree and say that there is a lot of variety in a gym. The route setters have all types of style and holds. I would say a gym has more variety than an area outdoors simply because the problems are whatever they want it to be and you can make up routes on top of those and get even more types of climbing styles.

Come on... REALLY? I'm a massive gym rat, just due to the convenience of it and the fact that I'm a beginner, and that sounds completely ridiculous to even me

There is no way that climbing in a gym will ever be able to replicate the variety and wonderfulness of real rocks.

Have you actually climbed outside?

I don't mean to sound patronizing, but that just doesn't make any sense to me.


yanqui


Nov 3, 2012, 8:50 AM
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Re: [Daggers] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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I don't have the first idea about "most people", but there is a kid here (in his 20s) who climbs with our little group, and who recently managed to climb several (stout and consensus) V6's after climbing for about a year and a half. Maybe not exactly a prodigy, but it's the first time I've ever seen someone reach that level so quickly. My 10 year old daughter has recently climbed some V3s, although she's been on and off climbing for a few years. This year, though, she seems to be really getting into it. and is starting to train, on a more regular basis. Who knows where she'll be at when she's 11?


dinosore


Nov 3, 2012, 4:16 PM
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Re: [Daggers] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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Daggers wrote:
What's the difference between grades indoors and outdoors? isn't a v3 a v3 and a v8 a v8 whether indoors or outdoors?

and wow jomagam, way to show some charm.....

I can climb v3/4 steady at my gym. First time i climbed at Joshua Tree I didnt send higher then a v1. Climbing on rock is different then plastic molds for sure


Daggers


Nov 3, 2012, 5:34 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
Daggers wrote:
I would definitely disagree and say that there is a lot of variety in a gym. The route setters have all types of style and holds. I would say a gym has more variety than an area outdoors simply because the problems are whatever they want it to be and you can make up routes on top of those and get even more types of climbing styles.

have you even been outside?????

go climb just cracks ... not sport ... and youll find out that even that limited purview there is much more variety than the gym ... fingers, offwidths, chimneys, roof cracks, hands, fists, dihedrals, smeary racks, layback cracks, shallow tips cracks, etc ... ... each one uses a different technique

now add in all the sport, big walls, slab, bouldering, etc ... each one with basically just as much variety ... and anyone can see how stupid your statement is

just go out and climb instead of being a total aggressively ignorant idiot

Tongue

and what, those styles can't be replicated in a gym? i mean yeah sure, outdoor rock definitely has the different textures and environment and that can't be put indoors, but the moves and holds can definitely be replicated. If you have trouble with some moves outdoors and you can do it indoors with the problem replicated, then it's all mental.

A boulder is going to look more or less the same after years. In a gym, a wall will change many, many times after years. Tell me which one has more variety.


Gmburns2000


Nov 3, 2012, 6:09 PM
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Re: [Daggers] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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T6

I would've given it T2 because it was kind of a crappy thread / topic, but you hooked a couple of knowledgeable regulars.

Well done.


skiclimb


Nov 3, 2012, 9:47 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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Pebbles? Pebbles!!! ... Pebbles

We talkin bout Pebbles??


bearbreeder


Nov 3, 2012, 10:48 PM
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Re: [Daggers] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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Daggers wrote:

and what, those styles can't be replicated in a gym? i mean yeah sure, outdoor rock definitely has the different textures and environment and that can't be put indoors, but the moves and holds can definitely be replicated. If you have trouble with some moves outdoors and you can do it indoors with the problem replicated, then it's all mental.

A boulder is going to look more or less the same after years. In a gym, a wall will change many, many times after years. Tell me which one has more variety.

why dont you tell us exactly how many places and what routes you have climbed outdoors ...

you know to replicate even offwidth cracks alone youd have to change the texture and walls of the route in hte gyms every time ... theres overhanging offwidths, flared ones, constricting ones, #4/5/6/big bro sized, right/left leaning ones, corner ones, roof ones ... how often are you willing to rebuild the climbing gym?

use yr little head instead of being aggressively ignorant ...

said with utter and total contempt Tongue


Daggers


Nov 4, 2012, 5:24 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
Daggers wrote:

and what, those styles can't be replicated in a gym? i mean yeah sure, outdoor rock definitely has the different textures and environment and that can't be put indoors, but the moves and holds can definitely be replicated. If you have trouble with some moves outdoors and you can do it indoors with the problem replicated, then it's all mental.

A boulder is going to look more or less the same after years. In a gym, a wall will change many, many times after years. Tell me which one has more variety.

why dont you tell us exactly how many places and what routes you have climbed outdoors ...

you know to replicate even offwidth cracks alone youd have to change the texture and walls of the route in hte gyms every time ... theres overhanging offwidths, flared ones, constricting ones, #4/5/6/big bro sized, right/left leaning ones, corner ones, roof ones ... how often are you willing to rebuild the climbing gym?

use yr little head instead of being aggressively ignorant ...

said with utter and total contempt Tongue

ok so you're comparing the whole world of outside climbing to one gym? Gyms have cracks built into the wall sometimes and if you want to climb other crack types, go to other gyms. One gym alone can't replicate all of them. Just like if you want to climb different crack types outdoors, you go to different places. That's a no brainer.

so why don't you use your head before you arrogantly post next time.


bearbreeder


Nov 4, 2012, 5:32 AM
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Daggers wrote:

ok so you're comparing the whole world of outside climbing to one gym? Gyms have cracks built into the wall sometimes and if you want to climb other crack types, go to other gyms. One gym alone can't replicate all of them. Just like if you want to climb different crack types outdoors, you go to different places. That's a no brainer.

so why don't you use your head before you arrogantly post next time.

i repeat ... TELLS US THE CLIMBS YOUVE DONE OUTDOORS ... Tongue

now we got to go to gyms all over the world because all the gyms in the world will have enough cracks to surpass the cracks outside ???

classic .... totally and utterly RC uber classic Wink


Daggers


Nov 4, 2012, 6:02 AM
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bearbreeder wrote:
Daggers wrote:

ok so you're comparing the whole world of outside climbing to one gym? Gyms have cracks built into the wall sometimes and if you want to climb other crack types, go to other gyms. One gym alone can't replicate all of them. Just like if you want to climb different crack types outdoors, you go to different places. That's a no brainer.

so why don't you use your head before you arrogantly post next time.

i repeat ... TELLS US THE CLIMBS YOUVE DONE OUTDOORS ... Tongue

now we got to go to gyms all over the world because all the gyms in the world will have enough cracks to surpass the cracks outside ???

classic .... totally and utterly RC uber classic Wink

like that matters? i've only been to a couple places like horse pens 40 but like i said already a boulder is going to look more or less the same after years. In a gym, a wall will change many, many times after years. Tell me which one has more variety.


csproul


Nov 4, 2012, 6:05 AM
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Dude..you're funny. Is your gym in a Holiday Inn Express?


bearbreeder


Nov 4, 2012, 6:19 AM
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Daggers wrote:

like that matters? i've only been to a couple places like horse pens 40 but like i said already a boulder is going to look more or less the same after years. In a gym, a wall will change many, many times after years. Tell me which one has more variety.

so basically youve done a boulder or two at one place ... so you say Wink

tell me how much rock there is in the world oh little aggressively ignorant RC wannabe Tongue

have you even tried anything but a boulder or two outside ... a few real routes, some trad, a multipitch, a crack or two? Cool


jbone


Nov 4, 2012, 7:36 AM
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I'm actually gonna answer your question.

Takes me about 35 min to get to v6's, about 200 of them nearby in Queen Creek, Arizona. If I add about 20 min to that I can reach about 25 more in the Sups.

The Moonstone at Groom Creek in Prescott is a solid v6 and its about 90 min away. Then Anorexic, one of the most classic roof lines in the world is just 2 hours away. Still just a day trip. And Hueco Tanks, the best bouldering area in the western hemisphere is a scant 6 hrs away which has another 100+ v6's.

These area's all have somewhere in the area of a trillion sq. ft. of climbable surface area, whats your gym, maybe 5,000-6,000 sq.ft.? Not even close dude.


Daggers


Nov 4, 2012, 9:58 AM
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jbone wrote:
I'm actually gonna answer your question.

Takes me about 35 min to get to v6's, about 200 of them nearby in Queen Creek, Arizona. If I add about 20 min to that I can reach about 25 more in the Sups.

The Moonstone at Groom Creek in Prescott is a solid v6 and its about 90 min away. Then Anorexic, one of the most classic roof lines in the world is just 2 hours away. Still just a day trip. And Hueco Tanks, the best bouldering area in the western hemisphere is a scant 6 hrs away which has another 100+ v6's.

These area's all have somewhere in the area of a trillion sq. ft. of climbable surface area, whats your gym, maybe 5,000-6,000 sq.ft.? Not even close dude.

my gym isn't the only gym in the world. I'm talking about all the rock in the world and all the gyms in the world.

and my question was on how long since you started climbing does it take to get to the v6 level. sorry if that was unclear.


rocknice2


Nov 4, 2012, 10:47 AM
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Daggers wrote:
So I just broke through the plateau i was on and i'm climbing v6's now after starting climbing about 8 months ago. I was wondering how long it usually takes most people to get to this point. My gym ranks the problems like horse pens 40 so you can get an idea of how hard it's rated
Daggers your a rockstar. You have definitely reached v6 faster than most people, seeing as most people don't reach v6 at all. Your physical skills are envied but many.

Your question is impertinent to 99% of the climbers out there. You see it's all about having fun, setting goals and achieving personal milestones. It's not about who's better, stronger or faster than me.
If I have had a super fun happy day on the rock with good friends then +1.
Send a project I've been working hard on +1.
Spend time around a campfire with a self absorbed rock god -1.

You see it's all well and good that you reach v6 but who cares, besides you. If you feel that your level of accomplishment is high then that's what it is. If you feel that it's not then try harder.

As for the plastic vs rock debate. It's plastic, no sane climber picks plastic when they can climb rock. Rock has way more variety then plastic ever will. There are route you can model in the gym but there are many more you can't.

My advice is to take a road trip and then post back.


Daggers


Nov 4, 2012, 12:12 PM
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rocknice2 wrote:
Daggers wrote:
So I just broke through the plateau i was on and i'm climbing v6's now after starting climbing about 8 months ago. I was wondering how long it usually takes most people to get to this point. My gym ranks the problems like horse pens 40 so you can get an idea of how hard it's rated
Daggers your a rockstar. You have definitely reached v6 faster than most people, seeing as most people don't reach v6 at all. Your physical skills are envied but many.

Your question is impertinent to 99% of the climbers out there. You see it's all about having fun, setting goals and achieving personal milestones. It's not about who's better, stronger or faster than me.
If I have had a super fun happy day on the rock with good friends then +1.
Send a project I've been working hard on +1.
Spend time around a campfire with a self absorbed rock god -1.

You see it's all well and good that you reach v6 but who cares, besides you. If you feel that your level of accomplishment is high then that's what it is. If you feel that it's not then try harder.

As for the plastic vs rock debate. It's plastic, no sane climber picks plastic when they can climb rock. Rock has way more variety then plastic ever will. There are route you can model in the gym but there are many more you can't.

My advice is to take a road trip and then post back.


I do agree with most of what you said. I view a good day as one that I felt good while climbing, not what I climbed. But basically what everyone on here thinks is that seeing how well your performance is compared to others isn't good. I never said that i'm just all about trying to beat everyone. Yeah sure, i want to become really godd but only because I want to be able to do this as a living for a while (an almost impossible goal i know, but no reason not to try), but I do it because I love it not because i'm "a self-absorbed rock god".

The original question was asked out of simple curiosity, not as an egotistical climber. And yeah i would climb outdoors just about any day if i had the chance, but sadly i don't. plus it tends to tear up my shoes pretty badly and i'm no millionaire! lol


theextremist04


Nov 4, 2012, 1:33 PM
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Daggers wrote:
rocknice2 wrote:
Daggers wrote:
So I just broke through the plateau i was on and i'm climbing v6's now after starting climbing about 8 months ago. I was wondering how long it usually takes most people to get to this point. My gym ranks the problems like horse pens 40 so you can get an idea of how hard it's rated
Daggers your a rockstar. You have definitely reached v6 faster than most people, seeing as most people don't reach v6 at all. Your physical skills are envied but many.

Your question is impertinent to 99% of the climbers out there. You see it's all about having fun, setting goals and achieving personal milestones. It's not about who's better, stronger or faster than me.
If I have had a super fun happy day on the rock with good friends then +1.
Send a project I've been working hard on +1.
Spend time around a campfire with a self absorbed rock god -1.

You see it's all well and good that you reach v6 but who cares, besides you. If you feel that your level of accomplishment is high then that's what it is. If you feel that it's not then try harder.

As for the plastic vs rock debate. It's plastic, no sane climber picks plastic when they can climb rock. Rock has way more variety then plastic ever will. There are route you can model in the gym but there are many more you can't.

My advice is to take a road trip and then post back.


Yeah sure, i want to become really godd but only because I want to be able to do this as a living for a while
Semi-Freudian slip?


Daggers


Nov 4, 2012, 2:36 PM
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theextremist04 wrote:
Daggers wrote:
rocknice2 wrote:
Daggers wrote:
So I just broke through the plateau i was on and i'm climbing v6's now after starting climbing about 8 months ago. I was wondering how long it usually takes most people to get to this point. My gym ranks the problems like horse pens 40 so you can get an idea of how hard it's rated
Daggers your a rockstar. You have definitely reached v6 faster than most people, seeing as most people don't reach v6 at all. Your physical skills are envied but many.

Your question is impertinent to 99% of the climbers out there. You see it's all about having fun, setting goals and achieving personal milestones. It's not about who's better, stronger or faster than me.
If I have had a super fun happy day on the rock with good friends then +1.
Send a project I've been working hard on +1.
Spend time around a campfire with a self absorbed rock god -1.

You see it's all well and good that you reach v6 but who cares, besides you. If you feel that your level of accomplishment is high then that's what it is. If you feel that it's not then try harder.

As for the plastic vs rock debate. It's plastic, no sane climber picks plastic when they can climb rock. Rock has way more variety then plastic ever will. There are route you can model in the gym but there are many more you can't.

My advice is to take a road trip and then post back.


Yeah sure, i want to become really godd but only because I want to be able to do this as a living for a while
Semi-Freudian slip?

lol *good not godd. that's pretty funny


rocknice2


Nov 4, 2012, 8:09 PM
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Daggers wrote:
I do agree with most of what you said. I view a good day as one that I felt good while climbing, not what I climbed. But basically what everyone on here thinks is that seeing how well your performance is compared to others isn't good.
Now your understanding things.

Daggers wrote:
Yeah sure, i want to become really [good climber] but only because I want to be able to do this as a living for a while (an almost impossible goal i know, but no reason not to try)
OK now there is a goal. Unfortunately it's too early to tell if your world class material. You'll need to reach at least v14 to be world class. Can you reach it? Yes you can but only if you put in the hard work to get there.
There are a lot of climbers that can reach v6. Not most but many. The difference between a v14 and a v6 climber is dedication to the point where you can't do anything else including have a job. You'd be a full-time athlete and training/climbing would be your life. Now that is your goal except for the fact that your still not getting paid.

The world of professional athletes is a dirtbag living, especially for climbers. The factories will give you all the gear you can carry up the largest peak in the world. The thing they won't do is pay you $$. They have no need to. They will give you a job if your not a douche bag but they won't pay you to climb.
Now making videos and having your own line of t-shirts is where you can make money. And hey when you do something amazing, I'll buy a "Dagger The Destroyer" video, no problem.

I wish you the best of luck in perusing your goals.


Daggers


Nov 5, 2012, 4:33 AM
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rocknice2 wrote:
Daggers wrote:
I do agree with most of what you said. I view a good day as one that I felt good while climbing, not what I climbed. But basically what everyone on here thinks is that seeing how well your performance is compared to others isn't good.
Now your understanding things.

Daggers wrote:
Yeah sure, i want to become really [good climber] but only because I want to be able to do this as a living for a while (an almost impossible goal i know, but no reason not to try)
OK now there is a goal. Unfortunately it's too early to tell if your world class material. You'll need to reach at least v14 to be world class. Can you reach it? Yes you can but only if you put in the hard work to get there.
There are a lot of climbers that can reach v6. Not most but many. The difference between a v14 and a v6 climber is dedication to the point where you can't do anything else including have a job. You'd be a full-time athlete and training/climbing would be your life. Now that is your goal except for the fact that your still not getting paid.

The world of professional athletes is a dirtbag living, especially for climbers. The factories will give you all the gear you can carry up the largest peak in the world. The thing they won't do is pay you $$. They have no need to. They will give you a job if your not a douche bag but they won't pay you to climb.
Now making videos and having your own line of t-shirts is where you can make money. And hey when you do something amazing, I'll buy a "Dagger The Destroyer" video, no problem.

I wish you the best of luck in perusing your goals.
Thanks! I apologize if I came off as douche baggy earlier, I guess i wasn't explaining myself clearly and I needed to just stop and think for a moment.


skiclimb


Nov 5, 2012, 9:31 AM
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Re: [Daggers] How long for most people to reach v6's? [In reply to]
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You seem young, enthusiastic, ambitious and like most youngsters that off balance mix of proud and insecure. Passionate and defensive. You are clearly thinking about climbing when you are not doing it but don't have much experience other than gym climbing. You seem sure of your ideas.

With more experience that is a potent mix of attributes that can serve you well and has served a lot of the best climbers in the past. Us old farts will tolerate an enthusiastic kid, you'll make a handy rope gun soon enough. Plus hell some of us were the same way once upon a time.

Do you have good judgement when climbing? Hard to say. I hope so.. I hope you will have a good feel for your limits at any one time. That you do not make terribly dangerous errors.

Beyond that keep having fun with climbing. Keep trying to be your best and see if you can measure up to those climbers with the skill you wish to have. The path of becoming your own hero is a good one. Part of growing up if you are lucky.

Chill, have a blast, climb hard, push yourself and help others, The results you want will come when they should.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Nov 5, 2012, 9:54 AM)

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