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jakedatc
Jul 30, 2003, 2:23 AM
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**begin spray**
I finally got my summer project of that 9+ flake problem(almost cut my hair) done today and then repeated it on rope up to that overhang 6+
** end spray**
fun times as always.. Robb and I definitely closed the place cuz we couldnt see like 10 feet in front of us leaving.. Shane was smart and left before us.. girls.. what do they know :roll:
I'm planning to go to QQ next week during the day when it gets planned better i'll post and see if anyone's got a day off or something and would want to join
Jake
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robbovius
Jul 30, 2003, 2:56 AM
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LOL! how can I compete with Jake's spray?
I repeated my "overcling" Send money variation 2x, but not without peeling once on the second try( gilly you'd be proud, I had shane lower me to the ground to have a full attempt)...the reach to the overcling is ver balancy for me, if I hurry, or don't keep myself flat on the wall, or say the proper incantation, or whatever, boink! thus I can't say I have that variation wired yet, damn it..
seems like Shane has her own two-crimp Send Money variation wired though, repeated 2x one right after the other. sweet!
I made it up to the roof on Militant Right which is about halfway, and a massive struggle for me or so it seemed, only peeled 3x rather than the 6 or 8 the day I tried it when Evan was belaying me...that's my new project, as opposed to Techno Dweeb...
*edit*
how could it forget!!!!
Jake and I SERIOUSLY closed the joint, each of us doing a burn of "Excersize..." just as the sun was setting. it was dark enough that I couldn't see three of the footholds I use, and just had to put my foot out to where it felt about right, and then trust the hold would be there.
How much does that increase the difficulty level?? ;-)
by the time I pulled my anchors the woods were dark and the parking area was lit up by the driveway lights of the house accrss the street. heh!
WideG did you & mike make QQ tonight?
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wideguy
Jul 30, 2003, 3:06 AM
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No had to bail. Getting ready for camping this weekend and Kim wasn't feeling well so I had to come home and help out. Damn responsibilities!!!! 8) 8)
Almost two weeks since I climbed at all. I'm dying over here!! Hopefully tomorrow night. Somewhere.
Cool sends everyone. Color me jealous. My own personal demon, the outside rout on the arete on M wall MUst fall soon! :evil: :evil: :evil:
Send Money too. :(
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wannabeaclimber
Jul 30, 2003, 12:41 PM
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Hey there Jake, don't be dissin' the chick! I had a previous engagement to get to, or I would've hung around to play in the dark too. lol
Chad - thanks for the props and believe me, if I can get up Send money, anyone can! :o The next time you hit CR, I'm sure you'll cruise right up it!
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wideguy
Jul 30, 2003, 1:29 PM
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Thanks Shane but you don't have quite the ...., um, .....Hops Muscle, that I do. you can stay closer to the rock than me. :lol: :lol:
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robbovius
Jul 31, 2003, 11:33 AM
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FYI, Shane and I will be at CR tonight (as usual) from about 5:30 until whenever...see whoever shows up!
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jakedatc
Jul 31, 2003, 3:28 PM
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I might be up for a little bit.. can't kill myself cuz i'm biking tomorrow :)
Jake
ps shane i got that pic.. works fine now i got a new modem :)
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wannabeaclimber
Jul 31, 2003, 6:46 PM
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Cool Jake, glad it worked. Remember, only use that pic for good! lol :wink:
C-ya later! maybe
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robbovius
Aug 1, 2003, 11:42 AM
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Hey Shane, Jake, good climbing last night. only a little spray: I got past the roof on "Militant Right" and have the moves up to the roof wired pretty much, pretty sure of the sequence out side the rof, I think I can get "Militant Right" next time...should fall in a couple more tries!
Jake I did another after-dark Excersize burn ;-) heh. Carmen on belay...;-)
the weather doens't look good for climbing this weekend unfortuntely. if it's not too soggy shane and I might make a trip to Lookout to reconnoiter a bit more and begin a cleanup plan, MAYBE throw rope...
Bonesz I read you PM sounds kewl! glad to have another person willing to help out with the Lookout cleanup. I'll e-mail you directions and the date once it's finalized. Rich Doucette is ging to get it hooked up as an Adopt-a-Crag day...is contacting the parks dept to let them know our plans. once I have a definite date I'll post all the info in a new thread.
*edit*
ah crap I'm such a fricken n00b! new gear spray!
just came back from REI with a Petzl William screwgate (I am determined to make that stupid freebie Fader Inline belay device work! maybe the flatter D shape will help) another BD Enduro draw (3 down, 7 to go!) and 4 Wild Country wired Rocks in size 6, 7, 8, and 9. LOL! damn it! or something.
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orangekyak
Aug 3, 2003, 1:56 AM
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blueleaper and I will be at CR at 9 am sunday aug 3 if the weather holds together. be there.
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robbovius
Aug 3, 2003, 9:19 PM
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Damn Jer, sorry I missed ya, too much partyin last night, my head still hurts...
*edit*
I hate work.
spent yesterday recovering from beerophiliatic brain disorder, climbed nothing. who climbed what?
gilly also sorry I missed you and the ladies at QQ...
here's to hoping the weather cooperates this week.
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bonesz
Aug 4, 2003, 6:41 PM
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Tried to get some climbing in at the quarries on sunday....(stupid I know) Got anchors set, .......it rained. Had my brother in laws g.friend who wanted to try it. Despite the long anchor changed and the rain and the heat, she's pumped. We were going to try a couple routes on M face, but by the time we got our /my gear over there, local climbers were literally ruinning up the talus to set there anchors first......so we stood right under them and packed up the gear, all the had to do was yell "ROPE" I would've moved :shock:
So bonesz may actually be cultivating a future partner......could it be..could it actually happen ?? She...Sarah has never climbed before, she has natural form and a seemingly obvious abscence of fear. She did very well, though she needs belay work.
All was well, lots and lots of climbers by 11:30am they were lining the streets.
Hope everyone is/was safe.
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orangekyak
Aug 5, 2003, 3:27 AM
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I've been waiting for months for these, the first two weeks of August 2003, for road tripping and climbing. And the forecast is for rain, forever. But that's kinda ok, becuase I have the worst poison ivy ever all over my hands and feet. Sucks majorly. Doctor gave me sterroids (not anabolic, so I'm not going to get jacked) so it should clear up in the next couple days.
So since the weather has f'd my plans, I'm chillin in Central PA (home of many chossy hills with zero potential) visiting the potential future in-laws (when is she going to buy me a ring already!!!), waitin for the storms to break. I'll either be climbing at Seneca in West Virginia later this week, or waiting til next week to hit the gunks ... or both.
I'll be back late next week to start my teaching job in Marlboro. We applied for an apartment in Framingham, so I might be a CR local as of September 1. I'll keep you posted.
Anyone lookin to climb gunks M-Th next week ought to keep checkin on here and on weather.com. And bring a partner.
hope the weather gives y'all in boston area a chance to pull down. later, jeremy
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robbovius
Aug 5, 2003, 11:48 AM
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Hey Jer, sucks about the P-ivy...
I doubt we're gonna get to climb much up around here this week either, unless the rains hold off tomorrow and thursday. *insert farting noise here*
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orangekyak
Aug 5, 2003, 2:00 PM
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Sup guys and gals ... I'm going to whine about the weather again ... what is up with this 5h1t? everywhere i've been these last couple days the forecast has been for thunder showers but when i've gotten there it's been partly or mostly cloudy. I might just say f it all and go to the gunks either way (and watch my fortune change for the worse).
But all this not climbing has been great for my home economics ... after firing off this post then reading a couple lame trolls I'm going to go back into the other room and finish up my lightweight backpacking quilt. It's coming along well, pictures soon.
I promise to post something relevant to this thread next time. thanks, jeremy
aka "sour in central PA"
aka "mired in middleburg"
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wideguy
Aug 5, 2003, 2:48 PM
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Sorry about the weather Jer. It's my fault actually. I planned to put up a fence this week and I was camping last weekend, so of course the gods chose to smite me. The rest of you are suffering colatteral misery.
I also haven't climbed in over two weeks. Anyone up for a gym night?
And hey, if we can't use this thread to talk about climbing, might as well b1tch about not being able to climb. :wink:
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jakedatc
Aug 5, 2003, 4:10 PM
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yo chad... i think sunday is gunna be a gym night for Nick and i.. possibly others i hope
i havent been there in a while but the normal time of 8-12 i believe
Jake
2 weeks to find out if i passed the last 2 parts of my test.. this one felt better then the first one though
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robbovius
Aug 5, 2003, 10:26 PM
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As a measure of my desperation, seeking any climbing related activity at all, the solace of the rock, as it were, I chucked the cragbag into the back of the beetle and sped over to CR in between showers....
...wasn't expecting much, mebbe some bouldering....
Anyway I got there and the rock was, ,as expected, pretty much soaked all over, but I was all by meself and it was kinda neat - into the solitude - so I laid my pack down on a boulder by the "wave" section and pulled out my 4 new WC rocks and a couple of the new quickdraws I've got and started poking the rocks around into the various cracks there, setting them and taking them out, practicing various placements...getting to know how they worked, trying to figure out which placements were good and which would be sketch... it was fun
At one point the No.6 got really stuck (I guess that one was pretty bomber eh? ;-) ) and I had to go back to my pack to dig out one of my knives so I could use the handle to knock the rock out of the crack, and as I turned from the pack back to the rock I banged my left knee against the boulder that the pack was on, giving it a nice little scrape...it immediately began to ooze.
Two minutes later it began to rain so I bailed. But, with the bleeding scrape on my knee, and knowing it was climbing related, I felt complete. ;-)
Simple pleasures, eh?
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berger
Aug 5, 2003, 11:29 PM
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The small pleasures are the best Rob! I haven't been climbing since...well, it's been a while. Does anyone go to Dedham Health to climb? I have a membership there til the end of the month and the gym is pretty good.
...waiting for the skies to part
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jakedatc
Aug 6, 2003, 4:59 AM
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Hey,
according to the radio and Accuweather thursday might be .. wait. wait for it..... DRY or something resembling dry...
i'm all about getting out to CR robb.. chad.. you all know who you are.. CHAD you best be coming out jeesh you still know what to do??
again sunday. RI.. hopefully should be good times
jake nice pics rob... i love the TENATIVE START caption... PSSHHHH ya cant exactly just JUMP onto lil tiny POS's of footholds and just go STFU nOOOb
:twisted: :shock: :lol:
i WILL be talking to Shane about getting some "non climbing/set up injury pics of you Mr ! lol
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robbovius
Aug 6, 2003, 12:44 PM
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Hey Jake...
Shane and I are in constant contact about making it to CR...weathah.com still calls for 30% chance of scattered thunderstorms tomorrow late afternoon, but if it's not raining we'll be there. Hopefully the rain will just pass by hereabouts today so that the crag can dry out. it was pretty soggy yesterday.
if the rain give us a pass today (50% chance) I'm prolly gonna check CR conditions on the way home and see if anybody wants to git up. I'll keep ya posted.
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wideguy
Aug 6, 2003, 1:43 PM
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I don't have my gear with me today but if it looks like I might get an opening, I'll be shooting for QQ. Less topsoil on the rock+no trees to shade= MUCH drier, much faster. I'll play that by ear
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berger
Aug 6, 2003, 5:17 PM
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cool Chad, give me a buzz if you head up to QQ and I'll meet you there
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robbovius
Aug 6, 2003, 6:59 PM
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the sun is still out, I'm outta here in another 1.5 hours. after I hit home, and if it's not raining, I'm packing up the cragbag and heading straight to CR for whatever...the rock will likely still be damp, but some of it will be climbable...
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robbovius
Aug 7, 2003, 2:01 PM
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OH MAN was CR ever climbable!!! I set up on "The Late September combo" creating one of the anchor points using two of my new WC rocks with a self-equalizing sling between them. that was fun. Took my time about that, made sure everyhting was bomber. One of my more-experienced periodic CR aquaintances - Kevin, the dude who solos on that russian-made self-belay device - showed up and checked out my placements and setup, gave good critique.
did laps on a couple variation of the Combo, with belay from a guy named Andy who was there with some friends doing repeated rappels off the top by "Exercise..." Then I teamed up with Kevin and we worked a 5.9 to the left of "Militant Right" not sure of the route name, I don't have my BR guide here at work.
It was kinda kewl, because the first time I climbed at CR, 3/29/03 on my pic pages, I wound up trying this same route with that guy Kevin, and flailing my sorry ass off to make the first two moves about a dozen times. yesterday I almost immediately made it right up to the overhang (about halfway) which, for me, was a good indication of how my climbing has improved since then...psyche!
I worked that section of the route 4-5 times, trying to wire the moves up to the overhang.
Closed the place again ;-)
Shane sorry you couldn't make it, Jake too bad I missed ya.
wideG, MIke, did you guys go to QQ yesterday?
Foooo!!!!! hey man, I know your hand surgery is today or tomorrow, good luck, hope everything goes smoothly, get in here and post how it went!
JJeff didja see my PM? can do, or no?
FYI, Shane and I are planning some CR action tonight from about 5:30 to closing.
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