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core
Aug 27, 2008, 4:11 AM
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robbovius
Aug 27, 2008, 11:06 AM
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Cory 27 pitches, Holy crap! that's a couple bushel baskets at least ;-)
pic caption:
"Mom, how'd they get the rope up there?"
"Don't they know that they can drive up?"
this is some awesome activity lately, everybody getting out and having success/fun. i've watched the vids from my adventures last week, but haven't taken the time to rip the pics from the camera. mebbe tonight.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 27, 2008, 11:07 AM)
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wonderwoman
Aug 27, 2008, 2:03 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Tiff-Hi, sexy-face!
Back at ya!
Now the real long weekend contemplation...
Gunks or Acadia?
What to do? What to do?
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Gmburns2000
Aug 27, 2008, 2:18 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: Gunks or Acadia? What to do? What to do?
Labor Day is usually a tourist bust for local businesses in Bar Harbor, and the weather is almost always great. I've always believed the best times to visit are the last week of August through the first week of Sept. no tourists and great weather.
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strongmadsends
Aug 27, 2008, 2:29 PM
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Hey all! Long time no post.
Kick ass job on all the sends! I'm glad everybody is having as awesome of a season as I am!
I'm curious if anybody is free sunday or monday farley choss pile expedition or hell, if anybody is free to climb, or needs a 2nd (rob) or 3rd?
Let me know!
Adam
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robbovius
Aug 27, 2008, 4:17 PM
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YO Adam, I was wondering where you'd gotten off to. I don't know what my climbign plans are for this weekend, I hav a couple daughters miving into dorms/out of appts I have to deal with adn a pool part going on sunday. if i do anything, it'll be local. I'll let you know for sure.
FYI, probably towrds the end of sept, I'm planning on taking a friday and heading up to the NoConway area. I'll pm details if you're interested.
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strongmadsends
Aug 27, 2008, 4:26 PM
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Sweet. Let me know. Wouldn't mind hitting CH...Intertwine is calling my name, just wanting to be my first 5.8 trad lead...
(This post was edited by strongmadsends on Aug 27, 2008, 4:28 PM)
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core
Aug 27, 2008, 5:08 PM
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strongmadsends
Aug 27, 2008, 5:14 PM
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do tell!
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Gmburns2000
Aug 27, 2008, 5:35 PM
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core wrote: strongmadsends wrote: Intertwine is calling my name, just wanting to be my first 5.8 trad lead... I know somebody that is thinking the same thing.
If it's the route I'm thinking of (the short crack that is between the cro-mag area and the practice wall area), then I have vowed to never climb that route again. The chockstone anchor at the top makes me nervous. Probably too much for me to say something, but since an old climbing partner died two years ago (the guy who introduced me to climbing, in fact), I've been reminding people to be cautious on chockstones that have been used to lower people forever. Because, in the case of my friend, at some point those chockstones do, in fact, fail.
Sorry to be send killer if I am being one.  Otherwise, good luck. It's a fun climb with a tricky crux at the top. I actually really enjoyed climbing it.
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core
Aug 27, 2008, 5:37 PM
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strongmadsends
Aug 27, 2008, 5:43 PM
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I heard about that anchor...my NY partner was just mentioning it. Can you traverse and finish way out to the right?
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jakedatc
Aug 27, 2008, 5:45 PM
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Hell even i led that thing :) (tho i don't remember if i did it on my own gear or only the one time with Jeremy's gear still up)
The Saigons are another good choice.. yay for gunks like routes in Conway :)
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core
Aug 27, 2008, 5:52 PM
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Gmburns2000
Aug 27, 2008, 5:53 PM
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core wrote: Slanting hand crack to bolted anchor. happy thoughts, happy thoughts...
Is it bolted now? I thought the chains wrapped around the chockstone at the top. Maybe I've got the wrong route, but I don't think so.
Adam - I don't think you can traverse right, as that would put you on that central wall. I'm also not sure if walking left would put you at the top of the other routes around the corner, though I doubt it because of the upper wall above the ledge. But maybe I've got the wrong route.
As for the lead itself, that's safe and fun. It's just the retreat that freaks me out. But again, that's me.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 27, 2008, 5:56 PM
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core wrote: What chockstone anchor are you guys talking about??? The route in question (Intertwine) is a clean crack with a solid (rusty) fixed anchor.
Sorry, I must have the wrong route. I was thinking of one that, as you pass the Cro-mag wall and walk around the corner, it is on the left, a short and somewhat winding crack. This is before you get to the practice wall. Hmm... should do some research I guess...
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strongmadsends
Aug 27, 2008, 6:00 PM
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I think everybody may be right. After rounding the corner from cro-mag, its the first right leaning crack, just before the massive chock stone 35 feet up and before the PW.
A few years ago my NY partner aided the route and was sketched out on the chain anchor because it was, well, sketchy....It may have be bolted since.
I was there last Thursday and a group from Metro was there and they took up every nice line in the place with TRs all over the place...leaving all the not so fun crappy routes or awesome routes out of my range....Any who, they put a rope up on intertwine and heard no fuss on the anchor (though, that doesn't mean much)...
(This post was edited by strongmadsends on Aug 27, 2008, 6:02 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Aug 27, 2008, 6:05 PM
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It's funny because in my research I noticed that not only was I the last person to tick off the route on RC.com, but my notes also stated "n/a". This was apparently before my friend's demise.
This is the photo on Mtn Project, probably posted by our own Orangekayak.
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strongmadsends
Aug 27, 2008, 6:10 PM
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I'll bite - that's the one I'm going to lace up. I just need a belayer. Who's in? Sunday or Monday...Please....pretty please?
BTW - note the description from MP:
The crack leads to a ledge, where a chain around a thread can be backed up for an anchor. Rappel, top out (easiest to the right, medium and hard by other routes), or TR a variety of nearby routes from the ledge.
(This post was edited by strongmadsends on Aug 27, 2008, 6:14 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Aug 27, 2008, 6:19 PM
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strongmadsends wrote: BTW - note the description from MP: The crack leads to a ledge, where a chain around a thread can be backed up for an anchor. Rappel, top out (easiest to the right, medium and hard by other routes), or TR a variety of nearby routes from the ledge.
Yeah, I saw that. While it is true, it still makes me feel a little anxious.
Sorry, but I'm at the Gunks this weekend. Good luck though.
Everyone - sorry about the size of the photo. I swear it was smaller than that when I previewed it! 
edit: OK, now the frigging picture is normal sized. I think I am going nuts.
edit again: OK, now it's huge. WTF?
edit X 3: ever get in one of those situations where you check your voicemail, and then when you get off your voicemail you check it again just to see if anyone called while you were checking your voicemail? This smaller pic vs larger pic thing is doing that to me now. See, now it's small again.
Edit the 4th: and now it's huge. 
(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Aug 27, 2008, 6:22 PM)
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cracklover
Aug 27, 2008, 6:39 PM
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core wrote: What chockstone anchor are you guys talking about??? The route in question (Intertwine) is a clean crack with a solid (rusty) fixed anchor.
The anchor is a chain threaded between a big boulder (1/2 the size of a VW bug) and the main wall. It's not a chock-stone per-se. As to whether it's safe? Yes, IMO. Sure, it's worth keeping an eye on to see if it has moved lately before committing to it, but I think the chances of that happening are next to nil. If you trace it back, 80% of that boulder is sitting on level ground. So I'd be very surprised if anything less than dynamite could budge it.
And in addition to escaping the the right, from the top of the route, you can also walk off to the left if you prefer, which gets you to the big tree-covered ledge. There are no fixed anchors there, but if you want to sacrifice a leaver sling and a biner, you could rap off one of the trees there.
I've also done some stuff through small roofs directly behind the ledge atop intertwine. Not sure what routes, but they were fun, and felt 5.7-5.8ish. So there's a third option if you want to keep going straight up.
GO
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 27, 2008, 7:45 PM
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cracklover wrote: core wrote: What chockstone anchor are you guys talking about??? The route in question (Intertwine) is a clean crack with a solid (rusty) fixed anchor. The anchor is a chain threaded between a big boulder (1/2 the size of a VW bug) and the main wall. It's not a chock-stone per-se. As to whether it's safe? Yes, IMO. Sure, it's worth keeping an eye on to see if it has moved lately before committing to it, but I think the chances of that happening are next to nil. If you trace it back, 80% of that boulder is sitting on level ground. So I'd be very surprised if anything less than dynamite could budge it. And in addition to escaping the the right, from the top of the route, you can also walk off to the left if you prefer, which gets you to the big tree-covered ledge. There are no fixed anchors there, but if you want to sacrifice a leaver sling and a biner, you could rap off one of the trees there. I've also done some stuff through small roofs directly behind the ledge atop intertwine. Not sure what routes, but they were fun, and felt 5.7-5.8ish. So there's a third option if you want to keep going straight up. GO
I was there last week and there was someone that said he was there to change that very anchor, which is a chain around an opening of very solid rock. The chain looks to still be in good shape but it has been there for a number of years.
Josh
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Gmburns2000
Aug 27, 2008, 8:12 PM
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cracklover wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Edit the 4th: and now it's huge. I'd suggest medication, or therapy. Or both. RC.com resizes photos automatically. That's why it shrinks. But sometimes it fails. Which is why it's sometimes not small. Feel better? GO
It's like one of those machines that determines epilepsy.
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orangekyak
Aug 28, 2008, 12:46 AM
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Having climbed Intertwine no fewer than a gajillion times (and loved each time like a special moment in the sun), I agree that it's worth keeping an eye on the boulder, because it's a part of your anchor. I have backed it up for belay/TR anchor, and I have rapped off it.
Greg is right to suggest it's an anchor worthy of question, but if you're leading 5.8 crack you should have a sense of safe anchors by then. If not, well you might just get lucky and learn as you go like most of us do (or, I suppose there are other unsavory potential outcomes to challenging one's comfort level).
Anyway, no assumptions about anyone's skill level here. Just saying, like Cory and Gabe said, there are plenty of options for backing up the anchor (bring some tricams or extra 1-2" cams, and some cord for really increasing gear options/range), and it's an easy second pitch up and right.
I miss Intertwine. It's like missing home cooking. Can I get a nostalgic conversation about Bombardment or Limelight next?
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