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korntera
Dec 7, 2004, 4:57 AM
Post #76 of 86
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Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 422
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I can do about 2-3 pullups with just two fingers per hand in the medium 2 finger pocket on the metolius board. I can't even hang from one finger yet. I can do 15 pullups after climbing. I weigh 180, am 5'11" and climb 5.10a boulder v1/2
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onacliff
Dec 7, 2004, 5:28 AM
Post #77 of 86
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Registered: Jul 10, 2004
Posts: 19
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The stuff that people posting here can do is crazy. No way am i cranking a one arm pull up. I just don't think they are important. I've never needed to do a one arm pullup on a climb or boulder problem. Its all in technique. Finger strength definitely does help, but even on steep problems, you can avoid weighting your fingers too much. That being said, i can do maybe 10 pullups on a doorframe, all 10 fingers and boulder about V7-V9. I actually think toe strength comes into play a lot, where you have to use tiny chips for feet, and the stronger your toes, i think the stronger you can push off the small feet. Just a thought...
Brian
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friktion
Dec 7, 2004, 11:09 PM
Post #78 of 86
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Registered: Jul 26, 2004
Posts: 82
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Saturday I went a concert and the Marines had a booth there as well as a pull up bar. The deal was do 15 and you get a free shirt. I asked how many had gotten shirts and he said not many. So I blasted off 15 palm down pullups, grabbed a shirt and told him I could've done 30 if I had some chalk. I was joking of course.
It wasn't to bad after having just finished a 3hour gym session 1 hour prior to getting to the show.
I routinely do door frame pullups in my Dad's office just to bug him.
I climb 9/10's and boulder v2 (at least at my gym)
Friktion
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gamehendge
Dec 7, 2004, 11:34 PM
Post #79 of 86
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Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 398
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12-2 finger front side pull ups on a training board and I can go up the overhanging slat board (bruce lee board). Weight 130, sport 5.11c.,boulder v3/4
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moof
Dec 7, 2004, 11:56 PM
Post #80 of 86
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400
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Twice I've fallen on finger cracks and had my right index finger stay stuck with my entire body weight on it (I'm 200 lbs). Hurt like hell. The second time was only a week after the first time. it's been kind of stiff since.
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lordshockspeare
Dec 8, 2004, 12:06 AM
Post #81 of 86
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Registered: Aug 25, 2004
Posts: 116
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I just barely was able to close the #2 "captains of crush" the other day. It took a while before I was able to, like a couple months. I am close to being able to do a 1-arm and I can do only about fifteen pullups. (wide bar)(after climbing too). I'll try squeezeing my bathroom scale tonight. I've blown a tendon doing doorjam pullups so I don't do those anymore. All this doesn't translate all that well to climbing. I'm 5'11" and about 69kg. I climb at around V6-7 and can onsight 5.12a on those good days.
Another fun one, I don't know if its been mentioned yet, is squeezeing potatoes, cheaper than apples and suprisingly difficult.
cheers
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ikellen
Dec 8, 2004, 12:47 AM
Post #82 of 86
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Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 393
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I can hang on a door frame for about 4 seconds, and I can do two pullups on the door frame.
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pushsendnorcal
Dec 8, 2004, 3:31 AM
Post #83 of 86
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Registered: Jun 15, 2003
Posts: 207
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-Campus laddering using only my index and middle on large rung
-One-arm deadhang on large campus rung
-Can deadhang all my fingers individually excluding my pinky on a piece of webbing
-One-arm pull-up if I train for two weeks, the power just fades
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cliffmonkey2003
Dec 8, 2004, 3:42 AM
Post #84 of 86
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 191
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In reply to: Try this: Pick up your bathroom scale, hold it level, and squeeze. I got 260.
That's pretty strong John, is that with one hand or both? I was just tested when I started physical therapy on my arm. My right hand grip is about 100 pounds and my left is like 73 pounds. The doc tells me that there should only be about a 10% difference between the dominant and weak hand. I'm not real strong, but it seems that if you're using 2 hands and you're at 260, then with 130 per hand, that is pretty good. As for one finger pullups and that jazz, I haven't been able to use my hangboard in 4 months, but when I can, I don't think that is something I'd be striving for anyhow. Before my arm got gimpy, I could do like 20 pullups with all my fingers, sometimes more, but I can't do more than 4 or 5 at the moment.
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greyicewater
Dec 8, 2004, 1:10 PM
Post #85 of 86
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Registered: Dec 8, 2003
Posts: 419
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hmmm... i can campus off of two fingered pockets, but only once out of fear of injury...
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dynosore
Dec 8, 2004, 1:18 PM
Post #86 of 86
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Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768
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How bad am I?
I couldn't get the lid of the jelly, so I gave it to my 11 year old daughter. She smiled and opened it.
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