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Looking Glass gathering Nov. 15/16
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Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 3, 2003, 7:08 PM
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Looking Glass gathering Nov. 15/16
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****UPDATE****

Looks like it's on for the 15/16. Don't expect it to be very organized at all! bring a tent and your own food.

Plan on camping at the fish hatchery (directions graciously provided by nbrown at the bottom of this page)

i'm not too familiar w/the area but if someone wants to check out a nearby spot I am game...


nbrown


Nov 3, 2003, 7:22 PM
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I'm good for either weekend. so whatever the majority is I'll go then.


scclimber


Nov 4, 2003, 8:21 PM
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either is good for me.


afiveonbelay


Nov 5, 2003, 3:44 PM
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I'm in for the 22nd. Anybody pm cchsclimber? she started all this.


travelingcoloradoclimber


Nov 5, 2003, 5:51 PM
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15 and 16th sounds good to me; where, when ect?


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 5, 2003, 7:50 PM
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15 and 16th sounds good to me; where, when ect?

never been, can you help me work out those details??? can you make it the wknd after since two ppl said they could only do it then? I doubt i will get out of work in time to head up friday - unless osmeone gives me directions good enough to find my way in the dark.. if that doesn't happen then i can be there early sat... i guess i'd rather go and set up camp late friday. let me know


bumblie


Nov 5, 2003, 8:07 PM
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I'm planning on being there for climbing on Saturday, the 15th.

If we camp at the fish hatchery on Friday, it's easy find at night. All well marked, paved roads. :D


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 5, 2003, 8:11 PM
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I'm planning on being there for climbing on Saturday, the 15th.

If we camp at the fish hatchery on Friday, it's easy find at night. All well marked, paved roads. :D

i'm too redneck to take kindly to paved roads!!! if you think it's the best/most convenient place to camp, we can meet there.... so... do you?

oh and also, if there's enough room....


buzzard


Nov 5, 2003, 8:40 PM
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I can make it. Just need to know when and where. All I have is a harness and shoes.


Partner xcel360


Nov 5, 2003, 9:05 PM
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if it's the 22/23 then count me in, otherwise i dun think it'll add up....


Partner costellobr


Nov 5, 2003, 9:27 PM
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i can do either weekend. been a while since i climbed there.


travelingcoloradoclimber


Nov 5, 2003, 11:42 PM
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I will only be able to climb the 15, 16 weekend (Plus 12th through 18 if anyone wants to climb during the week!!) If someone can leave directions( I have the Rock n' Road Atlas so I can get to the craggs, I just don't know the local camp scene) I be there!! Thanks


nbrown


Nov 6, 2003, 12:12 AM
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Ok directions are if you are coming from the south you would take I-85 all the way to Greenville then get off on exit 42 go straight on it till you get to the first road on the right which will say exit 1 or 15 (there is a toll road right off the exit that says it goes to Columbia don't take it) take a left off that road and you will be on Hwy. 25 going North. Stay on Hwy. 25 till you get to Traveler's Rest and there will be a sign for Hwy. 276 North take it. stay on it all the way when you get to Brevard 276 will make a turn right in downtown turn right and when you see Pizza Hut on your left take a left. Go down that road and when it forks take the left fork the Fish Hatchery will be on your left right before the gravel road.


nbrown


Nov 6, 2003, 12:23 AM
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Once in the Fish Hatchery parking lot go tho the far left side the farthest away from the building and there will be a trail and I think the biggest campground is after the little bridge on the trail but it is not very far from the parking lot may 100 yards or so. and that campground puts us 10 minutes from the south face trail and not much farther from the others but hope to see a lot of people there.


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 6, 2003, 1:58 AM
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In reply to:
Once in the Fish Hatchery parking lot go tho the far left side the farthest away from the building and there will be a trail and I think the biggest campground is after the little bridge on the trail but it is not very far from the parking lot may 100 yards or so. and that campground puts us 10 minutes from the south face trail and not much farther from the others but hope to see a lot of people there.

thanks for the directions

glen: i will see you up there the wknd after thanksgiving, hopefully..


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 6, 2003, 3:09 AM
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Once in the Fish Hatchery parking lot go tho the far left side the farthest away from the building and there will be a trail and I think the biggest campground is after the little bridge on the trail but it is not very far from the parking lot may 100 yards or so. and that campground puts us 10 minutes from the south face trail and not much farther from the others but hope to see a lot of people there.

wait do you mean ten minutes walking or do we have to load up cars again?

hopefully many people will show but i doubt there are that many dedicated enough to make a haul in cold temps... hope it doesn't rain, eh>


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 6, 2003, 2:40 PM
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what else is nearby?? if there is a large group, sport may be a better option for most people. is there a decent sport crag in driving distance?


Partner xcel360


Nov 6, 2003, 3:16 PM
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i'm not sure if it's any good or not, cuz i've only seen it from a distance, but cedar mtn looks like it might have a few routes on it. dun quote me on this, but like i said it might be something right down the road from looking glass. good luck

<=glen=>


nbrown


Nov 6, 2003, 6:19 PM
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There are no real sport climbing areas in NC unless you count Rumbling Bald which has sport routes but only above 5.12.


The camping area that I was talking about is just the biggest that is close by. If we have a smaller group the we can camp just about anywhere but the big one is about 10 minutes driving distance but only because of the gravel road.


nbrown


Nov 6, 2003, 6:20 PM
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Cedar Rock is also mostly trad I have never climbed there but I heard it was awesome but it is close to Looking Glass and will have not even half of the crowd.


bumblie


Nov 6, 2003, 7:13 PM
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Rumbling Bald has one or two bolted 5.9s. A trad 5.7 or either of 2 sport 5.10s puts you on a ledge at the base of two very pleasant sport 5.8s. There are a number of bolted 5.10s. Lakeview is a classic.

I heard a rumor that a section of Cedar Rock has a multipitch bolted 5.6.

FYI On many of the moderates at the south face of Looking Glass, people just do the first pitch and the belays are spacious i.e. rat's ass, second coming, so doing TRs is not that big of a deal.


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 6, 2003, 9:38 PM
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Rumbling Bald has one or two bolted 5.9s. A trad 5.7 or either of 2 sport 5.10s puts you on a ledge at the base of two very pleasant sport 5.8s. There are a number of bolted 5.10s. Lakeview is a classic.

I heard a rumor that a section of Cedar Rock has a multipitch bolted 5.6.

FYI On many of the moderates at the south face of Looking Glass, people just do the first pitch and the belays are spacious i.e. rat's ass, second coming, so doing TRs is not that big of a deal.

excellent news. hey let me ask you this: which is the best guide for NC?? i know i saw one in VA that i wanted to nab but then i come down to georgia and i don't see it. i bought this other one that looks unfamiliar.

thanks for the information above, as well...


scclimber


Nov 6, 2003, 9:46 PM
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the newest guide is Selected Climbs in North Carolina. it has some newer trails and much more info as for route description. the older guide is the climber's guide to north carolina by thomas kelly, i believe. this book doesn't include rumbling bald.


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 6, 2003, 10:28 PM
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In reply to:
the newest guide is Selected Climbs in North Carolina. it has some newer trails and much more info as for route description. the older guide is the climber's guide to north carolina by thomas kelly, i believe. this book doesn't include rumbling bald.

okay i guess i got the new one. will you be down for the 15th?


scclimber


Nov 7, 2003, 1:54 AM
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i'm hoping to be there both days. worst case senario, i will get there after lunch on sat and stay till sun night.


afiveonbelay


Nov 7, 2003, 3:25 AM
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Get both guides. The Kelley is more complete within certain crags but has a terrible binding and cover which always tears off. I make photcopies and carry those along. The new Shull guide has a great binding and tough cover, cg graphics on the topos, different action shots, covers Rumbling Bald, drops more obscure places, and does unfortunately miss some good climbs. It does have a new climb at LG between Peregrine and Sunset Crack called Sensimilla Sunset 5.9+. It looks like a yummy line with a bolted belay stance after a bulge that I thought looked tennish.

The south face trail head is 5 minute drive up the RH dirt road fork past the fish hatchery. There is also camping sites in the little cove below this wide spot and also on a nice flat spot 15 min up the trail.

SPORT? In western NC? There may be bolted lines but if you are going to climb the Glass you better have an arsenal of tri-cams, long, long runners, and iron guts.

I'm still trying to get there for the weekend of the 22nd for anybody who won't be there on the 15th. Unfortunately after the 12th I will have poor internet communication. Look for the redneck jeep with FL tags. Don't be afraid to give me a howdy. Going to spend a week at NRG in WV.

I know the Glass well and am getting goose bumps, chills, butterflies in the stomach thinking about slab, slab slab.

ps Cedar Rock is STIFF!

Greg


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 9, 2003, 12:56 PM
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hey while i'm here... is there any specific gear that i should load up on before i head up? i hear there are lots of horiz. placements so pink and red and brown tricams??

anything else? i think i only have three 48" slings...


tradpuppy


Nov 9, 2003, 1:31 PM
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A standard rack beefed up with extra TCU's and various other small to midsize stuff will suffice. There really is nothing particularly odd about the rack you need for LG, no matter what others might tell you. When doing Peregrine a few years ago, I arrived at the 2nd pitch belay to discover my partner had partially constructed the anchor with homemade gear, which consisted of sections of metal pipe he had fashioned into passive nuts when he was a poor college student. He even had this big block of wood he used as a large "hex". No kidding. The best part was when one guy in the party next to us on the Nose said, "you mean you don't have bolts to tie into?" Apparently, he had already been lulled into thinking every climb he would encounter thereafter would have nice shiny Fixes at every belay.


bumblie


Nov 10, 2003, 4:28 PM
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Weather forecast for next Saturday - Hi 51 / Sunny. :D


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 10, 2003, 10:46 PM
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Hmmmm......

definitley a possibilty. How many peeps are showing??

no idea, but as long as there is one w/o a partner, i'm golden...


climbhigh2005


Nov 10, 2003, 10:52 PM
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Hey guys!! Well it looks like Melissa isn't going to be able to make it! I've over booked myself ad now its paying off! I was really looking forward to meeting all you people, but now we are just gonna have to plan another gathering sometime!! I feel bad cause I started the wohle thing and wont be attending, but make sure you think of me while you are climbing and climb a hard one for mee! =) And please PM me everyone so I can try to meet ya someone else sometime... or even there on a different date!! climb hard guys and have fun! peace!
Melissa


nbrown


Nov 11, 2003, 12:15 AM
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I'll be there. I'm ready to go now. I'll probably be able to get there saturday morning around 9:00 a.m. or so since I have to work friday night.


nbrown


Nov 11, 2003, 12:15 AM
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I'll be there. I'm ready to go now. I'll probably be able to get there saturday morning around 9:00 a.m. or so since I have to work friday night.


wrenrunner


Nov 11, 2003, 1:58 AM
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Hey guys, i can't wait!!!! "climberdayun" and i will be there. we might be on the south face, but we'll also be on the nose. anyone up for sensemilia sunset???? (.9+) Look for a 16 year old and seventeen year old!!! c ya'll there!!!! :D


wrenrunner


Nov 11, 2003, 2:05 AM
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Hey guys, i can't wait!!!! "climberdayun" and i will be there. we might be on the south face, but we'll also be at the nose. anyone up for sensemilia sunset???? (.9+) Look for a 16 and 17 year old. O yea.... if you meet people (of course!! :wink: ) while ur up there, make sure to tell em' ur on rc.com, because it'll be hard to tell. I've never really met any people from online while climbing,even though i climb a ton!!! c- ya'll up there!!!!!!

Later :D


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 11, 2003, 2:28 AM
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I'll be there. I'm ready to go now. I'll probably be able to get there saturday morning around 9:00 a.m. or so since I have to work friday night.

you showin up by your lonesome?? do you want me to wait around for some easy single pitch trad on the southface?


ncclimber


Nov 11, 2003, 3:17 AM
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HAve fun guys. I won't see any of you unless you make the hike to the north face. horses and hogs for sat. and a speed ascent of Glass Menagerie on Sun. Just did the brain wall last weekend. Any of you Aid?


scclimber


Nov 11, 2003, 2:04 PM
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i will be there around 2 or 3 on sat. i'm bringing along a friend that has only climbed a few times in a gym.


nbrown


Nov 12, 2003, 3:55 AM
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In reply to:
you showin up by your lonesome?? do you want me to wait around for some easy single pitch trad on the southface?

Yeah I'll be coming up alone. What time/day are you coming up? I have to work Friday night but I might be able to drive up Friday night if I get off in time. We'll just have to figure out where to camp and all which depends on how many people. If not many people there is a great site at the South Face parking lot which would be better.


tenn_dawg


Nov 12, 2003, 5:06 AM
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Me and bumblie are going to be there on friday night.

I really don't know ANY other details though. I don't even know how to get there, or where we're camping.

Where am I?

traivs


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 12, 2003, 1:31 PM
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I really don't know ANY other details though. I don't even know how to get there, or where we're camping.

Where am I?

i feel the same way... hopefully i will get up there on friday, but if i do you guys will probably be asleep already. hopefully nbrown's directions will help me. the weather looks prime, though. i'll be the guy in the white ford blasting bluegrass... have a safe trip!


goldencrowbar


Nov 12, 2003, 3:09 PM
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Don't know how to get to LG? Take I-40 east, get off at maggie valley on 276, after about 7 miles you will come to a red light, turn left go up the hill then down a long one. At the next red light you will turn right. Watch your signs, because you're staying on 276. Follow 276 on into the town of Waynesville. When this road finally dead ends (at Main Street) make a right and follow it thru downtown Waynesville, As soon as yoe start to come out of the main buiseness district you will need to make a left. (WATCH YOUR SIGNS! your staying on 276,) Then simply follow 276 thru bethel,etc, go across the mountain, past Looking Glass falls, then turn right at the fish hatchery sign. easy.

It's less than an hour from the maggie exit


nbrown


Nov 12, 2003, 4:11 PM
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Yeah everybody camp at the first big camping area before you get to the little bridge that way it will be easy to find each other. If I get there Saturday morning we can find each other pretty easy.


scclimber


Nov 12, 2003, 4:17 PM
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which big camping area before which bridge?


nbrown


Nov 12, 2003, 4:20 PM
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In reply to:
which big camping area before which bridge?
when you get to the Fish Hatchery go to the back of the parking lot and there is a trail, walk down it for like 20 yds. and look left there is a big clearing beside a small river.


bumblie


Nov 12, 2003, 4:36 PM
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How about a head count of who is going and when they're getting there.

I'm getting there on Friday around 7:00 or 7:30. Climbing Saturday and heading home Saturday night.

If no one (besides Travis) is showing on Friday evening, then I'm camping up past The Nose area parking lot. However, if people are planning to show on Friday, I want to make sure no one is left hanging.

Couple of bits of info:

There are several nice car camping spots in the area. I've never camped at The South Face parking area. It's heavily impacted and frequently noisy (so I've heard).

This is all natural forest. Once you enter, the only structures you see are part of the national forest service. It's very aesthetic. However, a big grocery store is only 15 minutes away and they do sell beer.

The latest forecast is Saturday - Sunny 58/36, Sunday - Sunny 64/41
It doesn't get much better.

Post up people.


scclimber


Nov 12, 2003, 4:45 PM
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i will be there about 2 or 3 on saturday and staying till sunday night.


nbrown


Nov 12, 2003, 4:55 PM
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I'll be there probably Sat. morning stay till Sunday afternoon. So that makes 4 people. I'll camp wherever everybody else camps so I don't care.


Partner one900johnnyk


Nov 12, 2003, 11:18 PM
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i will camp wherever (probably the first place i can find on sat night if i even have energy to pitch a tent, otherwise, my truck) ... i am shooting for showing up late late friday night. coming from atlanta after work which i'm trying to leave early, but you know how that goes...


tenn_dawg


Nov 14, 2003, 8:08 PM
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I'm leaving right now. I'll bring some extra beer.

And some climbing gear perhaps...

See y'all there.

Travis


climbhigh2005


Nov 16, 2003, 11:09 PM
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So, how was the trip guys??


bumblie


Nov 17, 2003, 1:09 PM
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Travis and I had an adventure filled, loooong day. :roll: Epics always make you appreciate the little things in life. :)

We heard a bunch of people over on the South Face. Sounded like they were having fun. Unfortunately, I couldn't stick around and party with them on Saturday night.


nbrown


Nov 18, 2003, 7:07 PM
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We had a good time over on the south face we should do that again.


tenn_dawg


Nov 18, 2003, 7:10 PM
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Sooo, is there anything easy at Looking Glass? I'm feeling rather worked, If I go back I want to do about a thousand feet of easy ground, and secure my mojo.

Good freakin day though. I'm considering typing up a TR, but to protect the guilty, I may keep it private, hahahahahaa.

Travis


bumblie


Nov 18, 2003, 7:19 PM
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I may not know where you live, but I know what your truck looks like. :evil:

:D :D :D :wink:


tenn_dawg


Nov 18, 2003, 7:26 PM
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I may not know where you live, but I know what your truck looks like. :evil:

:D :D :D :wink:

I'll beam you an encrypted top secret stamped copy. Highly confidential...hahahahah


goldencrowbar


Nov 18, 2003, 7:29 PM
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In reply to:
Sooo, is there anything easy at Looking Glass?

.

Travis

The first time I took my son in law climbing, we did that 5.4 next to Lichen or Not. A 5.5


nbrown


Nov 21, 2003, 12:05 AM
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Sooo, is there anything easy at Looking Glass? Travis

Plenty on the South Face.


nbrown


Nov 21, 2003, 12:06 AM
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Sooo, is there anything easy at Looking Glass? Travis
You should go up The Nose or Sundial Cracks. Both 5.8 w/ plenty of gear and both 4 pithes that go to the top.


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