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scubasnyder
Dec 12, 2003, 8:47 PM
Post #26 of 36
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when i first started climbing trad, i was a bit scared to trust my life to stoppers and cams, and placed them every 5 feet, but now as i progressed i place them less and less, which is probably bad, but if it is a hard move i place 2 stopers or a cam or something i dont know, its all preference i guess, you only get better by doing it though.
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tedc
Dec 12, 2003, 9:33 PM
Post #27 of 36
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In reply to: .... how do I progress into trad climbing without killing myself ?...
2 words: BELAY SLAVE.
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sspssp
Dec 13, 2003, 12:35 AM
Post #28 of 36
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In reply to: Another method is to practice "French free," (apologies to any French people). Tie in on TR. Carry a full trad rack. Don't use any handhold that wasn't placed by you. Oh yeah, wear a helmet, unless you want the BD logo tatooed on your forehead. j_ung
French free, or full on aid is a good way to learn about placements (if it doesn't hold body weight/bounce testing, it sure ain't going to hold a fall). This can be safely done on TR.
I second the wear a helmet and I would add eye-protection (a decent pair of shades is enough) and look down (not at your piece). When a stopper pops out, it can really come flying out and do serious damage if it hits you in the face.
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gipsy
Dec 18, 2003, 8:48 PM
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The thing that helped me the most with trad leading was to 2nd folks much better than me and clean. Once I was comfortable w/ the cleaning, THEY cleaned the majority of the route, then I TR'd and placed gear (say you'd use 10 - 12 pieces of pro; they lead, then you lower while they pull all but "x" # of pro; you climb, placing the appropriate pro as you go (they give you only what you need to "fill in" the route); then you get critiqued - the fun part - HAHA!) Then, if you're a lucky as I was, you get to go back up, clean, then rap off. Doing that over and over really helped. It added a lot to reading the books that haave already been recommended.
As for the whole falling thing, it's gonna happen. Building that aspect of climbing into your routine is as important as anything else that you do. Learning how to minimize the impact of a fall on yourself something everyone needs to learn, and as crazy as it sounds, if falling can be "second nature", then you are less likely to be hurt as badly than if you are flailing.
Good luck, and BE SAFE!
G
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hoofers_andy
Dec 18, 2003, 9:07 PM
Post #31 of 36
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Registered: Dec 1, 2003
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learn to trad climb:
step one: second
step two: clean
step three: second
step four: clean
step five: second
step six: clean
step seven: repeat steps one through six
step eight: do it all again
step nine: lead
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bustinmins
Dec 26, 2003, 3:21 PM
Post #32 of 36
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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I would recommend several books:
1. Anchors
2. More Anchors
3. Moutaineering: Freedom of the Hills
4. Self Rescue
I would place lots of pro in small rocky areas in and around your area. You may not have a lot to play with but at least try.
With experienced help, learn how to set up a rappel (on the ground) and also how to use the SRENE concept you'll read about.
Then when you feel ready - take an experienced person out with you and follow them a couple of times or get a guide. Believe me it is worth your life! :)
Find a single pitch trad route that is WELL BELOW your lead so you don't have to think about the climb and can focus on the pro placements. Find a route that has bolt anchors at the top and then climb this route over and over with a different pro mindset as you go. For example: "On this climb I want to place as many nuts as possible" "On this climb I want to place as many hexes as possible". "On this climb I'm going to place as many cams as possible." This will teach you to see the route differently each time. Also when you ascend each time, look above each placement for your next placement and then get there. Don't just climb and wait for something to appear. That may happen but it keeps you short sighted. :) Think about this: What will happen if I fall here? Will I crater? Will I pass my second who is belaying me from the edge and thus take them over with me? Is this a traverse? If so protect before and after each hard move so that your second is safe as he or she cleans the route. These things you have to think about and they don't pop out of books but come from experience. I'm an airline pilot and one thing we say is that good experience comes from living through bad decisions. :) Climbing is no different. You will make mistakes. You have to learn from each climb. There are lessons on each one. The key to remember is that you can't make many mistakes at all on the rock. There is too much at stake and some things have to be solid before you even go on day one.
I would like to second the opinion that this forum is a good place to pick up hints but you have to have a beginning knowledge to know which ones are good or not. Find a good partner who has experience or get a guide to learn. If you can, second quite a bit as that will help you immensely.
Peace,
JD
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latesia
Dec 26, 2003, 4:39 PM
Post #33 of 36
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Registered: Nov 16, 2003
Posts: 6
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You might try going to Ringer Park in Brighton. There is some "ledge" rock there at the back side of the hill. I don't know if there are any cracks, since I lived there long before I started climbing and didn't take note of things like that but at least there is a good view of the City. Also Franklin Park has some ledge in it.
I'm a beginning trad leader also, but would recommend adding down-climbing to your list of skills to develop. Lead an easy route and then down climb it. Its a good skill if you have to back down and you can re-evaluate your placements on the way down.
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freakystyley
Jan 3, 2004, 2:00 AM
Post #34 of 36
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Registered: Aug 19, 2003
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I like that "french free" method - in fact I am going to take a guy out and do just that. he is ready and able - but lacks the "trad head." down climbed off a route the other day before the crux - an easy 5.6 that he could have freed. TR'ing with a couple feet of slack and let him "aid" up with a rack sounds like just the thing to learn about placements.
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stirnie
Jan 10, 2004, 2:21 AM
Post #35 of 36
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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A good thing to practice is setting up hanging belays in your gym. The problem is getting the owner to let you. This really helped my get used to being crowded and with some of the confusion of an anchor. Doing it in the gym is nice because you don't have to worry about placing gear, you can just concentrate on technique and get better at running the belay smoothly. If you have questions on how to do this, I am sure there are more than enough people willing to help.
-Stirnie
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hosh
Jan 10, 2004, 4:10 PM
Post #36 of 36
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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Second a lot. That's how I got into sport and then trad. I just seconded and cleaned every pitch I could until I was pretty sure of what a good placement looked like. I took a good look at every peice of gear before ICleaned it, too, to make sure the placement was bomber. Find someone in your area who climbs well and see if they'll let you be a belay slave while they stich up a few cracks. Then just get on the second and clean, clean, clean. Pretty soon, you'll start to get a feel for what's what. But even with all the seconding I did, my first trad lead was scary as hell and I had the elvis shake in my leg for the whole climb! It was hard for me to learn to trust the trad gear.
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