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rope in mouth for clipping
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offwidthclimber


Dec 13, 2003, 6:08 AM
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Re: rope in mouth for clipping [In reply to]
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Wow...

English majors or just dorks?


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Dec 13, 2003, 6:49 AM
Post #27 of 37 (4004 views)
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Re: rope in mouth for clipping [In reply to]
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[quote:552866527a="forbin"][quote:552866527a="halcyon"][quote:552866527a="b_fost"]... starts to affect (effect?) ...[/quote:552866527a]

You were right the first time. It's affect. Kudos on clarifying in case your [size=18:552866527a][b:552866527a]grammer[/b:552866527a][/size:552866527a] was wrong. I see way too much bad [size=18:552866527a][b:552866527a]grammer[/b:552866527a] [/size:552866527a]on this site, and sometimes it makes me a little nuts. Ya know?

p.s. If you say 'Your' when you mean 'you are', I'll eat your face.[/quote:552866527a]

Halcyon, risking having my face eaten, I believe you are incorrect about the usage of 'affect' versus 'effect.' A quotation (not to be confused with quote) from Britannica.com:

Usage: The confusion of the verbs affect and effect is not only quite common but has a long history. Effect was used in place of [i:552866527a]affect[/i:552866527a] as early as 1494 and in place of [i:552866527a]affect[/i:552866527a] as early as 1652. If you think you want to use the verb effect but are not certain, check the definitions in this dictionary. The noun affect is sometimes mistakenly used for effect. Except when your topic is psychology, you will seldom need the noun affect.

I am also quite disturbed by the poor [size=18:552866527a][b:552866527a]grammer[/b:552866527a] [/size:552866527a]on this site. The constant misuse of there, their, and they're is like fingernails on a chalkboard.

alex[/quote:552866527a]


[i:552866527a]here's[/i:552866527a] a suggestion: if yer gonna put on yer [i:552866527a]grammar nazi [/i:552866527a]hats, learn to spell [size=18:552866527a][i:552866527a]grammar[/i:552866527a] [/size:552866527a]. poor [size=18:552866527a][i:552866527a]grammar[/i:552866527a][/size:552866527a] makes [i:552866527a]me[/i:552866527a] nuts, too. :wink:


overlord


Dec 13, 2003, 9:39 AM
Post #28 of 37 (4010 views)
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Re: rope in mouth for clipping [In reply to]
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i sometimes use my mouth to hold rope for those long clips.


b_fost


Dec 13, 2003, 1:06 PM
Post #29 of 37 (4008 views)
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maybe it would due halcyon and mtngeo gud to use a cupple tooths.


jipstyle


Dec 13, 2003, 6:45 PM
Post #30 of 37 (4008 views)
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Re: rope in mouth for clipping [In reply to]
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In reply to:
You were right the first time.
You were correct the first time.

In reply to:
Kudos on clarifying in case your grammer was wrong.

The word is spelled grammar. The sentence itself is a travesty.

In reply to:
I see way too much bad grammer on this site, and sometimes it makes me a little nuts. Ya know?

I suggest you stop being so hard on yourself. The more you practice writing properly, the easier it will become.

In reply to:
p.s. If you say 'Your' when you mean 'you are', I'll eat your face.

P.S. If you correct someone's grammar in a post which appears to have been written by an elementary school student, I'll correct it for you.


halcyon


Dec 14, 2003, 8:13 PM
Post #31 of 37 (4008 views)
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Re: rope in mouth for clipping [In reply to]
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Wow... vicious...

I'm never surprised when someone is singled out in a flame fest on this site. First off, spelling is different than grammAr, so you cant use that against me. As for the original grammar issue (affect vs. effect) I was talking about the verb affect. I'm not going to argue any more about it because it's stupid. The fact of the mater is that all I was doing was letting b_frost know he was right, and congratulating him for wanting to correctly get his point across. If by doing that you can get attacked by all sides, this site has some major social issues to work out. I'm probably not going out of my way to compliment another on this site again though.


valeberga


Dec 15, 2003, 1:44 AM
Post #32 of 37 (4008 views)
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Re: rope in mouth for clipping [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Wow... vicious...

lol

yeah (failure to capitalize) we got (oh I'm sorry, have) some serious dudes here. Dropping web site references and everything (sentence fragment, absence of punctuation)

Screw it I'm done with English... Siempre es mejor tener la cuerda en tu boca, para que puedes saber el sabor de la tierra, los polvos de aluminio y magnesio, y la grasa de tus manos y las manos de tu companero. Por eso siempre escalo con mi cuerda en mi boca, porque es mejor disfrutar la experiencia completa que estar seguro. En todo caso, el muere es inevitable y el sabor de una cuerda madura vale mas que solo una vida. (Me perdonaran la falta de acentos.)


rockingnyc


Jan 2, 2004, 5:34 AM
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Re: rope in mouth for clipping [In reply to]
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As long as you can spit it out durring a fall, I really don't see a problem with it.


trackhead


Jan 29, 2004, 8:31 AM
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Friend of mine fell making a clip on a trad route. Ripped out his two front teeth. Looked all over the place for his teeth and couldn't find them. I took him to the emergency dentist, and later found his teeth in his pack. Somehow they fell right into it lying at the base of the route.

Needless to say, I never put the rope in my mouth while clipping. His head snapped back pretty good, although he said the extraction was painless.


kathy


Jan 29, 2004, 11:35 AM
Post #35 of 37 (4008 views)
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Re: rope in mouth for clipping [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Needless to say, I never put the rope in my mouth while clipping. His head snapped back pretty good, although he said the extraction was painless.

so what are the alternatives? (Esp. when cliping at waist level is not an option)
K


ra


Feb 4, 2004, 10:00 PM
Post #36 of 37 (4008 views)
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Re: rope in mouth for clipping [In reply to]
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Is there any other way to do it? I think we shouldn't do it but can't find a better choice.


okieterry


Feb 4, 2004, 11:17 PM
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Re: rope in mouth for clipping [In reply to]
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I do it all the time and don't even think about it! Usually I try to reach down and grab just enough rope to pull it up and clip in one motion but sometimes it gets desperate and I just grab it with my teeth. One time in Yosemite it did cause a cap that was on one of my front teeth to come off. It was cool walking around with a missing tooth and duct taped glasses for a couple of months. Later on (with Superdiamonddave) I wacked it again with a #4 camalot and broke the cap and post out.

Back to Quarry Daze at OKC Rocks. It is my favorite inside route. I have been working it for about a year and still haven't got it. The hardest moves to me are near the top. It was probably me that gave you the 5.13b rating. A couple of guys from colorado who climb that grade regularly gave it that (and they didn't get it either!).

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