|
campo
Feb 19, 2004, 4:38 AM
Post #1 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 212
|
Though it may be hard to put a finger on it, I was wondering what peoples opinions are concerning the best overall SPORT climbing area in the United States (I know it is hard, when you take in all the variables). Take into account crowds, quality and quantity of routes, etc... My personal favorite is Rumney, but I am not all that well traveled.
|
|
|
|
|
campo
Feb 19, 2004, 4:45 AM
Post #2 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 212
|
Notice my great spelling..figures both my parents were english professors! :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
sbclimber
Feb 19, 2004, 4:49 AM
Post #3 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2003
Posts: 444
|
probably too tough to pick one.
I'm sure you will hear Smith Rock, Owens River Gorge, Rifle, The Red River Gorge, Rumney, MAYBE Red Rocks.
Virgin River Gorge maybe if you are a crazy hardman.
Having been to Smith, Owens, Rifle, and Red Rocks, I would say for just sport I LOVE Owens River Gorge. I've never had a problem with crowds, and one side of the gorge is always in the sun/shade (depending on how hot it is, follow the sun or the shade all day)
also sooo many routes within walking distance of eachother.
Mt. Williamson is nice to, but maybe not so much on a national scale.
|
|
|
|
|
dynoguy
Feb 19, 2004, 4:54 AM
Post #4 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2003
Posts: 730
|
Of course I have to vote for Smith because it has become my second home
But I give a STRONG second to the RED
|
|
|
|
|
drkodos
Feb 19, 2004, 5:08 AM
Post #5 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 21, 2002
Posts: 2935
|
Red River Gorge
New River Gorge
[violet]Wild Iris[/violet]
Rifle
[indigo]Rumney[/indigo]
[brown]Mt Charleston[/brown]
Maple Canyon
|
|
|
|
|
couloir
Feb 19, 2004, 5:08 AM
Post #6 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2001
Posts: 304
|
Isn't "Best Sport Climbing Area" just an oxymoron. Well I would have to vote for Yosemite or Sam's Throne, because there's so many trad routes between the sport routes.
|
|
|
|
|
crankenstein
Feb 19, 2004, 5:29 AM
Post #7 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 20, 2002
Posts: 164
|
Depends on what you want out of a sport climbing area. If you want sheer difficulty then Rifle gets my vote. But if aesthetics are important and you like more moderate difficulty then I vote for City of Rocks. I'm surprised that no one else mentioned it. It's one of the most beautiful areas and the variety can't be beat, especially if you do trad also. Another noteworthy place in the aesthetics category would have to be Mt. Lemmon. I guess I could also throw in a sentimental favorite that is not well known, that being Reimer's Ranch in Texas.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Feb 19, 2004, 6:01 AM
Post #8 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
Gorges du Rive Rouge, Kentucky
|
|
|
|
|
cfnubbler
Feb 19, 2004, 3:41 PM
Post #9 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
|
The New.
Rifle.
The Red.
Smith is contention too, though Smith style climbing is not really "En vogue" these days.
I know this will stir up all sorts of Eastern sporto insecurity, but as an eastern climber who's climbed at all of the above areas, I can safely say Rumney doesn't deserve to be mentioned in the same breath as these others. Popularity and hype aside, it's not even the best sport climbing in New England.
On the national scene, Rumney is a good 2nd tier area with one legitimately great crag (Waimea). But put Waimea at any of the above areas and it would be a single good wall in a sea of great climbing.
Sorry is that ruffles feathers, but that's the way I see it.
-Nubbler
|
|
|
|
|
bighigaz
Feb 19, 2004, 3:45 PM
Post #10 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 696
|
Here's one for AZ: MT. LEMMON is definately up there with the best. Several thousand routes, many within a mile from the road, and plenty of undeveloped potential.
Though Lemmon is MY personal favorite, there is SOOOOO much more out there... all I can say is TRAVEL, TRAVEL, TRAVEL!!! (Oh, and Climb, Climb, Climb, of course!)
|
|
|
|
|
maracas
Feb 19, 2004, 3:48 PM
Post #11 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 114
|
I have only been to Red Rocks and Rifle from that list, and I prefer Red Rocks.
A little question, if I was a wuss and would like to climb "comfortably placed bolts" sport 5.10 to 5.12a, would that change the order?
|
|
|
|
|
socalbolter
Feb 19, 2004, 4:01 PM
Post #12 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2002
Posts: 796
|
my vote would be for the red river gorge if only one area could be picked.
many of the others listed above would be close seconds though, with the exception of smith rocks. historical significance aside, smith is no where near the caliber of the other areas nor does it have the diversity.
|
|
|
|
|
campo
Feb 19, 2004, 4:08 PM
Post #13 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 212
|
Just out of curiosity, what is the other sport climbing area in New England that beats Rumney. Ive been keeping my ears open, and as far as I know, there arent any other areas that offer the quality and quantity of routes that Rumney does. Anyone know of any other New England Sport Climbing areas?
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Feb 19, 2004, 4:09 PM
Post #14 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
Of all the places I have been (climbed in more than 10 states so far), Shelf Road in Colorado. I just love that place.
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Feb 19, 2004, 4:19 PM
Post #15 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
In reply to: Just out of curiosity, what is the other sport climbing area in New England that beats Rumney. Ive been keeping my ears open, and as far as I know, there arent any other areas that offer the quality and quantity of routes that Rumney does. Anyone know of any other New England Sport Climbing areas?
I could tell you - but I'd have to kill you....
|
|
|
|
|
flagpolewizard
Feb 19, 2004, 4:39 PM
Post #16 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 10, 2004
Posts: 68
|
unless I just missed it, how did no one mention joshua tree, just for the sheer volume of climbs it has, I doubt there are many areas, if any at all that can match the number of quality climbs, if you had a whole life time to climb I still don't think you could get it all done
I mean, yeah, jt sucks, stay away, its really hot and there are mean people there, climber beware, just stay away, packs of rabid coyotes ate someone last week, oh the horror of jt
|
|
|
|
|
rrrADAM
Feb 19, 2004, 4:43 PM
Post #17 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 19, 1999
Posts: 17553
|
In reply to: unless I just missed it, how did no one mention joshua tree, just for the sheer volume of climbs it has, I doubt there are many areas, if any at all that can match the number of quality climbs, if you had a whole life time to climb I still don't think you could get it all done I mean, yeah, jt sucks, stay away, its really hot and there are mean people there, climber beware, just stay away, packs of rabid coyotes ate someone last week, oh the horror of jt
Because while JTree has some "sport climbs", it is mainly a Trad Area and now a Bouldering Area also, and the thread asked for the best "sport climbing area". Even many of the bolt protected climbs at JTree are not "sport". There are over 3,000 Trad routes in Jtree, and probably less than 200 true sport climbs, and that is a large estimation I think.
Just like Tuolumne is a Trad Area, but does have some "sport climbs"... It is not a Sport Area.
|
|
|
|
|
jkarns
Feb 19, 2004, 4:46 PM
Post #18 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 13, 2003
Posts: 542
|
Just because Smith is not trendy should not take it out of the running. Personally I absolutely love the climbing there. There are endless sport routes with a lot of diversity. There just aren't many (any) super steep jugfests, like everyone seems to be after. There are loads of technical, thoughtful, precision-oriented climbs at a decent range of angles with plenty more room for development if anyone ever gets around to it.
|
|
|
|
|
cfnubbler
Feb 19, 2004, 4:48 PM
Post #19 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2003
Posts: 628
|
In reply to: Ive been keeping my ears open, and as far as I know, there arent any other areas that offer the quality and quantity of routes that Rumney does.
Quantity, no. Quality, yup. Look harder. There are published guidebooks which feature at least a couple New England sport areas that I prefer to Rumney. But then I prefer granite and its metamorphosed relatives to schist any day.
As for J-Tree, I wouldn't ever go there for a sport climbing trip. Don't get me wrong, I love the place, but it's the trad that put it on the map, not the relative handful of clip-ups.
-Nubbler
|
|
|
|
|
miuralover
Feb 19, 2004, 5:23 PM
Post #20 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 9, 2003
Posts: 106
|
In reply to: Just because Smith is not trendy should not take it out of the running. Personally I absolutely love the climbing there. There are endless sport routes with a lot of diversity. There just aren't many (any) super steep jugfests, like everyone seems to be after. There are loads of technical, thoughtful, precision-oriented climbs at a decent range of angles with plenty more room for development if anyone ever gets around to it.
I agree, this place has great sport routes at all grades. Vomit Launch (11b), Heinous Cling (12c), Agro Monkey (13b), Oxygen (13b, best route there)... the list goes on and on.
I've climbed in Red River Gorge (tons of steep routes), Rifle (tons of fun/tricky hard routes), Maple (soft grades, skin friendly, lots of climbing), Red Rocks (soft grades, fun routes) and several other places. In my opinion Rifle was the most fun so far, but I still have tons of places to go to. Wild Iris next!!!
|
|
|
|
|
easyclimber
Feb 20, 2004, 4:47 AM
Post #21 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2004
Posts: 25
|
Well i am a beginner so i cant say yo much. I have been to smith. it is fun there. I think any where is a great place to climb as long as you enjoy it.
|
|
|
|
|
din
Feb 20, 2004, 4:55 AM
Post #22 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2004
Posts: 496
|
rockreation.
|
|
|
|
|
dynamicpanda
Feb 27, 2004, 4:13 AM
Post #23 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 288
|
I've never been, but Obed and Foster Falls in Tennesse are supposedly really good. Im not sure if you can really count the New River Gorge as a sport crag, but I love the sport climbs that I have done there.
|
|
|
|
|
fredbob
Feb 27, 2004, 4:45 AM
Post #24 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 7, 2003
Posts: 455
|
For sport climbing, few places beat Rifle, steep, steep, technical, pumpy and physical; everything good sport climbing should be.
Smith is too slabby to be the best; and
Owens doesn't really have any hard stuff that isn't crimpy vertical stuff.
Red Rocks is too much fluff (most routes are way over-rated), but certainly fun.
Shelf Road is nice, but a bit chossy and not nearly steep enough.
And Josh? (You must be kidding!) Though it does actually have hundreds of sport routes now, most are not super steep and they are scattered all about amongst 6,000 trad routes. But, there are some sport routes there that are stellar and unlike most areas, the routes actually involve doing hard moves (not just lots of easy stuff without a rest).
|
|
|
|
|
yevquest
Feb 27, 2004, 5:10 AM
Post #25 of 71
(13023 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 71
|
Having climbed at most of the major sport climbing areas around the country, I think the answer is...it depends on what grades you're interested in and what grades your friends/partners want.
Some areas (Rifle) really don't have much in the way of easier routes while other areas have a good mix of hard and moderate routes throughout the areas.
Best Easy sport routes: Rumney, hands down. Lots of them, well bolted, and fairly thought provoking. The roadside areas can be crowded but there's lots of other places all over Rattlesnake Mtn. A good area for a mixed bag of grades.
Best 10's and easy 11's A random shout out goes to Horseshoe canyon in Arkansas. I was very pleasantly suprised at the quality of many of the moderate routes there. The harder routes weren't that great (feast wall excepted) but the 10's and easy 11's are excellent.
Best easy 12's. The Red. Great steep routes as well as some suprisingly technical routes hidden here and there.
Best hard routes: Rifle. period.
Best Multipitch: the Potrero. Some of the single pitch stuff is good too (Mileski Wall, Surf Bowl)
The New has some great routes but they're too spread out. Summersville has a great crag (the Coliseum) but the rest is ho-hum.
Charleston is beautful, a wild escape considering it's so close to Vegas but there was just too much glue and drilled pockets for me to put it on the list.
One area that I haven't been to is Maple so I can't comment on that. Maybe this summer I'll make it out there.
|
|
|
|
|
dynobelay
Feb 27, 2004, 5:17 AM
Post #26 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 73
|
My vote is Owens River Gorge. But that's mainly because it has hundreds of sport climbs of a grade that I can do; 5.9 through 5.11+. I'm too old or don't care to put out the effort for the harder grades.
|
|
|
|
|
a_scender
Feb 27, 2004, 5:19 AM
Post #27 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 25, 2004
Posts: 88
|
Lets not forget Shelf Road! I think shelf has the best climbing variety, from moderates to much harder, on great limestone. Year round climbing just adds a little bonus. I guess if your looking for fourteens though, then you'll have to hit rifle.
|
|
|
|
|
wonder1978
Feb 27, 2004, 5:55 AM
Post #28 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2002
Posts: 250
|
Allright,
I know a forum on rc.com is probably not the best place to advertise a less thread upon sport crag than Rumney in New England that's (on top) supposedly better, but I'd honestly really like to know, cause I would go there instead. I have no opinion about the other places, never been to them sadly. But I like Rumney, for what it's worth, sure hope it isn't the best there is, that would be sorta dissapointing. I still really wanna know about these N-E 'secret' sport crags, pretty please?
W.
|
|
|
|
|
rokklym
Feb 27, 2004, 6:07 AM
Post #29 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2001
Posts: 185
|
I've been to quite a few crags ( see my profile for a list ) and so far I think my favorite so far has been Wild Iris. Its all personal preference though. I just got back from Arizona and we climbed at Mt. Lemmon, Queen Creek and Jacks Canyon and I really didn't care for Mt Lemmon, but thats just me. I'm sure some people have a blast there but I didn't. Its a beautiful area though. And on the other hand, I had a blast at Jacks Canyon, which is an area which alot of people probably hate but I thought it was great.
The places I'd like to check out are Sinks Canyon, absolutely amazing canyon! Didn't get to climb there though.,Shelf Road, City of Rocks, and Spearfish canyon.
So far, heres my favorite Crags ( based on fun factor and willingness to go back )
1. Wild Iris
2. Jacks Canyon
3. Jackson Falls
4. RRG
5. NRG & Summersville Lake
6. Rushmore Needles
|
|
|
|
|
warloc
Feb 27, 2004, 8:19 AM
Post #30 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 1, 2003
Posts: 75
|
We had a forum such like this in the most visited climbing web-page in Spain last year. The result was far from reality, as most of the people said the best crag was the best one NEAR their home... :shock:
I wonder if that will happen or has already happened here
Have fun :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
krga20
Mar 3, 2004, 1:05 AM
Post #31 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 27, 2004
Posts: 71
|
I would have to say VRG and Mt. Clark...Both areas have outstanding, quality routes on superb rock. Damn hard though!!!
|
|
|
|
|
bouldering-bumm
Deleted
Mar 6, 2004, 1:49 AM
Post #32 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
I would say either Smith rock, OR, The Black Cliffs, ID, or Rifle, CO.
|
|
|
|
|
mbg
Mar 16, 2004, 12:47 AM
Post #33 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2003
Posts: 372
|
I'll throw a vote in for Penitente Canyon in SoCo. Yeah, the routes are short and nothing is super steep but I love it there. The crowds are small and the rock is solid; you'll be hard pressed to find better huecoed climbing in the Rockies. It's a mini Smith in a quiet setting. Penitente is simply beautiful place with a casual atmosphere and fun climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Mar 16, 2004, 1:18 AM
Post #34 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
(I haven't been to all of these, this is a collection of opinions from friends as well as myself):
In no particular order:
RRG
Rifle
Clark
VRG
Charleston
Smith
Runners up:
Rumney
Wild Iris / Sinks
NRG
Red Rocks
I think that Owen's, while popular, is far from the best. And putting stuff like Jack's Canyon or Williamson on a list of best sport areas in America is pretty funny... let's add Otay, New Jack City, High Desert and Malibu Canyon while we're at it...
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Mar 16, 2004, 1:26 AM
Post #35 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
In reply to: And Josh? (You must be kidding!) Though it does actually have hundreds of sport routes now, most are not super steep and they are scattered all about amongst 6,000 trad routes. But, there are some sport routes there that are stellar and unlike most areas, the routes actually involve doing hard moves (not just lots of easy stuff without a rest).
This is definitely true - the best sport routes at Jtree are world class routes, clean lines of weakness through the terrain, not just a line of bolts in a massively bolted cave or face. They are mostly entirely natural (some small use of glue dating back, not on newer routes, very little if any chipping). They tend to feature very difficult cruxes as well, as Randy mentioned, and the variation in climbing from route to route is much greater than at any sport crag I've been to.
However this just means that there are handful of excellent sport routes at Jtree. It's still a joke as far as sport climbing destinations go :)
|
|
|
|
|
xscimmiax
Mar 16, 2004, 3:47 AM
Post #36 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 20, 2004
Posts: 24
|
I don't really sport climb all that much, but from where I have been Owen's has been my favorite.
|
|
|
|
|
granut
Mar 17, 2004, 7:11 AM
Post #37 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 54
|
I'd have to say that Jack's canyon is on my list of favorites. I'm not a big fan of the steap routes there and stick to the vertical stuff... which are not drilled or glued from what I saw.
I think that Rifle is somewhat overated. You might as well be climbing at a gym with all the chalk and greased up holds.
Charleston is a beautiful place to climb but I could see how people could be sensitive to the drilled holds.
I'd say my favorite is Owens. You have everything from suberb 5.8's to great 5.12's. And many 5 star routes at all grades.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Mar 17, 2004, 7:24 AM
Post #38 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*This is definitely true - the best sport routes at Jtree are world class routes,*
There is not a single world class sport route anywhere in Southern California, let alone RubbleTree...I'm a sport climbing fanatic and I never go there, there is literally *nothing* overhanging which is the first requisite of a decent sport route
|
|
|
|
|
reedcrr
Mar 29, 2004, 8:06 AM
Post #39 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 26, 2004
Posts: 99
|
Ok the best is hard to determine for me...
Depends on my mood and my cash flow for the trip! Top Ten in no order, all of the different...all of them good!
1. Owens - Fun and loaded!
2. The Red - Good climbing, great pizza!
3. Rifle - I just like the area.
4. Charleston - Not the Hood though! Look around carefully and you can find new development on limestone that is 10 times better then the hood! This cliff band is on the mountain and has roughly 35-50 routes on it, all single pitch and "classic" ranging from 5.9 to 5.12d! Plus they are all natural...no drilling. I can't tell you exactly where it is but find a topo and go looking it is worth it! Just don't tell the drill and glue happy moron from Vegas where it is located....no names mentioned but his initials are JB...(Joe Brooks, damn did I type that in...) He has destroyed many routes on Charleston and other local Vegas areas trying to get 14's out of the rock. Outdoor gym anyone? Nuff said! You are not a rock star Joe, knock it off or we will start chopping every one of your routes! A pic in R&I every now and again does not give you the right to comfort a route to suit your taste!
Ok just had to let that go! It just makes me mad! The Hood was at one time a good cave and fun to climb, now it has been changed in to an international outdoor gym where R&I and Climbing mag hangout to get pics of their favorite pocket drillers chasing 15's, of course they won''t tell you that the new routes are created monsters not natural beauties! God forbid sales numbers would slip if they did that!
5. American Fork- The drinking laws suck, but the climbing is good!
6. Jack's Canyon - Winslow....such a fine place to see!
7. The Shelf - Good for beginners
8. Virgin River - Noisey and smelly but fun and hard!
9. Red Rocks - Good for the ole' ego! Fun place, lots of routes!
10. Smith - I like climbing tuft for some sick reason! Go figure...
Have fun and climb hard!
By the way "Best location for sport climing is not in the US, but we have some good stuff...go find it and have fun!"
|
|
|
|
|
sarcat
Mar 29, 2004, 4:20 PM
Post #40 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 1560
|
"The best place it the one right out your back door."
American Fork is 5 minutes away.
|
|
|
|
|
jbeta
Oct 26, 2004, 3:12 PM
Post #41 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2002
Posts: 16
|
I think each of the "top tier" areas has something to offer. If you like endurance routes, the Red is your place. If you want your ego massaged, then Maple is for you. If you want to get your ass kicked on polished routes while hanging with the glitterati of sport climbing, then you should go to Rifle.
I like Rumney, a lot. Here is a place where climbers of all abilities can climb near each other, on the same cliff. Just the other day, I flailed my way up a route while, next to me, a friend of mine worked on Livin Astro. We were all just hanging out for the day; we were all of different abilities; yet we all acted as equals. This attitude is lacking in big name crags out west, and in my opinion makes Rumney the best crag in the country.
|
|
|
|
|
moeman
Oct 26, 2004, 3:54 PM
Post #42 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 1417
|
In reply to: I'll throw a vote in for Penitente Canyon in SoCo. Yeah, the routes are short and nothing is super steep but I love it there. The crowds are small and the rock is solid; you'll be hard pressed to find better huecoed climbing in the Rockies. It's a mini Smith in a quiet setting. Penitente is simply beautiful place with a casual atmosphere and fun climbing.
From the 3 days I spent there this summer, I thought it was a superb area. Fun, technical, and diverse climbing, with some of the best sport-slabs I've ever climbed, and plentiful vertical-slightly overhanging routes as well. Its not your standard thuggish roof sport climbing, but rather tends towards precise technique. This is a great place to improve your footwork. This, plus minimal crowds, camping a five minute walk from the crags, and an excellent, remote setting make for my personal favortie sport area.
My one quibble would be that the moderate (5.10 and under) routes, while superb, are somewhat limited in number. This is not to say that there are none, but you could climb out the moderate options there in less than 2 weeks. This makes Penitente a great place to visit, but it can not match the lifetime-quantity of routes found at other areas (such as Smith).
|
|
|
|
|
athena
Oct 26, 2004, 3:55 PM
Post #43 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2004
Posts: 25
|
I really like Rumney in the fall but Maple Canyon is also really unique and endless. Plus, after a tough day of climbing, you can go skinny dipping in the lake if you're willing to hike a bit!
8^)
|
|
|
|
|
joeschmoe
Oct 26, 2004, 6:01 PM
Post #44 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2003
Posts: 479
|
While not the best it is out my backdoor and has some outstanding routes, the Obed. You can usually find a nice semi-quiet area to play around and there's plenty of steep workable routes.
|
|
|
|
|
therealdeal
Oct 26, 2004, 6:23 PM
Post #45 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2002
Posts: 250
|
Rifle/Red...pretty much tied in my opinion. Both are great in different ways...while Rifle is more interesting, there is just so much more of the Red.
VRG
Owens (below 12c)
Mt Clark
Maple (even though I'm sick of it)
Lander...no one crag has enough climbing to be on the upper echelon, but the entire area just might make it.
I'm sure there are others...
AF and Smith both pretty much suck...but should almost make the list for historical significance.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Oct 26, 2004, 6:28 PM
Post #46 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
In reply to: If you want to get your ass kicked on polished routes while hanging with the glitterati of sport climbing, then you should go to Rifle.
Ain't it the truth. An old partner lives in Glenwood Springs. When I talk to him, if he isn't spraying about his super-proj ("and then you hit the double knee-bar ear hook!"), he's dropping names like a washed up actor ("so this one time, I was chillin' in the Arsenal, and who rolls up but..."). Its sickening sometimes.
My votes:
Wild Iris - Short, steep, powerful
Rifle - longer, steep, powerful
|
|
|
|
|
oasis27alh
Oct 27, 2004, 3:18 PM
Post #47 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 15, 2004
Posts: 65
|
I don't have much experience climbing but even with my biased opinion, I'd say Smith Rock State Park is the best. It seems that central Oregon doesn't get any credit because it's just that, central Oregon, nobody wants to go to Oregon. It seems like you all live south and back east, so you have quite biased opinions too.
|
|
|
|
|
jbak
Oct 29, 2004, 4:33 PM
Post #48 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2003
Posts: 63
|
In reply to: I'll throw a vote in for Penitente Canyon in SoCo. you'll be hard pressed to find better huecoed climbing in the Rockies. .
Well you could just head south and slightly west about 300 miles. I remember doing a route called Pocket Plethora at Penitente. It had a few pockets, but not really very many. I told my partner "If you want to see a REAL plethora, let's go to Datil !".
Several people have mentioned Wild Iris. I love Wyoming, and Iris is pretty and has decent climbing, but no where near "best area" status.
For single-pitch sport climbs, I have to go with the 3 "uhls"...Rifle, Maple, Datil.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Oct 29, 2004, 4:55 PM
Post #49 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*For single-pitch sport climbs, I have to go with the 3 "uhls"...Rifle, Maple, Datil.*
Rifle's only the best if you climb mid 13. Best overall is RRG in Kentucky, the entire Enchanted Tower (Datil) area (which I've been to a couple times and recommend highly) is not as good as one crag (the Motherlode) at the Red, and there are dozens of other great crags at the Red too...Maple is ok but mostly because you can go there in the summer when there are few other options, it doesn't really compare to the Red either...
|
|
|
|
|
ben87
Oct 29, 2004, 4:57 PM
Post #50 of 71
(12587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 26, 2004
Posts: 229
|
In reply to: Plus they are all natural...no drilling.
I don't get it... I guess I know less about sport than I thought I did. I thought all bolts were drilled...
or is all this talk of drilling and glueing about manufacturing holds, not placing bolts......is that more common that I realized when putting up sport....?
what's the deal?
|
|
|
|
|
jbak
Oct 29, 2004, 10:04 PM
Post #51 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2003
Posts: 63
|
In reply to: *For single-pitch sport climbs, I have to go with the 3 "uhls"...Rifle, Maple, Datil.* Rifle's only the best if you climb mid 13. Best overall is RRG in Kentucky, the entire Enchanted Tower (Datil) area (which I've been to a couple times and recommend highly) is not as good as one crag (the Motherlode) at the Red, and there are dozens of other great crags at the Red too...Maple is ok but mostly because you can go there in the summer when there are few other options, it doesn't really compare to the Red either...
Yeah, I've heard the Red is great. One of my partners is always trying to get me to go. But I'm humidity averse so I never go east of I-25...well maybe a few miles... That's why my list is just western stuff.
|
|
|
|
|
rock_junkie
Oct 29, 2004, 11:04 PM
Post #52 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2004
Posts: 172
|
I haven't been to too many places but I can say that Smith is Meca.
|
|
|
|
|
thinman13
Oct 20, 2005, 5:31 AM
Post #53 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 5, 2005
Posts: 11
|
My vote for best sport climbing area goes to Rumney. I like the way the schist kind of bites my fingers and makes them hurt. Friction gets really good at most crags there, particularly when it's cold. And it's a great place to learn to climb steep stuff. There are all kinds of overhanging routes, from juggy ones like Masterpiece (and who retrobolted the start this last year!!??) to the proudest lines at Main Cliff and Orange Crush. And, of course, Wiamea is the wildest and most impressive of all, as it is so smooth and consistently hard. But it's also got variety, too...slabs, a couple of cracks, and several testpiece trad climbs (or at least there were a year ago) in addition to the plethora of three star, well-bolted sport climbs.
Ultimately, It's a place where one can really get obsessed about routes that seem remotely doable. Everyone can find a project at Rumney, no matter their skill level. Mmmm, Rumney!
|
|
|
|
|
shear
Oct 20, 2005, 11:29 AM
Post #54 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 15, 2004
Posts: 350
|
having only climbed at 3 big sport areas: Red, Rumney, Red Rocks...I'll say that Rumney gets my vote because of the upper tier cliffs: Waimea, Id, Bonsai, Jimmy, Vader, Orange Crush and a couple of single routes near the parking lot, ie: flesh for lulu, Romancing the Stone, just to name a few.
its a great place for beginners to learn to lead...lots of easy routes that are well thought out and bolted very safely.
BUT, I'm really looking forward to this Dec/Jan when I go visit my family in SC (live in western Mass now) and get to revisit the Red and the Obed and possibly the New for some extended trips.
and i think im heading to portrero in late January. :)
|
|
|
|
|
pharmboy
Oct 20, 2005, 2:22 PM
Post #55 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2002
Posts: 701
|
Save Queen Creek/Oak Flat... I'm way to inexperienced to voice an educated opinion, but I absolutely loved this area. Such a beautiful, unique place, I hope it's still around for my grand kids to enjoy.
Other than QC my only experience has been Rumney and it sounds like I am lucky to have this in my neck of the woods.
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Oct 20, 2005, 3:20 PM
Post #56 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
Others have noted Maple and then thrown in some derisive comment about inflated grades. Grade miscalculation is true in a lot of areas.
If you're not climbing for grades and just focusing on the diversity of moves, holds, and body positions then Maple wastes all of the other areas. Think about it, most areas like the Red, Red Rocks, or Rifle are made from the same swath of rock that tends to weather in a particular way. This gives each area a unique feel but also a limited set of holds and rock angles. That's why Rifle and the VRG have a very limited set of grades, why Wild Iris will pull your tendons if you aren't good with pockets, why Red Rocks requires good crimping, etc. In contrast, the matrix formation of Maple creates a huge variety of holds and angles. The moves are simply aesthetic. The forest is nice. There is always shade. And you can always find a quiet wall.
Inflated grades shouldn't take away from any of that, just as sandbags at JT don't take away from that experience. Every time I've gone to Maple I've met some international climber that's been camping there for a month because they find the climbing so unique. There's a reason they stay with so much good climbing only an hour or two away to the north (and it's not because the drinking laws in Green Valley are more lenient than in SLC).
|
|
|
|
|
rufusandcompany
Nov 6, 2005, 2:29 AM
Post #57 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 4, 2005
Posts: 2618
|
Rifle and Smith. Two different types of climbing, although both offer super high quality pull time.
The Project Wall and The Arsenal rock(verb), except when routes fall down.
|
|
|
|
|
robman
Nov 8, 2005, 5:46 PM
Post #58 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 58
|
the guy want's sport climbing NOT trad or crack :lol:
|
|
|
|
|
lux39
Nov 12, 2005, 1:57 AM
Post #59 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2005
Posts: 29
|
In reply to: Though it may be hard to put a finger on it, I was wondering what peoples opinions are concerning the best overall SPORT climbing area in the United States (I know it is hard, when you take in all the variables). Take into account crowds, quality and quantity of routes, etc... My personal favorite is Rumney, but I am not all that well traveled. |
|
|
|
|
organic
Nov 12, 2005, 2:26 AM
Post #60 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2003
Posts: 2215
|
Jackson Falls in Southern Illinois was only mentioned once! Like someone else said places like the RRG are great but they tend towards certain climbing types. Jackson Falls though underdeveloped has many super classic routes from 10a-13b. 300+ routes all within walking distance of each other. Everything from slabs, to pocket problems, jug hauls, roofs, crimpy face climbs, anything you name it and Jackson probably has it. If Jackson had more traffic and more route development it could possibly be one of the best in the US.
|
|
|
|
|
punk_rocker333
Nov 12, 2005, 4:25 AM
Post #61 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2004
Posts: 387
|
Massacre Rocks near American Falls, ID. Over 670 routes within walking distance of each other, 600+ are sport. The access is difficult, being the only reason no one has heard of this place. Check it out:
http://www.isu.edu/...imbing/massprint.htm
|
|
|
|
|
curator
Nov 24, 2005, 10:40 PM
Post #62 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 91
|
It's thanksgiving, I've had a few beers. All I had to do was read through this forum to realize that rockclimbing.com is probably not for me. If I continued to read rockclimbing.com forums my head would probably explode. The list of things I just read that made my eyeballs bulge, my ears bleed, and my face turn the color of cranberry sauce is too long to list here. All I can do is say that without a doubt the New River Gorge is by far the best sport climbing in North America. This is not my opinion, it is a well known fact. If you disagree or think otherwise you are wrong. I have to sign out now or my face is going to explode.
|
|
|
|
|
feanor007
Nov 24, 2005, 11:57 PM
Post #63 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 377
|
RRG, no doubt, long season if you know how to deal w/ky summers, laid back atmosphere, fun sport climbing in all grades
|
|
|
|
|
426
Dec 24, 2005, 4:31 PM
Post #64 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2005
Posts: 30
|
My vote goes as well to the RRG.
I've climbed in pretty much every major area, sport and trad. Weather's a bit better at Owens, Smith is cool but pretty much pebbly/pockets. I've done most of the sport climbs up to 12 in J-Tree as well (not very good)...
RRG dominates, you can climb in full on rain on 5.10s (yeah, they are that steep)...add in Obed 2 hours away and HP40, LRC and Rocktown within 4 hours...you get the picture...
|
|
|
|
|
snodawg
Dec 24, 2005, 6:27 PM
Post #65 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2005
Posts: 35
|
Now lets remember he is looking for the all around experience. For all around experience (climbing, people, food/drink, and weather) my vote has to go out to El Potrero Chico. Cheap, warm, and fun as hell. I am suprised that it hasen't gotten more votes.
|
|
|
|
|
tucsonalex
Dec 24, 2005, 6:35 PM
Post #66 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 11, 2002
Posts: 1689
|
In reply to: Now lets remember he is looking for the all around experience. For all around experience (climbing, people, food/drink, and weather) my vote has to go out to El Potrero Chico. Cheap, warm, and fun as hell. I am suprised that it hasen't gotten more votes.
Maybe because El Potrero is in MEXICO?
|
|
|
|
|
snodawg
Dec 25, 2005, 6:07 AM
Post #67 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2005
Posts: 35
|
Sorry, after reading so many pages of stuff I forgot the United States part....
I would still rather climb in Mexico..
peace
|
|
|
|
|
bryanboonern
Dec 25, 2005, 6:29 AM
Post #68 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 49
|
I live about 2 1/2 hrs from the Red and love it. I have been to Red Rocks twice and really enjoyed it, but I still think the Red tops it. Yes it has a lot of really fun steep sport, but don't forget about the technical climbs as well.
|
|
|
|
|
letolives
Dec 25, 2005, 6:41 AM
Post #69 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2004
Posts: 95
|
I agree, Red Rocks is pretty awesome but you could say that the entire St Goerge/Las Vegas periphery has to have the formost sport climbing in the US. We're talking thousands upon thousands of routes and variating rock type, grades, and adventure. Screw Smith Rock. LV and St. Goerge is the here and now and future of sport climbing in this country.
|
|
|
|
|
mofomojo
Dec 25, 2005, 7:03 AM
Post #70 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 28, 2005
Posts: 28
|
I would agree that I love Owens, only having been there once though....I live at smith as it is the closest destination to my college. Although sharp, sustained, and very redundant climbing, you can't argue with the number of routes there are at Smith. Recently traveling to redrocks I love the quality and softness of the rock there and the style of the climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
tonloc
Dec 25, 2005, 7:43 PM
Post #71 of 71
(12102 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 249
|
i think it can be narrowed down to these top 14 places...rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney, and rumney...but above all is rumney...and my backyard...some sickysicky shiznat back there...like 8 feet of overhanging plywood with some nasty offwiths...sick edges...multipitch bolted lines...pretty nice...makes el cap look like a cow's anus...at best...ps...im really frickiin strong...i put the worlds first 5.16d back there...goes as a 13c in the european ratings...on the new zealand ratings its like a 4 million...and my testpiece boulder problem is a v194...sharma tried it and cried a lot...i kicked him in the face and then sent it with approach shoes on...
|
|
|
|
|
|
