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jbak
Oct 29, 2004, 10:04 PM
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In reply to: *For single-pitch sport climbs, I have to go with the 3 "uhls"...Rifle, Maple, Datil.* Rifle's only the best if you climb mid 13. Best overall is RRG in Kentucky, the entire Enchanted Tower (Datil) area (which I've been to a couple times and recommend highly) is not as good as one crag (the Motherlode) at the Red, and there are dozens of other great crags at the Red too...Maple is ok but mostly because you can go there in the summer when there are few other options, it doesn't really compare to the Red either...
Yeah, I've heard the Red is great. One of my partners is always trying to get me to go. But I'm humidity averse so I never go east of I-25...well maybe a few miles... That's why my list is just western stuff.
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rock_junkie
Oct 29, 2004, 11:04 PM
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I haven't been to too many places but I can say that Smith is Meca.
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thinman13
Oct 20, 2005, 5:31 AM
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My vote for best sport climbing area goes to Rumney. I like the way the schist kind of bites my fingers and makes them hurt. Friction gets really good at most crags there, particularly when it's cold. And it's a great place to learn to climb steep stuff. There are all kinds of overhanging routes, from juggy ones like Masterpiece (and who retrobolted the start this last year!!??) to the proudest lines at Main Cliff and Orange Crush. And, of course, Wiamea is the wildest and most impressive of all, as it is so smooth and consistently hard. But it's also got variety, too...slabs, a couple of cracks, and several testpiece trad climbs (or at least there were a year ago) in addition to the plethora of three star, well-bolted sport climbs.
Ultimately, It's a place where one can really get obsessed about routes that seem remotely doable. Everyone can find a project at Rumney, no matter their skill level. Mmmm, Rumney!
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shear
Oct 20, 2005, 11:29 AM
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having only climbed at 3 big sport areas: Red, Rumney, Red Rocks...I'll say that Rumney gets my vote because of the upper tier cliffs: Waimea, Id, Bonsai, Jimmy, Vader, Orange Crush and a couple of single routes near the parking lot, ie: flesh for lulu, Romancing the Stone, just to name a few.
its a great place for beginners to learn to lead...lots of easy routes that are well thought out and bolted very safely.
BUT, I'm really looking forward to this Dec/Jan when I go visit my family in SC (live in western Mass now) and get to revisit the Red and the Obed and possibly the New for some extended trips.
and i think im heading to portrero in late January. :)
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pharmboy
Oct 20, 2005, 2:22 PM
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Save Queen Creek/Oak Flat... I'm way to inexperienced to voice an educated opinion, but I absolutely loved this area. Such a beautiful, unique place, I hope it's still around for my grand kids to enjoy.
Other than QC my only experience has been Rumney and it sounds like I am lucky to have this in my neck of the woods.
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sidepull
Oct 20, 2005, 3:20 PM
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Others have noted Maple and then thrown in some derisive comment about inflated grades. Grade miscalculation is true in a lot of areas.
If you're not climbing for grades and just focusing on the diversity of moves, holds, and body positions then Maple wastes all of the other areas. Think about it, most areas like the Red, Red Rocks, or Rifle are made from the same swath of rock that tends to weather in a particular way. This gives each area a unique feel but also a limited set of holds and rock angles. That's why Rifle and the VRG have a very limited set of grades, why Wild Iris will pull your tendons if you aren't good with pockets, why Red Rocks requires good crimping, etc. In contrast, the matrix formation of Maple creates a huge variety of holds and angles. The moves are simply aesthetic. The forest is nice. There is always shade. And you can always find a quiet wall.
Inflated grades shouldn't take away from any of that, just as sandbags at JT don't take away from that experience. Every time I've gone to Maple I've met some international climber that's been camping there for a month because they find the climbing so unique. There's a reason they stay with so much good climbing only an hour or two away to the north (and it's not because the drinking laws in Green Valley are more lenient than in SLC).
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rufusandcompany
Nov 6, 2005, 2:29 AM
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Rifle and Smith. Two different types of climbing, although both offer super high quality pull time.
The Project Wall and The Arsenal rock(verb), except when routes fall down.
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robman
Nov 8, 2005, 5:46 PM
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the guy want's sport climbing NOT trad or crack :lol:
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lux39
Nov 12, 2005, 1:57 AM
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In reply to: Though it may be hard to put a finger on it, I was wondering what peoples opinions are concerning the best overall SPORT climbing area in the United States (I know it is hard, when you take in all the variables). Take into account crowds, quality and quantity of routes, etc... My personal favorite is Rumney, but I am not all that well traveled. |
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organic
Nov 12, 2005, 2:26 AM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2003
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Jackson Falls in Southern Illinois was only mentioned once! Like someone else said places like the RRG are great but they tend towards certain climbing types. Jackson Falls though underdeveloped has many super classic routes from 10a-13b. 300+ routes all within walking distance of each other. Everything from slabs, to pocket problems, jug hauls, roofs, crimpy face climbs, anything you name it and Jackson probably has it. If Jackson had more traffic and more route development it could possibly be one of the best in the US.
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punk_rocker333
Nov 12, 2005, 4:25 AM
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Massacre Rocks near American Falls, ID. Over 670 routes within walking distance of each other, 600+ are sport. The access is difficult, being the only reason no one has heard of this place. Check it out:
http://www.isu.edu/...imbing/massprint.htm
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curator
Nov 24, 2005, 10:40 PM
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 91
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It's thanksgiving, I've had a few beers. All I had to do was read through this forum to realize that rockclimbing.com is probably not for me. If I continued to read rockclimbing.com forums my head would probably explode. The list of things I just read that made my eyeballs bulge, my ears bleed, and my face turn the color of cranberry sauce is too long to list here. All I can do is say that without a doubt the New River Gorge is by far the best sport climbing in North America. This is not my opinion, it is a well known fact. If you disagree or think otherwise you are wrong. I have to sign out now or my face is going to explode.
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feanor007
Nov 24, 2005, 11:57 PM
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Registered: Sep 7, 2004
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RRG, no doubt, long season if you know how to deal w/ky summers, laid back atmosphere, fun sport climbing in all grades
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426
Dec 24, 2005, 4:31 PM
Post #64 of 71
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My vote goes as well to the RRG.
I've climbed in pretty much every major area, sport and trad. Weather's a bit better at Owens, Smith is cool but pretty much pebbly/pockets. I've done most of the sport climbs up to 12 in J-Tree as well (not very good)...
RRG dominates, you can climb in full on rain on 5.10s (yeah, they are that steep)...add in Obed 2 hours away and HP40, LRC and Rocktown within 4 hours...you get the picture...
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snodawg
Dec 24, 2005, 6:27 PM
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Now lets remember he is looking for the all around experience. For all around experience (climbing, people, food/drink, and weather) my vote has to go out to El Potrero Chico. Cheap, warm, and fun as hell. I am suprised that it hasen't gotten more votes.
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tucsonalex
Dec 24, 2005, 6:35 PM
Post #66 of 71
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In reply to: Now lets remember he is looking for the all around experience. For all around experience (climbing, people, food/drink, and weather) my vote has to go out to El Potrero Chico. Cheap, warm, and fun as hell. I am suprised that it hasen't gotten more votes.
Maybe because El Potrero is in MEXICO?
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snodawg
Dec 25, 2005, 6:07 AM
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Sorry, after reading so many pages of stuff I forgot the United States part....
I would still rather climb in Mexico..
peace
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bryanboonern
Dec 25, 2005, 6:29 AM
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I live about 2 1/2 hrs from the Red and love it. I have been to Red Rocks twice and really enjoyed it, but I still think the Red tops it. Yes it has a lot of really fun steep sport, but don't forget about the technical climbs as well.
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letolives
Dec 25, 2005, 6:41 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2004
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I agree, Red Rocks is pretty awesome but you could say that the entire St Goerge/Las Vegas periphery has to have the formost sport climbing in the US. We're talking thousands upon thousands of routes and variating rock type, grades, and adventure. Screw Smith Rock. LV and St. Goerge is the here and now and future of sport climbing in this country.
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mofomojo
Dec 25, 2005, 7:03 AM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2005
Posts: 28
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I would agree that I love Owens, only having been there once though....I live at smith as it is the closest destination to my college. Although sharp, sustained, and very redundant climbing, you can't argue with the number of routes there are at Smith. Recently traveling to redrocks I love the quality and softness of the rock there and the style of the climbing.
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tonloc
Dec 25, 2005, 7:43 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 249
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i think it can be narrowed down to these top 14 places...rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney,rumney, and rumney...but above all is rumney...and my backyard...some sickysicky shiznat back there...like 8 feet of overhanging plywood with some nasty offwiths...sick edges...multipitch bolted lines...pretty nice...makes el cap look like a cow's anus...at best...ps...im really frickiin strong...i put the worlds first 5.16d back there...goes as a 13c in the european ratings...on the new zealand ratings its like a 4 million...and my testpiece boulder problem is a v194...sharma tried it and cried a lot...i kicked him in the face and then sent it with approach shoes on...
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